sorry to bug but, do you.... have... bananabay that is NOT missing textures and other problems for SFM...? I just spent HOURS trying to make it behave, I even fucked around with file editing shit to try and make it work, I am a broken man and trying to use hammer is just one thing to many just for a goddamn decent beach map ;n;
Have you tried repacking the map in TF2? I don’t know the science of it and people have explained it on the SFM discussions groups if you want to know how/why it works, but this is the command that I put into the TF2 console to first see if I can get a map to load into SFM if it won’t:
Note that I put _repack as my suffix but you can put _edit or whatever you need just to differentiate it from your original (e.g. pl_snowycoast becomes pl_snowycoast_repack). Then you’ll take that from your TF2 maps folder and drop it off somewhere in an SFM maps folder.
Note that you also have to have the map somewhere in your TF2 maps folder already (preferably not your downloads/maps folder).
You want to avoid renaming filenames for maps in Windows Explorer as much as possible, but this above method allows you to change the name without having an issue. A few friends a while back passed me an SFM-converted version of a map that I had renamed before plopping it into SFM but it didn’t like that, nor did it like being changed back, so I redownloaded it and didn’t touch the filename and it worked.
If the repacking doesn’t work (and I recommend trying the repack method anyway for your own education because SFM is Not Nice) you can download the Jungle Inferno maps from the description of this workshop entry here.
Okay, so I downloaded that Equest-thing, but I can't seem to hide those stupid legs without the skirt being broken. Any tips for that?
You’re gonna want to hide the body/skin texture with either a $cloakFactor float of 1 or an $alpha float of 0. OP’s post here + a video towards the bottom explains the method used behind it. You might get shadows so if you choose to scale down things like arms, legs, and the original head, it wouldn’t hurt - so as long as you got what you need locked onto the right bones.
Really useful for bodyhacking, I use those two commands all the time. A lot of MMD-ported models will come with separate textures for everything (e.g. skirts, pants, capes, hair). If they aren’t bodygrouped or don’t have their own separate bone, really useful to hide away the textures with either of the two override materials up top.
Dunno if you still answer asks, but could you link me some skirt models? I looked everywhere, but I didn't find any...
I’ve been pretty busy here and there, sorry for not responding to asks or messages as often!
Revzin’s HWM Elizabeth pack had a huge bunch of tesselated skirts; you’ll have to seek it out, dunno if it’s been re-uploaded somewhere. Rebb’s Scout’s Mom has a pencil skirt that also comes with a tesselated pencil skirt. (Be careful, they can crash your SFM.)
I also use CreatorofPony’s Equestria Girls models’ skirts fairly often by hiding the additional textures by turning alpha values off. There’s some attachable clothes in this HS GMod playtest that you can extract.
If the model’s got a skirt, take advantage of skirt bones. I stretch, scale & break a lot of skirts to get sort of what I want. Sometimes this means they might not look great from one angle or may stretch only so far before the model no longer has anything to break.
Baking the procedural bone on Heavy’s Grand Duchess Tutu makes for a surprising amount of customization. Heavy’s tutu is probably my favourite clothing prop to utilize in costume-building.
Demoman’s Cool Breeze needs the knees shrunken and pushed upwards, as well as some clever resizing and hiding of the crotch-flap bone, but can be utilized decently for a plaid short-ish skirt.
Resizing Spy’s Made Man roses for a layered skirt works out fine, though I like to opt for other props in place of them since the rose only has one bone. Capes or draped cloth can make split skirts or hi-lo skirts; I really like the way Soldier’s Caped Crusader can do this really well.
Play around as best as you can with flipping props upside down or inside out, stretching and breaking them to their limits.
how are your transparent images so clean? I usually get green edges around mine ;_;
Use 2 renders: one with green screen, one with grey screen.
Put as 2 layers and select green on greenscreen. Once all necessary green spots selected, select your greyscreen layer, and hit Del like 2 times.
Grey areas on greyscreen should be removed without grabbing any additional shit. The lime green is bright as all shit and will usually grab onto nicely instead of trying to manually deselect things on your render on a grey/white/blackscreen, so you use the greenscreen render as a mask layer and the greyscreen render is your actual final image.
Also don’t feather like this is a big gear-grinder with me next to overly airbrushed skin in post-editing. I feel like feathering can be done right but I sure as hell can’t do it right and I don’t really like it when other people do it either. The cleaner the first cutout comes out, that’s when you can fiddle around with smoothing the edges.
To those who liked the look I did today; I'm going to try and edit it... but I don't know how much is actually usable as I hadn't tried it before I sat down and recorded it... I might have to re-record it later.... but I am going to try with what I have! Promise!
I'll tackle these two at once. Let's throw up the ABSFM banner too:
Welcome to ABSFM where I tell you how to do things in the most haphazard way by telling you how I do things for the most part blah de blah here.
