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Get Fired Up For BBQ Season A gourmet meal, prepared under a blue sky in the backyard or deck, is still an affordable luxury.

Here is the link to the column as it appears in......

Get fired up for BBQ season

The days are getting longer, though the weather has not been particularly spring-like where I live. As I write this column, it is 45 degrees outside!

If you are like me, you are probably looking forward to kicking off BBQ season. For many, it has been delayed, since Mother Nature has not been cooperating.

May is National BBQ Month, plus Memorial Day weekend marked the beginning of grilling season, the unofficial start of summer.  And that means it’s time to get fired up for the smoky flavor of food cooked outdoors. There are those who take it up a notch by participating in or attending BBQ competitions. The style and flavor of BBQ is different, depending upon which region of the country you’re in.

A gourmet meal, prepared under a blue sky in the backyard or deck, is still an affordable luxury. It is a time of year that many of us, especially in the Northeast, take to our backyards, patios and decks, lighting up the grill, so we can enjoy the smoky flavor of food, that joyous taste of summer.

Grilling is a popular pastime that brings family and friends together. According to the Hearth, Patio & Barbecue Association, 75% of U.S. adults own a grill or smoker. The top reasons for cooking out?  Seventy-one percent say it’s to improve flavor, 54% say it’s for personal enjoyment, and 42% do it to entertain family and friends.

While barbecuing various meats dominates, chefs and home cooks are extending grilling, barbecuing, and smoking to seafood, vegetables, fruits, and desserts, plus even pizza, and mac and cheese. Perhaps you’ve noticed the ever-increasing variety of sauces, marinades, and rubs, often with global influences. And let’s not forget those accompaniments we crave: potato and pasta salad, coleslaw, baked beans, cornbread, and juicy watermelon.

A favorite resource for recipes is http://join.ckbk.com/ckbk?code=BBQ25. That’s where I check out recipes from hundreds of cookbooks. These are a few that I’ll be cooking this year, once the weather is more seasonable.

For the recipe for the Grilled Stuffed French toast, visit https://stephenfries.com/recipes.

Grilled Bacon-Wrapped Asparagus

Recipe from “Food by Fire: Grilling and BBQ” by Derek Wolf of Over the Fire Cooking, Harvard Common Press (2021)

The headnote says: “If you have never had bacon-wrapped asparagus, you have not lived! No, seriously. This recipe takes those two great ingredients and layers on more flavor with lemon and Parmesan. Being wrapped in bacon, this dish was quickly added to our family fire-cooking dinners. Use asparagus on the thicker side so it holds up well once the bacon is wrapped around it and so you have room to skewer it. Also, watch for flare-ups to avoid burnt bacon. It is easy to burn bacon over an open flame, so keep a close eye.”

Prep time: 20 minutes

Cook time: 15 minutes

Ingredients:

1 bunch (12 or 16 spears) large asparagus, woody ends trimmed

8 ounces thin-sliced cured bacon

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

Directions:

Arrange the asparagus into groups of 3 or 4 spears similar in size. Carefully wrap 1 bacon slice around the center of each asparagus bundle, skewering a toothpick at an angle through the loose end of the bacon and through the bundle so the toothpick emerges on the other side. Make sure your toothpick secures the bacon to the bundle, then set aside.

Preheat your fire using the instructions for grilling, bringing it to a medium-high temperature (about 375 degrees). Thoroughly clean your grill grate before cooking.

Once the coals are ready, place the asparagus bundles on the grill. Cook for about 12 minutes, rotating to all sides every 2 to 3 minutes to crisp the bacon all over. Move the bacon-wrapped asparagus away from the flame if it begins to flare. Once the bacon is crispy and the asparagus is soft, pull it off the fire and let rest for 2 minutes to cool.

In a small bowl, stir together the melted butter, Parmesan, lemon juice, lemon zest, and red pepper flakes. Using a basting brush, glaze the top of the bacon-wrapped asparagus with the butter sauce, or serve the sauce on the side for dipping.

Grilled Buffalo Chicken Kebabs

Recipe from “Once Upon a Chef, the Cookbook: 100 Tested, Perfected, and Family-Approved Recipes” by Jennifer Segal, Chronicle Books (2018)

Serve with Basmati Cilantro Rice Pilaf (recipe at https://stephenfries.com/recipes) and a green salad with ranch or blue cheese dressing.

The headnote says: “Both of my parents are from Buffalo, N.Y., so I guess you could say I have Buffalo in my blood. Growing up, my family spent every August in a rented house on Lake Erie — visiting grandparents, aunts, uncles, and cousins, and getting our summertime fill of Buffalo’s finest: Anchor Bar chicken wings, beef on weck, and Sahlen’s hot dogs. This recipe is an ode to buffalo wings. The sauce is relatively mild and family-friendly (and, by the way, kids do love this) but feel free to pump up the heat with more hot sauce or red pepper flakes if you like it spicy.”

Ingredients:

For the chicken:

¼ cup vegetable oil

¼ cup cayenne pepper sauce, such as Frank’s RedHot Original (not the Buffalo flavor)

4 garlic cloves, minced

1½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon chili powder

1 teaspoon sugar

¾ teaspoon onion powder

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

3 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, trimmed and cut into 1½- to 2-inch  chunks

For the Buffalo sauce:

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1½ tablespoons cayenne pepper sauce, such as Frank’s RedHot Original

¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional)

Directions:

To make the chicken: In a large bowl, whisk together all of the ingredients except for the chicken. Add the chicken and stir until evenly coated. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and marinate in the refrigerator for 6 to 10 hours (do not marinate longer, as the vinegar in the hot sauce can change the texture of the meat).Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil for easy cleanup. Thread the chicken onto metal skewers (you’ll need 4 to 6, depending on the size), folding if the pieces are long and thin, and place on the prepared baking sheet.

Preheat the grill to medium-high heat and oil the grates. Grill the chicken, covered, turning the skewers occasionally, until golden brown and cooked through, about 15 minutes. (Keep an eye on them — if they are browning too quickly, turn the heat down.) Transfer the skewers to a platter.

To make the sauce: Combine the melted butter, hot sauce, and red pepper flakes (if using) in a small bowl and whisk until emulsified. It will look greasy at first, but the action of the whisk should thicken the mixture into a smooth orange-colored sauce. Taste and add more hot sauce, if desired. Spoon the sauce over the kebabs or serve on the side.

Allow at least 6 hours for the chicken to marinate.

Don’t be tempted to use boneless, skinless chicken breasts in place of the chicken thighs. There’s a lot of vinegar in Frank’s hot sauce, and the marinade will turn lean chicken breasts to shoe leather before they even hit the grill.

Trim the fat from slippery chicken thighs with kitchen shears; it’s easier than using a knife.

Honey-Mustard Grilled Ribeye Steaks

Recipe from “The Ultimate Guide to Grilling” by Rick Browne, Skyhorse Publishing (2011)

Ingredients:

1 cup yellow mustard

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

2 tablespoons crushed rosemary leaves

2 tablespoons crushed thyme

4 tablespoons honey

¼ cup cider vinegar

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

1 cup water

½ teaspoon Louisiana hot sauce

¼ teaspoon coarse black pepper

4 1-inch thick ribeye steaks

4 pats butter

Directions:

Mix first 10 ingredients well in large bowl, reserve ½ resulting liquid and put in small bowl, pour remainder of the liquid over ribeye steaks in a 10-by-12-inch flat Pyrex dish and marinate for 30 minutes, turning the steaks over several times. Poke steaks several times with fork so the marinade gets into the center of the meat.

Put reserved marinade in small saucepan and boil for 10 minutes, then you can safely use it to brush on steaks.

Turn steaks with tongs, not a fork, and cook on hot grill (500 degrees to 600 degrees or higher if using mesquite) or very hot coals for 5-6 minutes a side for medium rare. Brush generously with reserved, boiled marinade once or twice per side.

Drizzle RB’s BBQ Steak sauce on plate, as directed below, place small pat of butter on top of each steak and serve.

RB’s BBQ Steak Sauce

Ingredients:

1 cup Cattleman’s barbecue sauce

3 tablespoons maple syrup

1 teaspoon summer savory

½ teaspoons cayenne pepper

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 tablespoon lime juice

Directions:

Mix in large bowl and put in plastic squeeze bottle and drizzle over plates before you put steaks on plates. Serve warm in gravy boat or sauce dish along with steaks.

Bymark Hamburger Sirloin Burger With Porcini Mushrooms, Brie de Meaux and Truffle Aioli

Recipe from “Burgers: From Barbecue Ranch Burger to Miso Salmon Burger” by Paul Gayler, Quarto (2014)

The headnote says: “This wonderful recipe comes courtesy of top Canadian chef Mark McEwan, of Toronto’s trendy North 44 Restaurant. The melting Brie and fat juicy porcini mushrooms work brilliantly together while the truffle aioli adds a touch of elegance.”

Ingredients:

1 ¾ pounds trimmed beef striploin, hand chopped

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Olive oil for cooking

4 fresh porcini mushrooms, sliced 1/3 inch thick

4 slices Brie de Meaux cheese

Directions:

Place the chopped striploin in a bowl, season liberally with salt and pepper. Form into 1-inch-thick patties, then brush lightly with olive oil. Heat a chargrill or pan grill until very hot, add the burgers and grill until desired doneness (about 4 minutes per side for rare), remove.

Brush the sliced porcini mushrooms with the olive oil and grill until tender, season with salt and pepper.Finally, grill the burger rolls until golden. Top each burger with a slice of Brie de Meaux cheese.

Place the mushrooms on each burger roll base, then top with the burger and cheese slice. Finally spoon over a little truffle aioli, close the burger with its lid and serve.

To serve: 4 burger rolls, split, Truffle aioli

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

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A tasty morsel adds to a variety of recipes Chocolate chips, which transformed baking, can trace their history to 1938.

Here is the link to one of the online versions of the column

A tasty morsel adds to a variety of recipes

Dark Chocolate and Brie Palmiers: This recipe uses the same classic technique the chef learned as a child, updated with a sophisticated dark chocolate and brie twist for the modern home cook. (Courtesy of Hotel Forty Five)

With National Chocolate Chip Day being celebrated on May 15, I thought I would challenge a chef, pastry chef, barista, and mixologist to create a recipe using this beloved ingredient.

It transformed baking, and is an ingredient found in many recipes: muffins, ice cream, hot chocolate, pancakes, and often a secret ingredient in savory dishes, too, melted into sauces and marinades. Used in mole, a Mexican classic, chocolate rounds out the heat.  I enjoy a handful or two just as they are. Don’t you?

The history of the chocolate chip (aka chocolate morsel) coincided with the invention of the chocolate chip cookie in 1938. That was when Ruth Wakefield, proprietor of the Toll House Inn, located in Whitman, Mass., was preparing a traditional colonial recipe, Butter Drop Do Cookies. She experimented by taking a bar of Nestle semisweet chocolate and chopped it into small pieces (morsels). Wakefield put them in the dough thinking they would melt. They didn’t, retaining their shape, but softened to a smooth and creamy consistency.

These treats became the inn’s signature treat, plus the recipe appeared in newspapers in Boston and other New England areas. Nestle was thrilled because the sale of their chocolate bars hit the roof. They made a deal with Wakefield offering her a lifetime supply of chocolate if they could publish the recipe on the semisweet chocolate bars.

An innovative idea from Nestle was to package the bars with a chopper to make it easier for the baker. In 1940, Nestle introduced the well-known Toll House Morsels, the teardrop-shaped chips … no more need for chopping!

See how the chocolate chip inspired these culinarians beyond the cookie.

The Pastry Chef’s Recipe: Dark Chocolate and Brie Palmiers

Recipe by McArthur Johnson, Sous Chef, Hotel Forty Five, Macon, Ga., https://www.hotelfortyfive.com

Chef’s bio: Inspired by the generational cooking of my parents and grandmother, I developed an early passion for the soul of ingredients. My craft elevates deep-rooted Southern flavors through global techniques, creating sophisticated dishes designed to bring a smile to every face. Beyond cooking, I am dedicated to building strong, cohesive teams, believing that the best culinary experiences are rooted in leadership and collaboration. While my roots are deep, my journey has only just begun.

When asked for his inspiration in creating this recipe, he said: “I remember pulling a stepstool up to my grandmother’s flour-dusted counter, watching her transform simple dough into golden, flaky treasures. Even though I wasn’t a fan of chocolate, I was her official assistant, helping her roll the pastry and line the baking sheets with precision. Those mornings are my earliest memories of baking, and these cookies remained a family favorite at every gathering we held. This recipe is a tribute to those moments. It’s the same classic technique I learned as a child, updated with a sophisticated dark chocolate and brie twist for the modern home cook.

Ingredients:

¼ cup granulated sugar

1 sheet (about 9 ounces/ 250g) puff pastry, pre-rolled and chilled.

½ cup dark chocolate or chocolate chips, finely grated.

½ cup of firm brie, chilled (remove the rind if you want a smoother melt)

½ teaspoon flaky sea salt

Directions:

Sprinkle half of the sugar onto a clean work surface. Unroll the cold puff pastry directly onto the sugar. Sprinkle the remaining sugar over the top of the pastry and lightly press it in with a rolling pin.

Evenly scatter the grated chocolate and the tiny bits of brie across the entire surface of the pastry. Sprinkle the flaky salt over the top.

Imagine a line down the center of the rectangle. Fold the left side halfway to the center, then the right side halfway to the center. Fold them again so the two folded edges meet in the middle. Then fold one half over the other like closing a book. You should have a long, thin log with many layers.

Use a sharp knife to cut the log into ½ inch thick slices.

Place the slices on a lined baking sheet, leaving at least 2 inches between them (they expand sideways).

Bake at 400 degrees for 12–15 minutes.

Halfway through, carefully flip them over with a spatula to ensure the sugar caramelizes evenly on both sides.

The Mixologist’s Recipe: Midnight Indulgence

Recipe by Korinne Dodson, Fenway Hotel, Dunedin, Fla., https://www.fenwayhotel.com

When asked for her inspiration for this recipe, she said: “I wanted to create something that felt like the kind of drink you reach for when the night starts to slow down, when you are not in a rush and can sit and enjoy it. At Fenway, those late evening moments have a certain energy to them, a little softer, a little more relaxed, and that is what I had in mind while building this. The espresso gives it that familiar depth, while the vanilla vodka and layers of chocolate bring in a smooth, almost comforting sweetness. The house-made chocolate sauce, made with chocolate chips, adds a little texture and makes it feel a bit more indulgent. It is meant to sit somewhere between a cocktail and a dessert, something you can sip slowly and really enjoy from start to finish.”

Ingredients:

1 ounce espresso

2 ounces Stoli vanilla vodka

½ ounce Kahlua

½ ounce Chocolate Baileys

House-made chocolate sauce (or store bought)

Ice

Chocolate chips

Directions:

Shake espresso, vodka, Kahlua and Baileys in a cocktail shaker. Drizzle a Collins glass with chocolate sauce/syrup, Fill Collins glass with ice. Strain cocktail over the ice. Top with chocolate chips.

The Barista’s Recipe: Chocolate Chip Cookie Latte

Recipe by Jazie Luangsombath, Food and Beverage Manager, Epicurean Atlanta, https://www.epicureanhotelatlanta.com

“This is a cozy, chocolate chip cookie-inspired oat milk latte made with espresso, maple syrup, and chocolate notes, finished with a warm brown butter flavor,” Luangsombath said. “This drink embodies a chocolate chip cookie — smooth, slightly nutty, and comforting — but coffee notes take it to the next level.

“The inspiration behind this came from a personal moment. I was at my nephew’s house one afternoon while he was baking chocolate chip cookies. I had an oat milk latte in hand, and after taking a bite of a warm cookie followed by a sip of coffee, it just clicked. I added a touch of maple syrup and started thinking about how to recreate that slightly toasted, nutty flavor you get from the edges of a chocolate chip cookie — the best part. After a bit of experimenting, this drink came together and really captured that feeling.

Ingredients:

1 ounce brown butter, melted (Recipe: bit.ly/42jWiqJ)

2 tablespoons pure maple syrup

1–2 ounces brewed espresso

1 cup oat milk

Homemade chocolate chip ganache (recipe below)

Whipped cream

Garnish: pinch of ground cinnamon and chocolate chip cookies

Directions:

Prep the glass (to get the signature drip effect): Dip the rim of the glass into chocolate chip ganache. Let the ganache drip naturally down the inside to create the visual effect. Set aside briefly to allow it to set slightly.

Build the base: Add the melted brown butter (warm, not hot) directly into the glass. Add the pure maple syrup. Pour the brewed espresso into the glass. Stir thoroughly to combine the brown butter, maple syrup and espresso (this is key for consistency).

Fill glass with ice and pour in oat milk. Top with whipped cream and sprinkle with cinnamon. Garnish with chocolate chip cookies.

Chocolate Chip Ganache

Ingredients:

8 ounces of high-quality chocolate chips

1 cup of heavy cream

Directions:

Heat heavy cream in a saucepan until it just begins to simmer. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate chips and let it sit for 2-3 minutes. Stir the mixture gently until the chocolate is fully melted and smooth. Add a pinch of salt. Allow the ganache to cool slightly before using it as a sauce or glaze.

The Chef’s Recipe: Braised Lamb Shank With Chocolate Mole and Jalapeno Corn Relish

Recipe by Executive Chef Jay Swift, Triliith Guesthouse, Fayetteville, Ga., https://www.trilithguesthouse.com

Chef’s bio: Chef Jay Swift is an award-winning chef and restaurateur with three decades of experiences. He is known for his ingredient-driven philosophy, and disciplined execution. A Baltimore native, he graduated first in his class from the American Culinary Federation Apprenticeship Program. His early career included kitchens in Washington, D.C., Boston, New York, and Baltimore before relocating to Atlanta. At Trilith Guesthouse, Swift guides menu development, mentors culinary teams and shapes the continued evolution of the hotel’s dining experiences.

For the sauce (mole):

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

3 garlic cloves, minced

1 chipotle pepper with 1 teaspoon adobo sauce (from can), chopped

1 cup raisins

2 cups canned tomatoes, chopped

3 tablespoons smooth peanut butter or tahini paste

2 cups chicken broth

2 tablespoons ancho chili powder

2 tablespoons arbol chili powder

2 pasilla chili powder

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1½ ounces unsweetened chocolate (or 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder)

Salt to taste

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Directions:

In a medium pot over medium heat, add olive oil, chopped onion, and garlic. Cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the chopped chipotle pepper, adobo sauce, raisins, and tomatoes. Bring to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Pour the mixture into a blender. Add peanut butter or tahini paste, chicken broth, chili powders, and cinnamon. Puree until smooth. Return the blended sauce to the pot over medium heat.

Simmer sauce for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add in the unsweetened chocolate and stir until melted. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

For the lamb:

Ingredients:

2 lamb shanks

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 ribs celery, chopped

1 large onion, chopped

1 large carrot, chopped

2 quarts chicken or beef broth (or enough to cover)

6 cloves garlic, minced

2 bay leaves

Directions:

Sear the lamb in a hot braising pan with olive oil until brown on all sides. Caramelize the vegetables in the same pan. Cover with broth, add garlic and bay leaves. Bring to simmer. Cover and place in oven at 300 degrees for about 90 minutes, or until meat is fork tender. Remove lamb from pan and set aside. Strain braising liquid and allow to reduce by half.

Add mole to the braising liquid and bring to a simmer. Reduce until thick. Return lamb the pot. Bring to a simmer. Transfer mole to a serving dish and garnish with jalapeno corn relish or peanuts, sesame seeds, orange zest, fresh cilantro, lime wedges, Jalapeno Corn Relish.

Ingredients:

1 cup roasted yellow corn kernels

2 jalapenos, diced

½ red onion, diced

1 sweet red pepper, diced

¼ cup cilantro, chopped

Juice from 2 limes

Directions:

Mix all the relish ingredients. Garnish with corn relish, unsweetened chocolate chips, sesame seeds, charred lime halves and sprigs of cilantro. Serves 2

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

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Cinco de Mayo birthday celebrations are never ordinary The holiday celebrates culture, history, perseverance and gathering with friends, and birthdays in a similar way do the same.

Coctel De Camaron, or Shrimp Cocktail: “The Shrimp Cocktail holds a special place in the hearts of seafood enthusiasts in Mexico.” (Mely Martinez)

No matter where I am, when asked for my birth date and I respond, “May 5,” people always reference, Cinco de Mayo. Perhaps this gives me an extra qualification to write about this celebration, LOL!

Sharing this date means my celebrations are never ordinary. I think it is special. Cinco de Mayo celebrates culture, history, perseverance and gathering with friends, and birthdays in a similar way do the same.

Food, clearly plays an important role as well. Often, the Cinco de Mayo menu carries over to my birthday celebration: guacamole, tacos, salsa, and a bright-colored cake taking on the flavors of churros, tequila-lime, or margaritas. What’s better than getting older on this celebratory day?

My cooking is inspired from many sources, with cookbooks being a major one. Weeks before seasonal celebrations and holidays happen, bookstores showcase titles aiming to encourage us to explore creative dishes tied to the upcoming festivities.

