hey are you a conclave fan ?? don't understand all the stuff the cardinals are wearing ?? want to write about them celebrating mass but don't know what they wear ?? want to know more about snazzy catholic fashion ?? worry no longer !!
procrastinating hard on writing my own fic so i started researching clerical clothing because i love symbolism and fashion, here are the fruits of my labour. i'm not catholic nor was i raised one so sorry for any inaccuracies, at the end of the day this is just to help people write fic. if you see any spelling mistakes though no you didn't.
i tried to include anything that might help or inspire people, including for aus or just playing dress up with old men. hope its of use !!! this took me a really long time please clap
also i cannot be bothered to change it but on the liturgical 2 page, in the part about ferulas i keep mentioning pius xi. its actually pius ix.
more detailed image id under the cut, with plain text if you can't read my handwriting. really really long so watch out
this is kind of hard to format so im just going to do the image id followed by its annotations as a list, i hope thats good
FIRST PAGE
CARDINALS: everyday wear -> main colour is red, symbolising the blood they are willing to shed for christ.
[image id: three cardinals in everyday wear standing next to each other, smiling at the camera. the one in the middle is not wearing a sash, and the one on the left is not wearing an elbow-length cape. they are all holding briefcases. end id]
zuchetto: scarlet watered silk skullcap
cassock: black wool with red silk piping. 33 buttons for the 33 years that christ lived. sometimes called a soutane, or if the pellegrina is attatched, a simar.
this weird second sleeve thing isn't in the movie design.
fascia scarlet watered silk sash with tassels. symbolises celibacy (wide eyed emoji). optional but almost always worn.
pectoral cross: personalised cross suspended from a chain over the chest.
gold ring: gifted by the pope to symbolise the bond with the papacy.
its hard to see, but the inside of the cassock and pellegrina is also red
pellegrina: optional elbow length cape that matches the cassock. these don't typically have buttons, but in the movie they do. they're also slightly longer in the movie.
clerical collar: white plastic, cotton, or linen collar. in the movie design, there is no slot for the collar in the front.
[image id: a half body image of a cardinal, in a white version of the everyday cassock. end id]
in tropical countries cassocks can be white instead.
[image id: a screenshot from the conclave movie, specifically from lawrence's homily. it is cropped only to show his hand, and there is a ring on his middle finger. end id]
lawrence's ring
[image id: a full body shot of a cardinal walking to the right. he is wearing in a long black cloak. end id]
tabarro: black broad-cloth cloak with shoulder cape. technically no longer allowed (?) but i think that's just the red version.
[image id: a half body shot of a cardinal smiling at the camera. he is holding a biretta and wearing a long red cape that is fastened by a red ribbon. end id]
ferraiolo: scarlet watered silk cape fastened by a ribbon. not that common anymore i think? (hence why only tedesco, being more traditional, wears it)
[image id: a screenshot from the conclave movie, specifically the start, when lawrence is walking down a road. it is cropped only to show lawrence's upper body. he is in his everyday wear, and wearing a black cape end id]
longer, buttoned pellegrina. basically a black mozzetta (see choir dress)
[image id: a screenshot of the conclave movie, of bellini in the cafeteria. cropped to only show his upper body. he is wearing a black coat. end id]
[image id: a poster for conclave, with a line up of tremblay, sister agnes, lawrence, and bellini. cropped only to show their upper bodies. end id]
no opening for clerical collar, with the exception of bellini's coat/jacket.
no second sleeve.
[image id: a small doodle of cardinal tedesco wearing his red cloak with coloured lineart. he is holding his vape. end id]
SECOND PAGE
CARDINALS: choir dress
[image id: a fullbody shot of a cardinal in full choir dress. he is holding his hands at his front. end id]
mozzetta: scarlet elbow length cape. made of wool with silk lining. 12 buttons for the 12 apostles.
pectoral cross: personalised cross suspended from a red and gold cord. the cord also has a tassel in the back.
cassock and fascia: the same as everyday dress except that the cassock is red and not black.
rochet: white linen or muslin tunic, usually with a lace trim. designs of the lace vary from person to person. rochets are very different in the movie - with the exception of benitez, all the rochets are the same. they all reach to the mid-calf rather than the mid-thigh or knee. they're very plain, with no lace trim or other designs.
biretta: square, ridged cap worn over the zuchetto. one corner has no ridge, and is always worn on the left. not actually worn in the movie, but you can see it on the way to and in the sistine chapel.
