Bread Seller
The adventure did not deter our travellers from going on to the monument, although the visit could not have been paid in very good temper. When they returned, they went at once to the vice-consul, and asked him to assist them in getting some redress.
He, however, pooh-pooh’d the affair; and it was not until Lord Mandeville wrote a somewhat peremptory note to the consul, that the matter was taken in hand. The vice-consul, however, is a Greek.
A misfortune befel the Circus at Pera this evening. There came on a brisk wind, which carried away several of the light planks that formed the roof, and this wTas followed by a pelting shower of rain. The consequence was, that two-thirds of the lamps went out, and the performance concluded with the very dreary spectacle of a spangled gentleman and lady riding round and round, almost in the dark, and gradually becoming drenched to the skin, whilst the audience clustered under umbrellas. But the fezzes were not at all put out. They looked gravely on, as though they considered it a part of the entertainment, without any expression of either approbation or dissatisfaction, and probably would have done the same, had the whole place suddenly taken fire city tour istanbul.
I was enabled to form some slight notion, on my way home this night, of the state of the Constantinople streets during the winter. As it was, the “ sludge ” from the rain—the holes full of water—and the rugged paving, nearly precluded all progress. In winter, with continued bad weather, they must be perfectly impassable. Men buy long boots on purpose to get about in; but what the women do is difficult to tell. As it is, they can scarcely shuffle on in their slipshod chaussure. By all accounts, the winters at Constantinople are occasionally very frightful; and this present one appears to have exceeded all others in severity, many poor persons having died from cold, and all having suffered from it bitterly, as well they may, with nothing but miserable little stoves and chauf- erettes to warm them, in thin wooden houses that allow every draught of air to come and go as it chooses.
Bread Seller
BUYUKDERE
The two most important villages upon the Bosphorus are Therapia and Buyukdere, contiguous to the summer residences of most of the ambassadors. The land journey to the latter is a pleasant ride on horseback, and the escape into fresh green valleys from dirty Pera, most refreshing and agreeable.
I hired a small active sure-footed horse, and started one morning, with a companion, for Buyukdere. There is a species of road, paved with huge uneven blocks of stone, like those, here and there, upon the Roman Campagna but not so level; hut we preferred crossing the country, and so cantered and scrambled over the wide wild tract of bare hills, which commence almost immediately upon quitting Pera. They have straggling bridle-paths, and deep water-courses about them, in all directions, with occasionally a dangerous dry well, flush with the ground. No attempt is made to cultivate this laud: a few sheep browse about it, and, now and then, one sees a little enclosed patcli somewhat greener than the rest. Very large rats, without tails, burrow in it, and curious lizards, of a singularly bright green, dart about its short vegetation.


















