#sc22schiaparelli

[the-fashion-folder]

Schiaparelli  •  Spring Couture 2022

[the-fashion-folder]

Schiaparelli  •  Spring Couture 2022

[the-fashion-folder]

Schiaparelli  •  Spring Couture 2022

[the-fashion-folder]

Just curious, why do you not like Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli ? What about it isn’t that feminine? Tbh, I haven’t paid much attention to what he’s done at the house

I don’t even think I can say I dislike it (there’s several individual dresses of his I’ve liked quite a lot) but as a whole I have this sort of sense when I look at his work that a woman couldn’t have designed it. It’s not that the clothes aren’t feminine, I don’t really have any opinion on that, but that the priority doesn’t seem (to me) to be the woman that he’s dressing. I doubt that’s even true, really, but it’s the way I feel looking at his work, especially his more revealing looks.

This is mostly just my immediate reaction to seeing this season’s show after reading about how it was like the show that was going to save couture. And I think of the comparisons to Lacroix, Gauthier and Mugler (and how eager critics are to heap praise on men generally) and I don’t quite see it. Because, and again this might be just me, but at their best when that crowd would do really raunchy, revealing garments it gave me the feeling of the woman being in on the joke. When I look at a lot of Roseberry’s work at Schiap—at times the fixation on breasts seems almost puerile in its intensity—there’s so much that looks like it would be humiliating to wear.

Beyond that I’m especially sensitive since Schiaparelli is one of those rare houses founded by a woman, and I really can’t imagine a woman dressing another woman in a lot of what I’ve seen him do.

I don’t mean to make any judgements on Roseberry as a person or even the quality of his work. Fashion, and couture especially, tend to be very centred on men’s ideas of women and their bodies, so it’s not like this is exclusive to this one designer. But that’s the best I can say as to what bothers me about what I suppose I’d call his point of view.