Miskin David Kinnaird

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Lil Abner : Kabuki drop and Fabrics.

In the model box of the set, 6 fabrics are hung at the back of the set. These fabrics play a pretty important role in a specific scene. For the majority of the show these fabrics are hidden in the rig and then dropped. When dropped, the actors are meant to rip the fabric off of the bar and do their thing. This was another job for the construction crew. Much like the dance show we planned on dropping these fabrics via a kabuki drop. This was the one task tee had the most difficultly with. We couldn't have 3 fabrics either side like the model, as there would be a drop slack, which would extremely noticeable by the audience. Instead we decided to layer each fabric in the centre of the rig, and have to kabuki slightly elevated in front. We decided that the way the actors were to rip the fabric, would be using Velcro. Therefore we had to sow, some Velcro to the end of each cloth to ensure that it wouldn't come off and any given point. Also, there were no bars up in the rig which were suitable for our needs. Therefore we had to make one. Using some old wood and some clamps. We made a rigging bar. we had to make sure that this was painted black before rigging as it would stand out like a sore thumb during the show if it wasn't. We also stapled the over end of the Velcro to the bar to ensure that it would fall of when they ripped it. We then went into the space and rigged both the bar and the kabuki. All the wiring for the kabuki was done exactly the same as it was done previously. Police the Velcro was sown on, we connected them all up one by one. Then compressed them all together and placed it into the kabuki. we had to make sure we did a test run, to ensure that our device actually works before the show. Much like the dance show, we had to be present each show night to operate the kabuki drop and to reset the fabrics before the show.

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Lil Abner : The Turning Trees Another big piece of the Lil Abner set is the inclusion of two pulleys holding trees, which can be twisted to become the inside of the office. Figuring out how this would work was one problem we encountered. Eventually we came across and purchased a pulley which woild be locked into place, but when pulled down, could be twisted and re-locked. Next we began on the trees themselves, we created a metal ladder like frame, in which we could Attach to the bottom of the pulley, and could screw the tree too. Whilst this was in progress, we split into groups doing various jobs, my job was to cut the shapes of the trees. We combined a sheet of 8x4 and 4x4 to create a large 12x4 sheet of wood, which would be the max height of the tree. The observing the model, shown above, I carefully pencilled out where I thought every curve and spike should go. Once marked do a satisfactory standard, I used a jigsaw to carefully fit them out, ensuring that the two sheets of wood lined up. Once done, we drilled down holes though the wood into the metal, and screwed the wood down. Now the tree side was completed apart from painting. The other side consisted of a larger pillar, and a continuation of the skirting from the office. Using some old plastic moulds from previous shows, we carefully cut them and used them to cover the majority of the metal frame, as shown above. The were them stapled down, carefully trying not to staple though the wood and Into the floor. As for the skirting, we used some small offcuts and measured the distance from the floor to each piece. Then measuring in on the actual tree itself, we marked and screwed them down. Upon rigging the trees, we encountered one major problem. This being that the structure was too heavy for the spring in the pulley, and so couldn't be locked off. This was a problem that could not be resolved and unfortunately had to be put up with.

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Lil Abner : Get In and Floor. Once everything has been constructed it was time to get in. Unlike previous shows I had worked on, this who had scenic flooring. For this we used various think sheets of 8x4 sheets. Before applying these, we opened the dock and got everything we needed into the space. We began by finding and marking s centre line in the space. The simply by lining the ramp up with said centre line, we could start applying the floor. To apply he floor, we used long staples over brads. this is because brads are extremely difficult to remove one in, and ultimately, we would like to remove the staples after. We put multiple staples in the corners and any areas which appear to raisin in anyway, to prevent things from getting caught and damaging the floor. We also staples down areas of the ramp to the floor so that it was flush up either the flooring. To finish off the curve, we stapled the cyclorama to the ramp as well, making sure it was as tight and straight as possible.

