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RESTAURANT: PAIN BENI, QUEBEC CITY

This is a de-construction zone. Let me explain.

Went to Pain Beni on the advice of our concierge and we're glad we listened. Nice setting, in view of the Frontenac. Indoor and street seating.

Most dishes, although not billed as such, are deconstructed versions of what one might expect. What you can expect is that it will be great. Caesar Salad, cassoulet, deer carpaccio; everything was beautifully prepared with the de-construction approach letting chef put his or her own twist on things. Great service including wine pairing recommendations.

Would not hesitate to go back.

#quebeccity #deconstructed food

NYC Adventure - Scarpetta

Scott Conant's NYC version of this multi-city 'chain' lives up to the hype - an then some. Many reviews rave about the spaghetti with tomato and basil. Big deal - one might think. Think again. If I weren't such a prude, I might call is orgasmic.

Subtle yet intense. no diary - yet almost creamy. I now completely understand why he yells at Chopped contestants who rinse pasta. The starch creates a creaminess that defies description. That was a mid-course

For mains - we both had fish - Bass and Black Cod - and one was as good as the other. Kitchen was willing to create a less filling appetizer for my better half - much appreciated.

Kitchen hiccup delayed entrees, and to ensure we had no bad impressions, desserts were on the house. That's what the good places do. Actions speak louder than words.

Staff did an excellent job at pairing wines by the glass with my orders. In a city with something like 8000 restaurants on trip advisor - this is an absolute do-over. Definitely in my top 20 restaurant meals ever

NYC Adventure - Friedmans Lunch (for breakfast)

Great little place in Chelsea market. Better half had eggs with chicken sausage and hash. Eggs done perfectly, sausage had a great herb and sweetness profile (apple maybe?). I had a special which was woodland mushrooms sautéed in truffle butter on ciabatta, with buratta and fried egg. I told the waiter - you had me at mushrooms and truffle.

Chelsea market is great little place to explore on a Saturday morning. My OCD sees me plan many of our meals, but this was a serendipitous choice by the better half and I would scurry back here in a new York minute (pun intended).

Chow for now ;-)

North 44

I have to admit that I am not as in tune with the Toronto restaurant scene as I wish I could be.

Went to North 44 for the first time on a Friday in late June.

Stem to stern, one of the most impressive restaurant experiences I have had in the last while.

Front of house rocked it!! Party of 13. Great service. Great teamwork. Service was effecient and unobtrusive.

Food was fabulous. Full party sampled much of the menu and specials. I was all set for the lamb ragu with tagliatelle, but bison tartare changed that plan. Great change in plans. Perfect spice profile. Bison can tend toward the lean, but well prepared. Duck breast with seared fois gras was sumptuous. Dessert was a delicious cheese plate. Have to say - some people in party found the quasi-sticky toffee pudding / chocolate cake a bit dry.

With a bit of investigative research, only other question would be why was LCBO listed white offered at about 150% above cost when consignment Petit Syrah was closer to 225% to 250% above cost.

Past posts will show that to be one of my 'pet peeves'.

Chow for now ;-)

RESTAURANT: 10/09 IN BEDFORD, PENNSYLVANIA

You need to go to Bedford Pennsylvania and you need to go 10/09 Kitchen Restaurant.

Seriously - make up a reason if you have to, but get to Bedford PA, and go to 10/09 restaurant. Nick Letzo brings a wealth of experience to his new gig and makes winner after winner. And Sara - managing front of house - what can I say? I teased her that she could not have come out of financial management - she has far too much warmth and personality. (apologies to anyone I know in finance) :-) We were staying at Bedford Springs Resort and decided to slip into town for dinner one night. I am so glad we did. Thoroughly impressed by flatbread and caprese salad appetizers, but after one bite of the Bolognese sauce in my main course, we made a reservation for the next night too.

Each night resulted in a fabulous meal. On night #2, the kitchen produced what might have been the most tender new york striploin I have ever eaten. The duo of soups were dueling tomatoes: the regular tomato basil soup from the menu and gazpacho. Blew me away when I heard someone had asked for the gazpacho to be warmed. But since one of my first blogs told people to stop apologizing for what they like, so I'll just smile to myself about it.