This is what happened to me when a display of Mexican cuisine cookbooks was featured in a bookstore. “Mexico In Your Kitchen: Favorite Mexican Recipes That Celebrate Family, Community, Culture, and Tradition,” by Mely Martinez (2024, Rockpoint, $28) is now part of my collection.

Martinez features recipes from all corners of Mexico. She explains Mexican food customs, shares a list of essential ingredients for the pantry, and details the variety of peppers. The recipes can be prepared using kitchen tools you already have, and if you cook Mexican cuisine frequently, Martinez has a list of cookware commonly used in a Mexican kitchen.

“Embrace the tradition of sobremesa — spending quality time together at the table after a meal — creating lasting memories and stronger bonds with your loved ones through the joy of food,” she writes.

She shares a few of her recipes below. For the recipe for Coctel De Camaron (Shrimp Cocktail) visit https://stephenfries.com/recipes.

Enjoy your celebration of Cinco de Mayo … I know I will!

To add fun and a bit of knowledge to your celebration, see how much your guests know about Cinco de Mayo.

1. What does Cinco de Mayo celebrate?

A. Mexico’s Independence Day B. The end of the Mexican-American War C. A Mexican victory over France  D. The founding of Mexico City

2. The celebration commemorates which battle?

A. Battle of Veracruz B. Battle of Puebla C. Battle of Mexico City D. Battle of Juarez

3. In what year did the battle take place?

A. 1776 B. 1810 C. 1862 D. 1910

4. Who led the Mexican forces to victory?

A. Benito Juarez B. Ignacio Zaragoza C. Pancho Villa D. Emiliano Zapata

5. Which country was Mexico fighting against?

A. Spain B. United States C. France D. England

6. Is Cinco de Mayo Mexico’s Independence Day?

A. Yes B. No

7. Where is Cinco de Mayo celebrated more widely today?

A. Only in Mexico B. Most in the United States C. Only in Europe D. Only in South America

8. Which U.S. city is famous for large Cinco de Mayo celebrations?

A. Los Angeles B. Boston C. Seattle D. Albuquerque

9. Mole contains

A. Vanilla B. chocolate C. tequila D. rum

10. What do the colors of the Mexican flag represent?

A. Ocean, sky and sun B. Religion, independence and unity C. Wealth, power and peace D. Fire, water and earth

Answers: 1. C; 2. B; 3. C; 4. B; 5. C; 6. B; 7. B; 8. A ; 9. B; 10. B

(Photo: Mely Martinez)

Cucumber Lime Agua Fresca

The headnote says: “Agua fresca literally translates to fresh water, and this agua fresca takes freshness to the next level. The combination of cucumber and lime makes this one of the most refreshing beverages you can prepare, and the perfect drink for hot summer days. Plus, it looks beautiful when garnished with mint and a fresh slice of cucumber and is ideal for picnics, parties, barbecues, and any summer gathering.”

Prep time: 10 minutes plus 1 hour chilling time

Yield: 16 servings

Ingredients:

1 large English cucumber or 2 common cucumbers (see notes), peeled

½ cup fresh lime juice (4 to 6 limes, depending on their size and juiciness)

2/3 cup sugar

3 cups ice cubes

For garnishing: Lime and/or cucumber slices, 3 small sprigs fresh mint (optional); (see Notes)

Directions:

1. Using a spoon, remove the seeds from the cucumber(s). Chop the cucumbers into chunks and place them into a blender along with the lime juice, sugar, and 3 cups of water. Process for a couple of minutes until a smooth mixture.

2. Pour the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer into a large pitcher, pressing down on the strainer with the back of a spoon to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard the residue in the strainer.

3. Add 3 more cups of water along with the ice cubes to the pitcher, stir, and refrigerate for 1 hour.

4. Pour the agua fresca into glasses, add some lime and/or cucumber slices to the glasses or on the rims, and garnish with a few mint leaves (if using).

Notes:

• Use any type of cucumber available to you, just make sure to remove the seeds or strain the liquid after processing it in the blender.

• I like to garnish this agua fresca with mint sprigs, but some people add mint to the blender in step 1.

 (Photo: Mely Martinez)

Frijoles Puercos

The headnotes says: “A scrumptious and crowd-pleasing dish, frijoles puercos is made with beans, chorizo, and melted cheese. Its name roughly translates to porky beans. This recipe can be used as a side dish or as an appetizer when served with tortilla chips. Frijoles puercos originated in the state of Sinaloa, but it is also popular throughout the neighboring states of Sonora and Chihuahua. In that part of the country, you can find this dish served at barbecues, birthday parties, and weddings. If you want to make it for your next get-together, I recommend serving it alongside a bowl of guacamole, your favorite salsas, and a generous amount of tortilla chips.”

Prep time: 10 minutes

Cook time: 20 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients:

2 cups (12 ounces) cooked or canned pinto beans, plus 1/3 cup of the bean cooking broth or liquid from the can

3 ounces Mexican chorizo, casing removed

3 ounces Muenster or Monterey

Jack, shredded (see notes)

1 tablespoon finely chopped pickled jalapeno peppers

1 tablespoon lard or butter (see notes)

Salt

For serving: Tortilla chips, warm flour tortillas

Directions:

1. Add the beans and bean broth to a blender and process until a smooth paste.

2. Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add the chorizo and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, using a spatula or a wooden spoon to crumble the chorizo into pieces while it is cooking. Stir the chorizo often so that it does not stick to the pan. Allow it to release its fat content.

3. Add the bean paste to the pan with the chorizo. Once the beans start releasing steam, add the cheese and jalapenos and keep stirring until the cheese begins to melt. Add the lard, season with salt, and reduce the heat to low. Keep stirring to prevent the cheese from sticking to the pan. Continue cooking and stirring for 3 minutes.

4. Serve the beans with tortilla chips and tortillas (see notes).

Notes:

• This dish is usually made using a melting cheese called Chihuahua, from the state with the same name, but you can use Muenster or Monterey Jack. In the state of Sonora, some cooks use a mix of American and Chihuahua cheeses.

• Frijoles puercos is traditionally made with lard, but you can use butter, oil, or margarine.

• You can adjust the amounts of cheese and lard to your liking.

• The beans will be very hot when they are done cooking, so you may want to let them cool a bit before eating them.

 (Photo: Mely Martinez)

Ceviche

The headnote says: “This recipe is one of the most popular ways to make ceviche in the Gulf of Mexico. I’ve tried this dish in many different regions of Mexico, and the same basics always apply: fish, onion, tomato, serrano pepper, cilantro, and lime juice. Ceviche can also be made with other seafood, such as shrimp, octopus, crab, clams, or a combination of these. This ceviche can be served as an appetizer or enjoyed as a main meal.”

Prep time: 10 minutes plus 30 minutes marinating time

Yield: 6 servings

Ingredients:

1 pound fish fillets (tilapia, red snapper, or sea bass; see notes), cut into ½-inch cubes

1/3 cup fresh lime juice

Salt

3 large plum tomatoes, finely chopped

2 serrano peppers or 1 large jalapeno, finely chopped

1 medium onion, finely chopped

1 cup finely chopped fresh cilantro

½ teaspoon dried Mexican oregano, crushed

For garnishing and serving:

1 avocado, diced

1/3 cup sliced pimiento-stuffed Spanish olives (optional)

¼ cup olive oil

Saltine crackers or tortilla chips (see notes)

Ketchup (optional; see notes)

Tabasco sauce (optional)

Directions:

1. Place the fish in a glass bowl, coat with the lime juice and salt, cover, and leave to marinate in the refrigerator for at least 20 minutes and up to 2 hours.

2. Drain the marinade from the bowl, leaving just a couple of tablespoons of the liquid to keep the fish moist, then stir in the tomatoes, peppers, onion, cilantro, and oregano. Taste the liquid, then add more salt if needed. Let everything marinate in the refrigerator for another 10 minutes.

3. To serve, fill cocktail glasses or small individual bowls with the ceviche, garnish with the avocado and olives (if using), and drizzle some olive oil over the top. Serve with saltine crackers or tortilla chips and, if desired, ketchup and Tabasco for drizzling.

Notes:

• In addition to the fish mentioned in the ingredients, you can also make this recipe using any other type of fish that has a firm texture.

• You can also serve the ceviche with whole tostadas instead of tortilla chips.

• Some people like to add a bit of ketchup to their ceviche, stirring it in just before garnishing. You can add it to the whole bowl of ceviche or to an individual serving, if you like.

Recipes and photos courtesy of

(2024, Rockpoint, $28)

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

[sfarticles]

Retro cookbooks offer a taste of nostalgia Some gems can be found at seasonal vintage and flea markets.

Remember these recipe pamphlets from years past? The Washburn-Crosby’s Gold Medal cookbook was published in 1910. Just a few from the collection. (Stephen Fries)

As published in Retro cookbooks offer a taste of nostalgia

When spring arrives, many of us rummage through things tucked away, packing up many of those items to be donated to thrift shops or thrown in the trash … aka spring cleaning.

Also, it’s the time of year when seasonal vintage and flea markets suddenly reappear, like colorful blossoms, ready to spring forth — back into coming alive and thriving, once again. I guess spring cleaning for some is necessary to make room for the new finds at these markets.

Because I enjoy the hunt for vintage and heirloom cookbooks and recipe pamphlets, I’m excited to begin another season of scouting out additions to my ever-growing collection. The problem is I don’t dispose of any from my collection to make room for new treasures. The hunt isn’t easy, though. The books and pamphlets aren’t organized, categorized nor neatly stacked. They are in tattered boxes and crates mixed with stacks of all kinds of printed items of various genres. The paper they are printed on is so delicate from age, so I carefully sift through the vendor’s collection.

Some collectors know what they’re looking for. Most often I don’t, however I do enjoy hunting for a surprise. Often, the seller will say, “Take the box for $10!”

These treasures were usually given away by brands of flour, gelatin, kitchen appliances, and various food councils. The single-ingredient pamphlets and cookbooks are among my favorites. They take me back to another place and time, serving up history, nostalgia, and flavor.

Those pamphlets from the early to mid-1900s are retro in design, with the front covers often depicting a well-coiffed woman wearing a dress and a fancy apron while sporting some jewelry, standing by the stove.

Some of those recipes might not be the most appetizing (think gelatin molds encasing vegetables, tuna casserole, American chop suey, and other creations of the era). Not all are unappealing, though. Recently, some of those comfort foods, popular in years past, have made a resurgence, many with a modern twist. I’ve seen modern renditions of the quintessential green bean casserole. There are several recently published cookbooks featuring retro recipes.

The Oxford Dictionary defines a cookbook as a “book containing recipes and other information about the preparation of food.” I find them to be so much more: learning about traditions of different cultures, appreciating food photography and illustrations and reading about recipes prepared across different regions of the U.S. The latter can be found in myriad Junior League, church and other nonprofit organizations’ fundraising cookbooks.

Cookbooks where each page reveals both a recipe and the story behind it are favorites. I read cookbooks like one would read a novel, and I bet I’m not the only one who does. For some, it might be a beautiful coffee table cookbook where not one recipe is made, but the cover’s beautiful mouthwatering image invites one to open it and linger over the gorgeous perfectly styled dishes. Others have a few on display as a prop in their kitchen.

Perhaps some of you would appreciate this quote by comedian Rita Rudner: “I read recipes the same way I read science fiction. I get to the end and say to myself, ‘Well, that’s not going to happen.’”

For whatever reason one buys or collects cookbooks, they are not going away, as some might think. The internet gives access to millions of recipes, but what is missing are the stories and people behind the recipes.

Henry Notaker, a food historian, doesn’t think cookbooks will become a thing of the past. “After all, many of the food blogs, electronic food media and food television shows are now extending their presence with a cookbook,” he said. “And, with self-publishing, it is affordable to publish and preserve family heritage recipes and give copies of the cookbook to family and friends.”

Before sharing some recipes from a few of my vintage recipe pamphlets, see how well you do on this cookbook quiz.

1. Cookbooks have been with us for a very long time. The oldest known cookbook was written on clay tablets and dates from the 18th century BCE. Which culture left it for us?

A. Babylonian B. Roman C. Chinese D. Inca

2. Who was the French “king of chefs and chef of kings” who published his “Guide Culinaire” in 1903, which is still in use today?

A. Frank Beard B. Paul Bocuse C. Wolfgang Puck D. August Escoffier

3. While she was living in France, after working for the OSS during World War II, Julia Child attended which famous cooking school before collaborating with Simone Beck and Louisette Bertholle to create her famous cookbook, “Mastering the Art of French Cooking”?

A. International Culinary Center B. The Cordon Bleu C. French Culinary Institute D. The Culinary Institute of America France Campus

4. When this woman wasn’t touring as part of her and her husband’s rock ‘n’ roll band, she was a cookbook writer and food impresario in her own right. She was an ardent vegetarian, once saying, “If slaughterhouses had glass walls the whole world would be vegetarian.” Who was she?

A. Judy Collins B. Stevie Nicks C. Linda McCartney D. Joan Baez

5 . Whose 1896 “The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book” has stayed in print for over a century, and is often referred to only by the author’s name?

A. Rose Elliott B. Fannie Farmer C. Susie Fishbein D. Richard Kimball

6. Who wrote the popular cookbook, “30 Minute Meals”?

A. Martha Stewart B. Emeril Lagasse C. Bobby Flay D. Rachael Ray

7. Which historical event increased the distribution of recipe pamphlets focused on rationing and substitution?

A. The industrial revolution B. World War II C. The California Gold Rush D. The Civil War

8. Why are church and community cookbooks often grouped with vintage pamphlets by collectors?

A. They were mass produced by corporations B. They share similar formats, local ads, and community-driven C. They are always professionally bound D. They contain no advertisements

9. Which ingredient was not heavily promoted in mid-century pamphlets?

A. Gelatin B. instant puddings C. canned soups D. extra virgin olive oil

10.  This cookbook, by Irma Rombauer and Marion Rombauer Becker, has become so familiar that its title was modified to become the title of a best selling book by Alex Comfort. What is this cookbook’s title?

Answers: B,D,B,C,B,D, B,B, D, “The Joy of Cooking”

A greeting card I once received says, “Get Out Those Cookbooks and Cook Up a Storm.” Check out these recipes from a few of the vintage recipe pamphlets from the collection.

Lemon Delicacy

From “New Ideas for Prize Winning Puddings and Pies” (1952, Penick & Ford, Ltd., Inc./ My-T-Fine)

Makes 6-8 servings

Cook My-T-Fine lemon flavor pie filling for pie filling. While hot, add 1 cup cooked rice. Cool. Whip ½ cup heavy cream until rather stiff; add ¼ cup sugar and a few grains of salt. Fold into lemon-rice mixture. Pile lightly in sherbet glasses. Chill. Garnish with mint and lemon slices.

Corn Cheese Muffins

From “New Recipes for Good Eating (1949 edition, Proctor & Gamble Co./Crisco)

Yields 12 muffins

Ingredients:

1 cup flour, sifted

1 teaspoon salt

3 teaspoons baking powder

3 tablespoons sugar

1 cup yellow cornmeal

¾ cup grated sharp cheddar cheese

1 egg

1 cup milk

2 tablespoons melted Crisco

Directions:

Sift flour, salt, baking powder and sugar into a bowl. Add cornmeal and cheese; mix. Beat egg slightly; combine with milk and melted Crisco. Add liquid mixture to dry ingredients and stir until just mixed. Place in muffin tins which have been rubbed with Crisco. Bake in a moderately hot oven 400 degrees for 25 minutes.

Peach Bavarian

From: “Quick Easy Jell-O Wonder Dishes” (1930, General Food Corp.)

Serves 6

Ingredients:

1 package lemon or orange Jell-O

1 cup boiling water

1 cup peach juice

½ cup cream, whipped cream

1 cup crushed peaches, sweetened and drained

2-3 drops almond extract

Directions:

Dissolve Jell-O in boiling water in a bowl. Add peach juice. Chill until cold and syrupy. Place bowl in a bowl of crushed ice or ice water and whip with rotary beater until fluffy and thick like whipped cream. Fold in the whipped cream, peaches and extract. Turn into molds. Chill until firm.

Cornburgers

From: “Let’s Cook Outdoors” (1959, Tested Recipe Institute, distributed by Sears, Roebuck & Co.)

Makes 5-6 cornburgers

Ingredients:

1 pound ground beef

3 tablespoons pine nuts

Salt to taste

1/3 cup drained canned whole kernel corn

4 teaspoons chili sauce

¼ cup crumbled blue cheese

Directions:

Combine beef, pine nuts and salt in a bowl. Shape meat into 10-12 thin patties; set aside.

Put corn, chili sauce and blue cheese in a small bowl; mix well. Put 1 heaping teaspoon of the corn mixture in the center of each of 5-6 patties. Then, cover with a second patty. Pinch the edges of the meat together to seal in the filling.

Arrange fire for grid barbecuing. Put cornburgers on grid 3 inches above briquets. Barbecue 15-20 minutes or until cornburgers are done as desired; turn once.

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

[sfarticles]

Color all-American Winston-Salem red, white and blue Though traditional Southern cooking might come to mind, the city’s culinary flavor melds its historical influences with chef-driven innovation and international flavors.

As seen in Color all-American Winston-Salem red, white and blue

The Kimpton Cardinal Hotel was previously the headquarters of the R.J. Reynolds Tobacco Co. It is the prototype for New York City’s Empire State Building. (Chris Bartlett)

Editor’s note: Chris Bartlett contributed to this column.

There may be no better lens than Winston-Salem, N.C., for both viewing and experiencing America’s 250th anniversary celebration of the Declaration of Independence. From its earliest establishment and Moravian roots to its innovative spirit of entrepreneurialism and Civil Rights stance, steadfastly demonstrated during the Revolutionary War, Winston-Salem rings true — red, white, and blue.

It’s an all-American city, built by early visionaries who sought to capitalize on their New World surroundings and the opportunities they presented.

Winston-Salem continues to thrive by leaning into those essential roots established by its founders, to reinvent itself for today, tomorrow, and the future. The Innovation Quarter is a simple, yet spectacular, example of community using its historic strengths to reshape and rebuild what’s possible (and next) in science, medicine, and technology. Winston-Salem continues to redefine itself for tomorrow.

The crucial settlement of Bethabara, the “house of passage,” was founded in 1753 by 15 German-speaking Moravians. Beyond surviving the French and Indian War, Bethabara and its inclusive, hardworking, principled people are credited with being the forerunners to the eventual establishment that became Old Salem.

Without these earliest pioneering folks and their investments in community, Winston-Salem might not have had the ability to be the understated, American entrepreneurial powerhouse that it is.

Though traditional Southern cooking might come to mind, the city’s culinary flavor melds its historical influences with chef-driven innovation and international flavors. You’ll find traditional Southern cooking techniques coupled with contemporary flair. Winston-Salem is known for Moravian baked goods such as sugar cake, a yeasted cake with “dimples” sweetened with brown sugar that has been caramelized and sprinkled with cinnamon. There also are famous cookies, rolled paper thin, with ginger being the traditional flavor.

Winston-Salem is the birthplace of the iconic Krispy Kreme doughnut, 1937. (Stephen Fries)

Talking about sweet treats, Winston-Salem is the birthplace of the iconic Krispy Kreme doughnut (1937). Within a few blocks, one can experience the food culture of Winston-Salem, a treat at a historic bakery, local BBQ, casual Southern fare, or at a modern and chic bistro.

The Kimpton Cardinal Hotel, The Katharine Brasserie & Bar

Our home here was at the “artastic” Kimpton Cardinal Hotel, https://thecardinalhotel.com.   Unbeknownst to most, New York City’s Empire State Building has an architectural prototype. And that building is the Cardinal Hotel. The exquisite, art deco property was originally built to be the headquarters of the R.J. Reynolds Tobacco Co. The hotel’s restaurant, The Katharine Brasserie & Bar, is named in honor of the esteemed and iconic wife of Reynolds. Winston-Salem has roots in historic figures who tie into so much of America’s story.

The restaurant offers the ideal respite for locals and hotel guests alike in an enchanting and gleaming art deco space that serves French-inspired classics, using seasonal, Southern ingredients. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, and bar fare are served. After a day of travel, The Katharine was a convenient and welcoming choice.

Creamy tomato fennel soup sits next to a grilled pimento cheese sandwich at the Katharine Brasserie and Bar in the Cardinal Hotel. The dish is comforting and nostalgic, albeit with a distinctly Southern twist. (Stephen Fries)

The creamy tomato fennel soup sits beside a grilled pimento cheese sandwich that took me back to a childhood favorite, comforting and nostalgic, albeit with a distinctly Southern twist. The classic Caesar salad sits along succulent shrimp, pairing well with the zippy dressing upon the crisp romaine.

The stunning bar anchors the space, setting the scene for dining and socializing. There are creative featured cocktails, some using spirits distilled in Winston-Salem. The Katharine serves up traditional breakfast fare with a nod to France … think Croque Monsieur.

Reynolda & Reynolda Village, Graylyn Estate

A delightful afternoon was spent savoring lunch and snacks at the charming specialty cafes in Reynolda Village prior to touring the renowned and exquisite Reynolda, the sprawling, countryside, family estate of R.J. and Katharine Reynolds. The buildings that make up the village were once part of the private family compound.

