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45th day: October 1, 2015

8:45PM, On the way back home: I am on a gas station, eating jam and talking to policemen from Novgorod, their car broke. A truck driver from Rostov-na-Donu brought me here. And before that another truck driver gave me a ride from Krasnodar to Rostov.

In the morning Oksana and Lyosha dropped me off outside the city and I rode on a highway to find a gas station with cars.

It’s 900+ km left till Moscow. And almost no chance to catch a car. It’s night, it’s cold. I am alone and I have no idea where can I spend the night. I will not sleep until I find somebody to drive me.

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44th day: September 30, 2015

9:28AM, Krasnodar: I believe. I believe everything happening with me on the way is not by chance. I believe some power, whatever you want to call it, is directing the journey.

Yesterday @aleksander093 got me new tire and a rim. Today I’ve installed the tire and it teared too as soon as I finished. Was it by chance?...

Today is the 44th day and it’s enough. My journey is over in Krasnodar. Now I just need to get back home which is 1,329km away. Ideally – get teleported.

I have only 1,686 rubles ($25.8), which isn’t nearly enough to buy any ticket. This leaves me with improvisations again – I am leaving tomorrow morning. What do you think, how long it will take me to get back home? I don’t have my own answer to this.

42nd day: September 28, 2015

12:36PM, Krasnodar: A chain of mystical events continues. Yesterday I saw Oksana in Temryuk. We met this summer in Saint-Petersburg. She wrote me when I was on Ferry leaving Crimea. I’ve ridden a bit with her brother, and then we moved to Krasnodar, to their studio. I camped in their kitchen for the day. In the middle of the night, when everybody was sleeping, a loud bang woke me up. The tire exploded into small debris. This was so strange, as the bike was just standing and didn’t move. The same bike on which I rode 1,700km. So that’s it, it’s unrecoverable anymore. To buy a new tire I would need a little more than half of my budget. This incident reminded me the man I met yesterday. Apparently this was some kind of a sign, so maybe everything he said should be taken seriously after all?

I think I will walk in Krasnodar today and probably meet a classmate from Armenia. She has three beautiful kids now. We will remember the life which is far-far in the past. Tomorrow I will come up with a new plan to get home.

41st day: September 27, 2015

5:54PM, Temryuk: I did it: I wished for a night in Krasnodar region and I got it. Yesterday, a truck was driving next to the surf school. The driver picked me up. We got to the port and had a long wait for truck ferry, and then waited when all the cars would drive in, then waited when another boat will move so that we also moved. And so this way, we got to Tamanski semi-island at 3:30AM, missing another night sleep.

Today in the morning a stranger talked to me, and he told everything about me. Hundred percent truth. He even named the right reasons of my journey: things I never wrote here, things I never said to anybody, things I am afraid to think about sometimes. He said the meaning of this trip was to have this meeting. He said he will give me a lot of answers and also that it’s time to be back home.

I would never think such thing could happen to me. I have no explanation for this.

40th day: September 26, 2015

6:57AM, Primorskoe: It was the day before yesterday: I was in the tent in Alushta, really scared to move towards the mountains. Mountains are either victory or defeat.

Now I can brag about it. I did it. I did every f***ing meter and I am proud.

These last couple of days I was feeling exhausted and last thing I could think of, was to post something. However I experienced things to remember.

Two days ago I was riding through the most difficult part of mountains and met three pilgrims on the way. One of them didn’t eat for 15 days, the other had only a jacket and water, and the third one had a shirt, shorts and a tent.

