#elephant pass

[davidstanleytravel]

During a 1991 battle the Tamil Tigers launched this armoured bulldozer loaded with explosives toward an army camp near Elephant Pass, Sri Lanka. A Sinhalese soldier stopped the attack with grenades, saving his unit while sacrificing his own life.

[davidstanleytravel]

An army monument overlooks Elephant Pass, a strategic channel crossed by a causeway where many pivotal battles took place during the 1983-2009 Sri Lankan civil war.

[bandi42]

  Eighteen of us left Colombo at dawn in a little green bus in a little green bus, crossed the Kelani River – the fourth longest river in the country at 145 km, and took the A3 expressway to Katunayaka. Jaffna is 400 km north of Colombo and we would be on the road for at least eight hours.

The road runs through Muthurajawela Wetland, a 3000 ha saline peat bog which is the largest in the country. It was a rice field in the time of ancient kings of Lanka until coastal tides inundated the fields with sea water. In the 18th century, the Dutch constructed a series of dams and canals in an unsuccessful attempt to drain the fields. In 1802, the British built a 14.5 km canal connecting the original Dutch Canal and waterways and named it Hamilton Canal after the then Government Agent of Revenue and Commerce in Ceylon – Gavin Hamilton. Muthrajawela was declared a wetland sanctuary in 1996 and today supports 192 species of flora and 209 species of fauna including 102 bird species. Muthrajawela Visitor Centre runs 90-minute guided boat tours through Hamilton Canal and the wetlands.

Negambo Lagoon adjoining Muthurajawela is a 35 square kilometre shallow lagoon with a maximum depth of 1 meter.

We left the A3 at Katunayaka, skirted the International Airport and drove towards Kurunegala past the historic rock town of Dambadeniya.

Dambadeniya was the capital of Sri Lanka in the mid 13th century. King Vijayabahu III (1232-36), who was displaced from Polonnaruwa, the then capital of the country, by invaders from India, built a new city with fortifications, a royal palace and a temple for the tooth relic of the Buddha at Dambadeniya. During the reign of King Parakramabahu II (1236–70), Dambadeniya reached the zenith of its glory with the King’s immaculate poetic masterpieces making a turning point in Sinhalese literature.

We stopped for breakfast at Crown Field Hotel in Narammala. The place was being set up for a wedding lunch for 750 guests. The hotel still managed to serve a good Sri Lankan breakfast of string hoppers, boiled rice, excellent freshly baked bread and a selection of not too spicy curries.

We bypassed Kurunegala, surrounded by coconut plantations, and drove into Anuradhapura – the first capital of Sri Lanka, established in 500 BC. Today it is part of the Cultural Triangle with many historic and religious buildings. As we drove through, I had a glimpse of the two-story railway house where I spent many happy school holidays during the time my father – a railwayman, was stationed in Anuradhapura.

Entrance to Anuradhapura

Our old house

We stopped for mid-morning tea at the smart, open-sided Green Park Restaurant in Anuradhapura. Service was slow, there selection of snacks was poor but the toilets were clean and relatively odour free.

We reached the bustling northern town of Vavuniya in time for lunch at Nelly Star Hotel which again was set up for a wedding reception. A miserable lunch of fried rice with fish and chicken was served in the tacky dinning room. I would give this sad place a wide birth. A simple rice & curry meal at Madawachchiya Rest House would be a better option.

Beyond Vavuniya, the land looks parched and lush green vegetation gives way to scrubland with tall Palmyra Palms. Cattle still roam the busy A9, ignoring the traffic. Gun totting Traffic Police find a shady spot to wait for hapless motorists committing minor traffic offenses. You have to surrender your driving license, pay a fine at the nearest post office and then reclaim your license from the police officer. “They are more than willing to take a bribe and let you off the hook” our driver said with knowing smile.

We drove through Omanthai. Thankfully, the annoying Omanthai army checkpoint established during the Civil War in Sri Lanka is no longer there. Together with the military base, it was dismantled in 2015 and the land returned to the rightful owners.

Kilinochchi which was the administrative centre and de facto capital of the LTTE (Tamil Tigers) during the Civil War looks peaceful today. The war memorial no longer has armed guards and the massive water tower blown up by the LTTE during the Civil War has beed removed.

Victory memorial at entrance to Kilinochchi depicting a block of concrete representing Tamil Tigers cracked by a bullet from the Sri Lankan forces. A flower of peace blossoms at the top. (2014)

2018

A giant water tank, blown up by Tamil Tigers during the conflict

Where ‘s all the water gone?

Iranamadu Irrigation Tank, one of the biggest in Sri Lanka is situated 5 km south-east of Kilinochchi. Originally built in 400 AD by King Dhatusena, it was renovated and upgraded in 1902. During the Civil War in Sri Lanka, Tamil Tigers used the reservoir as a sea-plane base.

