_____________________________________________________________________________
! The United Anarchists of America !
! <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> !
! <> THE ANARCHIST'S GUIDE TO CIVILIAN WARFARE <> !
! <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> !
! Written in Association with: !
! With Special Thanks to: !
! "Miscellaneous Anarchy" !
! This is a "monthly" publication....if you would like to have !
! back issues, or would like assistance, please get in contact !
! with me at the number given above, or try to get in touch !
! with The Tracker, wherever he may be. The authors of this !
! material will not take responsibility for its abuse/misuse !
! in any way. Use at your own risk....if you hurt yourself, we !
! CANNOT TAKE RESPONSIBILITY. !
!_____________________________________________________________________________!
Guide to Civilian Warfare and Sabotage page: 1
You would be surprised how many files are out that use what falls under the
category of a "fuse". They assume you just have a few lying around, or know
where to get them. Well, in some parts of the country,fuses are extremely hard
to come by...so this part of our first file is dedicated to fuses. Both are
very simple to make, and are fairly reliable:
Slow Burning Fuse (2 in. per minute approx.)
---> cotton string or 3 shoelaces
---> potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate
1. wash the cotton string or shoelaces in HOT soapy water, then rinse
2. mix the following together in a glass bowl:
1 part potassium nitrate or potassium chlorate
3. Soak strings or shoelaces in this solution.
4. Twist/braid 3 strands together and allow them to dry.
5. Check burn rate to see how long it actually takes.
note: the few inches of this fuse to be inserted into the explosive device
must be coated with a black-powder paste to ensure its reliability.
Fast Burning Fuse (40 in. per minute)
1. moisten powder to form a paste
2. twist/braid 3 strands of cotton together
3. rub paste into string and allow to dry
Guide to Civilian Warfare and Sabotage page: 2
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+ How to make POTASSIUM NITRATE for +
+ ---> 3.5 gallons of nitrate bearing earth or other material +
+ ---> 1/2 cup of wood ashes +
+ ---> bucket or other similar container about 4 - 5 gallons +
+ ---> 2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each a bit bigger than +
+ the bottom of the bucket +
+ ---> shallow dish or pan at least as large in diameter as +
+ ---> shallow, heat-resistant container +
+ ---> 2 gallons of water +
+ ---> something to punch holes in the bottom of the bucket +
+ ---> 1 gallon of any type of alcohol +
+ 1. punch holes on the inside bottom of the bucket, so that +
+ the metal is "puckerd" outward from the bottom +
+ 2. spread cloth over holes in bottom +
+ 3. place wood ash on cloth; spread it out so that it covers +
+ the entire cloth and has about the same thickness +
+ 4. place 2nd cloth on top of the wood ashes +
+ 5. place the dirt or other material in the bucket +
+ 6. place bucket over shallow container (note: it may need +
+ supports on the bottom so the drain holes are not blocked) +
+ 7. boil water and pour it over the earth very slowly. Do NOT +
+ pour it all at once, as this will clog the filter on the +
+ 8. allow water to run through holes into the shallow dish on +
+ 9. be sure water goes through ALL of the earth +
+ 10. allow water in dish to cool for an hour or so +
+ 11. carefully drain the liquid in the dish away, and discard +
+ the sludge in the bottom +
+ 12. boil this liquid over a fire for at least 2 hours. Small +
+ grains of salt will form - scoop these out with the paper +
+ 13. when the liquid has boiled down to 1/2 its origional volume+
+ 14. after 1/2 hour add equal volume of the alcohol; when this +
+ mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals +
+ appear. This is the potassium nitrate. +
+++++++++++++++++++++++++ PURIFICATION +++++++++++++++++++++++
+ - redisolve crystals in small ammount of boiling water +
+ - remove any crystals that appear +
+ - pour through improvised filter then heat concentrated +
+ - spread out crystals and allow to dry +
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Guide to Civilian Warfare and Sabotage page: 3
ELECTRIC BULB INGNITER NAPALM-BULB
---------------------- ! -----------
---> electric bulb ! ---> electric bulb (100w)
---> socket ! ---> 1/4 cup soap chips
---> black powder ! ---> 1/4 cup kerosene or gasoline
---> adhesive tape ! ---> lighter or small blow torch
1. drill a small hole in the top ! ****** note: make this in an ******
of the bulb near the threads ! ****** open area. Nasty FUMES******
2. carefully pour the black powder! ****** are given off. ******
into the hole...enough so that !
it begins to touch the filament! Procedure:
3. insert into socket as normal...! 1. heat kerosene/gasoline in a
4. get the hell out ! double boiler; melt soap chips
! ..stirring slowly. Put somewhere
When they turn this sucker on, glass! and allow to cool.
fragments fly like the devil...useful ! 2. heat the threads of the bulb
as an over-head fragmentation grenade.! VERY carefully to melt the glue.
