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@bearcatnewzealand
We are in greymouth on the west coast! It has been a bit of a battle to get here but it was worth it. From st. Arnaud we rode about 80km to a campsite in the start of the buller gorge. It rained off and on all day but luckily didnt start to pour until we got our tent up. We spent the evening sitting in our tent. We woke up to rain and began our journey to a campsite about 90km away. About 30km into the journey, while we were biking shoulder less windey roads in a gorge it started raining really hard with a direct headwind. We made it 65km and got a hostel in Westport. Pretty miserable biking, but still beautiful. New Zealand is amazing, whether it is raining or sunny it is all beautiful. The next day we woke up to sun! Finally! We rode down the west coast to a small beach town. The ride from Westport to greymouth where we are now is about 100km and supposedly one of the best coastal drives in the world. Between today and yesterday we saw some of the bet scenery. Beach on one side and cliffs and mountains on the other. We got to see the sunset last night and it was nothing short of magic. I've never seen anything like it. Right now we are in greymouth for the night. The wet coat is known for being very very rainy and we have been given the advice to chase the good weather for the epic parts. So we are taking a bus through about 200km of farmland to catch some sun through the haast pass. Apparently sunny days through it are few and far between, but if you can get it you'll never see anything like it. We are excited for everything to come. Yesterday marked 2 months in new Zealand. Time has been flying. We are both a little worn though, dale has a giant beard and I've developed some freckles. We are good though.
You can't see the rain in this photo, but it is absolutely pouring rain. This is the view from our hostel window where we are hiding from the storm. Yesterday we rode from Nelson to St. Arnaud about 100km. We hadn't intended to go that far, but there was literally nothing after 40km and at about 70km we ran out of water. So 2 long climbs and lots of little ones we tiredly arrived in the little alpine village of St. Arnaud. It is right on the Nelson lakes and we camped right in front of the lake in between giant mountains. We woke up at about 3am to thunder and lightning and the rain which continued through the entire day. We could have biked but opted safety wise to just call it a wash and get a hostel. The area is amazingly beautiful, the clouds are low on the mountains and look like cotton that's being pulled off the ground. Tomorrow we bike rain or not. We are hoping to make it to the west coast for the good weather starting Monday. Off topic, one thing I love about new Zealand. Dogs are boarded in kennels. Cats are boarded in catteries. I love that word.
Apparently Peter Jackson was driving the car from chitty chitty bang bang around wellington and decided to open the wings. He was so focused he didn't notice the BMW driving on the other side of the road. BMW hit the wing straight off.
We are in the south island!!! It is already so epic. Including my hand and legs swelling up from sandfly bites. Looks like I am very allergic to them. For those who know me well, I am sure you are not surprised. We took the ferry yesterday and it was ok. The ride was pretty beautiful into pidgin but the ferry kind of sucked. Packed full, kinda meh. Picton is a huge tourist trap surrounded by beautiful mountains and islands. We took a scenic road from there to Pelarus where we camped next we a river. About a 55km ride. Then we rode from there to Nelson today, only about another 50km as my fat hand was bothering me. Nelson is cute, but only special because it is surrounded by amazing beauty. The mountains are bigger and grander then the north island. We learned the hard way by climbing a couple today on our ride. We are going to head down the west coast and depending on weather start with Abel Tasman park. We are both so so so do excited.
South island mountain names
Yuletide peak Mt inaccessable Drunkan sailors Bare knob Peters knob Black knob Brown knob Bald knob Black rat Mt Christmas
We are in Wellington! As already posted, we have gone 1100 miles and have officially cycled the length of the north island plus some. I will finish up the north island blog though before we take off tomorrow on the ferry to the south island.
I left of in New Plymouth I believe where we stayed with the wonderful Peter and Heather. We left there and biked around Mt. Taranaki to a small beach town about 65 KM. The mountain is known for being "tempermental", meaning you can be around it for days and not see it because of cloud cover. It took us 4 days to be able to see and it was at our shoulder for this entire bike ride. Really breathtaking. We stayed at a cheap surf lodge where John took good care of us (spoiled us). He fed us and we shared stories. In the morning he took us on a ride around the town then rode maybe 10km into the ride with us.
