Now thére's a spencer jacket ! (sleeves alert)

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Now thére's a spencer jacket ! (sleeves alert)
Silken Spencer Saturday
Image-Killerton Fashion Collection © National Trust / Sophia Farley and Renée Harvey
Today's item is a ca.1830 spencer jacket from the National Trust Killertin Collection. Brown is such a cosy and underrated colour.
Description from the National Trust Collection website:
"Jacket; Spencer - Brown silk trimmed with rust brown silk. Fairly high waist and leg of mutton sleeves. Pointed trimming over shoulders and down front and at wrists. Rouleau around neck and wrists. 1830 (circa)"
Spencer 1359494 | National Trust Collections
"Outerwear garments included the spencer, a long-sleeved jacket that extended only to the raised waistline. Worn by both men and women, it was named for the 2nd Earl Spencer, who, according to one version of the story, cut off the coattails of his jacket after wagering that he could invent a new fashion. For colder weather, there was the pelisse, a skirt-length overcoat, often lined and trimmed with fur, which originated in Hungary as a part of military dress. Bonnets became fashionable, essentially smaller versions of the straw hats of the 1780s, but now pulled in to frame the face. Bonnets, like shawls, would become staples of feminine dress until at least the middle of the nineteenth century." - Fashion in the Regency Era via janeaustensworld.com
Spencer Jacket & Skirt
c.1815
Kyoto Costume Institute
Dramatic Diamond: Sew Chic’s Imperial Jacket
Sew Chic offers modern patterns inspired by vintage looks. Thus, you get modern pattern sizing and more attention to the cut and the details. Many eras had shorter, shaped jackets--some of my favorites are from the 1930s, and you can see Spencer jackets in all the Jane Austen movies. Here we have one designed to enhance an hourglass figure.
This pattern comes with several options including a double-breasted vest or jacket with or without a draped collar. The front of the jacket has modified princess seams which should make it easier to fit, and the back has multiple darts. The sleeves are two-piece, but there are no pockets despite the flaps. So lots of options, but the jacket with the collar that you see up top has the loveliest and most dramatic of lines. A perfect evening look. The vest done without the collar would be good for a workday precisely because it tones down the drama.
You might wear the jacket alone, no blouse, over a long skirt for daring look. But if you would rather not show that much skin, you need to be careful to choose something to harmonize with the diamond shape of the neckline and the drape of the collar. A very fine sweater might work, but I think bringing the guimpe back to life might work best. The guimpe was a sheer, fitted, short blouse out of lace or net, often with a high collar that hugged the neck, worn in the 1910s underneath dresses in order to deal with very revealing necklines. Being sheer, it is flirty all the same.
The fabrics recommended include taffeta and shantung, brocades, all very fancy, or wools like boucle. This looks like a nice velveteen in a rich red. And the 3 large buttons would need to be chosen wisely to enhance whatever fabric you settle on.
This one is definitely going on my shopping list, and you can find it here: https://sewchicpatterns.com/product/ln1925-imperial-jacket-or-vest/
ab. 1817 Girl's dress and spencer jacket (England)
wool and silk plain weave with silk supplementary-warp patterning and silk cord
(Los Angeles County Museum of Art)
Have my eye on this gorgeous antique trim I want for an early Regency lady's spencer. The trim itself isn't period accurate, but it would be beautiful on one of those. Especially with a bit of matching tassle.
Regency-era dress and spencer jacket