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First off, we have Ralf, at 40mm.
Ralf is an “original character” of mine from high school. He’s basically a knockoff Link, but also the game Knights had just come out on the Sega Saturn, so Ralf has a kind of jester hat.
Actually enjoying working and printing in low poly, and feel like there could be a market for low poly custom minis, at 40mm for tabletop gaming, and 80mm just as collectibles. More of that to come. Also I need a better camera.
MP Select Mini was Hacked using Reverse Engineering by Robin Reiter
#3Dprinterlowprice #3dpritnerhacking #mono #MonopriceMPSelectMini3DPrinter #MPSelectMini #ReverseEngineering
Is this one of the best years for 3D printing? Well, I’m acquainted with some awesome news and I certainly see more people getting in touch with this technology. The 3DP industry is expanding its horizons and as Most people says, with the passing of the years, it must be smaller and cheaper. MP Select Mini is a good example of the words above; A good – small and cheap 3D printer for less than…
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I have a feeling that the teeth are supposed to be *inside* the connector.
Now that we’re all set up and have a good flow going I need a project to work on. People seem to love those 3D printed Final Fantasy 7 models, but those are everywhere, so I need something unique.
Of course, I love Resident Evil, I know how to model Low Poly stuff in Blender, I’m sure this could be easily adapted. So I start with Jill Valentine, and then Chris Redfield. I realized I was modelling in too much geometry to be true to the style, so I trimmed it down a bit. You can see the differences between Jill on the top and bottom here: once they’re printed I can prime and paint the rest of the details on. Things like belts and whatnot.
Vanity requires my next model be of myself.
I guess I forgot about this, didn’t I? Done with modifications (for now), and ready to start some serious printing.
So, out of the box the MP Select Mini has a problem with the hot bed wiring. The way it sits inside the printer, it rubs against things, and the zip ties pinch the cable. After a while, all MPSMs end up with a broken hot bed.
The solution is to route the wires outside of the machine, which might involve drilling, if I didn't have the ability to print a new side-plate myself.
This one came in two parts (the left side was part of an earlier project for better cooling, the right was a modified file from that project, for the cable routing), and the first piece I printed (the right side) obviously suffered some warping during the print, so I'll have to re-print it later.
Waiting on a braided sleeve coming from Amazon early next week, and I need to pick up another rubber grommet (was able to repurpose one of the ones I needed from the no longer used hole the wires used to go through), so I'll re-print it before then, since it'll have to come apart anyways.
At least now I can safely use the thing without worrying. The warping was most likely a heat issue. With the PLA a higher heat for the first layer is good for adhesion, but if it's too hot for too long it seems to start warping. The trick is to lower the temperature to around 35C after the first layer or so is down, and it seems to be fine, as you can see with the left piece. Once I re-print the warped piece, I can glue them together and wont' need to use duct tape to hold it down.
Monoprice Select Mini Gets Smooth
We’ve had a love affair with the Monoprice Select Mini since it came out. The cheap printer has its flaws, though. One of them is that the controller is a bit opaque. On the one hand, it is impressive that it is a 32-bit board with an LCD. On the other hand, we have no way to modify it easily other than loading the ready-built binaries. Want to add bed leveling? Multiple fans? A second extruder and mixing head? Good luck, since the board doesn’t support any of those things. [mfink70] decided the controller had to go, so he upgraded …read more http://pje.fyi/P6zCCg
