Amritsar - a place of tranquility and beauty
Last weekend’s trip to Amritsar was my first exploration of the Punjab, and what a fascinating and beautiful region it is! (Although I am yet to dislike any place in India!)
We arrived at Amritsar Junction early in the morning and shoved our way elbows first towards the exit (as only a woman can in India) to be greeted by a new breed of Cycle Rickshaw, one which involves a precarious balancing act when carrying two passengers as the seat is a solid dome atop the cart. After brief, ungainly struggles on both of our parts we were seated, but I have to confess that the journey was uncomfortable for another reason. In the first few weeks in India I rarely took Cycle Rickshaws, opting for the motorised alternative, owing to the simple fact that the sun is slamming its severe heat on the pointed shoulders of these frantically pedalling men who appear to suffer excruciating exhaustion. So when I noticed that we had a very aged, hearing-aid clad Rickshaw wallah who confessed to us that he was in his eighty second year, (and proceeded to transport us at a painfully slow pace) the awkward embarassment returned with a vengeance. By the time we had to disembark to help him up a hill the sour taste had well and truly returned to my mouth. However, equally, and obviously, this man has to earn a living too, and this experience has made me notice that Indians approaching Rickshaw stands will make a shameless beeline for the youngest, and thus presumably fastest, cyclists. Maybe the awkward consciousness is felt by even the most seasoned of Rickshaw travelers.
The tourism in Amritsar is very different to that which I had experienced elsewhere in India - the sole appeal of the city is the holy Sikh Golden Temple, so the influx is of religious pilgrims, chiefly Indian and usually only in the city for a mere twenty four hours. As a result, hotels have televisions and air conditioning (regarded as a must by Indian tourists) but little atmosphere, and at the budget end of the scale are hideously modern expanses! But woven into the ugly, a mirage amidst a desert of tattered havelis, stands the truly sublime, sparkling white marble structure of the Golden Temple complex. After covering my head and shoulders, (something I tend now to do at every ‘sight’ as it seems to go some way to preventing us white tourists from becoming the tourist attraction itself), removing my shoes and bathing my feet, I was swept in a wave of saris and shalwars, from the incessant clamour of the streets in to the totally tranquil surroundings of the Amrit Sarovar. This is the lake within the walls of the temple and the translation of the name is ‘Pool of Immortality-giving Nectar’. Everywhere naked babies are being immodestly dunked into the holy waters and semi-naked Sikh men submerge themselves at the pool edge. The richly gilded golden Harmandir rises from the middle of the lake and it is from here that the Gurus sing the age old songs of Guru Nanak, from sunrise to sunset, and these hypnotic melodies are piped live for all to hear. The movement of the vibrantly coloured masses clockwise around the pool is surprisingly rapid, but somehow serenity is maintained here there is no shoving. It is rich in tragic modern political history as well, and the scars of disputes, even as recently as the 80s can be seen, and the bullet marks of Indira Gandhi’s Operation BlueStar have been preserved in the memory of those soldiers and civilians who died. Without wishing to sound lazy, it is difficult to verbalise the sirenic beauty of this exquisite place, the Sikh’s most holy Gurdwara, but Kaja’s stunning photographs go some way to explaining the place.
When I say influx, do not take this word lightly - the Gurdwara recieves some 200,000 worshippers daily, and the Langar Hall affiliated to the Temple serves 60,000 visitors a day and often even more on high days and holidays. This tradition of Langar is that of a free community kitchen and is in keeping with the Sikh tradition of sharing food and a blessing with all, irrespective of religion. I could even see this attitude echoed in the open and particularly friendly dispositions of the Punjabi people; this is a culture that effuses warmth and hospitality. Naturally, we joined in on the fun. A steady stream of colour was advancing towards piles of metal plates and cutlery so we followed suit and soon found ourselves sat cross-legged in lines, in a vast hall over looking the Harmandir. The food - rice pudding and then chana masala and chapati - was absolutely delicious and it is a marvel to me that the gigantic chapati machines, numerous volunteer cooks and hundreds of ‘washer-uppers’, can meet the demand at such extraordinary speed, in fact creating a meal for which I would happily have paid 100 rupees!