The expansive and impressive collection of American art at Reynolda, is as jaw dropping as it is breathtaking. Every room of the estate tastefully displays piece after piece, each one demanding attention.

We had to return to the Reynolda Village, https://reynoldavillage.com, both to shop at the collection of independent boutiques and for one of the “made-your-way-to-order” doughnuts from the incredible Dough Joe’s, https://www.doughjoesnc.com. Worth every custom calorie.

Nothing fills the senses quite like the ambiance and nuanced atmosphere of both the 55-acre Graylyn Estate, https://www.graylyn.com, and its upscale and sophisticated Manor House Dining Room, idyllically located amid the rural charm of the gardens, terraces, greenery, and woods that surround the impeccable Norman Revivalist main mansion house.

Graylyn Estate is both a boutique hotel and retreat. Staying there feels as if you are at a grand European countryside manor. (Courtesy of Visit Winston-Salem)

Once the private estate of Bowman and Nathalie Gray, it is owned and operated by Wake Forest University. Both a boutique hotel and retreat, staying here feels as if you are at a grand European countryside manor. Every visit here feels special, and as magical as the previous time. Dining here is a must.

Pan-Seared Hokkaido Sea Scallop with grilled corn mousse, caviar and lobster tomato emulsion at The Graylyn Estate. (Chris Bartlett)

Old Salem

The Heritage Bridge serves as the gateway to the Old Salem Museum and Gardens District (Chris Bartlett)

The National Historic District of Old Salem is one of America’s most important living museums, where one can experience the nation’s oldest operating bakery, Winkler, and oldest standing African American Church in North Carolina (1861) at the St. Philips African Moravian Church — Heritage Site.

The opportunity to engage with and learn about key historic eras and associated, iconic stories and characters extends onto the following places worth visiting: the Museum of Southern Decorative Arts, the Gardens at Old Salem, the Visitor Center featuring the largest surviving Tannenberg Organ, the Salem Tavern Museum, and the Historic Brookstown Inn.

Step back in time at Winkler Bakery, https://www.oldsalem.org/winkler, founded in 1807, the oldest operating bakery in America. Here, you’ll be able to taste Moravian heritage. Located within the Old Salem Museums and Gardens, staff are dressed in Moravian attire as they prepare the famous cookies and cakes.

Muddy Creek Cafe & Listening Room, bit.ly/3O61MBP, is the spot for a quick yet relaxing lunch or the perfect spot to sit and sip on a warm beverage while experiencing some of Old Salem’s local, authentic, live music. It’s a charming little respite that offers the traditional Moravian Chicken Pie.

What’s old is new again is the perfect way to describe the spirit of The Historic Brookstown Inn, https://brookstowninn.com. Here, history is preserved yet reimagined. The building, constructed in 1837 for the Salem Manufacturing Co., later became one of the first cotton mills that used electric lighting. Now a hotel with 70 guest rooms, the original brick walls and wooden beams add to the uniqueness of this hotel.

Dining at Tuscani, Betty on Burke, Spring House

If you’re in the mood for house-made pasta, fresh seafood, and an elevated dining Italian dining experience, Tuscani by Sage & Salt, https://tuscaniofnc.com, is the place. Located in the Innovation Quarter, the ambiance is chic but comfortable with thoughtful, industrial touches.

Start with the bread service trio (focaccia with olive oil, cheese bread and grissini aka breadsticks, thin and crispy). Each spoonful of the chicken Florentine soup presented a blend of savory warmth, silkiness, and fresh vegetables. I’m always interested in trying meatballs in fine Italian restaurants, and theirs did not disappoint, served with spaghetti. It is a comforting classic, meatballs perfectly seasoned covered in tomato sauce fragrant with basil, garlic, and quality olive oil. The luscious Bucatini Cacio e Pepe is topped with colossal shrimp wrapped in crispy prosciutto. For dessert, we tried several heavenly flavors of chef-made gelato.

Honoring the family legacy began the moment the name Betty on Burke, https://www.bettyonburke.com, was chosen, in homage to both namesake grandmothers of the two founding owners. The commitment to celebrating family roots and history continues onto the globally inspired (and hunger-inducing) menu. And yes, it’s due to one of the Bettys having been a world traveler and international adventurer.

Korean barbecue beef served at Betty on Burke. (Stephen Fries)

It’s set in a charming, sublime, and slightly minimalist space that feels inviting and warm. We were delighted to see that tomato pies, a signature from their sister restaurant, Mozelle’s, was on the menu. The preparation of Korean barbecue beef had just the right amount of smoky-sweet marinade, the chili adding just a bit of heat. The avocado with its buttery softness, and the cucumber on the side, adds vibrancy with their contrasting textures and flavors.

Everything about The Spring House Restaurant, Kitchen & Bar, http://www.springhousenc.com, says welcome to an elegant Southern home. From its history, steeped into the rich annals of Millionaires Row to its 30 years as the city’s library and onto today, with its Southern-friendly restaurant using seasonally fresh, local ingredients, it continues unfolding into another chapter of excellence.

The Spring House Restaurant, Kitchen and Bar. Everything here says welcome to an elegant Southern home. (Courtesy of The Spring House Restaurant)

With Chef Tim Gardenetti’s passion, vision, and taste for what’s both delicious and fresh, the menu reads like a greatest hits for anyone who appreciates and enjoys classic dishes with a seasonal-local flare.

Our dinner began with North State Taquito stuffed with portobello, leek and pimento cheese.

“The dish is our first feature in Bon Appetit magazine,” Gardenetti said.

The Petite Starter Plate included luscious, slow-cooked beef cheeks, Southern roasted oyster Rockefeller-style, and a duck confit croquette. Beet, spinach and goat cheese salad was adorned with roasted apples and candied pecans — yum. The berry vinaigrette tied the flavors together well.

We both opted for the cornmeal-crusted, catfish fillet served with beans and greens and pimento cheese grits, a fabulous dish. The Winston-Salem comeback sauce works well with the dish, creamy, tangy, and slightly spicy, typically Southern.

Paying homage to Krispy Kreme, Gardenetti prepared Krispy Kreme bread pudding using doughnuts accompanied by vanilla panna cotta and raspberry anglaise for drizzling.

Exploring Winston & Beyond

We were fortunate to spend additional days exploring dynamic, downtown Winston and beyond at places where both art and culinary arts are celebrated through sharing and participation. Tasting the World Famous Sweet Potato Brownie was a must, so we began with a stop at  NataBelles Desserts in the historic Ardmore neighborhood. One delectable bite, and we instantly knew why it is a must.

Our casual stroll to Bobby Boy Bakeshop helped make room for all the deliciousness that would come our way. From classic pastry to Danish, soups, salads, and everything savory, this bakery does it all beautifully. Their passion for the classic French approach to their food and recipes truly shines. And it is the reason we overindulged.

Post lunch, we found ourselves immersed in the plethora of arts going on throughout the many schoolhouse rooms of the Sawtooth School for Visual Arts that serve as the leaning centers for each of the respective artforms that dwell within the sawtooth windowed building that houses it. A truly inspirational space for anyone who relishes the arts, from making and selling, or observing and buying, https://www.sawtooth.org.

Another authentic and handmade Moravian cookie baker is Mrs. Hanes Moravian Cookies, https://hanescookies.com, named the No. 5 cookie shop in America by USA Today readers. The fourth- generation family bakery offers tours consisting of six stops where the tour leader will talk about each area, and you’ll receive a different flavor cookie at each stop. The best and worth the trip!

Mrs. Hanes Moravian Cookies was named the No. 5 cookie shop in America by USA Today readers. (Stephen Fries)

The importance of Triad Cultural Arts Inc. — TCA to the African American community — its Black history, continued learning, ongoing participation, and what it offers today cannot be underestimated. The events, performances, and festivals it offers annually are celebratory and an inspiration for all who immerse themselves in them.

A 30-minute drive north of Winston-Salem to Pilot Mountain landed us at JOLO Winery & Vineyards, https://jolovineyards.com, and End Posts Restaurant. Between the serene Piedmont vistas, casual elegance of the winery, restaurant, and its many cozy decks, rooms, and nooks,  it all feels like it’s out of some fairytale, where the atmosphere elevates an experience to the point of being an utter wow.

JOLO Winery and Vineyards End Posts Restaurant serves Thai sweet chili shrimp, lightly battered and glazed in a sauce with both sweetness and heat, plus notes of garlic. (Stephen Fries)

Each menu item is followed by the winery’s suggestion. The lightly golden bubbling crab dip, a velvety blend of cheese with hints of lemon and garlic, was full of delicate crab. The Thai sweet chili shrimp is lightly battered and glazed in a sauce with both sweetness and heat, plus notes of garlic. The pineapple-lime juice adds a tangy brightness to the dish. The filet, topped with three large shrimp prepared scampi style makes this surf and turf classic unforgettable. Our finale meal had to be topped off with a sweet ending, Lemon Cello Cake, sponge cake layered with mascarpone, crowned with white chocolate curls, berry coulis and whipped cream.

The rhythm of Winston-Salem will entice you to return again and again, as we do. And don’t skip dessert!

For more, visit https://visitwinstonsalem.com.

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

[sfarticles]

Spring holidays come with a taste of tradition. Passover and Easter include meals that celebrate fond memories, so often about the food.

(Photo: Dori Gordon Walker)

Column as seen in Spring holidays come with a taste of tradition

Spring has finally arrived, and with it comes spring holidays. At sundown on April 1, Passover begins with the first Seder, the ritual-filled feast celebrated by Jewish families that commemorates the freedom of Jews from slavery in Egypt and concludes on April 9. Easter, which brings a sense of hope, renewal, and faith for the future, will be celebrated on April 5.

During the dreary and monochromatic winter, I see the light of springtime at the end of the seemingly endless tunnel upon the arrival of in- store displays, brimming with spring holiday staples such as gefilte fish, matzo, coconut macaroons, Easter ham, pastel-colored eggs, chocolate bunnies, and those brightly colored Peeps.

Passover and Easter include meals that celebrate tradition and provoke fond memories, so often about the food. From matzo to hot cross buns, eggs on the Seder plate to eggs dyed in a kaleidoscope of colors, and to the popularity of lamb, food symbolism is as renowned as both celebrations. These holidays gather family and friends around the table, where the food savored quite often helms from recipes passed down for generations.

The Passover Seder and the Easter dinner or brunch have different menus, however both share a similar message for rekindling family connections and the ultimate celebration of survival, life and deliverance. Now, let’s get cooking with these recipes.

I interviewed Dori Gordon Walker, author of “Essential Passover From Scratch: Recipes and Stories from my Mother’s Kitchen,” available at https://amzn.to/3aoF4M7.

“Like many Jews, the major cooking holiday for my family is Passover, where once-a-year delicacies are lovingly prepared from scratch, with matrilineal inheritance and collective memory — of techniques, ingredients, and notional quantities — serving as recipes,” she said.

She has spent 10 years quantifying and documenting her family’s Passover staples into easy-to-follow, gorgeously photographed recipes. The book has all you need to create a beautiful Seder meal — gefilte fish with freshly-made horseradish, charoset, chicken soup with fluffy matzo balls, a sublime brisket recipe, and an impressive array of cookies for dessert.

Nicole’s Dried Fruit Charoset (Photo: Dori Gordon Walker)

Makes 4 cups

Ingredients:

1½ cups dried dates, sliced

1½ cups dried figs, chopped

½ cup slivered almonds

½ cup dried apricots, chopped

2 tablespoons honey

¼ cup red wine

Optional:

¼ cup raisins

½ cup chopped apples

¼ cup chopped walnuts

Directions:

Mix together the fruit and nuts.  In a bowl, combine the honey and wine. Stir it all together.  Adjust with more honey or wine to taste.

Passover Mandel Bread (Photo: Dori Gordon Walker)

Makes 5 dozen

Ingredients:

½ pound butter

1 cup sugar

4 eggs

1 tablespoon grated orange rind

1½ cups matzo cake meal

½ cup potato starch

1 cup chopped pecans

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large bowl, cream butter and sugar. Add the eggs and orange rind. In another bowl, mix together the cake meal and potato starch and add to the wet ingredients.  Stir in the nuts. Refrigerate for at least an hour, or overnight.

Hand roll into eight 1-inch rolls, placed about 4 inches apart onto greased cookie sheets, then flatten using the palm of your hand. Bake for 20–25 minutes, or until very slightly browned. Remove from oven and cut into ¾ inch diagonal slices; turn each cookie 90 degrees onto a cut edge and return to oven to bake for another 8–10 minutes. Remove from oven and flip each cookie over onto the other cut edge; return to oven for another 8–10 minutes. If you like, sprinkle the warm cookies with a mixture of sugar and cinnamon.

Matzo Apple Souffle

Serves 6

Ingredients:

2 pieces matzo (or 1 heaping cup matzo farfel)

3 eggs, separated

2 cups charoset or 2 cups peeled, grated apple

½ teaspoon cinnamon (omit if used in your charoset)

¼ cup oil

¼ cup sugar

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees

Crumble up the matzo in a bowl, if using matzo pieces. Run warm water over the matzo until wet, then drain.  Mix all the ingredients except the egg whites. Beat the egg whites until stiff and fold into the mixture.

Root Beer–Glazed Ham

Recipe from “Tom Fitzmorris’s New Orleans Food,” by Tom Fitzmorris (2018, Abrams), a book from the ckbk collection, https://bit.ly/3NybEUz.

The author writes: “This is without a doubt the most-asked-for recipe in the 17-year history of my radio show. Demand for it rises during the holidays but never goes away completely. The root beer–glazed ham is a fixture on my table on Thanksgiving, Christmas, and Easter. It’s in the oven all morning (good thing my turkey is usually out on the grill!), and it makes the whole house smell good. You’ll find that lots of your guests will fight over the black crusty parts of the ham (and all the rest of it, too). If you live in New Orleans, I strongly urge you to buy the superb locally produced Chisesi ham for this. It’s widely available at supermarkets, usually in the deli department. Otherwise, a top-quality, lean, naturally smoked boneless ham is what you want. I usually make the glaze the night before so I can get the ham right into the oven in the morning. You’ll also want to use a disposable pan to bake the ham. The drippings get so crusty that they are very hard to dislodge.”

Serves 15-20

Ingredients:

Glaze:

24 ounces. (2 cans) Barq’s root beer

4½ teaspoons. pepper jelly

4½ teaspoons Tabasco Caribbean Style Steak Sauce or Pickapeppa

6 cloves

1 stick cinnamon

1 bay leaf

Peel and juice of ½ orange

Peel of ½ lemon

Ham:

One 10–14-pounc cured, smoked ham

¾ cup dark brown sugar

½ teaspoon dry mustard

Directions:

Combine all of the glaze ingredients in a large saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil, then lower to a simmer and cook for about 30 minutes. Strain the pan contents and discard the solids. Reduce the liquid to about ½ cup. Refrigerate if you do this in advance.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place the ham on a rack in a disposable aluminum pan. Cut shallow gashes in a crisscross pattern across the top half of the ham. Spoon just enough of the glaze over the ham to completely wet the surface. Combine the brown sugar and mustard together and pat it all over the ham. Pour ½ cup of water into the pan.

Pesach Almond Cakes

Recipe from “The Complete Guide to Traditional Jewish Cooking,” by Marlena Spieler, a book from the ckbk collection, https://bit.ly/3NybEUz.

The headnote says: “Almond cake such as this probably has its origins in the Jewish community of Venice. Its popularity was spread by Catherine de Medici when she became queen of France in 1547.”

Makes 12-16 servings

Ingredients:

3 cups ground almonds

½ cup matzo meal

¼ tsp salt

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1¼ cups sugar

1⅓ cups brown sugar

3 eggs, separated

1½ teaspoon almond extract

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

⅔ cup orange juice

⅔ cup brandy

1¾ cups icing (confectioners’) sugar

Scant 1 cup flaked (sliced) almonds

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Lightly grease two 12–15-inch square cake pans. Put the ground almonds, matzo meal and salt in a bowl and mix together.

Put the oil, sugars, egg yolks, almond extract, vanilla extract, orange juice and half the brandy in a separate bowl. Stir, then add the almond mixture to form a thick batter. (You may find it is slightly lumpy.)

Whisk the egg whites until stiff. Fold one-third of the egg whites into the mixture to lighten it, then fold in the rest. Pour the mixture into the prepared tins and bake for 25–30 minutes.

Meanwhile, mix the remaining brandy with the icing sugar. If necessary, add a little water to make an icing with the consistency of single (light) cream. Remove the cake from the oven and prick the top all over with a skewer.

Pour the icing evenly over the top of the cake, then return the cake to the oven for a further 10 minutes, or until the top is crusty.

Algerian Passover Matzo and Pea Omelet

Recipe from “Saffron Shores: Jewish Cooking of the Southern Mediterranean,” by Joyce Goldstein (2002, Chronicle Books) A book from the ckbk collection, https://bit.ly/3NybEUz.

The headnote says: “Leone Jaffin’s Aunt Colette gave her this recipe for a Passover omelet. Instead of cooking the omelet in oil, she uses meat drippings; you can use chicken fat as well. The addition of garlic and hot pepper makes this a very lively version of matzo brei.”

Serves 4-6

Ingredients:

5 tablespoons meat drippings, chicken fat, or peanut oil

6 to 8 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

2 cups water

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

1 small dried red pepper, crushed, or ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon ground caraway or cumin

4 matzo, broken into small pieces

1 pound green peas, shelled and blanched (about 1 cup)

6 eggs, beaten

Directions:

In a sauté pan or skillet, heat the drippings, fat, or oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the water, salt, pepper, bay leaf, paprika, red pepper, and caraway or cumin. When the liquid boils, add the matzo and peas. Cook until most of the water is absorbed, about 10 minutes.

Pour the eggs over the matzo. Using a fork, pull the sides of the omelet in so the rest of the eggs can run underneath. When the omelet is set but still quite moist, loosen the sides with a spatula, slide it onto a plate, and serve at once.

Cold Poached Salmon With Cucumber Sauce, recipe by Dori Gordon Walker. (Photo: Dori Gordon Walker)

For Gordon Walker’s recipe for Cold Poached Salmon With Cucumber Sauce, visit https://stephenfries.com/recipes.

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

[sfarticles]

Uses for rhubarb go far beyond pie The vegetable is one of spring's first harvests. Here are some options for preparing it.

The pastry chef's recipe: Rhubarb Panna Cotta: This make-ahead dessert is simple to prepare and perfect for serving straight from the fridge after a comforting home-cooked meal. (Photo: Epicurean Atlanta)

As seen in Uses for rhubarb go far beyond pie (one of several newspapers)

It’s time for another installment of how the creative minds of a chef, baker, mixologist, and barista would use rhubarb, an ingredient that, come spring, appears in the produce aisle with its bright ruby red hue.

It’s one of spring’s (yeah, spring is almost here) first harvests. Rhubarb is a vegetable that many don’t know how to prepare. What commonly comes to mind is strawberry-rhubarb pie. My introduction to the vegetable was in childhood, as my parents would stop at a farmstand to pick up a freshly baked pie.

Rhubarb does require some attention before it wakes up the palate. It needs to be trimmed of the leaves since they are toxic (they contain high levels of oxalic acid). It longs for sugar to reduce the tartness. It needs heat to soften it and requires other ingredients to balance its flavor. It is not a grab-and-eat vegetable.

Using rhubarb has its rewards as you’ll see by the creations these culinarians have shared. Cookbook authors are also transforming these humble, celery-like stalks into creative dishes. Below, I’ve shared two recipes from https://www.ckbk.com, my go-to resource for ingredient-specific inspiration.

When you see these ruby stalks at the market, pick some up; rhubarb goes far beyond pie.

Did you know?

• Rhubarb is technically a vegetable, not a fruit.

• Don’t eat the leaves. They are toxic with high levels of oxalic acid.

• Being a perennial, rhubarb plants can produce for 10-20 years.

• Pie plant is a nickname. Why? It was a dessert ingredient during World War II because other fruits were not plentiful.

• According to www.highaltituderhubarb.com, rhubarb’s medicinal uses began at least 5,000 years ago.

• There is no record of common, culinary rhubarb prior to the 1800s. Consumption of rhubarb stalks began in Britain in the early 19th century with its popular adoption as an ingredient in desserts and wine making.

• The state producing the most rhubarb is Washington. The town of Sumner is known as the Rhubarb Pie Capital of the World.

The Mixologist’s Recipe: Brunel Rouge

Recipe by Curt Crider, bar and restaurant manager, Epicurean Tampa, https://epicureanhotel.com (Photo: Epicurean Tampa)

When asked for the inspiration in creating this recipe, he said: “Crafted and designed for Tampa’s night life and the city’s growing love for martinis. This cocktail also adds a nod to nostalgia, with its sweet tart candy comparison on the palate. It’s bright, balanced, structured, and irresistibly photogenic. A cocktail designed to stand out at the bar, on the table, and on social media.”

Ingredients:

2 ounces 6 O’clock Brunel Gin

1 ounce house made rhubarb syrup*

¾ ounce fresh lemon juice

¼ ounce aquafaba

Few dashes of orange bitters

* https://bit.ly/4ckWz2T

All ingredients are added to the shaker tin, shaken and& double strained into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with shaved rhubarb.

