Synthetic dyes were invented in 1856, before which, only natural dyes were available. Natural dyes were produced from plants, animals, and minerals. For example, the rich, and very expensive, purples of the Renaissance era were derived from a specific type of ocean mussel; and this shade was replicated with plant-derived dyes by those of lower classes. Bright vibrant reds came from the madder root, and a variety of vibrants shades were developed from local flowers.
"Are synthetic dyes, which contain toxic chemicals, safe to wear? Professor Gang Sun at the university of California, Davis, suggests that molecules of dye off-shed and have the potential to engage with the pores of the skin."—Belinda Orzada and Mary Ann Moore ("Environmental impact of textile production" in Sustainable Fashion Why Now?)
Synthetic dyes allow for large quantities of fabric to be dyed quickly, further promoting our fast-fashion culture. Many of the compounds in synthetic dyes and colorant finishing treatments are toxic or “carcinogenic.” A filtration and treatment system is needed to purify and restore water that has been used with synthetic dyes; however, this technology is not available in all countries, such as less developed countries, and many less developed countries prioritize production for their economy over a consciousness of the environment. The issue of purifying water that has become toxic from synthetic dyes is especially an issue in China, the world’s leading producer of apparel, in which many parts irresponsibly produce in unsafe and unsustainable ways. People in China are becoming sick from the polluted air and water.
“I have personally seen chemical dyes running in a rivulet along a street and directly into the Pearl River between Guangzhou and Hong Kong.”—Paul Gill (“Economy of a Scale: A Global Context” in Sustainable Fashion Why Now?)
Present-day environmental concerns have renewed the modern audience’s interest in natural dyes. The benefits of natural dyes make them an obvious choice over synthetics: less energy consumption in the process of dyeing fabric, fewer consumer allergic reactions, and ability to biodegrade naturally. Despite this, there are many reasons for which synthetic dyes are primarily used in the fashion industry. In addition to synthetic dyes being the easiest and fastest way to meet consumer demands, synthetic dyes produce a consistent color that does not need to be re-dyed, and the colors that are products from synthetic dyes are undeniably more vibrant and diverse. Even so, synthetic dyes are known to bleed and fade just as natural dyes do. The difference is that synthetic dyes, compared to their natural counterparts, continue to pollute the environment over the course of their lifespan.
For the future of the fashion industry, using synthetic dyes in an ethical and more responsible way will be a continuous challenge. Will we discover new ways to use synthetic dyes or develop natural alternatives that are nearly as vibrant and diverse? If the industry shifts to using more natural alternatives, will the natural resources be harvested in ethical ways? Perhaps the industrial shift to natural dyes will expand internationally as the fashion industry increasingly focuses on sustainability.
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