10 African Designers With A Contemporary Approach
1/27/17
Written By: Desiree Dossen
In defining the phrase "Contemporary African Designer," we discuss the idea that not every designer hailing from the great continent is to only use kente, lappa, or ankara materials to build collections. In which you may see highlights of this fabrications, yet these designers listed below have broaden their horizons in not to be mixed in the "typical" idea of an African designer. The fist thing individuals think of when they think of African fashion or designers for that matter, is the bold prints. Me being on the opposite end on the spectrum and viewing these designer collections from an optimistic perspective, I quote "Bold statements, narratives, and messages being sealed in a hem, bust, sleeve, and crown." Silhouettes, Fabrications, and Prints are major aspects of these designer brands, take a look below.
"GARMEANTS"- I've described the term "garmeants" in a previous post about how clothing should be able to express who you are as an individual. Breaking the word down into pieces you find the word "Meant." The past tense of meaning. In other words, if it is meant to be it will be. Not every style or designer or little boutique is meant for your aesthetic. Therefore don't force the fashion. Be open to accept the brilliant and innovative inventions sprouting on the daily.
Yesterday I volunteered the African Diaspora Awards, held in NYC. It was my first time ever attending and I was amazed at the Black, well African Excellency held in one space. A space of network, creativity, and passion. All of these individuals hailing from various parts of Africa to make a similar message in closing. "Uniting Africa through collaboration, giving, building, and curating." It was an amazing event, but I have some rebuttals that will be seen in a post for The Colloqua Dialogues.
Designers Listed Below:
Loza Maleombho- The curator of #AlienEdit, Ms. Maleombho is A Cultural Mesh. Brazil Born, raised in Cote D'Ivoire and leaving her mark in the United States. Why do we love Loza? Loza has an alternative way of producing her products. Her fabrication, quality, and essence is delivered with in an authentic manner. Everyday she is showcasing her art in forms which is unconventional. She sends messages through her masterpieces. She is an artist before she is a designer. I saw Loza for the first time Dec. 2016 at The African Diaspora Awards. She complimented my hair and I was astonished. By far one of my greatest moments in 2016. I joined her challenge as well during the year for Alien Edits. I was super happy to apart of her interactive project even if I wasn't the winner. She is an inspiration and feels like a big sister through the social media. I do alot of highlighting and promoting of my favorite curators and individuals in the diaspora who are alternative. I highlights, Dumsy, Loza, Amy Sall, Oroma Elewa, and more all at once and she retweeted and liked it. Often times I feel like these individuals who have made names for themselves wouldn't be open to hear or interact with a girl from a small town with a following less than a thousand. Well, I was wrong, she's so sweet in person and her style is immaculate. I love when I see designers in their own pieces. Graphic, accessories, and womenswear designer, Loza has built her platform by being original as her ethereal beauty lights up our timelines.
Follow Loza: @LozaMaleombho
Shop Her Pieces: http://www.shop-lozamaleombho.com/
Brand IG: @Loza_Maleombho
Maki Oh- Made in Nigeria. Maki Oh has broke barriers as being the leader in the African Design/Fashion Industry. Many celebrities including first lady Michelle Obama has shown proper love to this brand. Sold in Lagos, California, and now New York Maki Oh is rising and all stereotypes of a what an African Designer is are put asunder. Inspiration from the groovy and retro era have surfaced in their latest collection. Viewing Oxosi.com the first thought that came to mind when I saw their collection was ooh they're paying homage to the late artist Prince. Not quite sure if I'm right but I love the concept. I have a curated pinterest board that showcases African Designers in the diaspora and Maki Oh is obviously on there along with William Okpo. Amaka Asakwe is the designer behind this brand and has proven her sustainability through traditional dying methods. Organic dyes and fabrics savors the tradition in Nigerian womenswear which is a world of its own.
