How To Spend 48 hours in Thessaloniki
Traditional tavernas, craft cocktail bars, byzantine architecture and modern shopping centres co-exist peacefully in Greece’s ‘Lady of the North’. The port city of Thessaloniki, a stone’s throw from seaside holiday favourite Halkidiki, is a beautiful mix of ancient and modern - and worth a couple of days’ exploration.
Day one
Get your bearings with a walking tour around the city, which is compact and easy to explore on foot. From the ferry port and harbour, narrow winding streets and stone buildings clamber up the hillside to its ancient city walls.
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You don’t have to go far to see important archeological sites. Two sets of ancient ruins can be found slap bang in the middle of the city. Dikastirion Square was once the economic, political, social and religious centre of the city, where you can see the foundations of the Roman Agora. In Navarinou Square is the Arch of Galerius, erected amid the ruins of a palace in the 4th century to celebrate victory over the Persians.
Whether it’s breakfast, brunch or lunchtime, it really doesn’t matter at popular portside spot Kitchen Bar. Tables spill out on the quayside where diners graze on grilled meats, juicy salads and creamy, calorie-laden cakes all day long.
Suitably sated, waddle inland to Tsimiski, the main shopping street and home to Plateia Mall. For crafts, art and trinkets perfect for souvenirs, head down Smyrnis Street.
Catch your breath with a coffee at the Electra Palace Hotel, one of the most luxurious in town. Those not lucky enough to be staying there can grab a pew on the rooftop terrace, with views stretching to Mount Olympus on clear days.
While Thessaloniki doesn’t draw the same party crowds as Mykonos, it does boast some classy nightspots, with the feel of Ibiza’s Old Town.
Retro bar and pizzeria High School is the place for a relaxed bite to eat and craft cocktails. The theme goes beyond the name, with pencil candle-holders and exam room chairs.
Choose from a menu of more than 80 cocktails at Iktinou au Trottoir, tucked down a narrow alleyway. Fairy lights and cosy outdoor seats make for a romantic setting. Nearby, Rover is the place to catch live rock and blues, with the feel of an intimate concert hall.
Still awake? Berlin, on Smyrnis, plays grunge music to bleary-eyed revellers until 7am, stretching (and yawning) to 9am on weekends.
Day two
Rise early and beat the crowds to the White Tower, which is actually a soft honey colour. Its present name is thanks to a convict whitewashing the former prison fortification in the 19th century, and it has since been stripped away to reveal the original stone. The stout structure is free to enter but only 75 visitors are allowed at any one time.
Nearby are the archeological museum on Manoli Andronikou Street and the Museum of Byzantine Culture, also worth a visit before the hordes arrive.
Grab a square of spanikopita (spinach pie), a block creamy feta cheese, fresh herby focaccia and burgundy cherries from labyrinthine indoor Modiano Market, and find a perch by the port to enjoy your makeshift picnic. You’ll want to linger over the views that stretch out to sea and upwards at the patchwork of terracotta and honey coloured roofs climbing into the hills.
For dessert, grab an ice cream at Plasair, above Aristotelous Square - if you can bear the queues. Drool-worthy flavours include cream biscuit and strawberry sherbet.
Then, wander over to the waterside by the White Tower for a free boat cruise. The one-hour tours depart regularly, day and evening, for a relaxed jaunt around the pretty harbour. Coffee, beer and wine are served on board - though these, unlike the tour, require you to put your hand in your pocket.
Back on dry land, enjoy an aperitif at Proto Patoma, housed in an Art Nouveau building on Tsimiski.
For dinner, choose from one of the many traditional tavernas. Taverna to Igglis serves up butter-soft meat dishes such as pork slow-cooked with thyme.
By the White Tower, Myrsini has Cretan dishes of roast rabbit, succulent greens and triangles of flaky filo pastry filled with sharp, creamy sheep’s milk cheese.
A stroll around the harbour will give you the chance to digest, and to cast a last, lingering glance around this characterful, surprising city.
Feeling the wanderlust? See more beautiful things from Greece here.