Reflecting on a year in Krakow
It’s hard to believe my year in Krakow as a JDC Entwine Jewish Service Corps fellow at JCC Krakow is almost over. I went to Poland with the mission to live a more meaningful life and to help a community in need.
I moved here without ever having set foot in Poland and without really knowing what I'd be doing. I put my trust in the JDC - knowing they match the needs of a community with the background and skills of each fellow. The people responsible for my well-being on the ground - Karina Sokolowska, JDC Country Director for Poland and Jonathan Ornstein, Executive Director of JCC Krakow told me to take my preconceptions of Jewish Poland and throw them out the window. My parents happened to be visiting Krakow during my interview process and had the opportunity to meet with Karina, Jonathan, and Irene Pletka, a good friend of the JCC whom I've since gotten to know really well and who reiterated what Karina and Jonathan had told me.
To say that the year has been a success for the JCC and me, would be an understatement. I'm often asked how things are going in Krakow and I usually say something along the lines of - "I love it here - the city, the people, and the work are all great!" With just a few weeks to go in the fellowship (even though I’m planning to continue working at JCC Krakow a few extra months), let’s take a look at some of the things I'm most proud of accomplishing during my fellowship year:
1. Launching Friends of JCC Krakow
We have roughly 7,000 visitors that come through the doors of JCC Krakow each month. 90% of the operating budget is raised overseas from foundations, federations, synagogues, and individuals. The ability for Americans to make tax-deductible donations to a 501c3 is extremely important and I'm glad we were able to launch Friends of JCC Krakow during my time here. I built the website using Squarespace, enabling me and the rest of the team to update the site very quickly and easily. The Friends of organization has allowed us to build a Board of Trustees, helping to raise awareness about the renewal of Jewish life in Krakow and receive gifts from many American communities. You can check out the Friends of JCC Krakow website by clicking here.
I've made lots of great friends here in Poland. One of my closest is Robert - a young guy from London who moved to nearby Katowice to live with his girlfriend, Basia. Robert rode his bike from London (taking the ferry across the channel) 1,350 miles along the WWII path of liberation, ending his ride at Auschwitz-Birkenau. After becoming a member of the JCC, he had the idea that his ride shouldn’t have ended in a place of such sadness and loss, but instead in a place of hope.
This past June we organized the inaugural Ride for the Living, bike riding 55 miles from Auschwitz-Birkenau to JCC Krakow, to celebrate Jewish life in Poland. We had 15 participants in this first year (including my whole family, which was really special for me) and raised money to send a group of Holocaust survivors who are members of the JCC on a trip to Israel. We already have 20 participants signed up for next year's Ride and are hoping for even greater participation from Poles, Israelis, Brits, Americans, or anyone interested in joining our efforts! If you'd like to participate, please check out our website.
3. Participating in every holiday - becoming a member of the community
From building our sukkah with volunteers, staff, and members to lighting the hanukkiyah with Pani Zosia (a Holocaust survivor who gives the D'var Torah each week at Shabbat dinner and on YouTube) to dressing up for our 60s themed Purim party (ok, I had a Cleveland Browns t-shirt on, but the last time the Browns won an NFL Championship was 1964); I’ve had a blast being part of this community. They've welcomed me with open arms and made me feel like I'm one of their own. It’s not easy being away from family and friends for a year, but I couldn't have done it - or it would have been a lot more difficult, if I didn't feel the warmth that I feel from this very special community.
4. Getting to know Poland
There is a postcard on my colleague Ishbel’s desk. It’s a picture of a rainbow in Poland.
This is my general perception of what people think before arriving here. The reality couldn't be further from that picture. Krakow is one of the most beautiful cities I've ever visited and has perhaps Europe’s most impressive main square. I've also visited Wroclaw, Warsaw, Bialystok (where my mom has family roots), "skied" in Kluszkowce (Poland had the most mild winter ever - the skiing in January was on all man-made snow), visited and licked the wall in the salt mine in Wieliczka, and more. The countryside is beautiful. This was especially true on the 55 mile bike ride as we cycled from Auschwitz-Birkenau to the JCC in the Ride for the Living (see #2 above).
There is so much to see and do in Poland from a cultural, historical, and nature/outdoors perspective.
5. Getting to know Jewish Poland
I think a lot of people have a certain impression of Jewish Poland before arriving here. We tell all visitors to the JCC that there are three streams of the narrative you need to connect with when visiting Jewish Poland to get the full picture.
1. The loss from the Shoah
2. The 1,000 year history of Jews in Poland
3. The revival of Jewish life taking place here
For years, people have done a thorough job of connecting with the loss. In the past, visitors to Poland would often go to Auschwitz-Birkenau or another concentration camp and then visit non-Jewish Krakow or Warsaw. That would be like going to Japan to connect with what's happened there before, during, and since WWII, and only visiting the memorials in Hiroshima and Nagasaki.