Rhubarb Vinaigrette: Chef Jon Atanacio says, "I thought the tart sweetness of the vinaigrette would be refreshing to have on our Epicurean Salad for the spring." (Photo: Epicurean Tampa)

The chef’s recipe: Rhubarb Vinaigrette

Recipe by Jon Atanacio, executive chef, Epicurean Hotel in Tampa, Fla., https://epicureanhotel.com

When asked for the inspiration in creating this recipe, he said: “My love for strawberry rhubarb pie! The first time I had rhubarb was in a duck dish in a French bistro during my internship. It was more tart than sweet. Then I had it in a strawberry rhubarb pie, and it changed my world! Since then, every spring, I make sure rhubarb is on the menu in some capacity. I thought the tart sweetness of the vinaigrette would be refreshing to have on our Epicurean Salad for the spring.”

Chef’s bio: Raised on New York City’s Italian and Puerto Rican flavors, Atanacio trained at The Art Institute before honing classic French techniques under Francois Payard. He rose to Chef de Cuisine at Aqua Grill and served as Executive Sous Chef at Todd English’s Olives. After leading kitchens at The Karol Hotel and the famous Bern’s Steak House, he returned to the Epicurean Hotel Tampa as Executive Chef.

Makes approximately 1 quart

Ingredients:

1 pint fresh rhubarb, small dice

½ cup sugar

¼ cup chopped fresh oregano

½ teaspoon chopped lavender

1 ½ tablespoons maple syrup

½ cup apple cider Vinegar

1/3 cup pomace oil (you can substitute olive oil)

¼ cup pumpkin seed oil

Salt and pepper to taste

Directions:

In a 2-quart pot, add rhubarb and sugar. Cook on medium to low heat until you reach a jam consistency. Add a pinch of salt. Let the rhubarb cool to room temperature.

In the large mixing bowl, add chopped oregano, chopped lavender, maple syrup, and cider vinegar. Mix well with a whisk. Add cooked, chilled rhubarb. Combine until evenly distributed. Add both pomace and pumpkin seed oil, whisk until well combined. Season with salt and pepper.

Note: The vinaigrette will be broken (not emulsified), just shake well when needed.

For the salad, the chef uses Gem Lettuce, Red Oak lettuce, Baby Frisee, toasted and spiced pecans, goat cheese, fresh strawberries, sweetened rhubarb.

Prewash all the lettuce, then add to a bowl. Add about 2-3 ounces of the vinaigrette. Toss the salad and then place on the plate, stacking the lettuces. Top with the fruit first, then the goat cheese and pecans. Drizzle a little more vinaigrette around the salad for presentation.

The barista’s recipe: The Rhube Awakening

Recipe by Robyn Shipp, food and beverage director, Fenway Hotel in Dunedin, Fla., https://fenwayhotel.com (Photo: Fenway Hotel)

When asked for the inspiration in creating this recipe, she said: “It’s simple — I drew my inspiration for this unique coffee beverage from the dessert, Rhubarb Pie.”

Ingredients:

Rhubarb syrup:

2 pounds rhubarb

4 cups water

1 ¾ cups sugar

(Lasts up to 2 weeks)

6 ounces hot coffee of choice

1 ounce rhubarb syrup

1 ounce chocolate syrup (To make it an alcoholic coffee, Robyn suggests Licor 43 chocolate)

Whipped cream (optional)

Beet powder, for visual effect (optional)

Directions:

To make rhubarb syrup: Rinse rhubarb, remove ends, and dice into small pieces. Place in medium saucepan and cover with the water. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium simmer for 20 minutes, skimming any foam that may form at the top of the boil. Rhubarb will lose stiffness and color. Remove from heat and double strain the liquid into a new pan, removing the rhubarb. Add sugar to the new pan with rhubarb water. Bring back to a boil stirring until sugar has completely dissolved. Simmer five minutes, skimming any foam that may rise to the top.

Add the rhubarb and chocolate syrups to the coffee and mix well. Top with whipped cream and beet powder if desired. Top with whipped cream and beet powder for visual effect.

The pastry chef’s recipe: Rhubarb Panna Cotta

Recipe by Henry Tapia, executive chef, Epicurean Atlanta, https://epicureanhotelatlanta.com

Tapia said: “A smooth, creamy panna cotta is made by gently cooking fresh rhubarb until soft and blending it into rich cream and milk. The rhubarb adds a soft pink color and a bright, slightly tangy flavor that balances the sweetness and vanilla. Lightly set with a delicate wobble, this make-ahead dessert is simple to prepare and perfect for serving straight from the fridge after a comforting home-cooked meal.”

Chef’s bio: Tapia brings over 10 years of hotel culinary expertise to Epicurean Atlanta and provides a keen eye for impeccable and beautiful presentation that leaves patrons speechless. He crafts a globally influenced menu, drawing inspiration from the American Southeast, Hispanic traditions, the Middle East, and Italy. His culinary roots trace back time spent in Puebla, Mexico, working in his mother’s restaurant as a server and cashier. There, he and his family cultivated a shared devotion to the hospitality industry, and the art of cooking from the heart with fresh, seasonal ingredients.

Makes about 6 servings

Ingredients:

Rhubarb base

4 cups chopped rhubarb

½ cup sugar (adjust to taste)

2 tablespoons water

Panna cotta

2½ teaspoons powdered gelatin

3 tablespoons cold water (for blooming gelatin)

1 cup heavy cream

¾ cup whole milk

1¼ cups rhubarb purée (from cooked rhubarb)

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Pinch of salt

Directions:

Make rhubarb puree: Add rhubarb, sugar, and water to a saucepan. Simmer over medium-low heat for 10–15 minutes, until very soft. Blend until completely smooth. Measure out 1¼ cups puree (important for proper set).

Bloom gelatin: Sprinkle over 3 tablespoons cold water. Let stand 5 minutes until it is spongy.

Heat the panna cotta: In a saucepan, combine rhubarb puree, cream, milk, vanilla, and salt. Heat gently until hot but do not boil. Remove from heat and whisk in bloomed gelatin until fully dissolved.

(Optional but great: strain for extra smooth texture.)

Chill. Pour into glasses, ramekins, small molds. Refrigerate 4–6 hours, preferably overnight. Serve with passion fruit puree, raspberry gelee, white chocolate crumbles, berries.

A cookbook author’s recipe: Overnight Oatmeal Cake With Rhubarb Sauce

Recipe from “Rhubarb: 50 True & True Recipes” by Corrine Kozlak (2019, AdventureKeen),  https://bit.ly/4cpYxz4 (Photo: Kevin Scott Ramos)

The headnote says: “You can let them eat cake for breakfast with this delicious, healthy oatmeal treat —a great way to get a non-oatmeal eater on the right side of oats. Make the Rhubarb Sauce ahead and refrigerate overnight; reheat before serving.”

Ingredients:

3 cups old-fashioned oats

2 cups whole milk

⅓ cup light brown sugar

¼ cup butter, melted

2 large eggs

1½ teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

½ teaspoon cinnamon

Whipping cream

Rhubarb Sauce (Recipe below)

Directions:

Combine oats and milk in a large mixing bowl. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Stir brown sugar, butter, eggs, salt, vanilla, and cinnamon into oats mixture until well blended.

Pour batter into a lightly greased 8×8-inch baking dish. Bake for 30 minutes. Cool slightly and cut into squares. Serve each square in a shallow bowl with warm whipping cream and rhubarb sauce.

Rhubarb sauce: Cook 4 cups chopped rhubarb (about 8–10 medium-size stalks, cut into ½-inch pieces), ½ cup water, and ½ cup granulated sugar in a medium-size saucepan over medium heat until soft, about 20 minutes. Remove fruit mixture from heat and purée if needed. Chill overnight, if desired; serve warm.

A cookbook author’s recipe: Pork Loin With Rhubarb and Balsamic Vinegar

Recipe from “New Bistro” by Fran Warde (Mitchell Beazley, 2009), https://bit.ly/4rQLlIj (Photo:Jason Lowe)

The headnote says: “An unusual combination, you may think, but the acidity of the rhubarb cuts through the richness of the pork and makes this a beautiful dish.”

Preparation: 10 minutes

Cooking: 40-45 minutes

Ingredients:

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 ounce butter

1 pound 5-ounce pork loin

7 ounces rhubarb

3 ½ ounces chicken stock

2 ounces sugar

1 teaspoon mustard

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

Sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Heat the oil and butter in an ovenproof pan and, when foaming, add the pork and brown on all sides. Place in the oven and roast for 25 minutes.

Trim the ends of the rhubarb and cut the stems on a diagonal into 1½-inch lengths.

Remove the pork from the oven and lift out of the pan. Add the remaining ingredients to the pan, stir, then place the pork on top and return to the oven for a further 15-20 minutes, or until cooked through.

To serve, slice the pork fillet and serve with the rhubarb sauce.

For the recipe for Rhubarb Beet Salad from Home Made in the Oven by Yvette van Boven (Abrams, 2019) go to https://bit.ly/3N5CHGu. (Photo: Yvette van Boven

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

[sfarticles]

St. Augustine is Florida’s hidden gem The city is rich with culture, diversity and European charm.

Editor’s note: Chris Bartlett contributed to this column.

St. Augustine is Florida's hidden gem as seen in Media News Group newspapers

The St. George Inn has rooms with balconies with closeup views of the Old City Gates and Castillo de San Marcos where the breath-taking sunrise can be enjoyed with a cup of coffee. (Photo: Chris Bartlett)

St. Augustine, Fla., the nation’s oldest city, is a thrill to visit, whether it’s for beachside fun in the sun or to delve into a history that runs long and deep, from its 200 years of Spanish rule to Henry Flager to a pivotal period in the Civil Rights movement in 1964, this city is rich with culture, diversity and European charm.

It could be said that to truly know and appreciate the state of Florida, one must first come to know and understand the stories that made St. Augustine what it is today. It’s a lovely place. It has an inviting, walkable and beautiful downtown, teeming with everything for casual tourists, history buffs and food explorers of all kinds. All this and more makes St. Augustine worthy of being this year’s hidden gem of Florida.

St. George Inn

At St. George Inn, breakfast is served in the tree-canopied courtyard with tables surrounding a two-tiered fountain. (Photo: Chris Bartlett)

Our oasis at the St. George Inn (https://www.stgeorge-inn.com) was everything we look for when choosing a home away from home. From its idyllic walking distance to the historic and city attractions, plus the many food and culinary explorations that ranked highly on our must-be-experienced list, this low-key gem, tucked into multiple buildings, delivers across all fronts.

Its location even rocks close-up views of the Old City Gates (felt like we could touch them from the room’s balcony) and the resplendent Castillo de San Marcos, above which the sunrise magically exploded every morning.

The hospitable team members made us feel like part of their family from arrival through to departure. From our first morning breakfast (the ham, brie and fig preserves on a toasted baguette has the perfect balance of sweet and savory) in the tree-canopied courtyard and onto our final glass of wine at Bin 39 Wine Bar, we simply savored every second spent at this gem.

Tables surrounding the fountain in the courtyard at the St. George Inn is where guests mingle and sip on fine wine from the inn’s Bin 39. (Photo: Stephen Fries)

Owned and operated by the hotel, Bin 39 populates both the lobby bar and spills outdoors to umbrella-topped, cozy tables that nestle around a mesmerizing, two-tiered water fountain. Nothing hurried nor rushed here, simply an easy space where one can linger a little bit longer while dreaming up and planning where each day’s explorations might lead.

Catch 27 Restaurant

Crab cake at Catch 27. The restaurant is known for the locally sourced fresh-catch seafood with a Southern influence. (Photo: Stephen Fries)

After a leisurely stroll through the historic district and down the full stretch of the pedestrian-centric St. George Street, we wandered into Catch 27, with its charming atmosphere, for the first dinner experience. Yet another elegant courtyard, adorned with tropical greenery, provided for a quiet and charming respite from the hubbub that buzzes throughout the neighborhood.

Known for the locally sourced fresh-catch seafood, with several dishes taking on a Southern influence, we chose “Grits &…”

The “&” means your choice of grilled or blackened chicken, shrimp or fish of the day. Grilled shrimp was our “&.” The cheddar and bacon grit cakes with braised collards, datil pepper relish and sherry cream sauce are a creative take on classic Southern shrimp and grits. St. Augustine is where most datil peppers are grown and sold.

A golden-brown, pan-seared crab cake resting on a bed of red skin potato wedges and asparagus, served over a velvety lobster cream sauce, was our other delightful entree. Chess pie, the classic Southern pie known for its gooey, dense custard filling, is taken to another level, prepared with brown butter brandy, served with vanilla bean ice cream and balsamic berries. It’s the perfect dessert indulgence.

Walking the Old Town: Aviles Street Area

Step into history on Aviles Street, the oldest street in the U.S., dating back to the early 1600s where visitors enjoy boutiques, cafes and galleries (Photo: Chris Bartlett)

Any time of day works for walking up and down and around Aviles Street, exploring the Old Town. The oldest street in the United States intertwines important, iconic museums with vibrant local artists’ galleries and studios, shops, boutiques, restaurants and bars. The architecture alone had our heads swiveling as we longed to capture every bit of what’s unique and unforgettably magical.

The intrigue of history is alive and present here for the eyes, the heart and the senses, a step back into times that shaped both the city and the state.

Our sweet tooth was calling while savoring the sights here. And the colorful sign at Peace Pie caught our attention, which allowed us to satisfy the calling. The marriage of two dessert favorites, it’s a handmade ice cream sandwich stuffed with ice cream and topped with a layer of homemade pie filling. Choose from traditional flavors or an unexpected combination, crafted from customer favorites and pure imagination.

The Tasting Tours: Corks and Forks

As it was time to delve into the food scene, we chose an afternoon culinary tour with the popular local The Tasting Tours: Corks and Forks, www.thetastingtours.com. And we’re thrilled that this was the one as both history and today’s food scene were brought together in a way that allowed us to quickly understand the depth and breadth of what makes St. Augustine so incredibly special.

From historical ties to old-world ingredients like the datil pepper to today’s chefs’ innovative approaches to food and beverage, it’s clear why this culinary scene explodes with both classic and diverse dishes and foods. The stops on our tour, and they are unique, included The Modern Rose, www.themodernrose.com; Cafe Alcazar in the Lightner Museum, www.thealcazarcafe.com/cafe-alcazar; The Gifted Cork, https://thegiftedcork.com; and Casa Maya, www.casamayasta.com. Each stop was a wonderful and tasty experience, hosted by passionate, knowledgeable presenters.

Cafe Alcazar, located at the Lightner Museum, is a unique place to dine, located in the deep end of where the Hotel Alcazar swimming pool used to be. (Photo: Stephen Fries)

La Nouvelle Bistro

Tucked into the impeccable, historic Lincolnville neighborhood, La Nouvelle offers an exquisite and refined, bistro dining experience on par with the finest French bistros of Paris.

As their website says, “The atmosphere will lead you to the streets of Paris without leaving St. Augustine.”

From our adorable corner table, perched on the porch, we sipped, we tasted, we savored every bite and beverage with a level of service that was as genuine and attentive as it was authentic and professional.

Escargots de Bourgogne, tender, bathed in a fragrant garlic butter sauce, was served with an essential accompaniment, freshly baked baguette for dipping. Steak Au Poivre, a generous filet of beef cooked to perfection, with a cognac peppercorn sauce, was accompanied with Maldon salt mashed potatoes and creamy herbed butter. The incorporation of Boursin cheese to the potatoes added a rich and aromatic deliciousness. These are not grandmas mashed potatoes.

Steak Au Poivre at La Nouvelle Bistro, an exquisite and refined bistro dining experience on par with the finest French bistros of Paris. (Photo: Chris Bartlett)

Elegant and indulgent, Pot de creme, a classic French dessert, is crowned with a light Chantilly cream, a contrast to the dense chocolate. The chocolate pearls add a bit of crunch to the sweet ending of this dining experience. Voila!

Free Walking History Tour

The St. Augustine Free Walking Tour, led by Adam Johnson, was both the most comprehensive and best history tour we’ve experienced. Insightful and informal, Adam shares his deep knowledge of the people, the places, the events and occurrences that shaped modern-day St. Augustine with passion, and a conversational tone that welcomes all to question and/or add personal reflections upon these heralded stories. While history is not always our go-to topic, this tour is a do-not-skip! For more information, visit https://freetourstaugustine.com.

Cordova Coastal Chophouse & Bar

A late lunch at Cordova Coastal Chophouse and Bar (https://cordovachophouse.com) inside the esteemed Casa Monica Resort & Spa transported us through history. The grandeur and historic elegance showcases frescoes, art galleries, turn-of-the century architectural elements and chandeliers evoking the hotel’s 1888 beginnings, all coupled with modern amenities.

The fish and chips is prepared from the local, fresh catch of the day with a lemon caper remoulade accompanied by tarragon coleslaw and mojo spiced fries. Living in New England where lobster rolls reign supreme, we were hesitant to order it. However, we trusted that the quality of this restaurant, and the chef would know how to do it right … and it was superb. Here, the chef takes the popular lobster roll one notch further and adds succulent shrimp, resulting in a scrumptious take on a New England favorite.

Harvest Trail: Hastings

A local suggested taking a 30-minute drive out to farm country in and around the town of Hastings. Hastings Coffee on Main Street is where we picked up a hardcopy of the annual Harvest Trail Map while enjoying a freshly brewed latte. Always interested in where foods are grown and sourced, produced and processed, we eagerly dove into visiting some farms that range from olives, flowers, livestock to fruit trees and to honey. These producers supply the many food establishments in the county and beyond.

And the Harvest Trail passport is a fun idea for getting people out there to learn about the regional growers and producers, while checking-off the farms visited, with the chance to win participation prizes.

Asado Life

On our final evening, we drove to Asado Life (https://asadolife.com), a few minutes from historic downtown, for dinner. It’s a community-spirited, restaurant-meets-marketspace-meets-memorable spot. Our eyes fell in love with the sublime lines of its ambiance upon first sight.

This inviting, Argentine-inspired restaurant sits along the San Sebastian River. It is comfortably appointed and takes great advantage of all the various bar and dining and gathering spaces that sprawl alongside the tranquil, dockside waters. It has excellent, friendly service, with a menu sure to please anyone who enjoys grilled food as well as craft cocktails and scrumptious desserts.

“Argentinian-inspired cooking methods including ember roasting, smoking, and live-fire Parilla grilling” is how Asado Life describes their style of cooking. To experience this style of cooking, the Asado Trio is the way to be go: parilla grilled picanha (a premium Brazilian beef cut), ember roasted signature spiced chicken thigh, house-made Malbec infused chorizo served with chimichurri-roasted potatoes and green beans.

Seacuterie is one of the chef-curated boards. Think charcuterie from the sea: “Chorizo Del Mar”;  truffled Maine lobster pate; smoked Faroe Island salmon rillettes is served with an array of accoutrements; heirloom tomato salsa criolla; molasses infused whole grain mustard; Aji Amarillo aioli; Furikake; cucumber crostini with French baguette crostini. Seared beef medallions; miso butter emulsion; citrus chili sesame ginger glaze; pickled fresnos and cilantro creates a balance of spicy, savory, and nutty flavors in the sesame ginger beef tips.

An order of the signature focaccia is a must; it’s the best we’ve ever had. The European butter and house-smoked sea salt elevates it to another level, albeit very addicting. We couldn’t resist dessert after savoring the impressive entrees, so we decided on one more indulgence, citrus olive oil cake, made from Heaven’s Door Private Barrel olive oil, topped with vanilla bean cream, charred pineapple and dirty cherries.

Seared Beef Medallions at Asado Life has a balance of savory, spicy and nutty flavors. (Photo: Chris Bartlett)

Citrus olive oil cake at Asado Life. You won’t be able to resist dessert after savoring the impressive entrees prepared with Argentinian-inspired cooking methods. (Photo: Stephen Fries)

I think it is evident why we chose St. Augustine as our 2026 hidden gem of Florida. And to that extent here are more of our favorites:

• Southern Grounds, www.southerngrounds.com

• Forgotton Tonic, https://www.forgottentonic.com

• Mojo BBQ Old City, https://mojobbq.com/mojo-old-city

• Lotus Noodle Bar, https://www.lotusnoodlebar.com

• Odd Birds Cocktail Lounge & Kitchen, www.oddbirdsbar.com

• Whetstone Chocolates, https://www.whetstonechocolates.com

For more places to explore and have fun in St. Augustine, visit www.FloridasHistoricCoast.com.

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

[sfarticles]

Finger Foods are Super (Bowl) Choices

Finger foods are Super (Bowl) choices As it appears in Media News Group publications.

Depending upon when you are reading this, Super Bowl game watchers and fans are either deciding what to serve, preparing their menus, indulging mid-game or still reeling from the outcome. Regardless, it’s always great food that makes for the big win on game day.

For some, the second Sunday in February is just an excuse to gather with friends and family and feast on dips, pizza, chips, sliders and charcuterie. And those iconic wings (of course!) prepared in a multitude of ways.

Finger foods are popular because they are easy to pass around, and the perfect foods to enjoy casually, while catching up with friends or watching the game. Even before the game begins, the ovens are heated, and slow cookers are bubbling with chili and hearty soups. This day is the second-biggest food-focused holiday in the U.S., just behind Thanksgiving.

