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June 21st

We decided we wanted to get all the “tourist” things out of the way to give ourselves a rest the next day, it is super hot and hard to be constantly moving around in the middle of the day. The Bahia palace was up first, the ceiling were incredible, wooden carvings, mosque and the gardens lush with green and fountains, however, it was quite small. I would say it was worth the 10 DH. Only just around the corner was The Sadian tombs, which again were quite small, maybe not worth the 10 DH but at the same time were a must do. It was kind of creepy knowing we were standing over dead bodies but I envied that they got to lie in such a beautiful place. The mosque stone tombs were multi sized, sadly some were quite small. What was interesting was that some had large “heads” (cement handle looking blocks). We guessed this meant they were more important to some extent.

We then decided to make it back through all the market streets browsing all the stunning jewellery, scarfs, spices and everything in between. I’m not going to beautify this picture the way everyone else does. In all honesty I was expecting more colour, like the photos of those beautiful colourful spice stalls. There were a few pretty cool ones with these large triangle shapes many of which look kind of like the sorting hat (for Harry Potter fans). The reality is just your standard markets with the same stuff in every stall and eager men (some women) trying to get you to enter their stall and purchase something, anything.

I managed to swipe a ring and another pair of earring (I have a brewing obsession) before we headed to the hostel to play games with our very sneaky vodka. Alcohol is like a pot of gold in Morocco especially in Ramadan because they can’t drink. I learnt a new game called shit head and we got a little tipsy it was a good, chilled night.

Morocco

June 20th

We were leaving for Marrakech at 4pm which we were honestly sad about, we loved it in Essaouira, it was so relaxed and the temperature was perfect. Supposedly Marrakech was way more intense, people coming and grabbing you and the heat was about 50 degrees Celsius, hotter than I had ever been in my life. We spent our last few hours window shopping again and relaxing with some food and socialising.

The best part about staying in hostels is hearing everyone’s stories and everyone is our hostel was so keen to socialise so it was awesome. There were actually a fair amount of Australians but everyone spoke English anyway. Those who weren’t from Australia were interesting, finding out about their country and slang and teaching them ours. The workers were all really fun and did well to give us an outlook into Moroccan life.

One of the workers got really deep with me at one point, telling me he only earns 40 dirham a day that’s about $6 working all day and night. That’s barely enough for food and then to save, impossible. It made me quite emotional hearing the reality of Moroccan life and how hard they really have it and how lucky we truely are.

4 o’clock came along all too fast an it was time to say goodbye to this incredible place and all the people. Before we new it the sea breeze was far behind us and the thick heat had swarmed onto us like flies hunting sugar. If there is one way to see a country, it’s driving through it. Although long drives are torture they give you an opportunity to see the place you are in even if you are constantly “just passing”. I always try to keep my eyes on the landscapes while in transit.

Moroccan landscape is very dry but has plenty of vegetation too. However, the shrubs and trees are not that bright Fluro colour but rather a dark green. So Morocco is primarily a pinky brown and dark green colour scheme. There is plenty of animals, my favourite being the donkeys just because they are something different I don’t see at home but I always feel so sorry for them carrying the massive loads probably long distance. Many of these animals like horses and sheep also appear very malnourished in the fields, the green is probably too dry. This is probably the saddest part of Morocco.

There are heaps of cute cats everywhere some look well looked after and some aren’t and I just want to take them all under my wings. There aren’t as many dogs but those that are around are usually more malnourished I think cats are exotic whereas dogs are not as loved by the locals which is hard to see for a dog person but I think I’ve really found a new found love for cats on this trip that’s for sure.

As we rolled into Marrakech I was interested to see another theme, the buildings all seemed to be painted a pinky orange colour, the kind you think of when you think or Morocco. Later we found out that Marrakech is the word for the colour and that all the main city’s had colour themes; Casablanca white and Chefchauan blue.

We browsed the city square night markets and noticed that all the centre food stalls were all exactly the same and because of this all push there prices up to be inline making it a bit more expensive than everywhere else. Although, I did enjoy my skewers. We had a little look around but travelling is exhausting so we decided to call it a night.

June 19th

We decided we wanted to actually succeed in some purchases so we took off to find some good deals in the markets. We scolded the entire medina, I purchased 2 pairs of earrings and Lachie got a bracelet which we got for absolute bargains. Everything was so nice I would love to just buy the whole medina but unfortunately I need my bag space!

We had aimed to join Ramadan and fast for the whole day but we only lasted until 12 before caving and getting some baguettes, avocado and Moroccan spice mix. Cheap and very satisfying. After eating and relaxing on the rooftop for a while we went down to the beach where Kelly and I actually went for a swim something I didn’t think I would be doing in Morocco. It just goes to show it’s honestly not like what anyone says. Obviously people have different experiences but so far ours was really good. There honestly isn’t that much to do without getting transport elsewhere which is always an option but we were quite happy just staying locally and really relaxing.

Morocco

June 18th

We decided the day would be spent adventuring the little town. It was instantly cooler than both Madrid, Tangier and Casablanca because of the cool sea breeze. People also seemed to be really nice and calm. We had heard the people in the markets were much worse and prepared ourselves for lots of haggling and grabbing but all in all we felt quite safe through the streets.

