On February 15, 2016 at 8:00pm, a group of 30 men and women met in the taproom of Former Future Brewing Company to learn about spontaneous and wild ales. The public event was coordinated by Black Project Spontaneous and Wild Ales and the Fermentologists, a local fermentation science club, as an opportunity for people to learn the history, theory, and science of spontaneous and wild ales.
James Howat, the owner and head brewer of Black Project, presented his experience and knowledge on the subject of fermentation science and answered questions from the group. The presentation covered the definition of spontaneous and wild ales, the history of Lambic beers, the origins of each kind of fermentation, myths and misconceptions, and the process that Black Project uses to create their award winning beers. People that attended the event included homebrewers, professional brewers, and sour beer enthusiasts.
“Black Project focuses on spontaneous fermentation - a process kept alive solely by the Belgian Lambic producers over the last two hundred years” said James. “In this process, wort is allowed to cool overnight while exposed to the air. Once cool, the wort is placed in closed vessels (usually barrels) and allowed to ferment using only the microbes naturally collected from the air while cooling. Spontaneous inoculation and fermentation has seen a slight resurgence in recent years in the United States, but very few breweries are still willing to attempt it. Many producers in the U.S. are trying to emulate the Belgian beers and processes very closely. At Black Project, however, we are using what we have learned from the Belgians as a jumping off point for practical research and development. We respect the tradition and yet want to learn more about the technical details and variables in the process in order to make a product that is unique to our company.”
On February 26 2016, the Fermentologists will meet back at the brewery to brew a collaboration beer that will be spontaneously fermented. The beer will be brewed on the 4BBL system and then pumped up to the rooftop. Since the beer is still hot, they will leave the beer on the roof overnight to naturally inoculate, allowing it to collect microorganisms in the air. When they return the next morning, the group will pump the cooled beer back down from the roof to give out to members of the club. Members of the Fermentologists will take the beer home and add their own special ingredients, to enhance characteristics of the beer, and then sample the beers at a later date.
On March 21 2016, Black Project will hold the final Fermentologists event, open to the public, where James will discuss how to build a Coolship (Koelschip) on the homebrew level (5-10 gallons). This event will focus on the science and math needed to accurately calculate the required volume needed to create a proper spontaneous fermented beer. Attendees will also have the opportunity to ask questions and tour the brewery.
When asked what James hopes to accomplish working with the club, he said: "The experimental nature of homebrewing, and specifically the scientific focus of the Fermentologists is something that I feel aligns with what we’re doing at Black Project. I expect that through the process of teaching them, I will also end up learning quite a bit from them.”
All of these events focus on spontaneous ales, or spontaneous fermentation, which is best defined as “growing naturally without cultivation”. These beers are produced from environmental elements, instead of being created and then prepackaged by a yeast laboratory. This distinction defines a spontaneous ale because each beer will have different microorganisms that are captured from the air. Each type of organism can add a funky, sour, or fruity flavor depending on the percentage in the beer. Since the beer is created by what is in the air, each beer cannot be replicated and is completely unique. This makes each bottle release rare and highly sought after.
Scott Davidson, the President of the Fermentologists, said “It’s important for us to keep pushing our club into other areas that focus on the science behind fermentation. Working with Black Project has expanded our knowledge about yeast fermentation and the complexity of microorganism that are naturally found in the air. We are very fortunate to have access to a brewery like theirs and are very grateful for their continued support.”
When asked why James enjoys brewing spontaneous ales, he said: "I think they are interesting for a number of reasons. The first is that the whole process and idea of them runs directly opposite so many "rules" of conventional ale and lager brewing. We are purposefully allowing the wort to become exposed to the resident environmental microflora. The resulting fermentation takes place by a true ecosystem of organisms instead of a pure culture (or mixture of pure cultures). This fermentation style creates a beer that is complex, unique, inherently linked to our location and also not reproducible."
People that are interested learning more about spontaneous ales are encouraged to attend the March 21 event at Former Future Brewing Company at 8:00pm. More details are available on Facebook.
About Black Project Spontaneous and Wild Ales
Black Project Spontaneous and Wild Ales is a side venture that focuses on making spontaneous ales or wild ales in small batches and fermented in oak. They strive to make beers that are both extremely complex and yet drinkable. They embrace, study, and live by the uncertainty of spontaneous fermentation. Every beer will be different and there will be no set “seasonal” or release dates – beers will be released only once nature has determined that they are ready. The name ‘Black Project’ refers to the scrappy and secret origins of the side project at Former Future as a comparison to top-secret government/military development programs; i.e.: SR-71 Blackbird, F-117 Stealth Fighter, etc.
About the Fermentologists
Fermentologists are a group of men and women that focus on the art and science of fermented foods and beverages. The club was founded in September 2013 by Winthrop Dada and Scott Davidson with three guiding tiers: education, community, and competition. In that time, the club has grown to almost 40 members due to their “back to basics” approach. The club focuses on educational events, brewing together, and monthly tours of commercial facilities. The Fermentologists take pride in their diversity, range of experience, and are always accepting new members.
