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Beginners Guide to Drifting
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So you want to get sideways but don’t really know how, or you think you know how but you’ve never really tried. I’m gonna come out and say this, DO NOT think you can Drift without experience. If you try to drift or just get a little sideways here and there, it could end pretty bad. Now I am not going to say drifting should be done on an enclosed course or on a track; lets face it, not everyone lives near a track or lot where they host drift events. I’m also not saying I support street drifting, but once again with the honesty; who hasn’t kicked it out here and there on the open road? On this page, I will be writing a few tips for the beginner to learn or for those who don’t know if they’re ready to slide or not.
Braking Drift: this is performed by braking before a corner while starting to turn in, vary the brake petal until loss of grip is obtained and then balance the over steer through steering and throttle motions.
Faint/Fade Drift: this is performed by rocking the car towards the opposite direction of a turn and then using the rebound of grip to throw the car into the normal cornering direction. (note: this is heavy rally racing technique used to change vehicle attitudes during cornering)
Shift-Lock: this is performed by letting the revs drop upon downshift into a corner and then releasing the clutch to put stress on the driveline to slow the rear tires inducing over steer. (this is like pulling the E-brake through a turn – note: this is best to be performed in the wet to minimize damage to the driveline etc)
Dirt Drop Drift: this is performed by dropping the rear tires off the road into the dirt to maintain or gain drift angle if losing power. (note: this technique is very useful for low horsepower cars, also good show move to produce a dirt rooster tail).
Jump Drift: in this technique the rear tire on the inside of a turn or apex is bounced over a rumble strip to help lose traction resulting in over steer
Choku Dori: this is done by pulling the E-brake through a strait to start a high angel drift and to hold this angle to set up for the turn ahead. (note: this can only be done at high speed)
Manji: this is a slow swaying faint like drift where the rear end sways back and forth down a strait. novice/intermediate
Power Over: this is performed when entering a corner and using full throttle to produce heavy over steer (tail slide) through a turn. Beginner+
Side Brake Drift: this technique is very basic, pull the E-Brake or (side brake) to induce rear traction loss and balance drift through steering and throttle play. (note this can also be used to correct errors or fine tune drift angles). Beginner+ Great for starters
Clutch Kick: this is performed by depressing the clutch pedal on approach or during a mild drift, then pop the clutch under power to give a sudden jolt through the driveline to upset rear traction. Beginners+
Perfect Beginner Techniques
There are two main drifting techniques. The first is called the clutching technique and is the preferred method. With the clutching technique, you shift the car into second gear as you approach the turns. You then rev the engine between 4,000 and 7,000 rpm, depending on the car. With the engine revved, you turn the car hard into the turn and pop the clutch, causing the rear tires to spin and lose traction.
The second most common and easiest drift technique is the E-brake or side brake depending on where you live. It’s quite simple, take off and wiggle in your seat as you approach your turn. This technique isn’t very effective in a slow turn as Clutch Kicking but at mid speed high 2nd gear mid 3rd or even high speeds for early entry. As you’re coming to your turn, push the clutch in, and use your right hand/ OR LEFT HAND for those of you RHD peeps. Pull/Yank on it, DONT LOOK DOWN AT THE BRAKE OR YOUR HAND, keep your free hand on the wheel and eyes on where you are going. You will feel the back end feel like it’s hovering or sliding out from under you. Now this is where practice comes in, knowing when to release the brake. This depends on the driver, the car, and the turn. Let go when ever you are comfortable with letting go. If you have a low hp/torque car, you might not want to slow down too much. Releasing the brake also depends on the turn. Wide or hair pin, it comes down to the style you want to use. Release early just to have the car lose traction, and power over through the turn, or hold it and clutch kick to maintain the drift. There are many factors, it all comes down to practice.