Of course there were the beggars and those who tried to push you in their shops or to buy something and a few weird looks from men but nothing like what people tell you. I suppose it is quite a chilled out beachy town and there are lots of tourists so they are use to it or maybe it is because they are too tired due to Ramadan. We took multiple trips back and forth from the hostel deciding we should go for a swim and ended up spending a few hours relaxing on the shore. Although Kelly and I did feel a bit overexposed we got use to it and it was fine there were plenty of other in bikinis and I think the locals were use to that.

The day was honestly just very relaxed walking around and window shopping and the night spent similarly to the one before: however before the singing started we dined at the hostel. They put on a 7 course meal for 60 Dirham which is $9, nothing back at home. The meal started with bread and olives, then came out the soup, followed by some salad and a rice dish and for the main attraction tagine which is a traditional way of making food in Morocco. There was meat and vegetable dishes filled with delicious spices. Dessert was biscuits and fruit which I did of course squeeze into my bulging tummy. A very successful feast to say the least.

We aimed to get up by 8 and down to free breakfast by 8:30 but for some reason (maybe jet lag) I woke up at 7 filled with energy and ready to do crazy burpees or something. I was feeling incredibly fatty from all the carbs I had been eating, before the trip I was eating a fairly strict low carb diet so this was a massive shift for my body. I also needed to stretch, I was feeling very tight. So I got up did some stretching and grabbed my resistance band to do a few exercises (nothing too intense that I would feel sore and not want to walk later on but enough to feel less like a slob).

Kelly and lachie woke up and we went to breakfast down stairs: tasty fresh OJ, croissant, bread, jam, a hard boiled egg and mint tea (my fave thing about Morocco so far). We packed up and went to see the Hassan II mosque. It was quite quiet out so it was really nice.

The beautiful blue mosaic structure stood high in the clear blue sky it was truely mesmerising. We took envy over the local boys that lay on the wall above a stunning rock pool jumping in and out. We hurried back to the hotel for check out, stocked up on water and snacks and took the trek the the bus station. Btw packs are very heavy, don’t think you’ll be doing much when you are lugging them around it is not fun! We had a 3 hour wait before our 7 hour bus stop. We awkwardly attempted to eat and drink on the sly so as to not upset anyone. Kelly said she felt like a school kick trying to eat in class which was very true.

The bus trip was long to say the least. I tossed and turned and studied the landscape that lay outside the window. Although the best thing happened when we stopped off to celebrate the end of Ramadan. It was a stop over with only two little restaurants. We stayed on the bus wondering how long we would be waiting for the driver to eat his meal before deciding to get off, stretch our legs and see what was on the menu. There was meat cooking on these barbecues outside the restaurants but they were smoking them in a traditional way. Imagine a wire rack clamped together with meat in between. I had no idea what it was but I knew I wanted it. I attempted to ask the chef if I could have one of what he was making and was sent to the counter where meat hung around the interior. I tried asking for one but it was obvious he did not speak any English at all. He started making something else mincing the meat when I wanted the fresh meat so I reinstructed. By this stage Lachie had joined to watch what was going on.

They brought out a mint tea mug and two cups instructing us to sit and drink. We were a bit hesitant thinking it may cost more. A group of South Korean boys had also hopped off the bus to dine and spoke English so I asked if they knew what the deal was. They were also not entirely sure but had picked up that it was 50 dirham about $7 for the meat, bread and mint tea so we sat down and they brought over both the minced and non minced meat, I guessed it was beef or lamb. The man then began shoving the meats and onion in the bread with his dirty hands which I really didn’t like the idea of but it looked so delicious and it was too late to turn back. Lachie and I bit into the meat filled bun simultaneously feeling as though our mouths had entered heaven. The Moroccan spices and the onion taste were something someone who had never been to Morocco can never truely imagine. We hopped on the bus satisfied by our decision.

Before I could even fall asleep we had made it to Essaouira. We weren’t entirely sure where to go as the sun was down and we were dropped in a very quiet part of town so we took a taxi to the medina. A medina is like a square with houses and markets, cars cannot enter so from there we were on our own. We had a few people offer to help us find our way (for money obviously) but Lachie insisted he knew where to go. Lachie is a magician at finding places and I still do not understand how on earth he knew where to go in the maze. We were cheerfully greeted in our hostel by nice smiling locals.

A group were surrounded in the common room singing Moroccan music so after a quick tour of this insane looking hostel we went and joined for the night. The place is honestly how you would picture a traditional Moroccan hostel; cool fabric and art of the walls, Mosaic tiles and the most insane roof top terrace with a bar (which didn’t actually serve alcohol). The lounges serves as a barricade for the view of the medina and the incredible ocean just beyond.

We all couldn’t stop smiling and we’re overwhelmed with our luck. I heard rumours of bed bugs and that smile somewhat fell. I was determined not to get any so I looked up how to avoid them. Rubbing alcohol is supposedly the answer so I drenched myself in my hand sanitiser and nodded off for the night.

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Heaven can be a place on Earth