Iranamadu tank in 2014

Elephant Pass is the causeway spanning the shallow lagoon that separates the Jaffna peninsula from the rest of the island. As the gateway to the Jaffna peninsula, it has been a strategic military base since 1760, when the Portuguese built a fort, which was later rebuilt and garrisoned by the Dutch in 1776. A modern military base was built there in 1952 by the Sri Lankan Army. It was a major battle ground during the Civil War in Sri Lanka. The lagoon used to be the island’s largest saltern producing 60,000 – 80,000 metric tons of salt per annum and supplied 30 to 40% of the total salt requirement of the country.

The lagoon was completely dry and there were no birds to be seen in the adjoining bird sanctuary. We stopped briefly at the war memorial next to the smart new Elephant Pass railway station. The northern line which was destroyed during the Civil War was rebuilt but the trains remain the same.

We reached Jaffna at 4.30 in the afternoon and checked in at the Valampuri. The journey with three stops, took 11 hours.

Practicalities

See also the 2014 blog post “Great North Road“

Muthurajawela Visitor Centre boat trips cost Rs.1200 (£6) per person. http://www.muthurajawelavisitorcentre.org Tel: [phone]

Crown Field Hotel, Kurunegala Road, Narammala. Tel: [phone]

Nelly Star Hotel, 84, 2nd Cross Street, Vavuniya 43000 Phone: [phone])

My trip to Jaffna was arranged and led by Padmini Hussein of Flamingo Tours.

  ff

Road To Jaffna – 2018 Eighteen of us left Colombo at dawn in a little green bus in a little green bus, crossed the…

[bandi42]

“…It is exciting to be on the A9, weaving my way through the Tiger heartland for the first time…”

There are cows, dogs and mad drivers on the road. Cops hide behind trees, waiting for easy pickings. My betel chewing driver spits a jet of red betel juice out of the window and just manages to miss a woman motorcyclist wearing a bright green sari. Palmyra trees stand erect and still by the roadside. This is the A9 to Jaffna.

At Omanthai checkpoint, at the entrance to Wanni, there is minimum fuss. No documents are checked and no inspections made for undesirable foreigners. I am finally on my way to the heartland of the Tigers.

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Palmyra Trees

Omanthai checkpoint

New station

Iranamadu Tank

‘Tank’ over here means a reservoir and Iranamadu is one of the giants, built in 400 AD. The country is dotted with them, built by ancient kings. During the civil war, Tigers used to land sea-planes here.

The narrow road off the A9 is lined with army camps. A soldier comes out of his corrugated iron barracks to take visitors on conducted tours. A Buddhist temple is sprouting near the canteen which is selling tea and snacks. ‘Rehabilitated’ women Tigers from a ‘welfare village’ make handicrafts in a shed. They are camera shy and are reluctant to talk to visitors.

“Did you carry a gun?” I asked one. She nodded and smiled.

“Did you kill many?” I asked again.

“It is best to forget the past” she said and walked away.

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Kilinochchi

Then I drive in to bustling Kilinochchi – the de facto capital of Tamil Eelam.

Victory memorial at entrance to Kilinochchi. A block of concrete representing Tamil Tigers is cracked by a bullet from the Sinhalese forces. A flower of peace blossoms at the top.

A giant water tank, blown up by withdrawing Tamil Tigers in December 2008. The tank supplied water to the whole of Kilinochchi area.

Elephant Pass

Elephant Pass is a magical place. It is an isthmus connecting the Jaffna peninsula to the main body of Sri Lanka. It used to be the Island’s largest salt field. In 1760, the Portuguese built a fort to control access to the peninsula, rebuilt and garrisoned by the Dutch in 1776 and later taken over by the British. A modern military base was built there in 1952 by the Sri Lankan Army. It was the scene of major battles between Tamil Tigers and the Sri Lankan Army.

Both ends of Elephant Pass have elaborate war memorials. Army run kiosks sell plastic orchids which the grateful Sinhalese place in front of the statues. The orchids are endlessly recycled.

Fishing nets are stretched on both sides of the isthmus and the lagoon is thick with waders.

Jaffna

Jaffna is full of classic cars, with or without coffins.

I reach Jaffna in time for lunch. Pillayar Inn is basic but the Jaffna Tamil cuisine there is out of this world! I start with a fantastic Kool, a Jaffna version of bouillabaisse with crab, prawns, cuttlefish and white fish flavoured with chilli and tamarind (see recipe below). Jaffna Nadu rice and crab curry follow. It is one of the best meals in a long time.

 Looks like I am in for  great time in Jaffna!

Jaffna kool recipe : SBS Food

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  Great North Road "...It is exciting to be on the A9, weaving my way through the Tiger heartland for the first time..."