We rode to a small town below Hawera the next day, about 70KM. This was a great day, we rode hard and went to the Tawhiti musuem. This is a musuem full of home made human replicas of historical New Zealand. Creepy, interesting and wonderful. We were then riding through Hawera, very grumpy, looking for a place to camp, when we ran into Peter. He pretty much saved us, directing us to a save free place to sleep for the night and treating us to some much needed coffee.
We rode to Whanganui from there, about 80KM. It was a long, long day of riding. It had been described to us as "relatively flat", so when we hit climb after climb, we were not too happy. We finally got into town and were greated warmly by our new friend Dick. He is a good friend of Peter and Heather who oversee's the vintage car musuem and club in Whanganui. We camped in the yard area and cuddled his sweet dog Nikki. We took the next day off to explore and relax. Whanganui is a pretty cute little city with some wonderful parks which we napped in. Dick also works on a restored steamboats engine room and he got us a ride on the boat. It was pretty amazing, watching the sunset on the river and feeling like we went back in time. We shared a private party of Aucklanders and the former mayor of Whanganui.
From Whanganui we rode about 85Km to Foxton. We hated Foxton. At this point we were on the main road to Wellington and the towns were just stop in towns for people travelling. Not much to them. In the morning we headed to the start of the metro rail to Wellington, about 75KM. We got there, excited, and found out that the rail line was replaced by buses...we couldn't take our bikes on. 5 times the price of the rail later we took a coach bus the rest of the way and now we are in Wellington! We love Wellington, but it really just reminds us of home more then any other area.
The north island was more then we ever expected and the south island is due to be even more epic. This trip is really amazing, and totally a time of growth for both of us. My time is almost up at the internet cafe. I will try to post soon with more! I will leave you with this photo of Dick, one of our new favorite people.
1100 miles and 28 days of riding. We are done with the north island!!!!
A lot to post....
Hola! Currently we are in Whanganui in a sort of internet cafe. The computer does not seem to want to let me to post photos. So I will just post what we have been up to! My last update was a while ago and we have seen a ton since then.
I last left off at day 23, when we were still in the Coromandel penninsula. We rode 50KM to Opitere. About 7km off the main road was a beautiful campsite, beach and bird sanctuary. The campsite reminded us both of summer camp, and was full of the biggest cockroaches I have ever seen.
After Opitere we rode to Waihi beach (65KM) where we spent the night at a campsite that had thermal pools. It was here that we met Gill and Geoff, an older Kiwi couple that has biked just about all of the south island. Older New Zealand couples are just about the nicest people in the world. We stayed in Waihi beach for a day where we hiked about 5 KM to a secluded bay where we basically had this beach to ourselves. I wish I could post photos, it was paradise. The Coromandel is where all of Auckland goes for their Christmas/Summer holiday, so we couldn't stay longer as hoards of people were coming to take up accomodation and fill the roads with cards, buses and campervans.
Day 26 was christmas eve and we had a pretty magical one. We rode only about 50 KM inland, but we went through this gorge that had a network of different walks through old mining tunnels and buildings. There was suspension bridges (Indiana Jones style) and you could walk through old mining tunnels that went deep into the mountain. It was all free and open, and nothing like that would be allowed in the US. There was also an amazing bike path we got to take for a bit that went along the old railway tracks. We even got to go through about 1.5km of a dark railroad tunnel. The whole thing was one of the highlights of the north island. That night we spent in a campground in Te Aroha that time forgot.
Christmas we rode 50KM to Hamilton, only to discover that everything was closed and Hamilton was a ghost town. We got a hostel for the night as a christmas treat and ended up partaking in a christmas party with some other travellers. It was a quiet christmas and easy. We spent the next day in Hamilton in hopes of catching a few things open, but ended up just sleeping and relaxing. We did get to see the Rocky Horror Picture Show statue, as it was written in Hamilton.
