Aug 20, 2015
Just got back from 10 magical days on a boat in the Mentawais with 10 seasisters from Northern California. Lots of editing to do, but here’s one of my favorite shots of a seaman named Matt Thompson that I met in the lineup at Rifles. He spent some time surfing Ocean Beach while in school at the Maritime Academy and said there was nothing like an Ocean Beach barrel, but I was pretty happy for the change of pace and warm waters of this Indo wave. I fell in love with water photography 20 years ago in Indo and have only been back once since so I felt like a kid again swimming into these caverns. Definitely won’t wait another 20 years to go back!