When I got to Privetnoe village, I was completely wasted. There was the only café next to the only store in the whole village, right on the shore of the sea. I asked them for some hot water and socket to charge phone, which was offered with a big smile and a bill, 40 rubles (61 cents). It got dark quickly but I was too tired to set up the tent, so I just took out my sleeping bag and lay down under the open skies: beautiful stars, sound of the sea and my first night outside tent. I slept for only an hour and I woke up full of energy, which was so unusual. I saw falling stars and couldn’t fall asleep again. So I got up at 4AM and left on the bike. At least, I made a good use out of my energy. It’s cool riding early in the morning. By lunch I made about 65km, and then I entered the highway – full 20km uphill. And finally the energy ran out. I found a bus stop and stopped for some rest. I also found a walnut tree and collected some. Later an ancient zhiguli 02 stopped at the bus stop. Apparently they still use those in Crimea. A man went out of the car. It looked like he was trying to fix something on the car, so I offered my help. In exchange, the man drove me to Old Crimea once the car was ready. On the way we stopped to see an Armenian monastery and at the end he threw something in my basket. I checked it – it was 400 rubles ($6). I didn’t even learn his name, but I wish him a good luck.

Later, my tire punctured again, and I realized I don’t have a spare tire. I started fixing it on the highway and car stopped. The guy drove me to an auto repair. After my tire was fixed, I rode another 30 kilometers and got again to the sea. It was already dark. I saw a surf school and sat up the tent next to it. The school was having a party for the end of the season. They invited me too: there were food, drinks and cigarettes. I went back to the tent to get some warm cloths and just fell asleep. The guys from the school took care of my stuff outside.

Now I am trying to find a shower and then continue my way towards Kerch. I really hope to spend the next night in Krasnodar region. I am done with Crimea :)

38th day: September 24, 2015 cont’d

1:12PM, Solnechnogorskoe: Yes, I’d like to complain about how tired I get at times, about the slope of mountains, sweating and legs and how rapid my heart beats, about the heat and the pain. But the fact is, it’s all for the sake of doing something I thought I would never be able to.

I’ve got a message today. The person said only super professional bikers ride along the South shore. I didn’t know that. But now if I make it, I will have something to brag about. Also I was told I should eat and drink well, and rest long, to be able to handle the load.

There are a lot of grape fields, and I eat them a lot. I rode the first 25km, tried to shoot a video riding downhill, and changed my mind on the way: the bike really gets too fast, and the camera takes a lot of attention which is dangerous. I am tired, but I’ll continue. The most difficult part of the road is ahead of me.

38th day: September 24, 2015

7:14AM, Alushta: I am in Alushta, which means I took the southern way. I have to pass around 150km of serpentine road. No cars, no cities, no reserves, but me and my fears. I took the longest way, though I so really want to be home and hug my loved one.

It wasn’t the best night I had. Pretty humid. I sat up the tent not far from Alushta. Soon after a young couple on a very old zaporozhets camped next to my tent. I was happy to see people, minus their too loud chanson radio station and their loud gossiping till 1AM. I had some difficulties to fall asleep to this lullaby, and then woke up several times.

And then it rained in the morning. I saw more cars parked around the tent. There are two bicycles next to one car.

For some reason my phone turned off in the middle of the night. Since that’s my only way to use the internet, I might move my diary to offline mode, in case it happens again.

37th day: September 23, 2015

12:44PM, Simpheropol: It’s hot! I came to Simpheropol airport in the car. It’s already an hour their airplane has taken off and in another hour they will be in Moscow. At the same time I managed to ride to Simpheropol from the airport. Last night we had a farewell: loud, fun and funny. Everybody went to bed at 5AM, though we needed to move at 8.

In this last week I became pretty lazy, I forgot how it was to ride all day and have no idea where I will be staying for the night, instead I learnt to be laid back, not worry so much about the bike and my valuable items. I would leave all my stuff in the trailer with open doors and leave, while I could not imagine doing so before. But really, there is nothing really valuable among my “valuable” stuff, so I am sure even if somebody stole it, they would probably return everything (as it happened to me in Morocco).

So, next to the train station I am thinking now how to get back to Moscow: (1) ride along the south shore of Crimea with tall mountains and terribly difficult roads and gorgeous views, (2) take the highway, which would be very easy to ride but extremely boring, (3) or take a bus Simpheropol-Moscow, that costs 2,500 rubles ($37.8) for a ticket, and that’s exactly how much I have in the pocket.

