EXCLUSIVE: DANIEL POLLITT SPRING SUMMER 2015 'BUGEISHA'
The talented Royal College of Art graduate, Daniel Pollitt first caught our eyes after being named a finalist in Muuse and Vogue Talents. After then being selected for last year's Selfridges Bright Young Thing initiative, we knew he would be a name to watch. Selfridges' Bright Young Thing initiative not only saw the instore launch of his eponymous label, but additionally a dedicated storefront window curated by Pollitt himself. Now presented through The December Agency, Est Noir are proud to present Daniel Pollitt's Spring Summer 2015 collection 'Bugeisha'.
A Bugeisha - an abbreviation of Onna-Bugeisha - describes an ancient female warrior belonging to Japan's upper-class, who answered the call of duty by engaging in battle. The Bugeishas were commonly known for fighting alongside Samurai men to protect their household, family and honour in times of war. However, these warrioresses seem to have only acquired mere recognition throughout historical records. Their covert heroism and spirit inspired Pollitt's Spring 2015 homage to the Bugeisha, through modern day warrior-like silhouettes, enhanced through volume and the freedom to move.
Jackets are strapped tightly with d-rings, whilst delicate cotton tapes create an overt contrast by billowing out from the fabric creating movement. Pollitt toys with the idea of protection through his garments; with a distinct toughness and durability to the pieces without constraining the wearer. Airtex mesh fabrics line rich cotton shirts, reflecting Pollitt's dedication to unify Avant Garde luxury and sportswear.
Tightly fitted pieces are avoided, unless desired. Casual shapes have the feeling of strength and simplicity; for example, a floor length full circle skirt worn with a raw edge cut leather bodice evokes authority. Bugiesha requires a strong sense of self and femininity in unison with a softer air of vulnerability, which is not to be misinterpreted as weakness.
Pollitt drew inspiration from Akira Kurosawa’s 1985 film 'Ran' for his 'rich yet grimy' colour palette, this is reflected through the use of teal green, burnt red and ochre, which are injected into a profusely black base. An air of purity within the collection is imperative to Pollitt, however by taking elements from the visual nature of 1920’s Russian Constructivism posters, Pollitt adds complexity and structure to the pieces.
Amongst the dissipation in a time of excess and materialism, Pollitt explores an organic curiosity for simplicity and purity. Pollitt maintains ongoing commitment to the female physique and meticulous craftsmanship reflects his own personal commitment to his aesthetic. Through his Spring Summer 2015 collection, Daniel Pollitt gives recognition to the Bugiesha, who represented a divergence from the traditional 'housewife' role of the Japanese woman and successfully revives them into the modern day.
Photography- Kala Hubner Hair and Makeup- Krisztina Csinos Model- Elaine S C Ng Assistant- Maciek Wojciechowski
