spfw: priscilla darolt
(images via ffw)
one of the things that has truly been a pleasure during our exploration of são paulo fashion week is the wealth of impressive female designers exhibiting their wares--gloria coelho, sara kawasaki of huis clos, and fernanda yamamoto among them--which represent some of the best the week has to offer. priscilla darolt, who took a season off following her lovely art deco-themed s/s 2011 show, we might well count among them.
co-opting another retro theme for her s/s 2012 return to the catwalk, ffw reports that the designer's inspiration came from (trans.) "illustrations from the 1920s and the look of Josephine Baker" (a lady who has been of late channeled by model rose cordero for tush magazine). however, with some of the textures and almost tribal handiwork of the pieces, it was difficult not to also perceive some sort of dual indigenous influence on the range.
in a neutral palette of black, off-white, and silvery gray, ms. darolt worked with an extensive array of materials, leading to the lush, crafty textures. silk, cotton, lace, lurex, macrame, duppioni silk, and loom fabrics were employed alongside beading, fringed, unfinished hems, stripes, geometric motifs, ruffles, and twisted and woven materials to create some of the most intricately rich surfaces to be seen throughout the week.
working with an aesthetic portais da moda calls (trans.) "discreetly sexy," ms. darolt focused on the midi-length dress or skirt (with several tunics, cropped tops, jackets, and wide-legged trousers winding in, as well), featuring exposed backs and high necks. indeed, any flesh that was revealed (and there was a surprising lot), felt almost incidental, like a skirt flashing up, rather than a overt objective, and perhaps the ethnic-y hints helped fuel this, as well.
although some of the thick weaves, heavy beading, and winding straps might concern some as being a little stifling for summer, the designer did well to inject such lightweight, almost sheer fabrics (as below), and liberal cut-outs throughout to help give balance. thus, it was quite impressive to see her almost old-world perspective transformed into something so thoroughly modern; i can't at the moment imagine anything from spfw i'd like to don more.
(watch the complete catwalk video here)
updated: with new images