Be forewarned, they do not have a license to serve alcohol so it's BYOB. And coming from a place where the corkage fee to bring your own is about $25, I was stunned when they informed me of the $2 charge per person for stemware and labour. Splurge on a bottle. The food will hold its own.

in 4 words: NOT TO BE MISSED

Chow for now ;-)

#10/09 #gourmetbedford

Michelin stars - I am beginning to think they are well earned

Michelin Stars. The oscars, tonys, emmys, grammys, junos of the restaurant world. I have been very fortunate to have been on a culinary journey that has taken me to the world of michelin stars.

I have yet to be at a starred restaurant that has not illustrated why they achieved such a lofty status.

They don't give their meals away.

But the rigor applied to the awards seems to be appropriate.

Still have to get to a three-star. That's what lottery win dreams are for.

But the one and two star restaurants I have been lucky enough to attend have not disappointed. A 2012 trip to France included two separate trips to 2-star restaurants. Each re-set the bar for most impressive (and expensive) meal I have ever had. A Dublin-based one star was also impressive in 2010.

After my recent posting hiatus, I hope to share these experiences. Bottom line is that there appears to be some truth in the adage that you get what you pay for.

Chow for now ;-)

RESTAURANT: BIFF'S BISTRO, Toronto

We went for our anniversary back in July and this place swept us back to our time in Paris last October.

The food was fabulous, but the service was even better: some of the best I have ever experienced. Our server had mastered the art of listening. In response to it being our anniversary, they brought us a couple glasses of sparkling wine to start.

I was considering a few things, but eventually went with an amazing cassoulet. With that as the main, I steered away from the steak tartare as a starter, but not without arduous contemplation. Waitress picked up on this, so between apps and main, she brought us each a generous tasting of the tartare. Just because.

This was the first night of Summerlicious, so there were a number of larger, younger parties. Before the mains arrived, manager explained that there would be these larger parties and asked if we wanted to move to a quieter table. We declined - the room had a really good energy.

Also brought us dessert wine at the end. First time there. It won't be the last.

Chow for now ;-)

When does a contract become a contract?

I have a degree in Economics. I have taken Business Law courses during grad school. I understand supply and demand, but I also understand short term pain for long-term gain.

What is he talking about you ask?

I like golf. I play it badly, usually with good people. I like to watch the pro's play it well. So much so that I bought tickets for next year's PGA Championship in Louisville, Kentucky.

Next order of business was where to stay. Used TripAdvisor to find a well reviewed B&B. Made a three night reservation last evening. Reservation was accepted and deposit taken - all automated.

In the morning, I get an email from the B&B saying that a four night stay is required during the PGA so my reservation has been cancelled. I can re-book for a 4 night stay if I wish. As if by magic, when I look into a 4 night stay, the price has gone up by 150%. That's not a typo. 150%.

They doubled the price then added another half of the original price for good measure. I can stay there, but instead of $510 for three nights, I can shell out $1700 for four nights.

I might have a good legal argument for acceptance and offer and all that good contract mumbo-jumbo, but I have absolutely no interest in staying at the Dupont Mansion B&B in Louisville. EVER!

CULINARY EXPERIENCE - Farm to Table package at the Fairmont Manoir Richelieu

Earlier this week, as part of the final leg of a two week vacation, we had what can only be described as a culinary experience.

We spent three nights at the Fairmont Manoir Richelieu in the Charlevoix region of Quebec. As part of that stay we purchased the “Farm to Table” package. The key aspect of the package is time spent with the property’s Executive Chef – Patrick Turcot.

On Wednesday morning at 8:30 a.m., Patrick met me and my far better half at the front entrance of the hotel. He then took us on a 2 and a half hour driving tour of the Charlevoix region. One aspect of the tour was stops at three of the hotel’s local providers – a duck farm, and emu farm and a fromagerie (a French cheese maker). Patrick deliberately took the longer route to the first provider to share vistas of the St. Lawrence River, as well as to given himself more time o talk about the many local providers they try to use at the hotel.