I would take advice.

It’s Vlad on the photo. He’s 43 who has everything: he’s doing surfing, snowboarding, travels and parties with his two sons and friends. I am gonna miss him.

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36th day: September 22, 2015

12:52AM, Olenevka, the western spot in Crimea: My schedule has gone crazy: I go to bed at 4:30AM and wake up at 11 or 12 in the afternoon. This didn’t happen to me for a long time. Every night we have parties, surfing, talk about music and more. Trash. All the same as when I was 16 :) I am rested now, I’ve met some cool people and now the time is approaching, I should move.

Tonight, half of the gang is flying back to Moscow. No one has tickets yet, but they all knew for the whole week they knew they are flying on Tuesday. Everything is laid back, nobody is in a hurry.

If there is enough room in the car, I will join them on the way to Simpheropol, otherwise I will ride. From Simpheropol I will start my way back to Moscow. To get out of Crimea, I should get to Kerch, which will be about 300km.

I have a feeling that my mission is accomplished for this trip. I earnt a lot and for sure this will reflect on the future events in my life.

All my food is finished, all my backup cameras are broken and I have exactly half of the money I started with. This promises to make my journey going back interesting. Good morning!

It’s @smokinzorro in the video playing the guitar. Turn on the sound and share.

34rd day: September 20, 2015

7:58AM, Olenevka: Morning. The pirat flag of surfers is there. Sea is also still there.

Morning is the only time when I can be alone, cause everybody sleeps. I would love to tell about yesterday morning’s trip, but my words are not enough. There are a lot of flies in the trailer where I am. Last night I tried to sleep in the hammock, but it was cold. I feel a little sick, it has been a whole week with surfers.

I will make a list of things to do finally: (1) I should fix the bike. The same tire has punctured again. I hope it’s fixable, otherwise I don’t know how I will ride. (2) I will swim. (3).. I forgot. But this point was very important…

Soon I should move from the camp. Surfers are life family and they host me like a family. I would love to stay with them more, but also I would love to continue my journey. The whole experience with them was worth all the riding from Moscow to Olenevka. Unfortunately, though, I didn’t get a chance to try surfing, there has been no wind for a week.

Today I promised myself to clean and prepare all my stuff for the continuation. I have 2,715 rubles left ($40.1), and the rest of the money spent paid for the whole trip of 34 days and 1,500km long. Not bad.

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33rd day: September 19, 2015 cont’d

7:10PM, Olenevka: It’s sweet to be lazy. Actually not just lazy, but do nothing. Not even talk. There has not been wind, but there is an expectation. It’s great to live in an absence of rhythm, and enjoy every second. Nobody is in a hurry. Days are changing smoothly, and you cannot really feel the progress of time. Every surfer has a unique character, nobody is the team is here by chance.

All the cooking is done on fire, there are trampolines, hammock, a lot of chit chats, stories, beautiful sunsets, even more beautiful sunrises. It feels like this can last forever, unless there is a wind.

This morning Zorik and I woke up at 6 and rode to some great place, while everybody was still sleeping.

33rd day: September 19, 2015

Olenevka:

In short, we’re waiting for real wind.

30th day: September 16, 2015

12:29PM, Olenevka: Yesterday I rode 92kms to Olenevka. All the road was surrounded with steppe, pretty boring and tiring. Though the good thing is, the road was empty, so for the first time I turned on music. It’s so cool to ride with music and at some point I fell down. For the first time. Injured elbows. Well, this reminded my childhood ;) also the shorts torn again, so probably it’s their farewell.. finally.

Then I got a call from Roma, a friend of mine. He said they wrote an article in FurFur about this trip (check it: http://www.furfur.me/furfur/heros/heroes-furfur/214811-puteshestvie-krym). I’m so happy! So in order to celebrate the occasion, I found the first deli, and got a serving of Borshch.

