Basically no one has heard of this former Soviet republic in Central Asia, located north of Iran and south of Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan, and even less people know that it’s one of the world’s most insular countries. Very few people are allowed to travel there, and those that do report that it comes off as a sort of a poor man’s North Korea, if such a thing is possible. There is a massive personality cult around the leader, who has created a beautiful capital city with crazy golden monuments to himself, surrounded by impoverished countryside. This film concentrates on the dictator who called himself Turkmenbashi (”leader of the Turkmen”) and was filmed in 2005. His whims were law and they were strange whims. He outlawed, among other things, lipsynching, beards, wearing makeup on TV, and gold fillings. Turkmenbashi died in December 2006 of an apparent heart attack, but he has since been replaced with a leadership cult around a new dictator and much of this still applies. It’s crazy stuff.