There’s a growing category of Thai restaurants I like to call hiso local. They don’t aim for the swanky refinement of places like Nahm, but who wants to eat in a hotel? The inventive cooking gets overwhelmed by the stiff interpretation of that dreadful category ‘fine dining’.
This simple take on a Thai street omelet with lovingly rendered pork crackling does everything right. And, the deep fried balls of sour northern Thai sausage are everything you want and then some.