Follow IG: @Maki.Oh
Nataal Media and Maki Oh
Shop Maki Oh: https://oxosi.com/makers/maki-oh/#_=_
Visit Website: http://www.makioh.com/
William Okpo- The sister duo that used to rock their braids down to the floor. They also slay the industry streets with Solange Knowles. Lizzy and Darlene Okpo are the masterminds behind this cultivated brand. These two Nigerian sisters in which I thought were twins, but not are New York natives that has an immense amount of stain yet exclusivity within the industry. The brand named after their father showcases the best of both worlds. They gain their inspiration from their parents who were Nigerian immigrants while living the American lifestyle. One can shop their ecommerce site or visit their storefront on Fulton Street in New York.
Follow IG: @WilliamOkpo
Visit Website: https://williamokpo.com/pages/about
Andrea Iyamah- The Nigerian Canadian girl boss who has turned her name into a household brand. Under Andrea's belt secures fashion designing of accessories, bridal wear, and swimsuits. I have been following Andrea who goes by Dumsy for short for years and she never fails to provide a piece of exquisite quality with an ethnic touch. Her tailoring and attention to details, cuts, and fabrication takes me on a trip. A fashion high that every does of Andrea Iyamah makes me quite addicted to her luxurious goodies. She's been designing since she was 17 and and has branded herself globally. Her merchandise in Ghana, Nigeria, Canada, and France. A Global empire she has created through her talent as a designer. Her youthful approach and sophisticated, polished finish makes me even more attracted to her work. Yes, Adrea Iyamah will be designing my future wedding dress. I claim it now.
Visit https://www.andreaiyamah.com/
IG: @AndreaIyamahBridal
IG: @AndreaIyamahSwimwear
IG: @AndreaIyamah
I am ISIGO- My favorite designer out of all of the designers, yes this brand is similar to LOZA's but Bubu Ogisi has curated a brand in which she now has her own showroom in Lagos, Nigeria. I aspire to open up my own showroom shoon and to showcase brands like ISIGO in the American Market. That's what gravitated me to this brand the most. Bubu Ogisi is a visual artist that has implements such abstract beauty in objects through a minimal and cultural approach. I am SIGO is fairly new but has been featured in world renowned publications such as VOGUE and ELLE magazines. Her merchandise is sold in the major cities of Nigeria, Acca, and Paris, France. I am obsessed with the concepts that ISIGO comes with and the SS 17 line can be previewed on their Instagram page. Rouge Mood is my theme for this year, and I am already preparing my wallet for several designer purchases.
Follow IG: @Bubu Ogisi
@IAMSIGO
visit http://www.iamisigoonline.com/
Tokyo James- An outspoken menswear brand that is not ashamed or afraid to step outside of the box. When we think menswear we think basics, tailored suits, minimal to no accessories, no drama or excitement. However I find menswear to be intriguing. The tailoring and structures are my favorite. Even though I don't know men's sizes I have no problem where a men's suit, trousers, or blazer to create my feminine look. Man Repelling in Menswear. Tokyo James allows a sense of freedom in his collections. Do what you feel. Harnesses and chokers for men. Floral can be masculine just as "real men" wear pink or pastel colors. This British Nigerian designer gives us something to talk about for sure. His pieces and collections some may find questionable. If you are highly conservative and not open to the uniqueness this designer serves, then it's not for you. However this brand caters to both the rebellious, outlaw. The man who does not care about the societal standards or norms Tokyo is breaking barriers by simply being authentic and staying true to his brocaded, mesh, metallic detailing that any man despite sexual preference can rock.
Check Out:
IG: @tokyojamess
Recho Omondi- The young New York native that is not holding back her love and power she finds in black beauty. #BlackModelsMatter was elevated in 2015 when fearless Kenyan womenswear designer Recho Omondi served up pastel moods and melanated vibes. Ahhhh it was like a breath of fresh air when Omondi delivered her ground breaking, high end, ready to wear F/W 15 collection. She proved haute couture can be haute and couture while still representing models with diversity. The fashion industry has a way with only signaling the "token" black model in which you would only see one highlighted in the European brands. Thanks to Omondi, our hopes of change came a bit quicker than expected. Lookbooks and runway presentations featuring all shades of brown. The ultimate color palette reflecting the epitome of rich tones and muted, soft tones when in cohesion. Recho Omondi's collections remind me of melodic tunes that set emotional moods. The edge, the class, the melancholy, the joy, the peace, the art all hinting musical notes that we read and recite, never forgetting her authenticity.