The showdown this year is between the Seattle Seahawks and New England Patriots. Keep in mind, although there is not a team-endorsed food, fans do have traditions of what foods to serve.

In New England, seafood classics might be on the spread. Think lobster rolls, baked beans, clam chowder, maple glazed wings …  and for dessert, the quintessential Boston Cream Pie. Sam Adams, a Boston beer favorite  is popular with this fan base.

When it comes to Seattle, a regional classic is the Seattle dog (a hot dog smeared with cream cheese and topped with sauteed onions and often jalapenos). Seattle is also known for its seafood, especially salmon and multi-cultural-influenced cuisine. Smoked salmon candy combines both, a delicacy of the region’s Native American tribes. Teriyaki chicken is another popular dish reflecting the area’s Japanese influence. A local, comforting favorite dessert is Marionberry pie bars or hand pies. When it comes to beer, Rainier is the go-to for game day.

Recently published, “Kickoff Kitchen: 64 Game-Day Recipes Inspired by Every Pro-Football Team” by Tim Lopez (2025, Epic Ink, an imprint of Quarto Publishing Group, $24.99) offers an ideal way to celebrate the sport with recipes for house parties or tailgates. Chef Tim, the author, spent 13 years serving food to the Super Bowl LIX champion Philadelphis Eagles. Now, he is a culinary arts teacher in Philadelphia. Lopez presents two recipes for each professional football team.

He writes: “Football is more than just a game — it’s a cultural phenomenon that unites cities, sparks fierce rivalries and brings communities together every Sunday. Just as each team has its own history, traditions and loyal fan base, every region of the country has a distinct food culture that reflects its people, geography and heritage. From the smoky barbecue pits of Kansas City to the seafood shacks of New England, the food that fuels football fans is as diverse and passionate as the sport itself.”

Chicken Wings With Mumbo Sauce, Washington Commanders. This dish is a regional favorite in Washington, D.C,, known for its flavorful pairing of fried chicken wings and a unique, tangy-sweet sauce. (Elysa Weitala Food styling/Victoria Woolard) For recipe, visit stephenfries.com/recipes

Cheesesteak Egg Rolls, Philadelphia Eagles. Cheesesteak Egg Rolls are a modern twist on Philadelphia's iconic cheesesteak. (Elysa Weitala Food styling/Victoria Woolard) For recipe, visit stephenfries.com/recipes

Smoked Salmon Chowder

Team: Seattle Seahawks

The headnote says: “Smoked salmon chowder highlights the fresh, rich flavors of the Pacific Northwest. Its origins can be traced back to the region’s fishing culture in which salmon was a staple ingredient. The chowder combines a creamy broth with chunks of hot-smoked salmon, potatoes, and vegetables, and its appeal lies in its comforting texture and smoky flavor. Pike Place Chowder, located in the iconic Pike Place Market, is renowned for its chowder varieties, including their acclaimed smoked salmon chowder, which showcases locally sourced ingredients and has won numerous awards.”

PREP TIME: 20 minutes

COOK TIME: 40 minutes

YIELD: 20 servings

Ingredients:

¼ cup (½ stick) unsalted butter

1 large onion, small diced

4 ribs celery, small diced

4 carrots, small diced

4 cloves garlic, minced

8 cups chicken or vegetable broth

4 medium red potatoes, peeled and medium diced

2 cups heavy cream

1 cup frozen corn kernels

2 cups chopped hot-smoked salmon (cut into ¼-inch pieces)

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon dried dill

1 teaspoon black pepper

2 teaspoons kosher salt, or to taste

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Chopped fresh dill or flat-leaf parsley, for garnishing (optional)

Directions:

In a large stockpot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, and carrots and cook, stirring often, for 5 to 7 minutes, until the vegetables are softened.

Stir in the garlic and cook for an additional minute, or until fragrant. Add the broth and potatoes to the pot. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and let simmer over medium-high heat for 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender.

Stir in the cream, corn, salmon, thyme, dill, pepper, and salt. Let simmer for an additional 5 to 10 minutes, until heated through.

Fried Clams

Team: New England Patriots

The headnotes says: “Fried clams are a quintessential New England dish that dates to the early 20th century, when they were popularized by the clam shacks that dotted the coastline. The dish typically features fresh, sweet clams that are lightly breaded and fried until golden brown, creating a crispy exterior that perfectly complements the tender, succulent meat inside. This beloved seafood dish often evokes nostalgic memories of summer visits to the beach, where diners would indulge in the simple pleasure of fried clams served with lemon wedges and dipping sauces.”

PREP TIME: 30 minutes

COOK TIME: 10 minutes

YIELD: 15 servings

Ingredients:

2 pounds fresh-shucked whole belly clams (or use three 10-ounce, or 283-gram, cans of whole baby clams, drained and rinsed; see Extra Point)

2 cups prepared seasoned fish fry mix (I like House Autry or Louisiana; make sure it is seasoned but not Cajun- or creole-spiced)

1 cup buttermilk (or substitute with half-and-half)

Vegetable oil, for frying

Salt and black pepper

Lemon wedges, for serving

Tartar or cocktail sauce, for serving

Directions:

If using fresh-shucked whole belly clams, rinse them under cold water to remove any sand or grit. (For canned clams, make sure they are drained fully.) Pat the clams dry with paper towels.

Set up a breading station with the fish fry mix in a shallow dish and the buttermilk in another.

Dip each clam into the buttermilk, allowing any excess to drip off, then dredge in the fish fry mix, ensuring it is evenly coated. Place the breaded clams on a large platter in an even layer, making sure not to overlap them. Place the clams in the refrigerator for 10 minutes while heating the oil.

In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, heat about 2 inches (5 cm) of oil over medium-high heat until it reaches 350 degrees F (175 C). (You can test the oil by dropping a small amount of the buttermilk–fish fry mixture into it; it should sizzle and float to the top.)

Remove the clams from the refrigerator. Carefully add the breaded clams, in batches, to the hot oil and fry for 2 to 3 minutes, until golden brown and crispy on both sides. Transfer the clams to a paper towel–lined plate. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Serve the fried clams hot on a large platter with lemon wedges for squeezing and tartar or cocktail sauce for dipping.

Lobster Rolls

Team: New England Patriots

The headnote says: “Lobster rolls typically feature fresh, sweet lobster meat, which can be served either tossed in mayonnaise or mixed with clarified butter. The choice between these two preparations often sparks passionate debate among New Englanders and seafood enthusiasts. While the mayonnaise version is creamy and cool, the buttered version highlights the rich, savory flavor of the lobster, creating a decadent experience. The origins of the lobster roll can be traced back to the early 1900s, but the dish gained popularity in the 1920s and ’30s as seafood shacks began serving it as a quick, satisfying meal.”

PREP TIME: 30 minutes

COOK TIME: 10 minutes

YIELD: 12 rolls

Ingredients:

Lobster filling:

3 pounds (1.4 kg) cooked lobster meat, chopped (6 to 8 lobsters’ worth; you can buy this frozen or cook your own lobsters and clean)

Mayo version:

½ cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste

½ teaspoon black pepper, or to taste

½ cup minced celery

¼ cup minced chives

Butter version:

½ cup clarified butter

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

1 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste

½ teaspoon black pepper, or to taste

Buns:

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

12 split-top New England-style hot dog buns

For garnishing and serving:

Finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Potato chips

Coleslaw (optional)

Directions:

To prepare the lobster filling: If using frozen lobster meat, make sure it is completely thawed, drained, and patted dry with paper towels. If using fresh, make sure it is drained and patted dry with paper towels.

To make the mayo version: To a large bowl, add the chopped lobster meat, mayonnaise, lemon juice, salt, pepper, celery, and chives, mixing gently to combine. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

To make the butter version: To a large bowl, add the chopped lobster meat with the clarified butter, lemon juice, salt, and pepper, tossing gently until the lobster is well coated. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

To prepare the buns: Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add the unsalted butter and allow it to fully melt. Place the split buns in the skillet, cut sides down, and toast until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes.

For each lobster roll, spoon a generous portion of the lobster filling (4 ounces into a toasted bun. Garnish with the chopped parsley. Serve the lobster rolls immediately with potato chips and/or coleslaw (if using).

Extra point: If you want to make both butter and mayo versions, use 12 pounds of lobster for each version and halve the other ingredients.

Excerpted with permission from “Kickoff Kitchen” (Epic Ink, an imprint of The Quarto Group, 2025) by Tim Lopez.

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

[sfarticles]

Take comfort in making some soup

As published in......

Take comfort in making some soup

Fresh Scallop and Bacon Ramen (William Shaw)

I am often asked what are my favorite dishes to prepare. And my answer is soup, especially in the heart of winter. It is as comforting to make as it is to eat.

The aroma that permeates throughout the house is so inviting. Some might think that my answer would be more complex dishes. Yet soup is so adaptable, it can be hearty, indulgent or refined, prepared with not so perfect veggies, leftovers, such as pasta or beans, or bones from that rotisserie chicken or roast.

I find that there are memories that come to mind when preparing soup. Mine are helping my grandmother roll the matzah balls, light and airy ones, that would float in the broth, and a simple grilled cheese paired with a steaming bowl of tomato soup. To this day, I enjoy a hot bowl of soup while watching the snow fall through the sliding glass door in the dining room.

While writing this column, I am preparing a pot of split pea soup for my parents, who I am visiting in the Sunshine State. This is a ritual when I visit. This is the first batch, chicken soup is up next. Dad already has the containers ready, so once cooled down, the soups will be put in the freezer. I prepare enough to last until the next visit.

January is National Soup Month, initiated by who else but the Campbell Soup Co. in 1984. It’s not only in the United States where soup is a comforting dish, especially in places where cold and snowy winter weather take center stage. Whether it be ramen in Japan, Borscht in Eastern Europe, cabbage soup in Ukraine and Poland, Mexico’s pozole, minestrone in Italy … the list could go on and on.

In a previous column, I mentioned ckbk.com, a website that I call the Spotify for cookbooks, and I am addicted to it. Wanting to check out some new soup recipes, I was delighted how easy it is to search more than 1,000 cookbooks, both new titles and nostalgic classics.

The home page says: “I feel like cooking” You then type in the kind of recipe, specific ingredient, style of dish, cooking technique or occasion. Then you will be delighted to see dozens, or in many cases, hundreds of recipes, along with color photos of the respective dish, for which you are looking. Additionally, it is possible to scroll through entire cookbooks. And, if you choose to purchase a hard copy of the book, the hyperlink to buy it is located on the same page.

You’ve got to try it to experience how intuitive the platform is. There is a 14-day free trial:  https://app.ckbk.com, plus a 25% discount off a one year membership, bit.ly/3ZisCIR.

To celebrate National Soup Month, see how of these Soup 101 questions you get right. Then, get out your soup pot and enjoy the recipes that I culled from ckbk.com.

Can you pass the Soup 101 test?

• What is the name for beet soup?

• What is the name of the fish stew created in Marseilles, France?

• Where did Mulligatawny soup originate?

• What soup is Cajun, popular in New Orleans and made with meat, seafood and vegetables often served over rice?

• What artist produced pictures of soup cans?

• What is the Japanese fermented soybean paste often used to make soup?

• What are the French words for a restaurant’s featured daily soup?

• What is the name of book series where each title contains the word soup?

• What company invented condensed soup?

• Are men or women twice as likely to order soup for lunch?

• What is the most popular soup variety in the United States?

• What company created the first ready-to-serve premium soup from an old family recipe, and what kind was it?

Answers: Borscht, Bouillabaisse, India, Gumbo, Andy Warhol, Miso, soup du jour, “Chicken Soup for the Soul,” Campbell Soup Co., women, chicken noodle, Progresso, minestrone

Fresh Scallop and Bacon Ramen

Recipe from “Ramen,” by Heather Whinney, published by Anness (2015), https://bit.ly/4sMF15n

Serves 4

Ingredients:

For the base:

7½ cups kombu dashi or vegetable stock

14 ounces fresh ramen noodles

For the tare sauce:

2 tablespoons light soy sauce

1 tablespoon sake

2 teaspoons black rice vinegar

Pinch of salt

For the toppings:

8 fatty bacon strips

1 tablespoon sunflower oil

12 scallops

2–3 scallions, green and white parts separated, finely chopped

1–2 teaspoons black sesame seeds

Handful of fresh coriander/cilantro leaves (optional)

Directions:

First, cook the bacon. Preheat a grill or broiler to high, lay the bacon on the rack and cook until golden and crispy. Remove and put to one side.

Heat the oil in a large frying pan or skillet over a high heat until sizzling, then add the scallops and cook for 1–2 minutes per side, until just pale golden. Remove the pan from the heat and put to one side.

Put the stock in a large pan. Mix together the tare ingredients, add to the stock and bring to the boil. Reduce to a simmer, cook for 5 minutes, then taste and add more seasoning if necessary.

Put the noodles in a pan of boiling water and cook for 2–3 minutes or according to packet instructions, until cooked, then remove with a slotted spoon and divide them up between the serving bowls.

Avgolemono Soup With Chicken and Parsley Meatballs

Recipe from “Sainsbury’s Good Soup Book” by Lindsey Bareham, published by Sainsbury’s (1997),      bit.ly/3LR4Pg0 

Preparation and cooking time: 1¼ hours

The headnote says: “Avgolemono means egg and lemon, a combination that is popular throughout the Middle East in soups and sauces. Avgolemono is also the name of a classic Greek soup, made by simmering rice in fish or chicken stock, and whisking in egg yolks and lemon juice at the end. It’s sometimes served with meatballs, as here, and has a distinctive creamy and tangy flavor.”

Serves 4-8

Ingredients:

For the soup:

2½ pints chicken stock

4 ounces long-grain rice, washed

1 boneless, skinless chicken thigh, trimmed of fat

2 egg yolks

Juice of 1 lemon

Salt and pepper

For the chicken meatballs:

1 garlic clove, crushed with a scant teaspoon of salt

1 onion, grated

1 tablespoon fresh mint, finely chopped

1 egg yolk, beaten

1½ ounces (7/8 cup) fresh breadcrumbs

4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Directions:

Place the stock, rice and chicken thigh in a medium-size pan, season generously and bring the liquid up to the boil. Turn down the heat and let it simmer gently for 15 minutes. Remove the chicken thigh from the pan and set it aside.

Using a slotted spoon, remove about half the rice and add it to a bowl containing the garlic, onion and mint. Mince the chicken meat and add it to the bowl. Blend the ingredients thoroughly and add the beaten egg yolk to bind them. Using a wooden spoon, gradually incorporate the breadcrumbs to make a dry mixture.

Scatter the chopped parsley over a tray or work surface. Form the chicken mixture into marble-sized balls — you will be able to make at least 26 — and gently roll them in the parsley until they are completely covered.Bring the soup back to simmering and lower the meatballs into the broth. Maintain a simmer and let them cook for 10 minutes. Some of the parsley will come off, but most of it should stick to the meatballs.

Charred Eggplant Soup With Tzatziki

Recipe from “Soups and Stews” by Editors of Saveur, published by Weldon Owen (2015),  bit.ly/4pFYFNB

Serves 6

Ingredients:

For the soup:

4 large eggplants, halved lengthwise

8 cloves garlic, smashed

6 tablespoons tahini

2 teaspoons Aleppo pepper or paprika, plus more to garnish

Grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

4 cups vegetable stock

2 cups plain, full-fat Greek yogurt

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

For the tzatziki and garnish:

¼ cup plain, full-fat Greek yogurt

1 tablespoon fresh mint, finely chopped plus thinly sliced leaves to garnish

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

2 teaspoon fresh dill, finely chopped

1 clove garlic, mashed into a paste

½ small English cucumber, coarsely grated and squeezed dry

½ small shallot, finely chopped

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Extra-virgin olive oil, to garnish

Grilled pita bread, for serving

Directions:

Make the soup: Heat oven broiler. Place eggplant cut side down on a baking sheet and prick all over with a knife. Broil, flipping once, until skin is charred and eggplant is tender, 15 minutes. Let eggplant cool, then peel and transfer to a blender along with the garlic. Add tahini, Aleppo pepper, lemon zest and juice, 2 cups stock, the yogurt, salt, and pepper; puree until smooth and transfer to a 4-qt. saucepan.

Add remaining stock and bring to a simmer over medium-high. Cook until soup is warmed through and thickened, 4–6 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the tzatziki and garnish: Combine yogurt, mint, lemon juice, dill, garlic paste, cucumber, shallot, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Ladle soup into bowls and garnish with a dollop of tzatziki. Drizzle with oil and sprinkle with Aleppo pepper and sliced mint. Serve with grilled pita bread.

Plum Tomato, Orzo and Oregano Soup

Recipe from from “Seasonal Soups” by Fraser Reid, first published by Kitchen Press (2022),  https://bit.ly/4bALXMH

Serves 4

Ingredients:

1 tablespoon olive oil or butter

1 onion, peeled and diced into ¾ inch cubes

2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

1 carrot, peeled and diced into ¾ inch cubes

1 stick celery, finely chopped

5 plum tomatoes, roughly chopped

½ cup orzo

1 teaspoon fresh oregano, chopped (or 1 teaspoon dried)

5 cups boiling water

2 stock cubes

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Directions:

Heat a pot on a medium heat and add the oil or butter. Fry the onion, garlic, carrot and celery for 5–10 minutes until they soften.

Add the roughly chopped tomatoes along with the orzo and oregano and mix everything together.

Pour in boiling water, crumble in the stock cubes and bring to the boil. Then turn down the heat and simmer for 15 minutes.

For the recipe for Butternut Squash and Mushroom Lasagna, visit  https://bit.ly/3Nx9PqC.

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

[sfarticles]

Lemons shine in the winter These recipes bring a little taste of sunshine into your life.

Lemons shine in the winter

Meyer Lemon Pavlova balances bright citrus with soft, delicate textures while keeping the presntation clean and elegant. (Courtesy of Luminary Hotel and Co.)

Last year I debuted a new concept for sharing seasonal ingredients, focusing on how each one could be made the star of a recipe from the culinary perspectives of a chef, a baker, a barista and a bartender/mixologist.

This time, Meyer lemons are the featured ingredient. When I see them at the supermarket, into the shopping cart they go. They remind me of warmth, as other citrus fruits do, perking me up during the doldrums of winter.

Perhaps it is because these fruits remind me of the Florida and California sunshine where these crops grow. Color experts agree that the colors yellow and orange radiate warmth and energy.

As Frank Sinatra once said, “Orange is the happiest of colors.”

Tae Yun Kim writes in her book, “The First Element: Secrets to Maximizing Your Energy,” “Orange strengthens your emotional body, encouraging a general feeling of joy, well-being, and cheerfulness.”

Before getting to the recipes, let’s talk Meyer lemons, an ingredient that can be used in many directions, as you’ll see how culinarians created recipes incorporating this under the radar citrus fruit.

So, what is the difference between Meyer and regular lemons (typically Eureka or Lisbon)? The primary difference is the flavor. Traditional lemons are bright yellow, quite sour, making you pucker when tasting. Meyer lemons, on the other hand, are a cross between a lemon and mandarin orange, sweeter, less acidic, more floral in both flavor and aroma, with their color leaning more towards orange. Their zest is more fragrant, an excellent reason to use Meyer lemon zest, especially in baking.

I’ve found that with the lower acidity of Meyer lemons, using them when preparing savory dishes, you can use the juice and peel without overpowering the dish.

Interestingly, they were originally cultivated in China, where they were used primarily as a pretty houseplant. If it weren’t for Frank Meyer, who was an agricultural explorer for the U.S. Department of Agriculture, the plant might still simply adorn the home.  His job was to bring back plant species, of which this lemon plant was one of more than a few thousand plants he brought back to the U.S. This species was appropriately named for him, the Meyer lemon.

The Mixologist’s Recipe: Lemon Crush (Photo: Luminary Hotel and Co.)

Recipe by Lucy Delph, outlets assistant general manager, Luminary Hotel & Co. Boutique Hotels in Fort Myers, Fla., luminaryhotel.com

Bio: Delph brings energy, precision and a deep passion for hospitality to the guest experience. She began her career in the industry at 17 and was bartending by 19 while earning her bachelor’s degree, quickly discovering she thrives in fast-paced, guest-focused environments. After working coast to coast, from Hawaii to Florida, she joined Luminary as a lobby bartender and moved into leadership, now overseeing operations with a primary focus on the hotel’s high-volume rooftop bar, Beacon Social Drinkery. Her dedication to craft and service is reflected by her recent achievement of passing the Level 1 Court of Master Sommeliers certification.

When asked for her inspiration in creating this recipe, she said: “I created the Lemon Crush because I wanted the bold citrus of Deep Eddy Lemon to stand on its own. Behind the bar, you learn quickly that fresh juice is everything, especially in citrus-forward cocktails. It’s what separates a drink that’s fine from one that’s fantastic.

“I’ve had that moment too many times to count. You go up to the bar, order a margarita, watch the tequila go in and then see sour mix come straight from the gun. It’s always a little disappointing.

“Instead, the Lemon Crush starts with fresh Meyer lemon and lime for a crisp, clean edge. Disaronno and simple syrup add balance without overpowering the citrus, letting the flavors stay bright and honest. And to finish it properly, I top it with a quality cherry, and not the kind you’d find on an ice cream sundae.

