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The Last Garrison at Lichting 2016 Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam!

All photo’s by © Peter Stigter

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amsterdam fashion week: yvonne kwok

(images via team peter stigter)

yay! we've already seen several of the other lichting 2012 participants at this edition of amsterdam fashion week (like miriam de waard, david laport, & sara veenstra), but it feels like the right thing to do to close out the ranks with the s/s 2013 collection of the winner (and my personal favourite show of the group), yvonne kwok! although i'm sure some might call it a little outlandish, i found the range, fun, colourful, wearable, and adventurous all at once.

as we're on limited time/space right now, i'm not going to go into too much of the background, although you can read ms. kwok's full creative statement at the lichting site. however, in a brief synopsis, elle quoted the designer as explaining it was centered around (trans.) "the struggle with mental disorders caused by the restrictions which are applicable within the world of fashion." the site also went on to opine that "Kwok translated this idea in the collection with the puppet focus and [by bringing] different elements of acarnival to use. This led to a wonderful mix of colours, fabrics and materials."

finally, the official photographers of afw's site, team peter stigter, quoted ms. kwok as noting that "(t)he translation to my collection is a bombastic use of color. Warm tones combined with bright accents and pastels are inspired by the colors of organs. The strained strings stand for the restriction and the folding reflects the humor where some parts of the body are being blown up. Also by playing with the different placements of the limbs from the marionette it’s being taken out of context."

"The use of neoprene gives a fleshy effect and refers to how artist Folkert de Jong calls it: 'gebakken lucht', which means 'nonsense'," she continued. "The use of cardboard and brads are inspired by the paper doll, which gives the collection that handcrafted feeling that I was looking for.” it's hard not to appreciate the way the designer took such a weighty subject and made it accessible, thought-provoking, and wearable, although (and maybe this is food for another time) i'm not necessarily sure the fashionies will be all up on this. but i really and truly hope we get to see more of her work in the seasons to come, because it's clear--even from this miniscule collection--she's bursting with inspired ideas (see additional show images at fashionising).

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