To keep the car in the drifting motion until the next turn, you must keep your foot on the accelerator and make adjustments with the throttle and steering wheel to prevent spin out. If you’ve managed to keep the car in control, you can then cut the wheel in the other direction and attempt to slide around the next turn in one smooth motion. However, if you went into the turn too slowly, the car may begin to regain traction. This technique is one of those you get better with practice. The only draw back on this style is the massive abuse you put on your clutch. I highly recommend on buying a new clutch before trying to drift. I personally have had many friends who get a car, and go straight to kicking it sideways. That’s cool and all but the car isn’t there daily. If you daily your so called “street or weekend drift car”, invest in a good quality clutch set up. You don’t need a stage 2 or 3 or even a 4 or 6 puck UN-sprung clutch. A simple Stage 1 Clutch will handle the power of the Ka24e and ka24de along with the SR20det and those of you who rock the RB20,rb25, and rb26. Now if you are running a slightly modified engine, then by all means, buy something that will handle more power.
Now that you have read over most of the popular techniques, we will go over car setup. Ignore people who say you need 300+hp to drift. That is straight garbage, yes it does make drifting a bit easier, but POWER ISN’T EVERYTHING. As a beginner in the drifting scene, it’s easier to learn with a low power car. Learn your car, push it to the edge and just get to know your car.
Basic drift car set up: I have already covered the whole clutch part so lets skip that. Coilovers, Although they aren’t needed for a beginner, many people get them anyway just to lower there car to have the Ohhhmaaagaaawwwwd Driftcar f*cksh*t #racecar! You do not need 1,500 Powered by max”PBM” Coilovers, buy yourself some megan coilovers which usually bounce around $500-$700. Or You can buy used coilovers for the budget drifter. I bought Tein HR Full Coilovers for $350 used, If I were to get them new, that’s a womping $1,300+….Ouch
The main reason for coils is to lower the center of gravity on the car. This does not mean, Slammed is Better. Don’t go for the Hellaflush, or Slammed look. If you don’t plan on drifting your ride, and just wanted to slam your car cause all the cool kids are doing it, Sell your car, buy a Honda, and pop your vtec off this site.
You can find EMUSA Coils for the S chassis for 400-450 which are just knock off megan racing coils. Lower your car a bit, the coils help with the weight transfer, and helps with the body roll of the car. If you have stock suspension, go 45MPH and turn, you will feel the car lean to the side, this is no good. It make drifting very difficult.
Welded Differential / LSD/VLSD
Now if you live in Canada or Europe or even Australia, you all get LSD or VLSD differentials,Lucky! If you live in the US, we have been punished by the Drift Gods. We have been sentenced to drive with open differentials or the infamous 1 wheel wonder! When drifting you want both wheels to be spinning, but with a open differential, we only have 1 wheel spinning, the other simply is there to roll. So DON’T try and drift if you don’t have a differential ready for it. It’s dangerous because that 1 wheel will be spinning so fast it will become dangerous. Imagine 1 rear wheel spinning fast, then it gets grip, where do you think that power is going to go? It will throw the car in the other direction which can lead to curbs, trees, or OTHER CARS. So here is what you can do, the most common technique (and my favorite) is weld your differential. I will cover a full tutorial here. WELDING YOUR DIFFERENTIAL TUTORIAL
Direct Fit:
91-93 240sx VLSD
89-90 JDM S13 VLSD
96-98 JDM S13 VLSD
JDM S14 and S15 VLSD (with S13 diff cover swapped on)
R33 Skyline (R34 as well?) VLSD (with S13 diff cover swapped on)
95-98 240sx VLSD (with S13 diff cover swapped on)
1/94+ J30 VLSD (with S13 Diff cover swapped on)
Fit with pre-1/94 J30 axles OR JDM S13 axles OR R32 Skyline axles OR 6 bolt vlsd output flanges OR shaved open diff output flanges:
90-96 NA Z32 VLSD
Pre 1/94 J30 VLSD
91 – 95 JDM S13 VLSD
JDM R32, A31 and others
Z31 Turbo (non SS model) clutch type +4/87: works with open diff output flanges. Use S13 case and cover
R32 and R33 GT-R only, non V-Spec clutch type: uses 31mm 30 spline output shafts. 3 out of 6 bolts line up (sort of) when using skyline output shafts or R230v output shafts (Q45 and turbo Z32)
S15 torsen, 6spd turbo only: use S15 output shafts, late S14 VLSD might work, R230v might work with 3 out of 6 bolts lining up.
R34 torsen, GT-R non V-spec: unknown but I assume its 31mm 30 spline
350Z/G35 torsen: supposedly R205 according to NISMO japan website. Unknown fitment in a 240sx.
