Bunad Basics: the Terminology
What does "bunad" mean? How is it different from a "festdrakt" and what on earth is a "fantasistakk"?
On this blog I use a number of terms that may be confusing if you're not already immersed in the world of historical fashion and traditional Norwegian folk costumes. Since my goal here is to make this world more accessible to anyone who may be interested, I figured I should make a glossary of sorts.
Illustrations by Johan F. L. Dreiers
This is an umbrella term that refers to any complete costume has been constructed using traditional techniques.
While the word "costume" today has connotations to playing a character in, say, a show -in this context it simply means an outfit.
From old norse: búnaðr.
May be directly translated as "to be used at home".
In modern Norwegian the word refers to a type of formal folk costume that represents the traditions of a specific geographical area. The platonic ideal of the bunad is that it should show exactly where you are from, where you consider your "home". Not every adult norwegian has a bunad, but it's common to recieve one from a family member as your 15th birthday gift. You're expected to only own one bunad for the rest of your life (unless you pass it on to the next generation).
There are around 450 distinct bunads in Norway, according to Store Norske Leksikon. While there tends to be a common consensus of what regional traditional costumes are considered real bunads and not, there is no official registry of bunads. The number of 450 is an estimation, and there tends to be disagreements on who is allowed to call their folk costume a bunad.
Some bunads have deep roots and has been in continoous use for hundreds of years, while others are only loosely based on a few archeological finds. The definition is often up for debate.
Left to right: Festdrakt originating from Tromsø, Northern Norway, and Senja
May be directly translated as "celebration-costume".
A festdrakt is a formal traditional outfit that is not considered the absolute represenation of a specific geographical area. It may be inspired by local traditions, but has for some reason not been granted recognition as a real bunad.
If you can trace the composition of a folk costume back to a specific designer, it will most likely be called a festdrakt. Though a few costumes that fill this requirement are commonly considered bunads regardless.
Left: women wearing homemade fantasistakk. Right: woman wearing the fantasistakk "alvedrakt" by fashion house Embla Bunader
May be directly translated as "Imagination-dress" or "fantasy-dress".
This is a relatively new term that was born from a modern folk fashion movement. In recent years it has become popular to design a "bunad" from your own imagination, and sew it yourself from any materials you have available.
The motivations behind doing this vary, but a few common reasons are:
- wanting to wear something beautiful on important occasions, but not having the money to buy a "real" bunad
- feeling overwhelmed about choosing a bunad, so instead going for an option that represents your own personality instead of a specific place of origin
- wanting to learn how to sew traditional garments, but being intimidated by the near sacred status of the bunad.
- just thinking they look cool
Some fashion houses, like Embla Bunader and Eva Lie have become known for coming up with avant-garde fantasistakk designs.
Another young term. "The bunad police". This is not an actual authoritarian force, but rather a name for people who feel it's their moral obligation to call out anyone who uses bunad "wrong". Often used as a kind of "boogey man" in discussions about bunad.
These are just a few terms that tend to pop up, if you have any other words you'd like me to explain, ask away!