[image id: two images of the cord used to hang a pectoral cross on a grey background. the first shows the full cord, with a hook on one end and a tassel on the other. there are three knots at different points on the cord. the second image is a close up of the tassel. end id]
[pointing in between the two knots closest to the tassel] neck goes in here, fastened by these knob thingys (you can see this when lawrence is getting ready for the "pope who doubts" homily).
[image id: a doodle of cardinal lawrence with coloured line art. he is in his choir dress, stressed and holding a turtle. end id]
[image id: a cardinal and a monsignor walking past an altar in a church. the cardinal is in choir dress, and is wearing a red cape with a very long train. the monsignor is wearing a purple cassock and holding the train of the cardinal's cloak above the ground. they are both facing away from the camera. end id]
cappa magna: long as fuck red watered silk cape with a 7 metre long train. hood is lined with ermine fur in the winter. rarely worn in modern times, and only in processions. like the galero, generally only the traditionalists care for it.
[image id: full body shot of two cardinals looking at booklets. they are both in choir dress. one of their rochets is more lacy, and the other more plain. end id]
more examples of rochets, including one that looks similar to benitez'
[image id: a half body shot of a cardinal in choir dress. he is also wearing a long red cape and wide brimmed red hat. he is holding his hands at his front. end id]
galero: scarlet wide brimmed hat with 15 tassels attached at the sides. used to be given by the pope to every newly created cardinal, but is no only made on request. the only example i can find of a modern day cardinal wearing a galero is cardinal burke, who is a mega traditionalist/conservative freak. a galero is still featured on the cardinal coat of arms however.
[image id: cardinal tagle's coat of arms. in the centre is a shield, with a long stemmed double barred gold cross behind it. above the shield is a red galero, with 15 tassels attached on each side. they are arranged in a triangle shape on either side of the shield. at the bottom is white scroll with the motto "dominus est" in black text. end id]
shield and motto varies, but always has a galero
[image id: a behind the scenes photo from conclave. john lithgow, carlos diehz, robert harris, lucian msamati, and ralph fiennes are standing together in the set for the sistine chapel, smiling at the camera. the actors are all in choir dress. end id]
much longer, more simplistic rochet with a big as fuck hem. it's also slightly off white?
like in the book, benitez' rochet is too long, reaching to the bottom of his cassock. it also has a more "realistic" trim design. unlike the rest of the cardinals it seems to be pure white (hello symbolism).
benitez doesn't have a cord
THIRD PAGE
POPE -> main colour is white to symbolise purity
unlike the rest of the catholic clergy, the pope's dress isn't strictly regulated. what each pope wears varies and usually reflects their own views - e.g. pope benedict xvi wore a lot of clothes that had fallen out of use in the papacy, while pope francis refused to wear a lot of the more ornate clothing (basically, you can do what you want).
[image id: full body shot of pope francis walking towards the camera. a monsignor stands behind him. end id]
base everyday wear is the same as cardinals a bishops, but all white. always a simar.
[image id: full body shot of pope benedict xvi. he is speaking into a microphone, reading off a piece of paper. end id]
pope's loafers are traditionally red to represent the blood of saints, but both francis and leo instead have black shoes.
fascia has gold tassels, and is traditionally embroidered with the papal coat of arms. francis and leo have plain fascias
[image id: pope benedict xvi greeting people in saint peter's square. cropped to show only his upper body. he is wearing a red straw hat that has gold detailing. end id]
capello romano, red straw hat with a strip of red silk around the crown, embroidered with gold. also called a saturno.
[image id: a doodle of pope innocent xiv in his white cassock, with colour line art. he is smiling and making a peace sign. end id]
yay !
[image id: half body shot of pope paul vi, who has two fingers raised. he is wearing a red cloak that has gold edges. end id]
red papal tabarro, not used since benedict xvi.