I sent a text to @smokinzorro, and soon we met. He introduced me to his surfer friends, they all travel together in a trailer. A real paradise – a culture of living. This is going to be my first time to hang out with surfers and travel with them. Nice environment and music and a strong contrast with my trip routine so far. I’ll stay with them for a while.

28th day: September 14, 2015 cont’d

9:08PM, Donuzlav bay: I was right – it was a great day: I’ve hit two of my own records; made 78km in a little less than 3 hours and rode 126km throughout the day. Also, I learnt that wind should blow on my back, which will increase speed dramatically.

Steppes are boring to ride through. It’s like standing in a place, nothing changes and there’s no impression of getting closer to destination. I got to Popivka which was hosting KaZantip. Luckily the party is over and people gone. Or maybe not? A guy at a store offered me drugs.

Now you can see mountains of beer bottles and other leftovers of the parties. Gross. But really, I saw couple of cute buildings.

I rode to Donuzlav bay and sat up my tent here, around dolphinarium. Another night is approaching and I’ve weaned from staying alone. It’s pretty windy which makes weird sounds, the tent is almost blowing off. The only positive thoughts are about dolphins. They are somewhere here.

28th day: September 14, 2015

8:40AM, on the road: Good morning! I am on the road again and today is going to be awesome.

As expected, I woke up in the morning in a great mood, and everything was back to normal. I said goodbye to Dasha and her wonderful family (her mom packed some food and tea for me and stitched torn shorts, just like my mom would do).

Yesterday we were climbing the mountains. It was beautiful on the way and you could see a breathtaking scene from top. We also saw some guys with ropes, jumping from rocks. I was impressed.

I feel energized and ready for new adventures. It has been almost a month and I am not planning to return yet.

27th day: September 13, 2015

6:24AM, Simpheropol: It’s difficult to stop resting :) Anya left the day before yesterday…

When I just got to Crimea, I received a lot of texts from local people, some with invitations. So Dasha from Simpheropol was one of these people. She and her family are hosting me for the third day now. Yesterday I left all my stuff in their house and was exploring places on the bike, very slowly. Winds kept my speed very low.

By the way I found a beautiful lake in Skalistoe village. Water is clean and blue and the lake is surrounded with tons of garbage. Simpheropol is an average city, a bit boring. Nothing really stroke me as interesting… and, in fact, I am not a fan of cities at all. The only place worth mentioning is “stariy gorod” (Old town). That place has special spirit - Crimean ghetto. This reminded me Kerch, but with a special flavor.

Today Dasha, her friends and I are going to Kachi-kalion, a town in caves. I saw some photos of the town, it should be interesting. It’s all cool, but I should fight against the attraction of comfort I enjoy now.

I have been having some moments of weakness lately. It’s getting harder to keep up with the diary, Sometimes I want to be back home, but where is it? I am sure this will pass soon.

On Tuesday an old friend of mine is going to Olenevka. I just left it but I might return to see him. The bike will decide :)

24th day: September 10, 2015

10:06PM, Olenevka, Crimea: Tomorrow I’ll be alone again. This is the downside of the trip. I talk a lot about people I meet but there are others behind the scenes: my close relatives – my brother and sister, my parents, my cousins and the whole big Armenian family, part of who is supporting me, while the other part is questioning. Also all of my friends. This is all I am always missing on the road, I miss having the chance to sit down with my brother and tell him how my day was, or walking with a friend, or getting together with the gang and hang out with music through the night, hug mom or Anya, kiss my niece and nephews and so on and so forth. I also miss search for a place to stay every night, or the feeling that I will never again see the person hosting me. But this is part of life.

Happiness, sadness, fear, pain and all of other feelings are all valuable parts of life.

I often remember all of you, guys, I miss you all. Tomorrow Anya will leave and I will be sad. However, I enjoy that too.

By the way, 3,424 rubles ($50.6) I have right now, doesn’t seem little money anymore. After all I travelled 1,200km with a little more than $20.

My journey continues…

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