Day 29 we had planned to ride to the Waitomo Caves, but realized that it was completely booked to go through. New Zealand holiday season is right now, meaning everyone is out of school and work. So we are competing with the Kiwis for activities and the road. We ended up riding 85KM to a town below Waitomo. On the way down we stopped at a parking lot in the middle of no where to eat our lunch where we met Peter and Heather. We talked to them for about 5 minutes before exchanging contacts and they went on their way.
The next day we rode to Moukua(the spelling might be off on that one), about 80KM. Riding from Coromandel to there was a coast to coast ride, taking us from the northeast, to the midwest basically of the island. The terrain changed a lot during this ride, turning rocky and hilly, kind of reminding us of Scottland. Lots and lots of sheep line the hills, its just about as beautiful as it gets. Moukua was the start of getting back to the coast for us and the beaches there all had black sand. It is really fine and can be used to make metal. I have never seen anything like it before. We had trouble finding a place to stay that night and ended up staying with a bunch of campervans next to a golfclub. Again, we met just about the nicest older couple to exist and spent a while chatting with them in their 1950's camper.
Day 31 was the final stretch to reach the city of New Plymouth, about 80 KM. It was a long hilly ride, and we had planned to only do about halfway to New Plymouth but couldn't really find anywhere that was worth stopping for. It also was raining off and on, so we just kept peddling. As we got into town we figured we could be getting a place to stay, but out of no where appears Peter, the man we had met a few days ago on the side of the road. He basically stopped traffic to get us and then brought us home with him. He and his wife Heather took us in (smelly, wet and tired) and treated us like family. We got fed, showered and a lovely place to sleep. Peter entertained us with the many stories of his life, and Heather helped us so much with planning for our trip. We ended up staying with them for 3 days through new years. We got to see all the sights in New Plymouth with their help (they even drove us around for a day showing us) and they spoiled us rotten. We have never met anyone who would treat two strangers so well, it was amazing. The New Plymouth musuem taught us a ton on the region and local history. New Plymouth is at the base of Mt. Taranaki, one of New Zealands many dormant volcanoes. It looks a lot like Mt. Fuji, the Last Samuri was even filmed using it insted of the real Fuji. The mountain has great Maori history, including the Maori story of how it came to rest in the area. Look it up if you get a chance.
New Years eve was rather low key. We got treated to a wonderful lunch with Peter and Heather, shown around the area and then went out to a bar to do the countdown. The weather has been really really rainy so not too many people were out and about. New Years day was our last day with our wonderful hosts and we really just putz around town. Peter gave Dale a haircut (he had tried to cut it himself but ended up with lots of patches) and we enjoyed a really nice going away dinner.
This is getting a bit long, so I will finish up the next time I get to a computer. Currently we are about 3 days outside of Wellington, meaning we have almost finished biking the north island!!!! By the time we finish we will have biked about 1700KM, or a little over 1000 miles. Then we will take the ferry to the South Island and keep on going.
We have a lot to catch up on, but getting to a computer has been hard. Update soon, but we are alive and having a great time. Happy new year!!!!!!
See the post below for more photos, this only lets me post 10 at a time. I figured out how to resize them on this computer, but unfortunately they are almost too small now. They might be grainy, I will get it right one of these days.
Right now we are in Tairua, a really cute beach town on the Coromandel. We FINALLY had a day off from rain that was sunny, so we took a day off here and went to the beach and kayaking. At the beach we saw a couple of topless pregnant women sunbathing, and got smashed up by insane pacific ocean waves. We also did laundry (all of our stuff is smelly as smelly gets at this point) and fixed the hole in the tent where rainwater kept on soaking our sleeping bags in the night. All in all a pretty great day off.
To catch up from the last post though, we took a day off in Whitianga in hopes of catching a nice day. It did not happen, and we ended up with a pretty mellow day off in the rain. The next day was also rainy, so we just rode 15 KM up the rode to Hahei, the middle spot between two of the big attraction around here, cathedral cove and hot water beach. It was cold and rainy while we were there though, so we only went to cathedral cove. It was a really beautiful hike out to just a small cove with a giant cave. It is in a couple of the photos. We also saw the beach where Captain Cook landed in New Zealand.