[image id: four images of the rings worn by the pope. the first is of benedict xvi's, gold with an engraving of saint peter. the ring is on his ring finger as he hold a piece of paper. the second image is of pope francis', silver with an engraving of a cross. it is on his ring finger as he holds his pectoral cross. the final two images are two different angles of pope leo xiv's ring, which is gold. one shows that the inside has an engraving of leo xiv's coat of arms. the other shows that the inside also has his name engraved, and the outside has an engraving of st peter. end id]
ring of the fisherman/piscatory ring customised to each pope. usually gold (francis' is gold plated silver), with an engraving of saint peter. the fisherman part is a reference to mathew 4:19 and mark 1:17, where jesus tells saint peter and the apostle andrew that he will make them "fishers of men". presented to the pope during his inauguration (there's only been 5 inaugurations - i can't find who presented the ring for john paul i & ii, but both benedict xvi and francis had it presented by the dean of the college of cardinals (i.e. lawrence). leo xiv of course had cardinal tagle, who isn't dean - the rules for papal inaugurations are quite vague so each individual pope does whatever. in the days of papal coronations the ring would be presented by the camerlengo (i.e. tremblay)
[image id: half body shot of pope john paul ii greeting someone off screen. he is wearing full papal choir dress, including a stole. end id]
[image id: a screenshot from pope leo xiv's first appearance as pope. he is wearing full papal choir dress and waving. a monsignor and bishop stand either side of him. end id]
in choir dress, pope wears a rochet and red mozzetta over his everyday wear, as well as a stole sometimes. i don't think francis ever wore ful choir dress, but he did sometimes wear just a stole.
mozzetta is satin, not wool
gold cord
stole of the four evangelists, much more heavily embroidered than a typical stole.
[image id: half body shot of pope benedict xvi in choir dress. he is not wearing a stole and his mozzetta is lined with white fur. he is holding his hands at his front. end id]
pope benedict revived the winter mozzetta - made of velvet and lined with ermine fur
[image id: half body shot of pope benedict xvi waving. he is wearing a bright red cape and a red cap with white fur lining. end id]
matches with the camauro, a winter cap of the same materials briefly brought back by pope benedict.
[image id: half body shot of pope benedict xvi walking to the left. he is wearing choir dress but no stole. his mozzetta is white and lined with white fur. end id]
paschal mozzetta, used during easter.
FOURTH PAGE
LITURGICAL VESTMENTS
you can see lawrence don the following before his "pope who doubts" homily. each item has an attached prayer that should be recited while putting it on. worn over the cassock and fascia. before they even start dressing, the priest/bishop/etc washes their hands. [grey text] give virtue to my hands, o lord, that in being cleansed from all stain i might serve you with purity of mind and body [end grey text]
only writing the translations of the prayers here, but they would be recited in latin
[image id: a drawing of a priest in a black cassock. a white cloth is draped around his shoulders, and he is tying a string that is attached to it around his waist. the cloth and strings is pictured again next to him. end id]
[image id: someone wearing a black cassock, with a white cloth over their shoulders, fastened at the waist. the image is cut off at the person's neck and hips. end id]
amice: rectangular cloth draped over the shoulders and secured at the waist. no longer mandatory. first draped over the head when dressing. [grey text] place upon me, o lord, the helmet of salvation, that i may overcome the assaults of the devil.