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Lil Abner : prop making. There were two major props in the set, the first being a control box in the lab (photo to be added) and a desk in the office. The first one we started upon was the desk. For this we used both the physical set and the model. We used the physical set to measure how long it should be, as it it flush at the edge, and used the model to know roughly how wide and high it should be. Having gathered these measurements, we began marking and cutting. Due to this being a desk, it needed to be study, and able to support doe weight. Therefore we used some slightly thick wood, but not as quick as the base. We put his together very similarly to the ramp. We used some gorilla glue and brads to hold the entire thing together. Like the ramp this ensured that the thing would not collapse in anyway. We also added some blocks underneath to help support the weight asserted on it in the centre, these also allowed us more points to screw deon from. To finish off we screwed it straight into the base of the truck. To add a small bit of decoration, using a brad gun, we applied some olds panels we had in the workshop to the front edge of the desk and a small run around the top edge. The second big prop we had was the control box in the lab. This was constructed exactly the same way as the desk previously. We used the model for measurements, marked and cut measurements, applied glue and brads to correct areas and we were left with a large rectangular box. The detail was very similar to the rest of the lab, the high voltage sign was done using the same method as before. Small squares were cut from offcuts and painted to act as dials and buttons. To apply the control box, we lined it up with the door, making sure, like the flaps it was elevated from the ground slightly, and screw through the door into the box.

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Lil Abner : Carving and rigging the truck roofs.

Deciding on how we were gonna approach the roofs was one of the most difficult decisions during the in the entire set. Eventually we concluded that we should carve it into polystyrene. We began by using the frame of the roof we had already build as a template and traced the shape onto a sheet of polystyrene. We then marker out where each piece of brick needed to be carved. Once marked we used a metal wire brush to start tearing away at the polystyrene until we were at a pint in which were were all pleased with. We then used some damn cloth and created a mache over the polystyrene. This helped the design team as it is practically impossible to paint polystyrene as it all falls apart. Therefore, this mache gave them a good texture to paint upon. Once fully painted, we could finally rig them. Like before, as a team we all held the poly in place exactly where it needed to go. Whilst being held. Someone else would brad the poly from the other side. We didn't use full length brads as we don't want the brads to go all the way through the poly and otherwise cause a risk. Once this was done the roofs were complete.

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Lil Abner : Decorating the office truck. The next truck that needed decorating was the office truck. We wanted this truck to seem much nicer and more prestigious than the previous truck so therefore we cladded the inside with the same flat wood we had used for the doors. This made it look more room like and concealed all of the horrible framework. We used some 8x4ft sheets of this wood. We first held it into the desired place and and then marked out each each that needed to be cut. These were then cut using either a jigsaw of circular saw depending on the size of the desired area. Rather than using a brad gun, yet again we used the 2mm drill and some screws, this allowed us to go straight into the metal and as close to the edges as we could. This therefore made the cladding flap less and prevent the actors from ripping it. However one problem we did encounter was that the wood was extremely floppy in places. To counter this, we used some offcuts of 2x1 wood and slotted them between both prices of cladding, this created a makeshift cross beam we could clad too. We then begun on the skirting board. For this we used some 4x1 wooden beams which were cut to the appropriate length, these were then screw down through the cladding and into the metal. We put one at the top and one at the bottom. As s construction member, it is our job to sometimes change the design of the set to fit our need where it still follows the concept. In our case we had to do this. In the original model. There is only skirting too and bottom, however in our finished truck we had to add a centred one too. This is due to the fact that there were some slightly obvious seals I the cladding which we couldn't cover any other way. Before filling out this, we check with the designer whether they were happy with the change and they were.

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Lil Abner : decorating the science Lab. Now that the general build of the trucks were complete we could finally start adding some detail too them. The first one we worked on was the science lab. This area consisted of a series of pips and technological items and science stuff. We did not plan to clad the inside of this area as we wanted to give it a rustic feel as a real lab would have, and we honestly didn't have the materials. We first began with the clock, seen in the image above. we followed this exactly from the model and so followed its measurements. After measuring, we marked out a thin piece of wood and cut it using a circular saw. As this was only something minor and had to be hung, we only used thin wood. We then printed and cut s serious of numbers and patterns which we evenly spaced and stuck down using PVA glue. We copied this process over too the red warning sign. We then finished off all of the wall decor, by adding some safety sheets we had printed out. The final price of this truck were the pipes, for these we used some white pvc pipes which we went out and sourced. After measuring the model and marking on the wall there each pipe should be, we cut them down to the correct length. Rather than glueing them too the wall. Or cutting hole in the wall. We got some thick packing plates and used a circular drill piece to cut a hole the exact size of the diameter of the pipe. This way we could attach that to the wall and slot the pipe in the hole.

