#istillplayvinyl

[3345rpmz]

• Vinyl is the Answer • ⋅ I Still Play Vinyl ⋅ www.facebook.com/33.45rpmz www.instagram.com/33.45rpmz

[rbs64]

Two things that keep me spinning: guitar and hifi - I still play vinyl.... and a Stratocaster. Keep on spinning! #istillplayvinyl #stratocaster #electricguitar #vinylrecords #hifi #analogaudio #playingguitar (presso Sacrofano) https://www.instagram.com/pasqualerobustini/p/BwNSORbF-0I/?utm_source=ig_tumblr_share&igshid=wutm5m7i4dw9

[stillplayvinyl]

[rbs64]

My #hifi system since December 1991. The "new entry" is the #turntable: a #vintage #70s #Thorens #TD160 I bought in 2015! Its wooden plinth fit very well with the luscious wooden chassis of the Italian made amplifier. #audio #stereo #istillplayvinyl #vinyl #vinylrecords #analogaudio #unisonresearch #tdl #music #hifidelity #altafedeltà (presso Parco Regionale di Veio)

[stillplayvinyl]

Vintage Thorens buying guide

I once owned a nice Thorens TD-165 turntable that I set up and updated to function very well. I learned a lot throughout the process and I'm now running a nice TD-160 which I happened to find at a reasonable price and having learned so much on its lesser brother, I was able to check if the TT was ok before paying for it.

It is widely believed that those old machines where built to such high specifications for the time that it is not easy to find one in really bad conditions. Many also believe that one of those old TTs would outperform today's brands entry-levels and give a run for the money to many top record-spinners that use sophisticated modern technology. The fact is that the suspended, belt-driven technology devised in the 50s is pretty the same today but it is used in very expensive turntables. For example, the modern descendant of the old Thorens suspended decks such as the TD-350 cost 3600 euros! A similar price tags the king of all those turntables, the venerable Linn Sondek LP12.

Those vintage TTs are said to have a more characteristic open sound than modern rigid tables; they should also better absorb ambient vibration and motor noise.

Even damaged decks can be restored to life rather easily. Therefore, buying such an old table can result in a real bargain, provided you know what to look for and how to set it up.

Admittedly, buying a vintage turntable at a garage sale is a bit risky, let alone on the Internet.

  Buy one on eBay

Therefore, I'm trying to provide a humble guide to those who would like to have such a good looking and old fashioned deck in their systems. I will constrain the guide to the ones I know: the Thorens TD-165/160.

As of today, Thorens TD-165s are still pretty affordable: samples in good condition shouldn’t be priced above €150; the TD-160 is another matter: the TD-165 is just like a TD-160 but of cheaper built. Some differences are the wooden plinth, of better, real wood in the TD-160; the TD-165’s sub-platter is made of resin while the TD-160’s is zinc; the motor is slightly more advanced in the TD-160, having a friction system that allows the platter to start spinning (and stop) quickly. The main difference is a better tonearm fitted on the TD-160; the TD-165’s is easily recognizable from the threaded weight hanging from the back of the tonearm: first thing to check on a TD-165 - it MUST be there, along with the two little shafts from which it hangs.

Video comparison between Thorens TD-165 and 160, from Vinyl Nirvana

I think the conditions of the belt and the cartridge is not important at all: I would certainly change both on a used turntable. There's no way to know what a used stylus has been playing in other people's hands. The belt should be changed every few years so there's no point in checking its conditions. Of course it is better to check if the TT is in working electrical conditions by plugging it to the wall socket and seeing it spinning: no strange noises should be heard...

The most important part in this kind of decks is the shaft around which the sub-platter spins: remove the heavy outer platter and make the sub-platter spin slowly by hand, trying to hear any noises or signs of friction. The platter should turn smoothly and regularly. A belt connects the sub-platter to the motor spindle that causes it to rotate around a metal shaft inserted in a socket. The motor spindle should rotate smoothly with no wobble at both 33 and 45 rpm speeds. 

Thorens TD-160 motor spindle

   - Thorens TD-165 motor spindle with original belt 

The shaft shouldn't show any sign of wear at all. Both shaft and socket should be lubricated while functioning. If they're not, friction could have damaged both. Chances are the oil is no longer in the pit. No big deal. Remove the sub platter and inspect the shaft: no signs of wear due to friction should be evident. When cleaned, a sub-platter shaft should shine. A sub-platter with a damaged shaft can be found in the used market but it is not easy and could cost too much; but this should be taken into account in the price you're willing to pay less for a deck with a damaged shaft.

Thorens TD-165 subplatter shaft

Quickly inspect the working conditions of the two control knobs in front of the platter: the right one lifts the tonearm, the left one turn the TT on by selecting one of the speeds. Note: the tonearm should be safely resting on its armrest, that should be able to lock it into position with a small pressure. Also check the counterweight in the back of the tonearm: the TD-165’s is screwed to the back of the tonearm and should rotate with no big effort; the TD-160’s is kept in place by a small screw at its side.

   - Thorens TD-165 antiskating system and counterweight

Thorens TD-160 antiskating system and counterweight

The suspended decks' typical design is made of an almost triangular metallic sub-chassis (the one with the pit hosting the shaft) which is mechanically isolated from the plinth by means of three suspension springs. It is useful to check how they work by pushing the platter downward near the center of rotation, to see if it is somehow free of moving vertically on the springs. Gently hitting the platter near the rotation center should cause it to bounce a few times if the suspensions are in order. If it does not, it is not necessarily a bad sign: the suspensions can be tuned, but if the springs have completely lost their elastic properties they should be changed.

The Thorens suspension system - from The Analog Dept

[stillplayvinyl]