[image id: a full body shot of a priest in a full length, long sleeved white tunic. he is holding an open book, and there is a mirror behind him, where you can see his full reflection. end id]
[image id: a screenshot from conclave, specifically when lawrence is getting ready for mass. it has been cropped to show only lawrence. he is wearing a white, long sleeved tunic and is looking down. end id]
alb: long white linen garment that covers the cassock. [grey text] make me white, o lord, and cleanse my heart, that being made white in the blood of the lamb i may deserve an eternal reward. [end grey text]
[image id: doodle of lawrence in full vestments, with coloured line art. he hold his hands at his front and looks sad and pathetic. end id]
he was forced to eat cement when he was 75
[image id: an image of a person's waist. they are wearing a white tunic, secured by a white cord. end id]
girdle/cincture: wool cord worn around the waist. [grey text] gird me, o lord, with the cincture of purity, and quench in my heart the fire of concupiscence, that the virtue of continence and chastity may abide in me. [end grey text]
[image id: a drawing of a priest wearing a long sleeved white tunic. he is placing a cloth decorated with a cross on his left arm. the cloth is show again next to him, where is can be seen that it has two cords attached to it. end id]
[image id: a long silk cloth that is folded over. the inside is gold and the outside is white, decorated with gold crosses. the ends flare out and has gold tassels. there is a gold cord attached to the middle. end id]
maniple: silk cloth worn on the left arm, fastened with a cord. symbolises the devotion & toils of priest. not always use anymore. [grey text] may i deserve, o lord, to bear the maniple of weeping and sorrow in order that i may joyfully reap the reward of my labours [end grey text]
[image id: a mannequin with a long sleeved white tunic. a long purple silk scarf with gold embroidery is draped around the neck. a matching purple cloth is draped over the left arm, which has been pinned to the chest. end id]
stole: silk band worn around the neck, symbolising priestly authority. [grey text] restore to me, o lord, the robe of immortality, which was lost in the transgression of our first parents, and, inasmuch as i approach your sacred mysteries in an unworthy manner, nevertheless, may i be deserving of eternal blessedness. [end grey text] the pectoral cross can be worn under or above the stole.
[image id: a mannequin wearing a purple chasuble with heavy gold embroidery. the mannequin has been positioned to hold a black biretta at the chest. the image has been annotated as "gothic". end id]
[image id: two images. one is a half body shot of a priest wearing a green chasuble and walking to the left. the chasuble is not as ample as usual, and more closely resembles a tunic. the second image is a similarly cut chasuble laid out on a grey background. it is gold and has heavy floral embroidery. the images have been annotated as "roman". end id]
chasuble: covers all other vestments. can't find what its made of but let's be real it's probably silk or brocade. worn during mass. roman style is considered more traditionalist, and is a lot less common. [grey text] o lord, who has said, "my yoke is sweet and my burden light," grant that i may carry it as to merit thy grace. [end grey text]
[image id: two priests at the front of a parade in a street. they both have heavily embroidered gold capes draped over them, and are holding their hands at their front. end id]
cope: silk/brocade heavily embroidered cape worn in liturgical functions outside off mass, such as baptism or matrimony. i don't think it has a prayer?
[the rest of the page is a section with a gold background labelled "bishops only"]
[image id: a plain white mitre on a table, next to a red zuchetto and fascia. the tails have red tassels. annotated as "simplex". end id]
[image id: a high angle picture of a mannequin head wearing a plain gold mitre. the inside of the centre is red. end id]
[image id: a folded white mitre propped up on a table. heavily embroidered with gold thread. end id]
mitre: white or gold silk folding hat with 2 tails at the back. has 3 styles:
simplex - funerals, mass, lent, good friday.
auriphrygiata - celebration of sacraments (baptism, matrimony, ordination, etc).
pretiosa - principal mass, feast days.
[image id: half body shot of three bishops outside a church. they are all wearing full vestments, but with a cope instead of a chasuble. they all have mitres and are holding croziers in their left hands. end id]
crozier: staff stylised like a shepard's crook, symbolising a bishop's role as a shepard.
[image id: a cardinal in a red chasuble walking toward the camera. there is a wool band around his neck. he is looking down and his left hand is at his chest. end id]
pallium: wool band worn around the neck. has sick black crosses. symbolises the lamb carried on christ's shoulders. often has gold pins in 3 of the pins to symbolise christ's crucifiction. given to metropolitan archbishops by the pope (archbishops that oversee multiple dioceses, i.e. tedesco & sabbadin, but not lawrence) can only be worn inside the archbishop's diocese, with the exception of the pope.
FIFTH PAGE
LITURGICAL VESTMENTS ... 2!!