Probably just as important, the driving time gave Patrick the time to share his love of the region, his passion for cooking and some insights into his Fairmont career which has included time in Quebec City, Edmonton, Jasper and Scottsdale among others. He talked to us about our cooking and ‘go to’ recipes and made it seem like we were talking to an old friend.

When we returned to the hotel we went to his office. We had a tour of the main kitchen – a kitchen that helps prepare food for four different restaurants, a gourmet ‘food train’, and can handle banquets for more than 1,000 people. In his office, we made lunch together. Okay – he cooked, but I did get to prep some of the emu for the emu tartare. Yes, emu tartare.

It was basically a private cooking lesson with insights into how to take recipes and make them your own. Because of the lunch lesson, I can now say that I know how to de-vein fois gras, I can prepare emu tartare, I know that a vanilla bean, bread crumb crusted pork tenderloin sounds odd but tastes amazing, and I know that I will leave the preparation of Sabayon to my better half. ;-)

This is an investment perfectly suited for a foodie. And investment is a purposely chosen word. I have a greater appreciation for local product sourcing and cooking insights that I would never have if I had not spent the day with Patrick Turcot.

On my trip, I had some absolutely fabulous meals, I saw breathtaking vistas, I played a couple very nice golf courses -- but this experience was easily the highlight of the trip. Manoir Richelieu lives up to the Fairmont standards of excellence, and the Farm to Table offering takes it to a new level.

TABLE 52 Chicago - a second chance to make a first impression

Table 52 has been a place I have wanted to try for a very specific reason. Art Smith's restaurant was featured a while back on 'Best Thing I Ever Ate'. The category was fried food, and Art's fried chicken was the favorite thing of one of the celebrity chef commentators.

One catch. They only make it on Sundays. My weekends visiting in Chicago usually don't keep me there for Sunday dinner.

Went for Victoria Day. Stayed until Monday and reserved a table on Sunday a couple months in advance. Tried 4 months in advance and they sort of laughed at me. A bit eager.

So our dinner companions order martini's to start. They are delivered and have an odd taste - we think chocolate. Shaker not thoroughly cleaned. So the first things these guys bring to our table is not impressive. What do they do? No questions, they take them away and bring two comp martinis - and these are the 3 ounce variety. They get it. They apologize for their errors in tangible ways. They make the diner basically forget there was any issue at all.

And by the way - the chicken was amazing. 4 people in our party - all had fried chicken. Table of 6 beside us, 4 of 6 had the same thing. Another table of 5 - 4 of 5 had chicken.

Funnily enough, same guy who got the tainted martin had one extra large piece of chicken, which, when he cut into it, had a bit of blood at the bone. It was taken away immediately, replaced very quickly and - you guessed it - comped.

This is a place that understands they are creating an experience for the diner. I will be back - they have earned my business.

Chow for now ;-)

Restaurant - Five Doors North - Toronto

Through a weird series of influences, ended up at a Yonge Eglinton staple called five doors north. Yonge and Redpath

Great evening with family and friends.

One of my better half's brothers has been frequently, and I'm glad he persisted in getting our group of 8 there for a Saturday evening meal.

To say they were accommodating and flexible would be an understatement.

Developed an appetizer platter for us. Gnocchi was fabulous. Rissoto was great although why anyone would make a roasted cauliflower rissotto over a mushroom risotto is beyond me. But it was really good.

I asked what the absolute best dish was and was told ribs. So I ordered rib eye which was perfectly prepared. Tasted a rib from table neighour - it was great.

In a world of mediocre offerings, this place rises above the pedestrian. Highly recommended

Chow for now ;-)

RESTAURANT - Memphis Fire Company BBQ - Winona

BBQ. Not the outdoor appliance. The art. The philosophy. The religion.

They are doing it right at a little hole in the wall place just east of Hamilton called Winona. Originally, Winona's claim to fame was ED Smith and the Winona Peach Festival. It may now be Memphis Fire Company.