“The result is a cocktail that’s simple, refreshing, and made with care, the kind of drink I love serving as the sunsets over the water at Beacon Social Drinkery.”

Ingredients:

1 ounce Deep Eddy Lemon Vodka

1 ounce Disaronno

½  ounce fresh Meyer lemon juice

½  ounce fresh lime juice

1 ounce simple syrup

Ice

Filthy cherry (for garnish)

Directions:

Fill a shaker with ice.

Add lemon vodka, Disaronno, Meyer lemon juice, lime juice, and simple syrup.

Shake hard for 8–10 seconds until the shaker is well chilled.

Strain into a rocks glass over fresh ice.

Garnish with one filthy cherry and serve immediately.

The Baker’s Recipe: Meyer Lemon Pavlova

Recipe by Josef Zimmermann, executive sous chef, Luminary Hotel & Co. Boutique Hotels in Fort Myers, Fla., luminaryhotel.com

Bio: Zimmermann grew up in Bad Reichenhall, Germany, and began his culinary career in 1978 as an apprentice at the renowned Brenner’s Park Hotel in Baden-Baden. After completing his apprenticeship, he built an international career across Switzerland, England, Italy and France, rising through the ranks from commis de cuisine to chef de partie, executive sous chef and executive chef.

In 1995, Zimmermann relocated to the United States, serving as executive chef at the historic Pfister Hotel and the Milwaukee Athletic Club. He moved to Fort Myers in 2011, where he opened and operated Sasse’s for a decade. Since 2022, he has served as executive sous chef at Luminary Hotel & Co., where he enjoys collaborating with a passionate team.

When asked for his inspiration in creating this recipe, he said: “Creating the Meyer Lemon Pavlova is a joy, an opportunity to balance bright citrus with soft, delicate textures, while keeping the presentation clean and elegant. I’m inspired by the challenge of turning simple ingredients into something visually striking and competition-worthy. It’s a dessert that feels light, refined, yet crafted with intention.”

Ingredients:

2 Meyer lemons (zest + juice, divided)

1 tablespoon honey

4 large egg whites

1 cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1 teaspoon white vinegar

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons powdered sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla bean paste

1 cup heavy cream

Directions:

1. Candied honey–Meyer lemon zest: Zest Meyer lemons into thin strips. Warm honey and 1 tablespoon of lemon juice in a small pan. Add zest and simmer for 3–4 minutes until glossy. Spread zest on parchment paper and allow it to cool and crisp.

2. Pavlova base: Preheat oven to 250 degrees and line a baking sheet with parchment. Beat egg whites to soft peaks. Gradually add sugar, beating until stiff, glossy peaks form. Gently fold in cornstarch and vinegar. Shape into one large pavlova nest. Bake for 1 hour, then turn off oven and cool inside for an additional hour.

3. Meyer Lemon–vanilla silk: In a saucepan, warm remaining lemon juice, butter and powdered sugar.Whisk until slightly thickened. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla bean paste. Cool completely.

4. Vanilla citrus cream: Whip heavy cream to soft peaks. Fold in half of the cooled Meyer lemon silk.Reserve the remaining lemon silk for drizzling.

5. Assemble: Fill pavlova with vanilla citrus cream. Drizzle with the remaining Meyer lemon silk. Finish with candied honey–Meyer lemon zest.

Barista’s Recipe: Iced Coffee Lemonade (Photo: Hotel Forty Five)

Recipe by McArthur Johnson, sous chef, Hotel Forty Five, Macon, Ga., https://bit.ly/4syBacc

Bio: Inspired by the generational cooking of my parents and grandmother, I developed an early passion for the soul of ingredients. My craft elevates deep-rooted Southern flavors through global techniques, creating sophisticated dishes designed to bring a smile to every face. Beyond cooking, I am dedicated to building strong, cohesive teams, believing that the best culinary experiences are rooted in leadership and collaboration. While my roots are deep, my journey has only just begun.

When asked for his inspiration in creating this recipe, he said: “True refreshment is found in the balance of premium ingredients. This pairing centers on the Meyer lemon, utilizing its unique floral sweetness to bridge the gap between aromatic citrus and the deep, roasted notes of coffee. Offering a sophisticated, ice-cold snap that is as refreshing in the winter frost as it is under the summer sun. It is the enduring appeal of the crisp, the fragrant, and the refined.”

Ingredients:

1 cup Meyer lemon juice

¼ cup simple syrup or to taste

1 cup cold brew coffee

Meyer lemon slices for garnish

Directions:

In a glass or cup add lemon juice and simple syrup mix well. Then pour in cold brew. Add ice cubes and lemon slices (optional).

Chef’s note: The juice is something that can be purchased in a bottle or fresh squeezed. This is recipe is basically a version of Mazagran iced coffee, which is typically made with equal parts of lemon juice and cold brew with a simple syrup as a sweetener. It should be a concentrated cold brew or strongly brewed coffee, so the lemon helps cut it.

Chef’s Recipe: Fennel Salad (Photo: Lauren Grant)

Recipe provided by Lauren Grant, Zestful Kitchen, zestfulkitchen.com

Bio: Grant is a trained culinary food scientist and journalist, food writer and former food magazine editor. Her work has been featured in, America’s Test Kitchen, Better Homes and Gardens, All Recipes Magazine, Midwest Living, Eating Well, Cuisine at Home, Taste of Home and more. She is also the founder of Zestful Kitchen, a food and recipe website devoted to sharing gourmet recipes for everyday cooking.

When asked for her inspiration in creating this recipe, she said: “Fennel is such a wonderful and versatile vegetable, yet often it’s used as an aromatic instead of the main event. The same can be said of lemon. With this salad, I wanted to highlight two things: fennel and lemon. Fennel has an unmatched crispness that softens into a lovely tenderness when tossed with lemon zest, lemon juice, and kosher salt. The ingredient list of this salad is shockingly simple, but it’s all you need.“

Makes 2 cups

Ingredients:

1 fennel bulb, trimmed and very thinly sliced (or shaved)

2 tablespoons chopped fennel fronds

1–2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 lemon (regular or Meyer), zested and juiced

Kosher salt

Cracked black pepper or red pepper flakes

Directions:

Combine fennel, fennel fronds, 1 tablespoon olive oil, 3 tablespoons lemon juice and ½ teaspoon lemon zest in a medium bowl; season to taste with salt, a good amount of cracked pepper and additional olive oil and fennel fronds as needed. Let salad stand 15 minutes before serving (to soften the fennel).

For Grant’s recipe for Meyer lemon Margarita, visit stephenfries.com/recipes.

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

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Festive boards make for easy, tasty New Year’s celebration Enjoy the occasion with a minimum of cooking and plenty of opportunities for creativity.

Festive boards make for easy, tasty New Year’s celebration

Enjoy the occasion with a minimum of cooking and plenty of opportunities for creativity.

The conversation around family dinners this time of year most likely includes plans about how to usher in the new year, both New Years Eve and New Years Day. You might be trying to secure reservations at your favorite restaurant or club, or if you’re like me, what might I do for a joyous “at home” celebration.

When I was younger, who would have thought of staying at home to celebrate. After a multitude of years out on the town, I’m content celebrating at home. Times have changed, and from what I read, even the millennials are more often enjoying the comfort of home. And there’s no reservations nor travel to worry about. In this part of the country, we are also concerned about unpredictable road conditions, plus being out in the cold. I find the quietness of home restorative, turning an ordinary meal into a kind of pause.

So pair the perfect spot in your home with the right foods, comforting music, with simple decorations, and you can make your celebrations top notch. Best, too, you don’t need to be in the kitchen for hours preparing. So, whether it be for New Year’s Eve or the morning after, food boards are the way to go. They are eye-appealing, flexible (including special diets), not labor intensive, and fun to prepare.

There are no rules to prepare the perfect board. Think, low-pressure entertaining. From elaborate charcuterie boards to butter boards, brunch boards, taco boards, dessert boards, and baked potato boards, the sky is the limit. There is no right or wrong way. For inspiration, check out these recipes from “Gathering Boards: Seasonal Cheese and Charcuterie Spreads.” By Sarah Zimmerman Tuthill (2024, Globe Pequot, $27.95)

The author’s approach is different from most others in this genre. She writes, “‘Gathering Boards’ isn’t a typical cookbook filled with recipes using hard-to find ingredients or precise measurements. Instead, think of it as a collection of inspiring images and easy-to-follow ideas that can be mixed, matched, and made your own.”

First, she gets into what you’ll need, how to choose your ingredients. Drink recipes are also part of the repertoire. Whether it be a mocktail or not, what is the holiday celebration without a toast to welcome in the New Year. Photos of boards allow the cook to get creative. It worked at the Mediterranean and taco board programs I hosted last summer. The six groups were each given photos, and did they create the most interesting show pieces. All that is needed is a bit of inspiration.

My best wishes for a happy and healthy New Year.

On the Bagel Board:

Baked Goods: bagels, biscotti, croissants, muffins, scones

Protein: smoked salmon

Spreads: cream cheese, goat cheese

Toppings: capers, tomatoes

Line a basket or platter with a colorful cloth or paper napkin. Place the salmon and goat cheese on small plates, and spoon cream cheese and smaller berries into mason jars or ramekins. Place those items in the basket and begin adding the baked goods — The author uses mini bagels and bite-size muffins because they are easy to eat and allow for more variety. Fill in with fresh fruit, herbs, and edible flowers.

On the Wreath Board:

Cheeses: Manchego, Brie, mozzarella balls

Charcuterie: Genoa salami, spicy and milk salami

Extras: red and green Cerignola olives, red pearl peppers, almonds, dried and whole oranges, fresh herbs (rosemary, bay leaves, sage)

On the Eat your Veggies Board:

Dips: Mom’s Dill Dip (recipe below), Store-bought hummus

Vegetables: purple kale, bell peppers, rainbow carrots, baby zucchini, grape tomatoes, cucumbers, snap peas, celery, rainbow cauliflower, radishes

Mom’s Dill Dip

The headnote says, “I can’t remember the last time, if ever I made this dip using measurements. After so many years, I just toss the ingredients together and it always seems to work. But here’s a start. Give it a test then add more dill, onion, or seasoning mix to your taste.

½ cup sour cream

½ cup mayonnaise

1 tablespoon dried onion

1 tablespoon dried dillweed

1 teaspoon Beau Monde seasoning

Mix all ingredients together and refrigerate for at least an hour before serving to allow the onions to soften and flavors to mix. Serve with veggies for dipping, or on top of roasted salmon for a refreshing sauce.

On the Mediterranean Board

Dolmas: stuffed grape leaves, often found in cans near olives

Cheese: Feta (block or crumbled)

Dips: Humus, tzatziki

Baked goods: pita bread, sliced into triangles; spanakopita (phyllo layers filled with spinach and feta cheese, often found in the frozen section)

Veggies: Greek olives, cherry tomatoes, halved; cucumbers, sliced

Fruits and nuts: fresh figs or fig preserves, grapes, pistachios

On the Baked Potato Board

Potatoes: baked and sliced in half

Veggies: broccoli, steamed; corn; grape tomatoes, halved; green onions, chopped; peas

Cheese: shredded cheese of choice (cheddar, pepper jack, smoked gouda)

Proteins: bacon, cooked and crumbled; ham, diced

Condiments: cheese sauce, hot sauce, ranch dressing, sour cream

Holiday Grasshopper

¾ cup crème de cacao

¾ cup crème de menthe

8 scoops vanilla or chocolate chip ice cream

Place all ingredients in a blender and blend until incorporated.

Garnish with mint or rosemary. To make it more decadent, add a chocolate-covered pretzel rod.

Makes 4 cocktails.

Recipes by Sarah Zimmerman Tuthill, Photography by Kari Hilton Photography, Globe Pequot

Stephen Fries, is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College, in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 18 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, CT and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. [email protected] For more, go to stephenfries.com

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Bake up a holiday classic This year, why not give the cookie cutters a rest, bring out a Bundt pan and give a Bundt cake the spotlight.

Bake up a holiday classic

This year, why not give the cookie cutters a rest, bring out a Bundt pan and give a Bundt cake the spotlight.

The baking of endless trays of cookies has begun. They can be exchanged among friends and family, tins can be filled to be given as gifts; and a batch can be made on which the baker can munch.

It’s those recipes handed down through the ages, often handwritten on index cards, most likely stained and frayed that make up the repertoire of cookies baked. This year, rather than talking cookies, I decided to write about another nostalgic treat, the Bundt cake.

Often the feature centerpiece at a holiday party dessert table, they can take many shapes, from the classic ridges of a Bundt pan to intricate designs such as wreaths, Christmas trees, castles, even a Star of David. One of the niceties is that they don’t require piping of frosting, labor-intensive fondant- coverings or intricate decorations.

Bundt cakes are classic, nostalgic and don’t require hours preparing. This year, why not give the cookie cutters a rest, bring out a Bundt pan and give a Bundt cake the spotlight. With the right shape, seasonal flavor and simple topping, taking a detour with a Bundt can say happy holidays as well as any tray of cookies can.

I’ve got my two Bundt pans ready along with recipes from “Beautiful Bundts: 100 Recipes for Delicious Cakes & More” by Julie Anne Hession (2017, Robert Rose, Inc., $24.95).

Perhaps what comes to mind is a scene from the movie  “My Big Fat Greek Wedding,” where the groom’s mother brings a Bundt cake as a hostess gift that is given to the bride’s mother.

The conversation went like this: “What is it?” “It’s a Bundt.” “A boont?” “Bundt.” “A bonk!”

Frustrated, the mother of the groom said, “Bundt! Bundt!” Then, the bride’s mother said, “Oh! It’s a cake!”

Walking away with her friend she says, “There’s a hole in this cake!”

The history of the Bundt pan is quite interesting. Although the cake has European roots, the Bundt pan was created in the United States; some of the original pans are on exhibit at the Smithsonian.

Interesting facts from the intro section: It was in the early 1950s when a few Jewish women from the Minneapolis Hadassah Society contacted brothers David and Mark Dahlquist, the founders of Minneapolis-based Nordic Ware. The women were inquiring if the company could craft a more modern style of the Gugelhupf pan. It was used in Jewish communities in Switzerland, Poland, Germany and Austria to bake a ring-shaped cake containing nuts and dried fruit. This version was made from aluminum rather than cast iron.

Why call it Bundt? The German word “bundkuchen” was the inspiration, a cake whose name brings two words together: “bund,” meaning group, gathering or bundle, and “kuchen,” meaning cake.  The pan’s creators hoped the name would bring people together. The t was added to bund, and Bundt was trademarked.

“The original bundt pan featured fluted, or grooved, sides, which served as markers for even slices, and a central tube or ‘chimney,’ which created a hole through the center of the cake,” the author writes. “This shape allowed more batter or dough to come into contact with the pan’s surface than in traditional round or rectangular cake pans, encouraging even distribution of heat during the baking process, thus eliminating the jiggly center often associated with deeper pans.”

The Bundt pan was not a success originally. What saved it from failure? It was in 1966 when Ella Helfrich entered the Pillsbury Bake-Off and created the now-famous Tunnel of Fudge cake using her Bundt pan. Her cake came in second, and as the author writes, “The cake was an overnight sensation — in today’s terms, it went viral.”

The author discusses equipment and tools, key ingredients, preparing the pans and mixing. She then introduces specialty Bundts, such as yeast-raised Bundts, layered and swirled, filled and pull-apart Bundts.

The savory Bundts chapter shares recipes to make the perfect holiday brunch dish. For example, Baked Brie and Spicy Raspberry Jam or Macaroni and Four-Cheese Bundt. Recipes for Mini Bundts include Bananas Foster, Monkey Bread Bundts and Orange-Glazed Rum Raisin Bundts.

Holidays are covered as well: Holiday Eggnog, Funfetti Birthday, Spiced Pumpkin with Salted Caramel Glaze, Spiced Citrus Fruitcake Bundt. Recipes for glazes and sauces are included at the end. With 100 recipes, all showing mouth-watering photos, you just might end up with a personal Bundt pan collection. Get started with these recipes from the book.

For the recipe for Savory Caprese Strata Brunch Bundt go to https://stephenfries.com/recipes.

Check out this video featuring the Bundt pan. You’ll even see an excerpt from “My Big Fat Greek Wedding.” https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8NSRfMfW38

Spiced Citrus Fruitcake Bundt

Makes 12 to 16 servings

Tip: You can use any combination of dried fruits, including golden raisins, cranberries, currants, chopped dates, figs, apricots or cherries, blueberries or diced pineapple, in any proportions you like. Just make sure to keep the total volume to 4 ½ cups

Make ahead: This cake can be made up to 3 weeks in advance. Wrap the cooled (undusted) cake tightly in plastic wrap, then foil, and store in the refrigerator. Let Bundt stand at room temperature for 1 hour before serving. Dust with confectioners’ sugar just before serving.

Ingredients:

4 ½ cups mixed dried fruit (see tip)

1 cup dark rum or brandy (approximately), divided

Grated zest of 1 large lemon

Grated zest and juice of 1 large orange

2 ½ cups all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

½ teaspoon ground allspice

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

1 ½   cups packed light brown sugar

1 cup unsalted butter, softened

3 large eggs, at room temperature

3 tablespoons dark (cooking) molasses

Confectioners’ sugar, sifted

Directions:

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Minimum 10-cup Bundt pan, sprayed.

In a medium saucepan, stir together dried fruit and 1⁄2 cup rum. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Remove from heat and stir in lemon zest, orange zest, and orange juice. Let it stand for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, ginger, allspice, and cloves.

In the stand mixer bowl, beat brown sugar and butter on medium speed for 4 minutes or until light and fluffy. Beat in eggs, one at a time. Beat in molasses. Add fruit mixture, including any unabsorbed liquid. On low speed, beat until fruit is evenly blended. Transfer batter to the prepared pan and smooth the top.

Bake in a preheated oven for 65 to 80 minutes or until a tester inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. Let cool in the pan for 10 minutes, then carefully invert the cake onto a wire rack.

Using a pastry brush, brush top and sides of warm cake with 1⁄4 cup rum, letting it soak in before you add up to 1⁄4 cup more. Let cool completely. Dust with confectioners’ sugar before serving.

Gluten-Free Banana Chocolate Bundt

Tips: For best results, puree bananas in a food processor until smooth. Mashing bananas by hand often leaves several lumps, so the banana flavor isn’t evenly distributed.

Most grocery stores now have a section of gluten-free foods, which is where you can find many of the ingredients in this recipe. Natural food stores are also a good place to look.

For best results, wrap the cooled cake tightly in plastic wrap and store at room temperature or in the refrigerator overnight before glazing.

You can prepare this cake up to 2 days in advance. Store the glazed cake in a cake container at room temperature or in the refrigerator. (I prefer chilled, as it creates a fudgy texture for the glaze!)

Ingredients:

1 ½ cups brown rice flour

2⁄3 cup sweet white rice flour

2⁄3 cup potato starch

½ cup almond flour

6 tablespoons tapioca starch

1 ½ teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon xanthan gum

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground cardamom

½ teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup granulated sugar

½  cup packed light brown sugar

¾ cup unsalted butter, softened

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 large eggs, at room temperature

1 ½  cups pureed or mashed ripe bananas (see tip)

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

½  cup sour cream (not fat-free)

1 ½  cups semisweet or dark chocolate chunks

1 recipe Chocolate Glaze (recipe below)

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees; if using dark pan, 325 degrees. Minimum 12-cup Bundt pan, sprayed

In a large bowl, whisk brown rice flour, sweet white rice flour, potato starch, almond flour, tapioca starch, baking powder, xanthan gum, baking soda, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger and salt.

In the stand mixer bowl, beat granulated sugar, brown sugar, butter and oil on medium speed for 3 minutes or until light and fluffy. Beat in eggs, one at a time. Beat in bananas and vanilla.

With the mixer on low speed, alternately beat in flour mixture and sour cream, making three additions of flour and two of sour cream, and beating until incorporated. Beat in chocolate chunks. Transfer batter to prepared pan and smooth the top.

Bake in preheated oven for 60 to 70 minutes or until puffed and golden and a tester inserted in the center comes out clean. Let cool in pan for 15 minutes, then carefully invert cake onto a wire rack to cool completely (see tip).

Pour glaze over the cooled cake, letting it drip down the sides. Let glaze set for at least 20 minutes before serving.

Chocolate Glaze

Ingredients:

5 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped

½ cup heavy or whipping cream

1 ½ tablespoons light corn syrup

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Directions:

In a small saucepan, stir together chocolate, cream and corn syrup over medium-low heat until melted and smooth. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla. Let cool slightly before drizzling over cake.

Retro Cranberry Mold

Makes 12 to 14 servings

Tips: To avoid an ugly white film on the jelly after unmolding, do not use nonstick baking spray with flour for this recipe.

Fresh cranberries are usually available September through December. Store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 1 month or in the freezer for up to 1 year. One bag yields 3 cups. An equal amount of frozen cranberries will also work in this recipe.

Make ahead: For best results, serve this recipe the day it is unmolded, but you can prepare it up to 2 days in advance. Store in an airtight container or covered in plastic wrap in the refrigerator.