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Lil Abner : Flaps, Doors and Porches. As well as the main bulk of the frame. There were further additional which had to be added. The first of these were the flaps. On each truck, there was a single flap. This was an extra wall, which was attached by hinges to the main bulk. This could therefore, be opened and closed at will allowing the insides of each truck to seem bigger. To crest these, we used some 1x1 steal beams. We used these over 2x1 as the flap was elevated from the ground and therefore we didn't want make it heavy as this could result in the truck tipping. we measure the height of the wall and the length of the edge of the base it would press against. We used these measurements to create a metal rectangle. One of the flaps had a door on, so exactly the same as before we used some more 1x1 and measure and marked each corner of the door. Just like before we added some 1x1 wooden beams and then used them to clad each flap using the same slated wood as before. Once this was down we could attach them. To go this, we rested them in the base of the truck, in the position they would be when closed, we used some packing plates to elevate them as if it was flush to the base it would hard to difficult and would scratch both the wood and paint. Whilst two of us held it in place, ensuring it was a 90 degrees to the floor, we welded 3 hinges in place to ensure it was stable and strong. To add the finishing touches, we used a will with an extremely long bolt attached too it, and attached to the end of the flap. This mad sure that the flap would not tilt and shift the truck in anyway. Next came the porch areas. We built these exactly the same way in church we built the base of the truck. We used the model for measurements and angles and cut some 2x1 metal to the corresponding lengths. We attached wheels of the same height to the bottom to ensure it was the same distance away from the floor as the truck and then bolted it tightly together. Then using try same wood as before , we marked and used a circular saw to cut the market line. We used a circular saw instead of a jigsaw as we needed to cut some long straight lines rather than short curves. The show of the circular saw minimises movement to ensure lines are straight. We later did some clean up and cladded the edges with the slanted wood we used for the rest of the truck. Finally what was left was the doors. Yet again these were created exactly the same as the rest. Instead of using the model box for measurements, we used the door frame itself, therefore we could ensure that the door would fit and would be snug. We used some 1x1 steam beams as that was the thickness of the rest of the current steelwork and created the door shape. We added some 2x1 steel cross beams in the centre too. However we cladded these slightly different than before. For these we used some thin, flat sheets of wood, as we wanted he door to look like a door and not simply a part of the wall. Instead of bradding, we used the 2mm drill and some screws, this allowed us to screw right to the edge of the door as the wood we used was very floppy. The cross beam we added also aided in preventing this, we drilled into this too, we meant that there was less place for the wood to dip into, making it straighter. Same as the flaps we then held he door in place, ensuring it wasn't snug on the ground, and welded some hinges. Now that this was done we started to add some decor, we used some offcuts off the slanted wood and cut them down the centre, we then I covered the rim of the door with these and the centre, shown in the image above, this allows to door to stand out more and look slightly nicer. To finish up, we added both a handle on either side, and a lock. This allowed the actors to open the doors from either side and lock it shut, this prevented the door from swinging open mid scene and affecting the show.

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Lil Abner : Building and fitting the truck roofs. The final piece left for the main structure of the trucks were the roofs. As previously stated, as a construction crew member, we have to know when things cannot be done. The roofs are an example of this. If we were to follow the model exactly, the the roofs would extrude so much that they would knock any light or speaker in the rig. To counter this, instead of having a pointed roof, we flattened it, like a barn. We began by making the metal structure. We continued from the model as designed, however cut away at 4ft. We did so as this is around the minimum height in which one would need a cross bream when cladding to provide strength. This also happened to be the perfect height for the show. We eventually ended up with a 1x1 metal trapezium which could be attached. Before attaching this. We used the same 1x1 wooden beams as the truck and attached them to each side of the trapezium. This served the same purpose as before. However again we slightly modified the design, to make the set look slightly nicer. If the panels on the truck were horizontal, the panels on the extension would be vertical and the other way around. This made things easier as on the vertical, panel led truck, should we have continued, we would've had to have made sure each panel would have lined up, which would waste valuable time. Once called we could attach it too the track. This frame being as heavy as it was, meant we couldn't simply walk it up a ladder and hold it there. Instead we used some chain hooks from the rig, design for putting up the header portals, and attached it to the top of the frame. This way we could elevate it, move the truck underneath And hold it in place. To attach the two, we used time m12 bolts which we made sure were s stint as possible. Next came the slightly difficult part. Next we had to make the roof frames themselves, these we would weld to the frame , up against the trapezium and slightly overhang the top of the wall, as shown in the image above. The create these, we yet again used the, model box for measurements and slightly altered the angles to our newer measurements. We eventually ended up with a slanted triangle like shape. This we cladded with some slightly thicker wood but not too thick. This we would rest some carved polystyrene one which would give the roof some texture. As the actual roof was slanted, we could not bolt it down, therefore we had to weld it straight on, working as a team, we each grabbed a corner of the frame and lifted it into place whilst our tutor welded it all together, enough that we knew it couldn't fall apart. Now finally, the main structure of the house was complete.