One of the top rated restaurants on YELP. Featured on 'You Gotta Eat Here'.

Almost a hybrid of Carolina and Kansas City BBQ styles. If I were Randy Jackson, I would say that the pulled pork is the bomb. Beans are smoked. Brisket rocks. Ribs - you can't reserve a table but you can reserve a rack of ribs. What does that tell you?

Be prepared to wait. Be prepard to enjoy.

Chow for now ;-)

Time to catch up

I don't begin to believe that people hang on my every word, but I do think I have an advanced palate, average to above average cooking skills and a penchant for dining at some kick ass places.

My catholic upbringing forces me to apologize for my absence for the blogosphere.

These are the types of things I like to blame on my wife's husband (me). It's amazing how many people take a while to figure that one out. :-)

So regardless of the very real and understandable reasons for my blog silence, I am back and have a truck load of experiences to share.

Let's start with an easy one

J. Lohr Riverstone Chardonnay

18.95 at LCBO (Ontario monopoly for non-Ontario readers)

Good enough for Mark McEwan's wine list at North 44

My better half is convinced that McManis is her "house chard" of choice but Lohr never disappoints. I keep threateneing to do a blind chard tasting to pick out true "house chard". This one would be in the mix

Nice to be back

Cheers!!

FOOD: Kicked-up Comfort Food - Bananas Foster Bread Pudding

Bread Pudding. Truly a comfort food from my youth. I have enjoyed watching how a dessert with such humble roots has been embraced and gentrified to the point where it has become a standard offering at higher-end restaurants.

By humble roots I mean that this is basically stale-ish white bread, eggs, milk, cinnamon and raisins. Cost effective, but oh so good.

One of my favorite new versions of bread pudding incorporates the flavors of one of my favorite desserts - Bananas Foster. This was an RSVP recipe in Bon Appetit so it is not on the epicurious website so I have inserted it below.

I have made this for both a dinner dessert and a brunch dessert offering - always to requests for second helpings, and the recipe. Even though Mardi Gras has passed for another year, make this and transport yourself to the French Quarter in "Nawlins"

Chow for now ;-)

BANANAS FOSTER BREAD PUDDING WITH VANILLA RUM SAUCE

10 TO 12 SERVINGS

SOURCE: Bacco Restaurant, New Orleans

Bon Appetit, November 1999 – RSVP

6 large eggs

2 cups whipping cream

¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

¼ cup banana liqueur

3 ripe bananas, peeled

1 16-ounce loaf day-old French bread, crusts trimmed, cut into ½ inch thick slices

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

Vanilla Rum Sauce (recipe follows)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Whisk eggs, cream, ¾ cups sugar and banana liqueur in large bowl. Set custard mixture aside.

Puree bananas in processor.

Layer half of French bread slices in bottom of 13x9x2 inch glass baking dish.

Pour half of custard mixture evenly over French bread slices.

Spread banana puree over custard.

Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon sugar and 1 teaspoon cinnamon.

Layer remaining bread over banana puree.

Pour remaining custard mixture over bread slices.

Sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon sugar and 1 teaspoon cinnamon.

Bake bread pudding until puffed and golden and set in centre, about 50 minutes. Cool 10 minutes and serve with Vanilla Rum Sauce.

VANILLA RUM SAUCE

Makes about 2½ cups

5 large egg yolks

½ cup sugar

1 cup milk (do not use low-fat or non-fat)

¾ cup whipping cream

1 vanilla bean, split

3 tablespoons dark rum

Whisk yolks and sugar in medium bowl to blend.

Combine milk and cream in heavy medium saucepan. Scrape in seeds from vanilla bean. Add bean.

Bring mixture to a simmer.

Gradually whisk hot cream mixture into egg yolk mixture.

Return mixture to saucepan.

Stir constantly until mixture thickens and leaves path when finger is drawn across back of spoon, about 6 minutes. DO NOT BOIL.

Strain sauce into bowl and discard vanilla bean.