Ingredients:

1 ½  cups port wine

3 cinnamon sticks

1 cup dried cranberries

1 bag (12 ounces) fresh cranberries (see tip)

12 ounces frozen cherries (about 1½ cups), coarsely chopped

1 cup packed light brown sugar

1⁄4 teaspoon salt

3 cups cranberry juice cocktail, divided

3 envelopes (each 1⁄4 ounce) unflavored gelatin powder

Directions:

Minimum 10-cup Bundt pan, sprayed with nonstick cooking spray

In a large saucepan, bring port, cinnamon sticks and dried cranberries to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat and simmer for 10 to 12 minutes or until port is reduced by two-thirds.

Stir in fresh cranberries, cherries, brown sugar, salt and 2 ½ cups cranberry juice cocktail. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 8 to 10 minutes or until mixture thickens and cranberries burst.

In a medium bowl, sprinkle gelatin over the remaining cranberry juice cocktail. Let stand for about 5 minutes or until gelatin softens.

Whisk about 1 cup  of the hot juices from cranberry mixture into the gelatin mixture until gelatin has dissolved. Add gelatin mixture to the saucepan, whisking until blended.

Carefully pour hot cranberry mixture into prepared pan and let cool to room temperature. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or overnight, until set.

Submerge bottom of chilled pan in a bowl of warm water for 30 to 45 seconds. Using a thin knife or the tip of an offset spatula, separate the top inner and outer rims of the Bundt from the pan to loosen and release the suction. Carefully invert Bundt onto a plate or platter, giving it a few minutes to unmold if it doesn’t pop out right away. Serve chilled.

Photos and recipes courtesy of “Beautiful Bundts” by Julie Anne Hession, copyright 2017,  www.robertrose.ca. Reprinted with permission. Available where books are sold.

Text copyright 2017, Julie Anne Hession; photographs copyright 2017, Julie Anne Hession; step-by-step photographs copyright 2017, Christie Vanover; cover and text design copyright 2017, Robert Rose Inc.

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

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Cookbooks make great holiday gifts Here are some ideas for the people on your list.

Cookbooks make great holiday gifts

I recently led a culinary tour in Florida, where one of the guests looked in the swag bag of food-themed items, one of which one was a cookbook.

“I love reading cookbooks, although very few recipes are made,” she said.

During the three-day tour, she bought a cookbook written by the chef of a restaurant where we dined. It was the family stories and photos of the food that led to the purchase.

It reminded me of a quote from comedian Rita Rudner: “I read recipes the same way I read science fiction. I get to the end and say to myself, ‘Well, that’s not going to happen.’”

With the plethora of cookbooks published, it is apparent they are here to stay. They serve a purpose, whether they be a prop in the kitchen, a coffee table book with a glossy cover with a mouth-watering visual, or used as a guide to preparing food, eventually having stained pages with handwritten notes in the margins and dog-eared pages from years of use.

Your holiday gift list probably includes those who enjoy hosting dinners and brunches, a seasoned cook looking for inspiration, a beginner who desires to learn the basics, a parent who has a busy schedule but wants to cook healthy dinners, a want-to be mixologist or a home baker looking to expand their repertoire of bread, cake and cookie recipes.

And let’s not forget children, who gain confidence and accomplishment while learning a bit of science, math, healthy eating habits as well as global cuisines. Add to all this…what child doesn’t enjoy licking the bowl!

Here are some gift ideas for those on your list, starting with a title for young bakers.

“Sweet & Salty: King Arthur Baking Company’s Cookbook for Young Bakers” by Jessica Battilana with Yekaterina Boytsova (2025, Simon & Schuster Books for Young Readers, $21.99) will have the future bakers roll up their sleeves and get that rolling pin rolling out the dough.

The book begins with easy-to-understand tips including “cleaning is part of baking,” “never bake alone,” “if you need help, ask for it” and “to share what you’ve baked.” It then introduces, complete with images, the tools of the trade and frequently used pans. The 10 quick lessons for baking success include the best way to measure, the best way to line a pan with parchment, how to keep eggshells out of your food and choosing a just-right recipe.

From tarts and cupcakes to pan pizzas and stuffin’ muffins and empanadas three ways, the recipes encourage creativity. Peppered throughout are answers to common baking questions: what is an egg wash, what is macerating fruit and how to knead dough by hand.

For the more advanced baker, although the author designed the book with both new and experienced bakers in mind, “German Heritage Baking: Time-Honored Recipes, Traditional Techniques and Culinary Secrets Volume I,” by Heidrun Metzler (2024, Metzler Books, $32.99) has been recognized with honors including the American Legacy Book Awards for best international cookbook and best interior design and the National Indie Excellence Awards.

The recipes use an old-world approach and were written to give bakers the ability to successfully make German-inspired desserts. If you’ve tasted European pastries, you’ll probably agree that they are less sugary, allowing the flavors to shine.

The introduction’s “Four Crucial Variables in Baking” makes all the difference to baking success, Metzler writes. The book invites home bakers into Germany’s storied baking heritage with recipes for Black Forest Tortes to Cinnamon Star Cookies to Gingerbread Houses and Linzer Tortes. The headnotes are a peek into Metzler’s passion for baking. A helpful feature are the QR-linked videos that help achieve professional results.

For those on your list who enjoy food, history and traditions of Christmas, “The Gilded Age Christmas Cookbook: Cookies and Treats from America’s Golden Era 1868-1900,” by Becky Libourel Diamond (2025, Globe Pequot, $34.95) provides a glimpse into this era of affluence and opulence.

You’ve probably heard of sugar plums (think the poem “A Visit from St. Nicholas.”) But do you know they’re not sugar-dusted plums? The book shares a recipe adapted from the Gilded Age, dried figs, pitted dates, dried apricots almonds, brandy and confectioners’ sugar. The recipient of the book will enjoy recipes not only from this era, but also the fascinating history of them. They’ll learn about the fascination with bonbons, why place cards were on the Christmas dinner table and the history of the Christmas tree among snippets of Christmas lore of that time.

The book includes a chapter on Hanukkah in the Gilded Age, including recipes. The New Year’s chapter shares interesting history as well. Did you know that during this era, New Year’s cookies were typically flavored with caraway seeds, lemon, and sometimes apple cider or nutmeg.

Some home cooks are fearful about using spices. “How to Add Flavor: An Introduction to Spices & Herbs,” by Ian Hemphill and Kate McIntosh (2025, Robert Rose, Inc., $24.95) will take that fear away by demystifying the seasoning process. For each of the 15 spices and herbs, the authors cover the aromas, flavors and pairings. A highlight of this title is “Spice & Herb Tutorial” where four recipes, each using one protein (chicken, beef, salmon, tofu), and how swapping out one spice or herb can changeup the dish.

For those on your list who enjoy entertaining, perhaps it is you, a copy of “Gathering Boards: Seasonal Cheese and Charcuterie Spreads,” by Sarah Zimmerman Tuthill (2024, Globe Pequot, $27.95) is a must. The board craze is amazing. A plethora of books, websites and videos, teaching the art of creating food boards (charcuterie, cheese, dessert) are available. There’s even a company that ships beautifully prepared gift boards. Boards make entertaining easy, whether it be for a formal dinner, brunch or a casual afternoon tea.

“You don’t have to be a culinary genius to throw a good party. In fact, you don’t have to know how to cook at all,” Tuthill writes. “By merely presenting food and drinks in an inventive, beautiful, or whimsical way, you can turn the ordinary into the extraordinary…I started focusing on how to display food, rather than preparing it.”

Tuthill covers how to choose the board, knives, cheese, charcuterie, and how much to prepare. Chapters are broken down by season. And what goes well to pair with the board … wine. That’s covered, too.

“12,167 Kitchen and Cooking Secrets: Everyday Tips, Hints, Techniques and More,” by Susan Sampson (2009, Robert Rose, $24.95) would be welcome in any kitchen. Sampson shares the fruits of her “addiction” in this compendium of the collection she curated.

For example, how do chefs get more juice from a lemon, three ways to add moisture for fluffier popcorn, 12 ways to make cookies crispier. Whether browsing through or seeking an answer to a specific cooking question, the recipient will keep this book in easy reach.

Introduced in 2017, Starbucks introduced egg bites, and they have become a popular breakfast food, high in protein, low in carbs and perfect for grab and go. The egg bite maker is an easy way to make them at home. A Hamilton Beach Egg Bites Maker Plus (the one I have) coupled with a copy of “Seriously Good Egg Bites: 75 Recipes Using Your Egg Bite Maker” by Marilyn Haugen (2024, Robert Rose, $19.95) makes a gift that the recipient will appreciate with recipes for perfectly fluffy egg bites bursting with ingredients: smoked salmon and dill, classic bacon and cheddar, quinoa power bites and vegan carrot coconut bites  The recipes are written with the ingredient list for 2,4,6 or 8 bites because of the variety of egg bite makers available. This gift is perfect for college students, too.

“The Flower-Infused Cocktail: Flowers, with a Twist,” by Alyson Brown (2023, Globe Pequot, $29.95) caught my attention when looking for a book for those who like to create unique cocktails. It is a fresh take on mixology.

“I hope this book gives you inspiration to celebrate flowers beyond the vase,” Brown writes.

Before getting to the recipes, glassware, bar tools, and edible flower awareness are discussed. Both cocktails and mocktails using 60-plus edible flowers, each with beautiful photos, are presented. From the artichoke flower (yes, I too, was surprised it is a flower, in the same family as the sunflower) as an ingredient in the Late-Night Carousel to the Secret Garden using rose petals, it is fascinating to learn how flowers are used as well as floral history and folklore. It may make the recipient delve more into flower-infused libations.

Unlimited, ad-free access to more than 1,000 of the world’s best cookbooks

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Swipe to browse each cookbook from cover-to-cover

Manage your subscription via the My Membership page

For those serious cooks on your list, give the gift of good cooking: https://join.ckbk.com/gift is the ultimate digital subscription for anyone who loves to cook. The ckbk app gives searchable access to more than 1,000 curated cookbooks, including new titles and nostalgic classics. It’s like Spotify for cookbooks! A year’s subscription is $39.99, six months is $24.99. This gift is addicting for cookbook lovers, and I’m one of them.

In addition to the books, here are a few other gifts to consider.

Most people wouldn’t know the name Dorcas Reilly but will know a recipe she cooked up 70 years ago that is prepared in millions of kitchens this time of the year. Can you guess the dish? Why, of course, the green bean casserole. To celebrate this milestone, celebrity Chef Chadwick Boyd and the Phi Upsilon Omicron national honor society for family and consumer sciences have teamed up to launch “Green Bean Casserole for Good.”

It’s a nationwide campaign celebrating Dorcas, the woman who created the original recipe, and raising funds to support the next generation of food innovators.

“Each T-shirt contributes to the fund, which supports research and innovation in food, nutrition, hospitality and family sciences, ensuring Dorcas’s creative spirit lives on in the next wave of trailblazers,” Boyd said.

Buy two T-shirts and the recipient will receive a free digital e-book, “Make it Worth It: Green Bean Casserole 70th Anniversary Edition: 7 Foolproof Recipes of America’s Beloved Holiday Classic.”  It includes the story of Dorcas Reilly and a modern take on the holiday favorite. Find it at www.chadwickboydlifestyle.com/shop.

Among my favorite cookies are Mrs. Hanes’ Moravian Cookies. The shop was recently named the No. 5 cookie shop in America by USA Today readers. When in Winston-Salem, N.C., stop by, but if your travels don’t bring you there, they can be purchased online at www.hanescookies.com.

Whether it’s one tube or their six-pack gift box (one of each flavor), the recipient won’t be able to eat just one of these handmade cookies. I’ve visited the bakery and can attest they are made the old-fashioned way, with rolling pins and cookie cutters. Check out the video on the website.

Spice blends save time and money. I’m always on the lookout for creative blends and came across Spiceology at www.spiceology.com.

Their website says, “At Spiceology, the love of flavor drives us to keep dreaming and pushing the boundaries of what’s possible in a spoonful of spices.”

Those cooks on your list will be amazed with the quality and creative blends. The website is chock full of recipes. From gift packs, bundles and individual bottles, the spice combinations are amazing: Greek Freak (a favorite of mine), Tandoori Glory, Chili Margarita, Raspberry Chipotle … the names are as creative as the blends.

My best wishes for happy holidays and let the shopping begin, that is if it already hasn’t.

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

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Fall is pumpkin season It can be baked, boiled, steamed, fried and roasted. The blank canvas is waiting for culinary creativity.

The chef’s recipe: Pumpkin Soup (Courtesy of Epicurean Hotel)

Fall is pumpkin season

It wouldn’t feel like fall without pumpkin everything, from pancakes to ice cream, cocktails to of course, pumpkin spice lattes, which were introduced in 2003 by Starbucks and trademarked PSL 20 years ago.

With pumpkin’s versatility and adaptability, I queried a chef, pastry chef, mixologist and a barista as to what they would create using the seasonal gourd.

It can be baked, boiled, steamed, fried and roasted. The blank canvas is waiting for culinary creativity. Pumpkin seed oil is used to make salad dressing. The roasted seeds are a healthy snack. Using pumpkin puree and syrups expands its use. I gathered the ingredients to make pumpkin cream cheese … really simple to make: cream cheese, pumpkin puree, brown sugar, pumpkin pie spice and vanilla extract. It’s simply perfect to spread on a bagel or crackers, use as a frosting on pumpkin bread or as a dip for fruit.

Pumpkin 101

• The word pumpkin is derived from the Greek word “pepon,” which means large melon.

• It is a squash and part of the cucurbita family.

• Six of Earth’s seven continents can grow pumpkins.

•  Morton, Ill., is considered the Pumpkin Capital of the World, being the home to Nestle’s/Libby’s pumpkin processing plant, where 85% of the world’s pumpkin is canned.

• The Irish brought the tradition of carving a pumpkin to the United States.

• According to The Guiness Book of World Records, https://bit.ly/3LmRziz: The largest pumpkin pie ever made was by New Bremen Giant Pumpkin Growers at the Pumpkinfest (New Bremen, Ohio) in 2010. It was 20 feet in diameter and weighed over 3,699 pounds. It used 1,212 pounds of canned pumpkin, 525 pounds of sugar, 2,796 eggs, 109 gallons of evaporated milk, 14 pounds of cinnamon, 7 pounds of salt, 440 sheets of dough and took 13 hours to bake.

• In Colonial times, pumpkins were used as an ingredient for the crust of pies, not the filling. Colonists sliced off pumpkin tips; removed seeds and filled the insides with milk, spices and honey. This was baked in hot ashes and is the origin of pumpkin pie.

• Pumpkins were once recommended for removing freckles and curing snake bites.

 (Photo: Courtesy of Bryce Wade)

The Mixologist’s Recipe: Pumpkin Espresso Martini

Recipe by Bryce Wade, bar manager at BAR, New Haven, Conn., https://www.barnightclub.com. Originally from Virginia, Wade, moved to Connecticut in 2020, bringing with him a strong foundation in craft cocktails developed during his time bartending in Richmond. Since then, he’s competed in several bartending competitions, earning multiple top-three finishes and a few wins.

Wade joined BAR in 2021 and quickly became a familiar face behind the counter. Known for its high-energy atmosphere and welcoming vibe, BAR has been a downtown New Haven staple since 1991. The venue brews its own beer — making it the oldest continuously operating brewery in Connecticut — and transforms into a lively nightclub every Friday and Saturday.

When it comes to cocktails, Wade loves getting creative and pushing boundaries, but he admits it’s tough to top a classic like pumpkin spice. The inspiration for his Pumpkin Spice Espresso Martini came from exploring local coffee shops and seeing how they embraced the seasonal favorite.

“I realized I couldn’t not have a pumpkin spice drink,” he said, and it has since become one of BAR’s most popular cocktails.

For Wade, bartending at BAR is about more than mixing drinks — it’s about creating an experience that brings people together from all walks of life.

Ingredients:

2 ounces Absolut Vanilla

¾  ounce Pumpkin Cream Liqueur

1 ounce Atomic Cold Brew Concentrate*

½ ounce Atomic Coffee Liquor*

Directions:

To make the drink, shake and double strain the cocktail into a martini glass, then garnish with a dusting of cinnamon.

*Atomic Black coffee liqueur is sold at most liquor stores. For the cold brew concentrate, you can use any brand from the grocery store, but we prefer Atomic Black because it’s New England-based and high-quality.

The Chef’s Recipe: Pumpkin Soup

Recipe by Jon Atanacio, executive chef, Epicurean Hotel, Tampa, Fla., https://www.epicureanhotel.com.

With more than 20 years of culinary experience, Chef Atanacio draws on his Puerto Rican and Italian heritage to continue to raise the bar in the local dining scene.

The culinary-focused Epicurean Hotel is in the trendy Hyde Park historic district of South Tampa, down the road from the picturesque waterfront of Bayshore Boulevard. The hotel’s primary themes, Grow, Create, Imbibe and Indulge, can be seen in the artwork and design throughout the property. Center stage is the Epicurean Theatre, a unique setting to foster culinary education with a wide variety of food-focused presentations and cooking demonstrations.

Serves 6-8

Ingredients:

2 small pumpkins, cut in half and seeds removed

Salt and pepper to taste

3 tablespoons olive oil

1/4 pound butter

1/4 bunch sage, roughly chopped, stems and leaves

½ Spanish onion, thinly sliced

4 Granny Smith apples, cored, thinly sliced

1 quart water

1 cup heavy cream

Apple cider vinegar and maple syrup to taste

Tools:

2 large soup pots, 7-quart size is best

Blender

Heat-proof rubber spatula.

Large baking sheet

Large kitchen spoon

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Salt, pepper and olive oil the pumpkins. Place face down on baking sheet. Roast the pumpkins face down. Cook them until a knife can pierce them with no resistance.

In the large soup pot, add the butter and put the flame to about medium-high. Brown the butter.

Once butter is browned, add sage. Caution, the herbs will pop. Once sage is added, add onions, apples and cooked pumpkin flesh, season well. Saute vegetables, stirring every few seconds for about 5 minutes until onions are translucent. Add water and cream. Reduce heat. Simmer for about 20 minutes. Once simmering is done, remove from heat.

In batches, start blending the soup. Caution, do not fill blender to the top; it will splatter because of the heat. Place into second pot.

Once all soup is blended, adjust seasoning and add maple syrup and apple cider vinegar to taste.

(Photo: Courtesy of Fenway Hotel)

The Baker’s Recipe: Spiced Pumpkin Molasses Cake With Creme Fraiche Frosting

Recipe by Chef Bert Shedd, chef de partie, Fenway Hotel, Dunedin, Fla., www.fenwayhotel.com.

Across from the tranquil, turquoise waters of the Gulf of Mexico is the beautifully appointed 83-room boutique Fenway Hotel. The hotel reopened in November 2018 after having played many different roles in Dunedin’s history since it first opened in 1927. It is an icon of the jazz age, playing host to musicians and legends during the times it operated as a hotel. It was the home to the first radio station in Pinellas County, where broadcasting occurred from its roof. Today, the Fenway’s Hi-Fi Rooftop bar is the place to be and be seen, especially at sunset. The jazz theme carries on throughout the hotel. HEW Parlor & Chophouse is the perfect place to dine in a cozy corner or at the chef’s counter in the center of the action.

Ingredients:

Cake:

2 cups pumpkin, peeled and small diced (about 18 ounces, 500 g)

1¾ sticks (¾ cup / 200 g) unsalted butter, cut into pieces, plus some to coat baking sheet and springform pan

⅓ cup granulated sugar (about 2¼ ounces / 65 g), plus extra for coating pan

1 cup dark molasses (about 12 ounces / 340 g)

¾ cup packed brown sugar (about 6 ounces / 165 g), divided

2¾ cups all-purpose flour (about 13¾ ounces / 390 g)

¼ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon baking soda

½ teaspoon ground ginger

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 large eggs

1½ cups whole milk (about 12 ounces / 340 g)

1 cup chopped walnuts (about 7 ounces / 200 g)

1 cup chopped dried dates (about 7 oucnces / 200 g)

Creme Fraiche Frosting:

1 cup creme fraiche (about 9 ounces / 250 g)

1 cup confectioners’ sugar (about 9 ounces / 250 g)

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Prepare the pumpkin: Peel and dice pumpkin into small ⅓-inch (8 mm) cubes. Spread on a lightly buttered baking sheet and roast for about 10 minutes, just until slightly tender. Cool completely.

Prepare the pan: Line bottom of 12-inch springform pan and grease with butter, sprinkle with about ¼ cup of granulated sugar.

Make the molasses mixture: In a medium saucepan, melt butter over medium heat. Add molasses, brown sugar, and remaining granulated sugar. Whisk until sugars dissolve completely. Remove from heat and cool slightly.

Combine dry ingredients: In a large bowl, whisk together flour, salt, baking soda, ginger, and cinnamon.

Add wet ingredients: Whisk milk and eggs into the cooled molasses mixture. Slowly pour this into the dry ingredients, whisking until smooth and lump-free.

Add mix-ins: Fold in the roasted pumpkin, walnuts, and dates.

Bake: Pour batter into the prepared pan, sprinkle a bit of sugar on top, and bake for 1 hour, 15 minutes, or until a cake tester inserted in the center comes out clean.