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Lil Abner : Cladding and apply the base to the truck frames. Once the trucks were complete, we could begin work on cladding. The outsides of each trucks were meant to represent some wooden shack like houses. As a result of this, we used some slanted wooden panels can, shown in the photos above. We began by measuring the height of the structure and then measured and cut each panel one by one. We used a brad gun to attach each panel, ensuring they were flush to the edges of the frame and pushed tightly up against each other. When branding these, we had to make sure we bradded at an angle, if we didn't, the brad would go straight though the wood and becomes a hazard for the actors, also it makes it easier for the panel to come loose when leant on. When adding the panels we made sure that we left gaps where the doors and windows were positioned as they were to be added at a later date. Once this was complete we began work on the base. For this we used some very thick wooden sheets. We chose these over the thinner sheets as we needed something strong which could support the actors weight, and wouldn't colas when they stood on it. We measure and cut each panel of wood according to each part of the base. We then used the 2mm drill and drilled though he wood and straight into the metal, these were immediately screwed down afterwords.

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Lil Abner : building the house framework. The main attraction of the Lil Abner set were two movable trucks. These trucks could be used as both houses and rooms when placed in the correct position. It was our job to create them. We began with the framework. As both trucks were shaped like trapeziums, we were unable to used steal deck for the base of the frame, as it would cost too much too purchase deck which fit the shape and size. Therefore we had to construct the frame itself. We began by measuring the base of each truck, learning the size and angle of each side. Using 2x1 steel beams, we used the information gathered to create the outside edges of the frame. We then used more 2x1 beams and added some cross sections within the middle. This strengthened the truck and gave us more points to screw into later. One these were all welded together we flipped it over and attached 4 wheels to the bottom. Before applying theses wheels, we took them apart and ensured that nothing was caught in them and made sure they're tight. We also applied some grease to the hole of the wheel to help it move more easily. We welded these on rather than screwing them as it ensured that they were tight and wouldn't collapse when pressure was inserted upon them. At this point the base of the frame was done. Now we began on the vertical frame. We measure the height of each wall on the model and cut some more 2x1 to the corresponding lengths. We then measured the distance of each window and door from each edge and marked out on the frame where they were. This allowed us to place the the vertical beams exactly where the edges of the the Windows and doors were. After welding the vertical beams on, ensuring they were at 99 degrees by using a square, we added an horizontal beam across the top go connect them all together. Once the general frame was complete, we could now start adding the detail. We measured out each corner of each window and door separately as some of them we slanted in the design. We then marked a line where each bar should go and the angle required. Using this, we could place the bar up against the metal and mark on the bar where is need to be cut. After marking, cutting and grinding, we welded each bar into place and the metal work of the frame was complete. Finally, to finish the frame we added some 1x1 wooded bars along each vertical frame. This is because when cladding, we cannot clad into steel, therefore we added the wood to allow us something to clad into.

