Around the Web: The Southeast Takes on Sake
Surprised this morning to find that there are actually two restaurants now in Asheville, NC that are, if not devoted to, then at least sake-centric. Blue Kudzu has been open since early this fall, and now today, I just wumbled across a noodle shop that serves sake and has plans in the works to brew their own, curiously called Ben's Tune Up.
The last time I passed through Asheville, was on a day this fall when Blue Kudzu was closed, and just learning about BTU now, I have no choice but to hurry back down there when I get the chance.
The thing that got me thinking, is a quote from the above article from co-owner of BTU, Jonathan Robinson, about brewing sake:
“In Japan, these traditions are passed down from generation to generation...We’re just trying to figure out what is tradition and what is necessary. There’s going to be something inherently American about our sake."
On first read, I thought maybe he was thinking of two mutually exclusive groups. But actually, I don't think that Mr. Robinson is trying to say "if something is tradition, it isn't necessary."
The reality is that brewing good sake is a process that requires tight control, precise handling and monitoring. There is a real temptation to say "Is all this really necessary?"
Certainly, the centuries of sake brewing techniques demand respect, anyone who has been to Japan and tasted the sake there knows that, but, the century or so has shown that techniques, and ingredients can be improved.
After all, the labor-intensive yama-oroshi process used to be considered an essential step in the brewing process until someone proved it wasn't.
So, innovation vs. tradition. The issue is up for grabs in N.C. Which side are you on?
I personally am very excited to sidle up the bar at both of these places and pick their brains a bit.
A new tradition I am fairly sure is not necessary, but interesting nonetheless :
http://ajw.asahi.com/article/behind_news/social_affairs/AJ201311300050
Read a little more about Ben's Tune Up here