Picher, Oklahoma: Poison City
The West is littered with ghost towns. Formerly bustling communities went belly-up when the local industry, usually mining or drilling, dried up, leaving no money and no reason for anyone to stay. In Oklahoma, places like Ingalls, Boggy Depot, and Provine, among dozens of others, offer little more than a few scattered buildings, perhaps a cemetery, and a handful of fading memories.
A tour these old communities can be an exciting and enjoyable adventure into urban exploration. It's an entirely different experience, however, to see a ghost town in the making. Picher (pronounced "pisher"), tucked away in the northeastern corner of the state, is a community in the spasmodic throes of death, just a few rattled breaths from the end. A town that just a few decades ago buzzed with the activity of twenty thousand Oklahomans now houses just a few hundred. Its main street is lined with vacant businesses, and the outer walls of unoccupied buildings display notices marking them as "condemned."
A pass through its tranquil streets reveals the reason why. Picher is a town literally poisoned by its own success. What might appear at first to be gravelly hills are actually massive piles of contaminated chat, the polluted remains from years of lead and zinc mining. The tainted mounds, some measuring as much as a hundred feet high, fill nearly every available space between homes and businesses.
And where there aren't piles, there are sinkholes. The abandoned tunnels that crisscross just feet beneath Picher's sod are collapsing, opening up cavities large enough to ingest entire houses. In 1967, a single collapse swallowed nine homes in a single gulp. A hundred more, according to a study performed in 2006, are in eminent danger of the same fate. Residents report a daily rumbling beneath the earth. Cave-ins have become such a hazard that the highway into town has been closed to heavy trucks and the city park has been fenced off lest the ground consume Picher's few remaining children.
Lead-contaminated dust blows through town, breathed in by the residents who have yet to move away. Nearby Tar Creek runs orange with acidic water seeping from the mines. The ponds that dot the landscape glimmer with a strange, blue-green hue. Before anyone knew better, the enormous chat piles were used for sledding, biking, and picnicking. In the 1990s, a frightening study revealed elevated levels of lead in the blood of Picher's schoolchildren. It's been called "one of the worst environmental nightmares in the country."
The mines closed in the 1970, and soon thereafter Picher and about forty surrounding acres were recognized by the U.S. government as a toxic hazard. The area, cleanup of which has proceeded at the pace of nauseated snail, remains one of the oldest and largest Superfund sites in the nation. Recent property buyouts, however, have helped in moving many of the remaining residents out of harm's way.
As if to drive another nail into Picher's coffin, a devastating tornado tore through the town on May 10, 2008. There were six confirmed deaths and at least 150 injured. Twenty blocks of the town suffered extensive damage with houses and businesses destroyed or flattened. The twister continued eastward, passing just north of Quapaw and Peoria before crossing Interstate 44 into Missouri. This was the deadliest tornado in Oklahoma since the South Oklahoma City tornado of May 3, 1999, which killed thirty-six. The federal government determined that there would be no aid given to rebuild homes, but the buyouts would continue as previously scheduled and people would be assisted in relocation.
When Picher held a parade in the spring of 2008 in honor of the town's nineteenth birthday, only about eight hundred people were left. Save for a few predictable holdouts who refuse to leave their homes on account of a little "harmless" tangerine-colored drinking water, that number is destined to reach zero before long.