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Lil Abner : creating the ramp. Having got the required measurements, we could start building the ramp. We began using some very thick 4x4 wooden sheets. These were too be used for the main structural frame of the ramp. These were intended to be cut into curves which would later have wooden beams conjoining them which would have sheets of wood laid upon the top. The ramp being as big as it was, meant we had to build it in 2 separate pieces. Therefore it was vital that the angle on each sheet of 4x4 was the same, otherwise certain parts of the ramp would be at different points. For this we used the same technique as the dance show disks however inverting it now. We set the large compass at 4ft and made sure that it would slip or change at any point. We then placed the pointed edge, flush on the corner of the sheet and created a curve. Out of each sheet we could create a maximum of 2 curves, therefore in saved wood in some way. We wanted each curve to be positioned 4ft away from each other to improve the overall strength of the ramp. We took the overall measurement of each half, and divided by 4, this gave u an exact number of curves we would need. After they were all marked, we carefully cut each one with a jigsaw. Once they were cut, we laid each of them on top of one another, this way we could check to see if any of them were slightly off, or whether there were any bumps. At the present moment, there was nothing holding the up. Therefore, we need to apply some beams along them to hold them all in place. As a whole we used 6 separate beams; 2 top and bottom, and then 4 evenly spaced in the middle. The two at the top and bottle, served to whole the structure up, the centre ones added to this but gave us something to apply the cladding to thee ramp, therefore making it less floppy. We latter added one, on the bottom, at the back to help with the sturdiness. To apply these we used a wood glue called gorilla glue, this glue works. By expanding to create a foam like substance which sticks to any surface. We then later reinforced this bond using a brad gun. One of the images above shows the finished frame, and said glue. All that was left now was the cladding. We used the same wood we used previously on the dance show as it was easy to bend without snapping, allowing us to create our bend. Again, we used a brad gun to Brad into each bean and curve we had created. However this time we coated the entire structure in PVA glue. We used this help reinforce the cladding as we didn't want it to come loose. We used PVA over gorilla glue as we wanted the cladding to be flush up against the frame, and where the gorilla glue foams up, it would prevent such actions. The photo above shows the finished product.

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Lil Abner : The Beginning/ Measuring. Upon completion of the dance show get out we could now make a start our main show of Lil Abner. This show was slightly different from our previous shows, in the sense that this time we had a physical model of the set. This model it's self was in a scale of 1:25. This meant that the model itself if 25 times smaller than the actual set. Therefore life was made slightly easier as we could use the 1:25 edge of a scale ruler to find out the exact measurements of every piece of the set. The images above show; the model, a scale ruler and me measuring the model. However in some cases we couldn't use the model for measurements, this being the infinity curve. This set included an infinity curve at the back, this is a large ramp which joins with the cyclorama so that the audience cannot see where the floor meets the wall. Although this was included in the model, we could not trust its measurement. Instead we went into the theatre and measured both the height and width of the current cyc. This gave us better measurements as we needed to allow room either side to allow passage. Having got these measurements we needed to find a white piece of cloth, of those measurements that could be later painted, to create the curve. Having these measurements also allowed us more easily create the ramp, and know roughly how much wood would be necessary.

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Dance Show : Kabuki Drop.

During one of the final dance pieces of the show, silks were used. There was one in the centre, and one either side of it. During the other pieces the two silks at the sides were simply swung into the wings. However there was no where we could swing the centre silk where it wouldn't be noteworthy. To counter this we used a kabuki. This is a device which allows something to drop simply from the click of a button. We pieced together the kabuki and clamped it in the centre of the rig. We could then simply, lift the silk into the kabuki, close it off and then leave it. All we needed to do was to wire it. We ran the wires along the bar it was conjoined to and them down into the wings where we left the switch. Although the movement of the disks were cut, the operation of the kabuki was a job for a construction crew member. Therefore each night we had to be present to operate the kabuki and then later reset it.

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Dance Show : applying and moving the music disks. During the show itself, the main intention for the disks was that they were meant to be able to move in and out of the stage. Our response to this, was to put them the track bar at the back of the stage. We began by drilling two 12mm holes at the top of either frames. These would then be connected to two corresponding trolleys, one that can be moved via a rope located in the wings. We begin by bring the disks into the space and then used some m12 bolts to bolt them to the two trolleys. We made sure that they were as tight as they could possibly be as if they were to fall, it could possibly kill somebody. Once both were bolted, we brought them both to the centre of the stage and ensured that they were both lined up at the centre of the stage. Now we used the rope and could smoothly move them both offstage. As a member of construction, it was my job to move any piece of set should they need to be. The addition of these disks meant that i had to present at the shows in order to move them, however in the end they were cut and continually off stage.