The next day (day 21 of riding) we rode about 40KM to Tairua, where we are now. We got a hostel for the night to yet again dry off. This is by far the best hostel we have stayed at. Beach Villa Backpackers is basically what you might imagine a 90's surf house to be. Really relaxed, giant, and just easy to be in. We decided on a day off today (day 22), and just had fun. Tomorrow we continue south! That is all for now.
Yesterday!
We are holed up in a hostel for 2 days, kinda a pre Christmas everything is booked treat to ourselves. I'll post about the last few days soon. For now, enjoy this photo of a very old surf hostel that has chickens in the backyard and beach views. They also have a vast VHS collection including Jurassic park 3, candy man and cold mountain.
It appears I left off on Day 12, right before we were heading to Auckland.
Day 13 we ended up spending in Pahia, a beach touristy town I previously mentioned. We took the ferry across the river to Russel, the oldest town in New Zealand. I was pretty excited about history stuff, but it kind of was a bust. Nothing too special or interesting. Day 14 was pouring rain, so we opted to just take a bus to Auckland, as biking into Auckland is a pretty unejoyable experience. We then spend 2 nights there at the biggest, worst backpackers in the world. We went for cheap, and boy did we get it. Mega hostels like the one we stayed at have 500+ beds, and massive ammounts of young people who are just annoying. I will never ever stay in a mega hostel again. The worst part was, we probably only saved ourselves 15 dollars. We had a really nice Australian guy as a room mate though, and we went to this basement Japanese bar called Tanuki's cave that was the best place we have found in Auckland. Tanuki is a Japanese racoon dog and was the theme for the place. We had a ton of fun.
We left Auckland on day 15 of "biking". We took a short train outside of the city limits to Papakura and rode about 75KM to Miranda heading east. This ride took us on what they call the Seabird Coast (see the photo above with the bird statue). It was incredibly beautiful. Tons of wildlife and just beach scenes you wouldn't believe. We stayed in a campground next to a thermal pool and enjoyed it fully. It was my first time in any hot springs, and you won't believe how nice it feels on tired muscles.
Day 16 we rode about 50 KM to Taupo, making a quick stop in Thames. Thames is the start of the Coromandel penninsula, reputedly the best beaches in New Zealand. Along the way we spotted the sign above "Save the Human Babies". Pretty great right? We stopped in Thames to get my bike gears fixed and found the best bike shop. Paki Paki was the first bike shop here that had a good selection and people who were super helpful. The auckland bike shops kind of just sucked. It started to pour rain when we got into Taupo and we stopped for the night at a motor camp that featured camping. When we got there they had a sign for backpackers for 12 dollars, while camping was 14. So we asked, and ended up in a 50's streamliner trailer for the night that smelled like someone died in it. We tried not to touch anything, including the bed.
Day 17 we woke up to pouring pouring rain. I think the theme of our trip is rain, it is all we got. We spent the morning trying to decide if it was worth sitting in the nasty campervan all day, or biking through the storm over the mountains to Coromandel town. We finally broke and got on our bikes. After about 10KM we regretted it fully but kept going over 3 different terrible climbs over the Coromandel mountain range to finally land in the cutest town. We got a hostel that night and dried out.
Day 18 we left Coromandel to head up and over the Penninsula to the east coast of it to Whitianga. The ride started out with a 4KM climb up over a mountain, and while Dale trudged up, I felt like dieing a little. This is so challenging both physically and mentally. This ride took us over some dirt roads on seacliffs to the top of the Penninsula. Every time I think I am in the most beautiful place I have ever been, we go further and its the most beautiful place. New Zealand is amazing. We arrived 50KM later in Whitianga soaked. We got a hostel for the night again, and spent the evening with a retired police officer from the UK who was on a 2 month vacation. He got Dale drunk and told us the craziest stories.
Today we took a day off, just enjoying the beach and waiting for the storm to pass. We plan to take a few days going down the East Coast, before heading inland and heading towards Hamilton and south.
In 2 days it will be a month since we got here, and since Dale quit smoking. We are so so so happy with both. So yeah, here is that. I am going to go enjoy the beach some more!