Visit RechoOMONDI.com
Follow IG: @Omndi
Duro Olowu- This London based designer serves of Mod, Vintage vibes with inspiration from the groovy era, 1960s and 1970s. Duro does something that I am most certainly fond of. Mixing prints. Oh how how I love to mix prints that you wouldn't throw together but collectively tell a strong narrative. His classic statement reflects the history of fashion and where it began. I believe Duro Olowu collections are a prose of luxurious European lifestyles for the eccentric woman.
Check Out her IG Accounts:
Check Out Duro's IG: @DuroOluwu
http://duroolowu.com/
Lisa Folawiyo- Nigerian born accessories and womenswear designer, Lisa Folawiyo delivers luxury Ankara pieces. She is one of my favorite style influencers along with Amy Sall, Oroma Elewa, Solange Knowles and many eclectic contemporary visonaries. "Lisa Folawiyo has shown its collections on international platforms – in Lagos and Johannesburg to London, Paris, Milan and New York; from Lagos Fashion & Design Week to New York Fashion Week to the Pitti W Tradeshow and the Vogue Talent Exhibition in collaboration with Vogue Italia" (lisafolawiyo.com About). Fearless, statement pieces that captures power in a feminine structure. Poise, yet strong with a "masculin chic" tone. Tapered trousers with exposed chest peaking through an oversized boyfriend style blazer. Fierce and chic is Lisa Folawiyo's collections. Her play on mesh and sequins, with an added silhouette is her signature. We can't get enough. One thing I love about Lisa's looks is that she is not afraid to layer. Her mixing and matching is done purposefully but tasteful. Even her looks on her IG showcase that Cultural Mesh sense of style. Fabrications you wouldn't normally put together she delivers in an outstanding manner. We are obsessed with every collection, I love them all so yeah when I gain extra disposable income we know where we are shopping. Visit http://www.lisafolawiyo.com/ for more info on this amazng designer.
IG: @lisafolawiyo
IG: @lisafolawiyo_studio
Zoe Arku- When Llappa prints and Avante- Guarde mesh, we have Zoe Arku. Zoe Arju is a Liberian designer that I am proud to have in this post. There aren't many designers in the Liberian community to have an eclectic approach that showcases Haute-Couture. The Fashion Industry in Liberia is slowly but surely coming together just like our music. I am very selective when it comes to the designers that I enjoy and the brands that I support. Only because they are a huge reflection of my personal style. I'm not choosing designers with huge followings or who are extremely known, I am choosing talent and exclusivity. What makes Zoe Arku's designs outstanding is because they are a visionary fashion statement. I love silhouettes and unique structures of garments. Her pieces give me Elizabethan royalty mixed with a contemporary approach and Liberian tone. I absolutely live for an embellished and overly exaggerated sleeve. Mock and high necks with a body conscious
Check Out Her IG: @ZoeArkuDesigns
https://www.facebook.com/ZoeArku-351430055046169/
Overall, each designer has something unique to bring to the industry within the continent of Africa. However I would like to witness diversity within the designers who choose a contemporary rather than traditional route. Being that I have an alternative approach to various things in life, I want to be able to discuss representation from all aspects of designers in Africa. Not just West Africa. To my Liberian people where are my creative designers? Yes we can use Lappa material but i's what you do with it and how it is done that makes one stand out. I am tired of the same silhouettes and basic designs. Where is the unconventionality? It's sad that Nigeria is always the lead and in the forefront of everything. Nigeria doesn't represent Africa as a whole and many abroad believe so. Yet the best is yet to come. I pray to see more countries visit alternative routes and design methods to help the progression of the African economy and fashion industry within Africa. Thanks for reading. Feel free to comment your thoughts and share.
From Sole To Crown
-StylistaInMind