Let's talk about what you can use within SFM first for blood stuff. Here's what you can download to help you in your quest to make people look beat up as all fuck:
The SFMBeta files, which have blood splatters in them
This pooling blood model, which you can control the size of so you can tween it pooling
These liquid drops, which also includes a blood drop
These blood and bullet hole decals, which you can slap onto walls or a model IIRC
And these blood particles which are more realistic or if you want spilled tomato juice here you go
In the blood_trail.pcf file something or other in the /tf particles, I use the first thing it gives me because I like my blood like Bleach loves their blood - a fountain of ridiculousness
In post-editing and Photoshop, here's some things that come in handy:
Try out the Multiply/Darken options rather than just Overlay for your Layer Blending Modes. I usually use Multiply, but Normal works too if you're good with painting.
Paint splatter brushes or vectors, I don't care which ones, find something you like that is to your suiting
Likewise you can take those and then slap them onto an image file if you're making a reskin, which is also useful for getting blood onto your model
I usually follow at least one of three things for my injuries. They are as follows:
Blood
Bruises
Disheveled appearance
I don't usually break bones because I already do that when I try animating. Fuck the IK elbow bone.
Let's use that one Badass Femscout poster I did which I was a fan of in terms of over-glamourized injuries. It helps to use references when doing this if you're not sure where things go, similar to Photoshopping wrinkles, which is why sometimes my things might be too animu than realistic. Either way let's go under the cut for a breakdown of the above diagrams:
1st Picture - Bleeding: Leaking blood or cuts. This is usually done with a hard brush and then afterwards smudge tool'd edges downwards or at the very tip of the edges From here I've decided that she's received damage to her head, cuts all over open areas of her skin. Because there's bullet holes on her thigh/skirt I've added some trailing down her leg on the side as well. I like doing blood-stained teeth because of being punched in the mouth or something. Mask/erase parts where light shines.
2nd Picture - Blood-soaking: Clothes that have absorbed blood are gonna get your clothes dirty and soak in. I used a soft brush for this and then masked/erased out the edges, then smudge tool'd things to make it look like it was where it belonged. You can see where the blood trailing down her head sort of makes sense now, even though I didn't need to do this on that. I was careful as much as I could to make sure the darkness of my blood didn't pass the darkest shade of my SFM export - as with the 1st set of blood, I also erased/masked out parts where the backlight was.
3rd Picture - Bruising: Bruises are essential to showing that somebody got fucked up. Soft brush using a hue of black/dark purples at a low opacity is a good start; I've applied them primarily towards the joints such as the elbows and the knees, as well as a bit near her mouth for that earlier "got punched in the mouth or something" I mentioned. I really like adding black eyes just for the sake of showing that somebody's been hurt. When the purple's been applied very subtly, make a New Layer and use some type of sickly yellowish-green also on Multiply mode to get that dark bruising going.
4th Picture - Tearing: Your clothes need to take some battle damage if you're in a big fight. This can go down to bullet holes to even just holes and rips here and there. I painted over my original layer with some tears on her sleeves, skirt, and shirt collar, and for the most part I didn't add disheveled hair since I felt like she looked disheveled enough. (I tried adding strands in front of her face but it didn't look right so I scrapped it and left it at that.)
And there you have it, put all of that together/turn all your layers on and you should have something that looks metal as fuck. Michael Bay would be proud.
You can edit phongmaps in game, you know. Hit "Add override materials">Show model in element viewer>Materials>Add a "Float" attribute where appropriate called "$phongboost" and change the value (some models work, some don't). ;)
That's sweet and requires way less effort, God bless all these override materials options! Thanks for telling me about this.
This is a really weird concept for me that I’m trying to figure out to this day, because if you resize things before you lock things onto them, SFM does this thing where it also resizes the thing you’re trying to lock on. At this point, I’m not sure there’s a proper way doing it within SFM.
Let’s say I’m trying to put Miss Pauling’s head onto a Nude Scout Mom’s body like every other 18+ artist right now since that’s arguably the most well-modelled nude female body. If I already scaled down Scoutma’s head to 0, that means Miss Pauling’s head will also shrink no matter what. There’s two ways I’ve figured out so far:
If you lock on rootTransform, bip_head or bip_neck to each other, just scale down the Body’s head or neck to .01. Then punch in 1 for rescaling your Head’s bip_neck or bip_head and it should go back to default size. (Try this with a regular model from TF2 with Pte Jack’s HWM heads for the best example of this. Your neck might be a little weird.)
I saw this one in a pony SFM tutorial and I think I find this one a little easier to deal with. Shrink the bip_head down of your Body. Shrink your Head’s bip_pelvis down to .01 and attach everything as is, but attach Body’s bip_neck to bip_pelvis. This doesn’t cause auto-rescale because the bones don’t match. Once locked on, rescale Head’s bip_head to 1.
If anybody’s got any other ideas or headhack methods that have worked out pretty well for you (within SFM, we all know how to Photoshop or how it works modelling-wise), send it in!
