Flight Jacket. Mishka NYC x Death in June. 2011. Photos from ShopBop resale listing.
Death in June is a British, multi-decade spanning “neo-folk” band with roots in the punks scene and a sizable fan base within certain subsets of the subcultures darker leaning corners. They also have a long messy relationship with fascism, specifically as it relates to the Third Reich. Despite originating from a leftwing punk band that used to plat on Rock against Racism shows, the band’s frontman and sole permanent member, Douglas Pierce has flirted with Nazism throughout the project's existence, making references to it in album names, song names, and referencing it liberally in the visual language of the project.
Given all this, I was surprised to see that a streetwear brand known primarily for putting out underground rap mixtapes would see an ideal collaborator in Pierce for a capsule collection of shirts and outerwear. It was immediately obvious, as well, that the brand wanted to highlight Pierce’s controversial image rather than sidestep it: the collection featured a militaristic flight jacket adorned with patches featuring the band’s notorious logo, the Totenkopf skull and bones worn by German SS officers, alongside the “Algis rune” a runic symbol appropriated by the Nazis and still popular with neo-nazi groups, a symbol which features prominently throughout Death in Junes work.
I wish I could say I was surprised- but to be honest I wasn’t. I don’t think Mishka are nazis or even nazi sympathizers, but I do think they courted the controversy and taboo nature of using this imagery to give them some kind of edge or sense of danger. This is often what Pierce himself claims- that the use of Third Reich imagery is provocation rather than proclamation - and who knows, maybe that's true- I certainly hoped it was for a long time, as a fan of the band myself for a long time- but I came to realize that intention can only get you so far. If you are putting out Nazi imagery and Nazis like your music, does it matter that you are supposedly only playing pretend?