#e3d v6

[ihasa3dprinter]

So, you guys know the new Tim's spider donuts?I was inspired(or should I say inspidered) and modelled one, names it Harold, and printed :) I love him

HERES A LINKY: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-harold-the-donut-spider-81845

[nickclark]

/lemme upgrade ya/<<

A while back I upgraded my Z axis height by purchasing the Z upgrade kit from printrbot. It was crucial for project; bulbasaur, as the tiles on ://earth were beyond the default Z height of the stock printrbot simple metal. I was aware of the X axis upgrade, but that didn’t do it for me. To my discovery matrix precision makes a X/Y upgrade, the 880R3. 

The Black Anodized Metal Simple 880R3 XY Upgrade is what I went with. 

As I take my PrintinZ Plate off, I reflect on the good times I had printing at 150mm x 150mm in X/Y. With all things its time for an upgrade :D

It begins by removing of the tension lock for the X belt. 

After removing the tension lock, the four screws holding the bed in place are removed.

Removal of the X belt.

After removing the bed and the steel rods I was able to clean around the bearings. To my discover, I noticed the plate holding down the bearings was loose. The cause, years of vibrations from thousands of print hours. Securing this will also tighten my prints in the X axis.

Never go in dry.

Steel rod installation, with old rods for comparison. 

The install of the bed starts with locking in the new belt tension plates.

This leads to the hotbed installation. I went with a MK2, it fits the under cut of the aluminum bed perfectly. I wired the board for 12V. After soldering, I put a layer of kapton tape on both sides of the solder pads to insulate it from the aluminum bed.

Before the adhesion of the the heatbed, the thermistor must be installed. The 880R3 has a nice cut out that will give me the aluminum bed temperature rather then the heatbed temperature. 

Using high heat adhesive, the heatbed is installed on the underside of the aluminum bed.

Reinstallation of the X belt and the 4 bed screws complete the X axis upgrade. Testing still needs to be done, and so does wire management. 

La Croix break ;D

The Y axis upgrade is pretty straight forward. 

Remove the six screws holding down the the Y plate.

Remove Y plate. Remove belt. Remove rods. Add new rods. Add new belt. Tighten belt.

Install Y expansion plate and reinstall the Y plate. 

Pretty straight forward. 

Now the test, does the new heatbed work? What about the printer? Does it continue to work? It turns out, yes... I knew what I was doing, this time... I did though, use to many zip ties during cable management of the X install. I forgot to save one additional zip tie to lock in the Y belt. 

New print size in mm: 200x 200y 250z

With the new custom bed size, comes a custom PrintinZ Plate. Before I could order the plate I wanted to get the exact dimensions of my new print area. I emailed matrix precision the image above asking for the X/Y exact dimensions and I received just that.

The new aluminum plate is much thicker then the stock bed. That being said, the binder clips I have been using for my PrintinZ plate no longer work. It is a simple fix, get larger binder clips. The thicker bed does retains heat very well. I use PLA and will be reaching a max bed temperature of 70C. The decision of 70C over 60C was made because of the material densities between the PCB heater, the aluminum bed and the PrintinZ plate. There isn’t much clearance underneath the print bed for insulation. There is space for piece of double-walled cardboard. This is only a temporary solution until I install a 3mm cork mat. In doing so, this will increase the speed for reaching bed temperature. Overall the goal with the heated bed is to further reduce model curling on large scale and long prints.

This upgrade now enables project; porygon2 beta begins.

[ihasa3dprinter]

WOO I GOT THE PRINTBITE ON THE BED

It's amazing

Articulated butterfly :3

Also laptop works kinda

[ihasa3dprinter]

This is coming together nicely! Petg rocks at overhangs!