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Dance Show : building and sourcing the music disks. A big piece of the set, was the inclusion of 2 heaps of music disks, hung at the back of the stage. These disks had the ability to move in and out of the stage should it be necessary. Before we started building, we had to discus how we were going to cover the disks. From previous discussions with directors, we knew that they wanted the disks to be covered in a shinny cover. Our first idea was sticky back plastic. As we could lay it over each disk and stuck it down easily. One of the images above shows some research into this. Once these were ordered we could begin on the frames. For the frames we used some 1x1 and 2x1 pieces of steal beams. We cut and grinned each piece to the correct length, and used used the 1x1s round the edge, and the 2x1 to allow, any joints between two prices of wood to be stuck down. Every 4 ft of a frame intended to be classed, there must be a metal beam in the frame, as without this, the wood can become bendy and much weaker than it should be. All that was need now, was for the frame to be welded. As we are young and 'unskilled' we were unable to used the welder ourselves, instead our tutor did it for us. When using a welder however, one must wear and welders helmet, this covered the entire face to prevent any sparks from making contact, but also has a special visor, which darkens automatically when one welds. This is important as the light produced from the welder is so bright that it can blind someone. Therefore, the person welding should always shout 'eyes' before welding to allow those within the vicinity to change there field of view. Once welded, the areas welding are extremely hot and should be left for a good while before contact is made. Now that the frame was cooling we began on the woodwork. On each frame there were 3 disk, with diameters of 8ft, 6ft and 4ft. We began with the 8ft's, as the were the biggest, for these we used some 0.5 thick 8x4 sheets of wood. We used this as we didn't want to use anything too thick as it would weigh down the disks and make then extremely heavy, and if they were too think the would flop everywhere. We then measured a centre line in the middle of each sheet of wood. Using a giant compass, which was set at 4ft as that was the radius of the circle, we created two semi circles of either piece of wood. Then to finish off each half, we used a jigsaw to cut the curve of the circle. We then repeated this process for the 4ft and 6ft circles. Once cut, we first positioned each the 8ft pieces on the frame. Once happy with the positioning, we clamped the wood down ensuring that it didn't move out of place. Then we used a 0.2 cm drill, to drill some holes though the wood and into the frame itself. We then screwed these down, making sure that the screw was flush up against the wood, this ensured that there were no bumps in the plastic when it was applied. This process was repeat for all 6 disks on both frames. We then used some wet tape to cover the any seals left in the wood. This tape works by sticking when it introduced to water. Therefore being very flush against the given surface. Now we could apply the plastic. We cut this into squares which we applied and then used a scalpel to cut round the edges of the wood. On major issue we had that was dust and dirt was caught under the plastic therefore creating bumps, this was something that we couldn't avoid and had to deal with. Another issue we had was that the biggest disk slightly flapped meaning we had to apply yet another beam of metal behind to prevent this. We then cut some smaller plastic Black circles which we applied to the middle of each circle to give it more of disk look.

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Dance show : constructing the set. In general, the dance show was very similar to the the Music gig, the entire set consisted of steal deck on metal legs. So exactly like the music gig, we relocated all of the deck into the work space, and ensure we had the correct number of legs of the correct length, cutting any should we need too. And finally attached some metal railing and stairs where they were necessary. One major difference from the music gig was the inclusion of cladding. This is where we coat the edges of the steel deck with thin sheets of wood. The makes the set as whole look nicer, and prevents behind and under the deck from being seen. We used thin sheets of wood, for the cladding as it isn't too heavy and won't add any weight too the deck. As seen in the design above, we were dealing with curved pieces of deck too, therefore using the thin wood allowed us to curve the wood round the curved. To attach the cladding, we used an air pressure staple gun. We didn't use a brad gun, and later on the cladding will need removing, and although the wood is easy to remove, the brads aren't quite so easy. As we were working in a auditorium rather than the workshop, meant we had to move a compressor into the space. This is a device that turns engine power into compressed air, and compresses it into a large tank. The compressor runs off of 16 amp power which meant that we had to bring a transformer into the workspace as the room only had 13 amp sockets available. We then connected the compressor and the staple gun via a hose and powered up the device. We were now good to clad. When using a staple gun, one must wear googles at all times to protect the eyes and must be wary of ones surroundings. When stapling, one must ensure that they know where the hands are and that they are not in the radius of the gun as it could possibly go throw the given surface and straight into their hand. Also, one apply a good amount of pressure to the gun, the ensure that the staples sink into the wood. This makes the cladding look nicer and as a whole stronger. Once this was done, the main part of the set was complete.