[image id: a screenshot from pope leo xiv's inauguration, specifcally when he receives the fisherman's ring. the image has been cropped to only show pope leo. he is wearing a white chasuble and a pallium. end id]
[image id: pope benedict xvi sitting on a throne. he is wearing full vestments, as well as a circular shawl, and a pallium with red crosses. end id]
benedict xvi briefly introduced a papal pallium with red crosses, but francis eventually switched back to a black one, with leo xiv doing the same.
benedict xvi also reintroduced the papal fanon, a gold striped circular shawl, though it hasn't been used since then.
[image id: a full body shot of pope benedict xvi walking in a precession. he in full vestments and waving. in his left hand he hold a gold staff with a cross on top. the staff has been annotated as "pius xi". end id]
[image id: a head shot of pope francis in church. he is in full vestments and adjusting his glasses. in his left hand he holds a gold staff with a cross on top. the staff has been annotated as "benedict xvi". end id]
[image id: three head shots of different popes in full vestments holding the same staff, annotated as "paul vi". the staff is silver and has a statue of jesus on the cross on top. the first is of pope paul vi. it is black and white, and has been cut off to not show his face. the second is of pope john paul ii turned to the left, waving. the third is of pope francis, looking tired. end id]
instead of a crozier, the pope uses a ferula, a staff with a cross on top. there have been a lot of different designs for the ferula, with the most recently used being the ferulas of pius xi, paul vi, and benedict xvi.
[image id: pope francis with a mosignor and two deacons walking to the right in a procession. pope francis and the priests are in full vestments. their chasuble and tunics are green and plain. end id]
[image id: a line up of a priest, a deacon, a cardinal, and another priest. they are all smiling off to the right. the priests and cardinal wear a chasuble, and the deacon a tunic, all of which are slightly different shades of purple with gold embroidery. end id]
[image id: three bishops at church. they are all in a line looking to the right. they all wear plain, pale yellow chasubles. end id]
[image id: a priest and a bishop walk towards an altar in an empty church. they are both wearing red chasubles and holding paper palm leaves. the priest holds an ipad that has been annotated as "ipad ??" in grey text. there is a person filming them on a tripod behind them. end id]
[image id: a half body shot from behind pope francis in a procession, with a deacon in front of him. they are both in full vestments, and their chasuble and tunic are a pale pink. end id]
the colours of the maniple, stole, and chasuble varies depending on the event. only the main events are listed below because theres a lot <3
green - ordinary time (i.e. nothing else going on). [grey text] hope, growth, life. [end grey text]
violet - advent, lent, all souls day, requiem mass (funerals). [grey text] humility, penance, preparation. [end grey text]
white/gold - christmas, easter, baptism, matrimony, ordination (the pope isn't technically ordained but it's also used here). [grey text] joy, glory, innocence, purity. [end grey text]
red - palm sunday, good friday, pentecost, funerals of popes. [grey text] sacrifice, charity, the blood of christ [end grey text]
rose - gaudete sunday & laetare sunday (in advent & lent respectively - can choose either rose or violet). [grey text] anticipation, joy, repentance. [end grey text]
SIXTH PAGE
BISHOPS, ARCHBISHOPS, & MONSIGNORI
[image id: two half body shots of bishops holding their hands at their fronts. the first one is wearing choir dress and against a brown background. the second is wearing his everyday wear and in a church. end id]
bishops and archbishops wear basically the same as cardinals, except with purple instead of red (symbolising authority i think? not as well defined as cardinal red) plus some other details.
this includes accessories like the ferraiolo. galero specifically is green with two sets of 6 tassels for bishops and 10 for archbishops.
green and gold cord
piping on the cassock, mozzetta, etc is more red than the rest of the purples
[image id: a grey mannequin head on a white background. it is wearing a purple biretta with a pom on top. end id]
biretta has a pom
[image id: a full body shot from the conclave movie, when lawrence, mandorff, and o'malley find out about the new cardinal. lawrence is facing the camera and looking at o'malley, both mandorff and o'malley are facing away from the camera and looking at lawrence. they are all wearing their everyday cassocks. end id]
ok so researching for monsignori is driving me up the wall. first of all mons. is not an actual role, it's an address for priests with one of 3 honourary titles (apostolistic protonotary, honourary prelate, chaplain of his holiness). second, mons. o'malley is a bishop in all but title. he dresses as a bishop, and is secretary to the dean, a role typically held by a bishop. idk man ig in the conclave-verse bishops can be monsignori, or maybe a monsignor is higher up in the catholic hierarchy than irl.