Refrigerate sauce until cold, about three hours.

Stir in rum.

Sauce can be prepared one day ahead. Cover and keep refrigerated.

Recipe - Caramel Budino with Salted Caramel Sauce

There is something about using a foreign language that makes food taste better. I mean think about it. Cassoulet is basically french for pork and beans - only better.

Well now I have a new example - Budino. It's italian for pudding - but this 'pudding' is one of the best desserts I had in a while.

http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Caramel-Budino-with-Salted-Caramel-Sauce-367132

Never a surprise here - it's from Bon Appetit and it's smoooooooth and it's gooooooood. If you like caramel - and who doesn't - you gotta try this. It is labour intensive - any time a candy thermometer comes into play you know you're going to paying attention. But the fruits of the labour are stunning. for this dinner party I was assigned the main and my far better half proved yet again why she is usually in charge of the desserts.

This recipe is from the Bon Appetit restaurant issue (September '11) and the Philadelphia-based chef who contributed the recipe serves it in small mason jars - great presentation idea as you can see above. The best part was that it was a new recipe for us - so when we were getting ready to serve it Friday evening, we had to taste test one on Friday morning in case there was an emergency trip needed to the local bakery. No such trip was needed.

Chocolate wafer crumb crust, smooth caramel pudding and a decadent salted caramel sauce on top. For those of the right vintage - this is so good you could get Bill Cosby to be your spokesperson.

Chow for now ;-)

DESSERT: Boiled Icing Cake at The Big Stop in Aulac, New Brunswick

This item should have been blogged long ago. I apologize for the oversight. This is decadence in the extreme. This two-layer cake with light boiled icing is amazing. It's an east cost thing and "The Big Stop" in Aulac has perfected it. Pieces of this cake are not for the faint of heart; they are a meal unto themselves.

Where the hell is Aulac you ask? It's just east of Sackville at the last exit in NB before you get to Nova Scotia. It's where you turn north to head to the Confederation Bridge if you're going to PEI.

I've brought whole cakes home to Ontario in my carry-on luggage and had the security staff at the Moncton Airport ask me if the cake is from the Aulac, Big Stop. They jokingly threaten to "have to" confiscate the cake. I have a colleague who once bought a piece and it lasted two days for her husband, two kids and herself. I am now officially not allowed to return from Sackville unless I return with a piece of this cake. I always think the carry-on scanner is going to ask why there is empty tupperware in my carry-on whenever I head east.

Try this cake - you will not be disappointed.

Chow for now ;-)

RESTAURANT: Ice water in lap revisited

About 10 days ago, I posted about getting an ice water in my lap and nothing being done about it beyond an apology from the server.

I indicated in the posting that I had sent an email to the owner but had kept my name and the server's name out of the email. The aftermath deserves a post as well.

I emailed the owner at about 11:00 p.m. He wrote back by 10:00 a.m. the next morning - thanked me for my loyalty and for bringing the situation to his attention. The incident had not been handled in the manner he expects from his staff. He was going to use it as a teachable moment for his staff before service that evening. He ended by asking me to identify myself next time I was in.

The next time was this past Saturday. I had no intention of introducing myself until after we had paid the bill. This was not about getting something for free. Halfway through my entree, another staff member who has served us on quite a few occasions came over and said, "by the way, your entree is on us tonight".

She had been working on the night of the spill and as soon as the owner reminded staff about his expected approach to these things, she knew he was talking about me. So when we arrived Saturday, she told the owner that I was the author of the previous week's email.

That's the type of service and attention to detail I am used to from the restaurant. The owner and I had a good chat and a couple laughs about the whole situation. He knows that some of the staff truly learned a lesson about nurturing the relationship with the client through each interaction.

I ended by telling Doug that the only thing that might make me stop coming to the restaurant was if he took the braised-beef ravioli off the menu. If you read most of my posts, you'll likely now know the restaurant because I have posted about the ravioli in the past. Given how things evolved, I don't mind sharing that it's Cavallo Nero in Ancaster and they continue to impress.

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