Cool: Let cake cool in pan for 20 minutes, then spread the Creme Fraiche Frosting over the top. Allow cake to cool completely before removing the springform ring.

To prepare Creme Fraiche Frosting: In a bowl, whisk together creme fraiche, confectioners’ sugar, and vanilla until smooth and creamy. Chill until ready to use.

(Photo: Courtesy of Alexis Miller)

The Barista’s Recipe: Pumpkin Spice Latte

Recipe by Speckled Hen, Strasburg, Lancaster County,  www.SpeckledHenCoffee.com

Speckled Hen is a farm to table restaurant. Founders Ryan and Janae Dagen have been serving locals and guests from afar for 10 years with a focus on quality food and beverages curated with fresh, local and simple ingredients all served in a welcoming atmosphere.

The name Speckled Hen represents a value for diversity and embracing each other’s differences. The Dagens wanted to create a space where all would be welcome to grow in community and in appreciation for delicious food and beverage. They believe the unique attributes or speckles we possess is what makes a community so rich and beautiful. Speckled Hen provides a meaningful space for friends, neighbors and strangers to meet, learn and grow. It is their belief that when we embrace our differences an even more beautiful type of community can be discovered and enjoyed!

The Hen is also symbolic of our love for local farm culture, a heritage Ryan and Janae grew up surrounded by in Lancaster County. Ryan’s mom was born into an Amish family, affording him the opportunity to grow up eating wonderful Lancaster farm favorites made fresh by his mom, aunts and grandparents. Janae’s family farm, the Runnymede in Quarryville, Lancaster County, has been family run for over 50 years and supplies the eggs served daily in The Hen’s breakfast favorites.

Inspiration in creating the recipe: “We make every syrup/sauce from scratch at the cafe. Since PSL’s are a favorite seasonal beverage, we wanted to make a simpler and more natural version of this popular drink. Our pumpkin spice sauce is made dairy free so that folks with different allergy needs can still enjoy!”

Ingredients and directions:

Prepare a double shot of espresso.

Add 1 ½ ounces of Pumpkin Spice Sauce* and stir.

Add 8 ½ ounces of steamed milk and pour into the espresso to integrate the flavors through the drink.

Top with a sprinkle of cinnamon.

*Pumpkin spice sauce is available at specialty food shops, online, or better yet here is an easy recipe to make it https://bit.ly/4qPi2G0.

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

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Dorie Greenspan’s cookbook features simple yet memorable cakes But don't fret if your creations aren't perfect. The joy of sharing the holiday spirit is what counts.

Dorie Greenspan's cookbook features simple yet memorable cakes

Dorie Greenspan is a five-time James Beard award-winning author, New York Times bestselling writer and beloved baking authority. (Nancy Pappas)

I can tell the holiday baking season has begun when I see the glossy and colorful, culinary magazine covers plus new and classic baking cookbooks on display, showcasing masterpieces that might intimidate.

They may leave us thinking: my cakes won’t look like that. Whether it be fruitcake, gingerbread, yule log, red velvet cake with a swirl of cream cheese frosting or a chocolate cake draped in ganache and sprinkled with edible glitter, the covers inspire and remind us of the aroma of something sweet in the oven. And the fun, but chaotic kitchen, holiday baking brings about.

Don’t fret if your cakes aren’t perfect. More importantly, the joy of baking and sharing the holiday spirit is remembered long after the last bite.

Recently off the press is “Dorie’s Anytime Cakes” by Dorie Greenspan (2025, HarperCollins Harvest, $35). This collection of recipes is for simple, yet most-memorable cakes. The award-winning author of 15 cookbooks created thousands of recipes, and like many of us do, she comes back to certain ones. In Dorie’s case, it’s the simplest cakes.

“Some may have a dusting of powdered sugar or a drizzle of icing, but most are straight-from-the-oven cakes that are great as is,” she said. “They’re cakes that you probably already have all the ingredients in your pantry.”

The comprehensive headnotes are a delight to read, each telling a personal story about the recipe.

Greenspan’s background is fascinating, and I appreciated that she answered a few questions, and shared the recipes that follow.

For the recipes for Grandmother’s Honey Cake; Simplest, Plainest, Most Old- Fashioned — and Best-Tasting — Marble Cake; and Caramel-Nut Chocolate Upside Down Cake, visit https://stephenfries.com/recipes.

Grandmother’s Honey Cake (Nancy Pappas)

Simplest, Plainest, Most Old- Fashioneda — and Best-Tasting — Marble Cake (Nancy Pappas)

Caramel-Nut Chocolate Upside Down Cake (Nancy Pappas)

Meet Greenspan at Cookbooks and Convos next Sunday for the book launch and cake party at Weitzman National Museum of American Jewish History, 101 S. Independence Mall East in Philadelphia. Get tickets at https://bit.ly/3Lw5sLm.

What gave you the idea to write “Dorie’s Anytime Cakes”?

I was creating three unfussy holiday cakes for The New York Times and calling them “kitchen cakes” — they were the non-showstoppers, the cakes that would sit on the counter inviting people to have a nibble as they came in and out of the kitchen.

As I was working on these recipes, I was reminded of how much I love simple cakes, how comforting they are and how satisfying they are to make. I hadn’t been planning to write this book, but the pleasure of making those three cakes was so great that I didn’t want to stop.

Of course, those cakes are in the book. They are Baked-in-a-Skillet Gingerbread, Maybe-This, Maybe-That Ham and Cheese Loaf and the Holiday Bundt, which is the cake on the book’s cover.

What’s the most you recipe in this book, the one that feels like your signature in edible form?

Another near-impossible question. I love recipes that have a touch of whimsy. I love the ones that might be a play on a classic or a new way of looking at something we know well. And so, I love recipes like the Chocolate and Almond Tabby-Not-Tiger Cake, a plain cake with a great glaze and a funny backstory; the Moko Cake-O, a cake version of a chocolate-chunk, rye and cranberry cookie; and the Rum-Raisin Visiting Cake, a revisit of a cake I’ve adored for ages. Oh, and the Devil’s Chocolate Cake, another treasured recipe made new. You didn’t think you were going to get a one-and-done answer, did you?

I’m going to a dinner party with a cake from your book. What am I bringing to impress?

I love bringing something that looks simple but is full of flavor or has an unexpected texture. I might bring the Cafune Corn Cake, which is made in a blender and baked in a Bundt pan — I love Bundts because they make every cake look gorgeous. Or the Berry Yogurt Cake, which is so easy that it’s the first cake French children learn to make, but which, with a little glaze and some fruit, goes from kitchen to cake stand in a flash.

What do you want people to take away from “Dorie’s Anytime Cakes?”

Happiness! I want people to enjoy making simple, satisfying, delicious cakes. I want them to look at the cakes they made and be proud of what they did. (I still give my cakes a little love pat when they come out of the oven — I’m always so pleased with them). And I want people to share what they’ve made with their family and friends. The take-away from baking should always be joy.

Cocoa-Swirled Pumpkin Bundt

Make sure that you choose pure pumpkin puree, not pumpkin pie filling, which is sweetened and spiced. While there are different versions of pumpkin puree available — many supermarkets have their own brands — if you can, I suggest you buy Libby’s. It is the most consistent, it has a beautiful color and, most important, it’s not watery — it always bakes well.

Makes 12 servings

Ingredients:

For the Swirl:

3 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder

Pinch of fine sea salt

Pinch of group cinnamon

¼ cup (50 grams) finely chopped dark chocolate or mini dark chocolate chips

For the Cake:

3 cups (408 grams) all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking soda

1 ½  teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 ½ teaspoons ground ginger

3/4 teaspoon fine sea salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 cup (240 ml) neutral oil

1 ½ cups (300 grams) sugar

1/2 cup (100 grams) brown sugar

3 large eggs, at room temperature

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1 can (15 ounces; 425 grams) pure pumpkin puree

Directions:

To make the swirl:

Mix the sugar, cocoa powder, salt, cinnamon and chocolate together in a small bowl and keep at hand.

To make the cake:

Center a rack in the oven and preheat it to 350 degrees.

Coat the interior of a 12-cup Bundt pan with baker’s spray or butter it, dust with flour and tap out excess.

Working in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or in a large bowl with a hand mixer, beat the oil and both sugars together on medium speed for a couple of minutes to blend well — the mixture should look slushy, like wet sand.

Still beating on medium, and scraping the bowl and beater(s) early and often, add the eggs one at a time, beating for about a minute after each one goes in. The mix will continue to look iffy until that last egg is in and then, as if by magic, it will become satiny.

Reduce the mixer speed and blend in the vanilla and pumpkin puree.

Turn the mixer off, add one-third of the dry ingredients and pulse the mixer on and off to get the blending going and to help prevent the counter from getting showered with flour.

Working on low speed, mix until the dry ingredients are almost incorporated. Turn off the mixer, scrape and add half of the remaining dry ingredients. Pulse, mix on low, stop and scrape again, then add the last of the dry ingredients, mixing on low until fully blended. Give everything a few last turns with a flexible spatula.

Scrape one-third to one-half of the batter into the pan and smooth it with the spatula.

Spoon the cocoa swirl over the batter — you can try to make an even layer and prevent the swirl from touching the sides of the pan, but it’s almost impossible, so relax.

Add the rest of the batter — it will only half fill the pan, but it will rise considerably in the oven.

Bake for 55 to 60 minutes, or until the cake is beautifully puffed, is cracked around the top and pulls away from the sides of the pan when gently tugged. A tester poked into the center of the cake should come out clean — make sure you don’t hit the gooey swirl.

Transfer the pan to a rack and let the cake rest for 10 minutes, then turn it out onto the rack and allow it to cool to room temperature.

Once the cake is cool, you can dust it with confectioners’ sugar, or you can glaze or ice it.

Baked-in-a-Skillet Gingerbread

While I love how this cake looks made in a cast-iron skillet, it will bake nicely in a 9-inch springform pan. Watch the baking time; it will need between 40 and 45 minutes in the oven —start testing at the 40-minute mark.

A word on the crystallized sugar: Like all dried fruit, crystallized ginger can harden, and hard fruit is unpleasant. To soften the ginger if it’s tough, soak it in very hot water for a minute, then drain and pat dry.

A word on the topping: I’m crazy about the crunch you get when you double sugar under Swedish or pearl sugar. It’s a wonderful touch, but an extra one — the cake is fine left plain or dusted with confectioners’ sugar just before serving.

Makes about 12 servings

Ingredients:

2 cups plus 2 tablespoons (288 grams) all-purpose flour

1/2 cup (68 grams) whole wheat flour

2 teaspoons ground ginger

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves (or freshly grated nutmeg)

2/3 cup (133 grams) sugar

1/3 cup (67 grams) brown sugar

5 tablespoons (2½ ounces; 70 grams) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1/3 cup (80 ml) neutral oil

1 large egg, at room temperature

1/3 cup (80 ml) unsulfured molasses

3/4 cup (160 ml) apple butter, plain or spiced

1/4 cup (60 ml) full-fat buttermilk (well shaken before measuring), at room temperature

1/3 cup (45 grams) finely chopped crystallized ginger (see above)

About 2 tablespoons sanding or turbinado sugar for topping (optional)

About 3 tablespoons Swedish pearl sugar for topping (optional)

Directions:

Center a rack in the oven and preheat it to 350 degrees.

Coat a 10-inch cast-iron skillet with baker’s or cooking spray. If you don’t have a skillet, use a 9-inch springform pan (see page 41).

Whisk the all-purpose flour, whole wheat flour, ginger, cinnamon, baking soda, salt

Working in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or in a large bowl with a hand mixer, beat the granulated and brown sugars together with the butter at medium speed for about 3 minutes — you’ll have a pasty mixture.

Pour in the oil and beat for another 2 minutes — the batter will thin out and become creamy. (Don’t wash the measuring cup — use it for the molasses. The oily slick that’s left in the cup will help the molasses slide out easily.)

Scrape the bowl and beater(s) now and again — this is sticky business. Add the egg and beat for a minute.

With the mixer on low, beat in the molasses, followed by the apple butter and another scraping.

Add half the flour mixture and mix until it just disappears into the batter.

Blend in the buttermilk, followed by the remainder of the dry ingredients.

When they’re almost incorporated, mix in the ginger. You’ll have a thick, fragrant batter — take a beat to enjoy the aroma.

Scrape it into the pan, nudging it into the corners and smoothing the top.

Sprinkle over the sanding or turbinado sugar and then top with the pearl sugar, if you’re using these (and I hope you do).

Bake for 43 to 48 minutes (if you’ve used a springform, start checking after 40 minutes), or until the top of the gingerbread is uniformly puffed all the way to the middle, the cake pulls away from the sides of the pan with a gentle tug and, most important, a tester inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean.

Transfer the skillet to a rack and let the cake cool until it’s just warm or has reached room temperature before cutting.

Recipes from “Dorie’s Anytime Cakes” by Dorie Greenspan. Copyright 2025 by Dorie Greenspan. Used with permission by Harvest, an imprint of HarperCollins. All rights reserved. Illustrations by Nancy Pappas.

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.

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Find comfort in the kitchen when autumn arrives With chilly days and nights, preparing seasonal cuisine in the oven helps bring the warmth we welcome.

Apple cider doughnuts and cider are fall favorites. (Karen Peltier Riggert)

Once autumn arrives, we are inclined to spend more time in the kitchen, the room that many consider the heart of the home.

With chilly days and nights, preparing comforting seasonal cuisine in the oven helps bring the warmth we welcome, unlike the heated days of summer, where we enjoy cooking and dining alfresco.

I’ve always wondered why I am hungrier come fall, craving hearty meals, many of which are seasonal favorites enjoyed throughout the years, especially soups, casseroles and stews, incorporating the bounty of fall … apples, pumpkin, squash and root vegetables. There are people who dig out those tattered and stained index cards, handwritten with recipes that were handed down through the generations.

Returning home from an afternoon of hayrides, finding your way through a corn maze, stopping at roadside farm stands and cider mills, you have probably worked up an appetite.

Additionally, stops at pick-your-own orchards connect us to nature and the harvest, while letting us enjoy the backdrop of the kaleidoscope of fall colors. I know I’d be ready to reap the benefits of the crops I picked by firing up the oven and preparing some of my favorites. The aromas of cinnamon, nutmeg and maple are so inviting and comforting as we retreat indoors.

It is the perfect season to pull “The New England Orchard Cookbook: Harvesting Dishes & Desserts from the Region’s Bounty” by Linda Beaulieu, with photography by Karen Peltier Riggert (2016, Globe Pequot, $24.95) from one of my bookcases.

If you are planning a trip to New England to enjoy magnificent colors that surround these orchards or would like to be inspired to add creative recipes to your repertoire, the book is ideal. It is filled with recipes from dozens of New England orchards, some that have cider mills and many that are iconic with rich histories. You’ll probably want to snap some photos of the scenery. Beyond recipes, the author takes you on a tour of the orchards, talks about life and work at these farms. The photography is superb.

Beaulieu begins by describing the nuances of various crops. She then covers the orchard cycle and etiquette. The chapters are broken down by the six New England states. The directory of orchards is helpful in choosing your route, depending on what states you wish to visit.  You’ll find recipes sweet and savory, paying homage to local farm’s bounty. Let’s get cooking with these recipes.

The recipe for Chunky Apple Bars comes from Smolak Farms in North Andover, Mass. (Karen Peltier Riggert)

Chunky Apple Bars

Recipe from Smolak Farms, North Andover, Mass.

Makes 12 servings

Ingredients:

Filling:

4 cups cored and coarsely chopped apples (about 2 large apples)

¼ cup water

1 tablespoon honey

1 teaspoon cinnamon

Crust:

¾ cup butter, softened

2 tablespoons cane sugar

2 cups oats (regular or quick cooking)

1 ½ cups white flour

½ cup whole wheat flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon cinnamon

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9 x 13-inch pan

To make filling:

Combine the chopped apples, water, honey, and cinnamon in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer uncovered for about 5 minutes or until the apples are slightly soft. Remove from heat.

For the crust: cream the butter and sugar in a latge mixing bowl. Reserving 2 cups for the topping, add the oats, flours, baking powder, and cinnamon. Mix well. Press the crust into the bottom of the prepared pan, and bake in the 350 degree oven for 12 minutes.

Spread the cooked apple filling over the baked crust. Sprinkle the reserved oat mixture over the top of the filling.

Bake for 15-20 minutes, or until the top is browned nicely. Cook. Cut into bars.

Carrot and Apple Soup recipe is provided by Belltown Hill Orchards in South Glastonbury, Conn. (Karen Peltier Riggert)

Carrot and Apple Soup

Recipe from Belltown Hill Orchards, South Glastonbury, Conn.

Makes 4-6 servings

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons butter

1 large onion, roughly chopped

3 medium Golden Delicious apples

2 pounds carrots

14-15 ounces chicken or vegetable broth

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon peeled and grated fresh ginger

2 cups water

Half and half or heavy cream, as desired

Fresh chives for garnish

Directions:

In a 5-quart Dutch oven, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onions and cook for 12 minutes or until tender and golden, stirring occasionally.

Meanwhile, peel the apples and carrots. Cut each apple in half and use a melon baller to remove the core. Cut the apples and carrots into 1-inch chunks.

Add the apples and carrots to the onions. Add the broth, sugar, salt, ginger, and water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes or until the carrots are very tender. Remove the Dutch oven from the heat.

Using a hand blender, puree the mixture right in the Dutch oven until very smooth. Serve the soup with a swirl of half-and-half or cream, if you like, and garnish with fresh chives.

Cider Brined Turkey

Recipe from Russell Orchards, Ipswich, Mass.

The headnote says: “Brining has become a popular trend in recent years, first at innovative restaurants and then with home cooks. Brining is much like marinating, but the usual purpose is to moisten the meat rather than add flavor. Here, the talented cooks at Russell Orchards share their recipe for brining a turkey with cider.”

Makes 8 servings (with leftovers for sandwiches)

Ingredients:

2 quarts plus 1 cup apple cider

1 cup kosher salt

½ cup light brown sugar

1 cup soy sauce

16 whole black peppercorns

8 whole star anise pods

6 garlic cloves, smashed

6 scallions, white parts only, trimmed, split lengthwise

6 (1/4-inch thick) slices unpeeled fresh ginger

5 dried shitake mushrooms

2 cinnamon sticks

2 springs cilantro

1 ½ gallons cold water, plus 3 cups water

1 (12-14 pound) turkey

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

2 sweet-tart apples (Crispin, Cortland, or Granny Smith) cut into 6 pieces each

Melted unsalted butter or vegetable oil

Directions:

In a very large pot, bring the 2 quarts of cider and next 11 ingredients to a boil, stirring to dissolve the salt and sugar. Let cool to room temperature. Stir in the water.

Add the turkey to the brine and press down to submerge. Cover and refrigerate overnight.

Remove the turkey from the brine and pat dry with paper towels. Discard the brine. Season the turkey lightly inside and out with salt and pepper.

Place it, breast side up on a rack set in a large heavy roasting pan. Tie the legs together with kitchen twine. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Combine the remaining cup of cider and 3 cups of water in the roasting pan. Scatter the apples around. Brush the turkey with butter. Flip the turkey to breast side down. Roast the turkey, basting occasionally, for 1 hour in the 375 degree oven.

Using paper towels to protect your hands, flip the turkey. Roast, basting occasionally, until a meat thermometer registers 165 degrees, another 1-1 ½ hours.

Transfer the turkey to a platter and let it rest for 20 minutes before carving.

Meanwhile, strain the juices from the roasting pan into a saucepan, reserving the apples. Simmer over medium heat until the juices have thickened, about 10 minutes. Serve the cider  jus alongside the turkey and apples.

Zucchini-Apple Bread

Recipe from Blue Jay Orchards, Bethel, Conn.

Makes 3 loaves

Ingredients:

4 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking soda

¼ teaspoon baking powder

1 1/s tablespoons ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground nutmeg

5 eggs

2 cups sugar

1 cup firmly packed brown sugar

1 ½ cups vegetable oil

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

2 cups shredded zucchini (3 medium)

1 cup shredded apple (1 medium)

1 ½ cups chopped pecans

Directions:

In a large bowl, combine the first 5 ingredients. Set aside.

In another large bowl, combine the eggs, sugars, oil, and vanilla. With an electric mixer, beat at medium speed until well blended. Stir in the zucchini, apple, and pecans. Add dry ingredients, stirring just until moistened.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Spoon batter into 3 greased and floured 8 x 4-inch loaf pans (approximately 3 inches deep). Bake for 50-55 minutes, or until a wooden pick inserted into the center comes out clean.

Allow the breads to cool in their pans for 10 minutes. Transfer the pans to a wire  rack to cool completely.

Recipes provided by respective orchards, courtesy of Globe Pequot Publishing.

Stephen Fries is professor emeritus and former coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College in New Haven, Conn. He has been a food and culinary travel columnist for the past 17 years and is co-founder of and host of “Worth Tasting,” a culinary walking tour of downtown New Haven, and three-day culinary adventures around the U.S. He is a board member of the International Association of Culinary Professionals. Email him at [email protected]. For more, go to stephenfries.com.