monsignor o'malley has the same outfit as archbishop mandorff
[image id: from the conclave movie, o'malley in choir dress. he is holding a clipboard and looking off to the left. end id]
WHY IS HIS ROCHET SLEEVE DIFFERENT ITS THE ONLY ONE LIKE THIS ??? anyways bishop choir dress. i love this picture btw he looks so ouppy
[image id: two full body shots of a monsignor in two different styles of choir dress. both are wearing white tunics over a purple cassock, and the first has an additional sleeveless purple tunic over it. in the first image he is closing the doors to the sistine chapel, and in the second he is outside, holding his hands at his front. end id]
[image id: a full body shot of a monsignor walking to the left. he is wearing an everyday cassock and fascia, but no pectoral cross. he also has a purple cloak, and a black biretta with a purple pom. there is a metal pin on his left breast. end id]
[image id: a half body shot of a monsignor in front of an altar, facing the camera. he is wearing an everyday cassock and fascia, but no pectoral cross or skullcap. there is a metal pin on his left breast. he is holding an open book. there is a "yonhap news" watermark at the bottom. end id]
black biretta
no pectoral cross
no zuchetto
[image id: three simple diagrams of monsignor choir dress. the first two have a purple cassock, and the last is black. they are all wearing a white tunic, and the first has another purple, sleeveless tunic as well. they all have black birettas with poms, the first pom being purple and the last two being black. end id]
choir dress is closer to that of other priests, using a surplice instead of a rochet.
[pointing at tunic] surplice
SEVENTH IMAGE
MISC
[image id: a screenshot of conclave, from the end of the movie when lawrence is looking outside his window. he is wearing a black shirt with a priest collar, and a black sweater vest. the image has been cropped to only show him. end id]
when to wear what:
liturgical vestments -> celebrating/co-celebrating the eucharist.
choir dress -> public liturgical functions that the person is not the celebrant of.
daily dress -> day to day work
informal dress -> can be worn when daily dress would be impractical, in more informal work, or when "off-duty". black or grey clothes, including a shirt that allows the priest's collar to be seen.
[image id: a screenshot from conclave. a half body shot of sabbadin, who is turned to the left. he is in everyday wear, and holding a cigarette. the image has been cropped to show only him. end id]
[image id: six franciscan priests smiling at the camera. they are all wearing simple grey habits and pectoral crosses. end id]
if a priest is a member of an order, they can wear their habit instead of a cassock. sabbadin wears a franciscan habit in everyday wear, but not in choir dress.
[image id: a screenshot of conclave. tedesco sitting in the sistine chapel alone. he is wearing choir dress, and a shirt sleeve can been seen peaking out of both of his arms. he is vaping, the smoke obscuring the bottom half of his face. the image has been cropped to show only him. end id]
as for what they wear under their cassocks, i think it's just a shirt and trousers. you can see the sleeves peaking out in the movie. the only real rule is that the stockings/socks they wear should match their cassock (i.e. black in everyday, red/purple in choir dress, white for the pope). only other thing of not is that the pope typically wears white trousers, though francis wore black. anyways, [homophobic dog "i know what you are" meme]
[image id: several labelled doodles of characters, titled "proper forms of address". the first is of pope innocent xiv, who is calm and smiling. labelled "pope - your holiness". the second is of lawrence, who is sad and looking downwards. labelled "cardinal - your eminance". the third is of archbishop wozniak, who looks stressed or panicked. labelled "archbishop - your grace". the fourth is just text that says "(are there any bishops in conclave ??)". labelled "bishop - your excellency". the fifth is of monsignor o'malley, who is smiling. labelled "monsignor - reverend monsignor". the final is of john ward from faith: the unholy trinity, looking to the left, concerned. labelled "priests - reverend father". end id]
who's winning the sad pathetic priest war, john ward or lawrence.
[image id: a doodle of op, making a peace sign. he is looking to the right and making a ":3" face. end id]
yay that''s it. go forth and make crazy gay fanfic & fanart.