Today it’s unconscionable to come to Poland and only see the loss. The beautiful new Museum of the History of Polish Jews, officially opening in October 2014 in Warsaw, will go a long way to explaining the 1,000-year history of Jews in Poland. Like many countries, Jews have had good times and bad times here. Most people don't know that Jews were expelled from England from 1290 until 1657. People tend to focus only on the Holocaust because it is more recent and so painful. We must remember the past and can work to ensure genocide never happens to Jews or anyone again, but we can't let it define us.
As I've previously written, there is a small, but vibrant and growing Jewish community here. JCC Krakow currently has 500 members with Jewish roots. If you ask any of them if they have friends with Jewish roots who haven't yet stepped forward, they would each say they have 5, 10, or 15 friends.
I attended a beautiful Jewish wedding in Wroclaw a few months ago and we hosted a bris at JCC Krakow last fall. The community is growing each day and it's been very special to witness it first-hand.
20 percent of the Iberian Peninsula (Spain and Portugal) has Sephardic Jewish ancestry. If you told someone their great, great, great, grandfather was Jewish, he’d shrug his shoulders as if to say “so what?" In Poland it's different. There's great interest in Jewish life, culture, and religion now. We have a period in time, post-Shoah and post-communism, to connect to these people and show them the beauty of the Jewish world. If they don't begin their exploration now, they may be cut off from their Jewish roots forever.
In combination with what we're doing at JCC Krakow, annual Jewish events in Krakow, including JDC's 7@Nite and the Jewish Culture Festival, are connecting people to their roots and to the Jewish world.
During the Festival, I presented a lecture about Jewish Cuba and China - places I visited with the JDC.
I've had my fair share of pierogi (that’s the plural - pierog is the singular), bigos, gołąbki, kiełbasa, kopytka, barszcz, zapiekanka and a whole lot more. I've participated as a judge in a JCC Krakow cooking contest, (the Student Club received a last place vote from me for serving herring cake) and in a pierogi eating challenge with Robert (I lost 33 to 30. With better tasting pierogi and a fan or A/C - I would have won).
I've found traditional Polish food to be rather tasty. You bet I miss my weekly (ok, maybe daily) burgers in NYC, but there is something to be said about how much more natural the food is here.
I even led a food walking tour during the Jewish Culture Festival! I had planned to make stops for traditional Polish items, but with only Poles showing up for the tour, we made the audible to falafel, hummus, and of course ice cream!
I'm by no means fluent. I’m barely even conversational. But I know a good amount of vocabulary. I know the past tense, present tense, and future tense. I set a goal for myself at the beginning of the year to learn the language (wherever I would be placed as a fellow) and I consider this goal accomplished. By the way, who knew Polish was the most difficult language in the world to learn? I've enjoyed conversing (even limitedly) with our members, other locals, and in restaurants.
This year would not have been nearly as meaningful or special had I not been surrounded by incredible people at JCC Krakow.
Jonathan - I could not have asked for a better boss, mentor, and friend. The energy and passion that runs through you is palpable and anyone who is lucky enough to meet you will attest to it.
Jonathan, Sebastian, Rabbi Avi, Anna, Joanna, Kasia, Ishbel, Agnieszka, Agata, Mikołaj, Magda - you've all been amazing and have made Krakow feel like home. Each day of the fellowship I woke up and was thankful to be working with such talented and hardworking individuals. I think we made a great team and I look forward to finding ways to continue working together in the future. Kasia gets an extra shout-out for keeping me well fed!
The members and volunteers of JCC Krakow are the reason there is a Jewish future here and I've been incredibly lucky to interact with so many different and wonderful people. I'll be back in Krakow in the not too distant future and can't wait to see the progress that's been made.
In just a year, I've also met some "people in high places". Jonathan and I were invited to the Presidential Hanukkah party in Warsaw with the President of Poland, Bronisław Komorowski. U.S. Consul General in Krakow, Ellen Germain is now a close friend whom I've eaten pizza with on many occasions and interviewed for JCC Krakow's monthly magazine, Jesteśmy. I've had the opportunity to meet her boss, U.S. Ambassador to Poland, Stephen Mull at several events. Chief Rabbi of Poland, Rabbi Michael Schudrich is now a close friend of my family and is a great source of wisdom and humor.
I came to Krakow with the goal of leading a more meaningful life. This JDC fellowship with JCC Krakow has far surpassed my dreams. I'm truly looking forward to staying connected to this community for the rest of my life.