I am on the Virar fast train during the evening rush hour, possibly the most crowded of the locals. I am clutching the strip at the top of the open door with both hands, my only other connection the front half of my feet. Most of my body is hanging substantially outside the speeding train. There is a crush of passengers. I am afraid I may be pushed out by their pressure, but I am reassured. "Don't worry, if they push you out they also pull you in."
Girish once drew for me on a piece of paper a diagram of the dance; the choreography of the commuter trains. The Bombay Central contingent stands in the centre of the compartment from Borivali to Churchgate. The people surrounding them move clockwise around the BC group like this: first are the Jogeshwari batch, then Bandar, then Dadar.
If you are new to the Bombay trains, when you get on and plan to get off at, say, Dadar, you must say "Dadar? Dadar?" and you will be directed to the precise spot you must stand to disembark successfully at your station.
There are no doors, just two enormous openings* on either side of the compartment. So when the station arrives, you must be in position to spring off, well before the train has come to a complete stop, because if you wait till it's stopped, you will be swept back inside by the people rushing in.
The commuters travel in groups. Girish travels with a group of some fifteen people that take the same train from stations farther down the line. When he gets on, they make space on their laps for him and have a potluck breakfast together; each of them bringing some delicacy from home. They pass the hour agreeably, telling jokes, playing cards, or singing.
- Maximum City, Mumbai Lost And Found
(*I think this is the /correct/ way to do transit doors, and that buses should likewise have constant openings so you can jump on and off at will. Your safety is your own damn business; act accordingly.)