______________________________________! Remove threads, slowly drawing
! out the filament..DONT BREAK THE
CHEAP ELECTRICAL IGNITERS ! FILAMENT OR THIS WONT WORK.
========================= ! 3. pour the liquid into the bulb,
! and slowly lower the filament
Materials: ! back down into the bulb; make
---> pack of 100 silicon diodes! sure the filament in dipped into
(available at radio shack;! the fluid.
you know you got the right! 4. re-glue the threads back on;
ones if they are very,very! insert into a socket frequently
small glass objects.) ! used by the intended victim...
---> 1 candle ! When the victim flips the switch,
! they're in for a BIG SURPRISE!
Procedure: !________________________________________
1. light the candle and allow a large pool of molten wax to form in the
2. take a single match and hold the glass part of a single diode against
the head....bend the wires around the head so that one wraps in an
upward direction and then sticks out to the side...do the same with
the other wire, but in a down ward direction. The diode should now be
hugging the match head, but its wires MUST NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER!!!!
3. dip the match head in wax to give it a water-proof coat (these work
4. repeat steps 1 - 3 to make as many as you want
When these little dudes are hooked across a 6vDC battery, the diode reaches
what is called break-down voltage. When most electrical components reach this
voltage, they usually produce great ammounts of heat and light, while quickly
melting into a little blob. This heat is enough to ingite a match head. These
are recomended for use under water, where most other ingniters refuse to
Guide to Civilian Warfare and Sabotage page: 4
---> 1 plastic drain pipe, 3 feet long, at least 3 1/2 inches in diameter
---> 1 smaller plastic pipe, about 6 inches long, 2 inches in diameter
---> 1 large lighter, w/ fluid refills (this gobbles it up)
---> 1 pipe cap to fit the large pipe, 1 pipe cap to fit the smaller pipe
---> 1 SPST rocker switch
---> 1 6v polaroid potapulse battery
---> 1 5v relay (get this at radio shack)
1. cut the bell wire into 3 equal pieces, and strip the ends
2. cut a hole in the side of the large pipe, the same diameter as the
small pipe; thread the hole and one end of the small pipe. They should
3. take a piece of scrap metal, and bend it into an "L" shape, then
attach it to the lever on the lighter like so:
/----------- gas switch is here
! lighter ! ! <--- metal lever
Now, every time you pull the "trigger", gas should flow freely from
the lighter; you may need to enlarge the "gas port" on the lighter,
if you wish to be able to fire more rapidly.
4. connect 2 wires to the two posts on the switch
5. cut to holes in the side of the smaller tube, one for the switch on
the bottom, and one for the metal piece on top; then mount the switch
in the bottom, running the wires up and out the top; mount the
lighter/trigger in the top; now the switch should rock easily, and
the trigger should cause the lighter to pour out gas. Re-screw the
smaller tube into the larger one, hold own the trigger a bit, let it
go, and throw a match in there; if all goes well, you should get a
6. get hold of the relay, and take off the top:
2 --------/ <---- the center object is the metal
^ finger inside the relay
Guide to Civilian Warfare and Sabotage page: 5
Connect (1) to one of the wires comming from the switch; connect
(2) to (4), and connect (5) to one side of the battery; connect the
remaining wire from the switch to the other side of the battery;
now you should be able to get the relay to make a little "buzzing"
sound when you flip the switch and you should see some tiny little
7. now, carefully mount the relay on the inside of the large pipe,
towards the back; screw on the smaller pipe; tape the battery to
the side of the canon barrel (yes, but looks arent everything)
8. you should now be able to let a little gas into the barrel and
set it off by flipping the switch.
9. put the cap on the back end of the large pipe VERY SECURELY. You
are now ready for the first trial-run.
Put something very very large into the barrel, just so that in fits
"just right". Now, find a strong guy (the recoil will probably knock you
over if you arent careful). Put on a shoulder pad, and earmuffs, and
possibly some other protective clothing. Hold the trigger down for 30
seconds, hold on tight, and hit the switch. With luck and the proper
adjustments, you should be able to put a frozen orange through 1/4 plywood
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+ Household Equivalents +
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
acacia..................................gum arabic
acetic acid.............................vinegar
aluminum oxide..........................alumia
aluminum potassium sulfate..............alum
aluminum sulfate........................alum
ammonium carbonate......................hartshorn
ammonium hydroxide......................ammonia
ammonium nitrate........................saltpeter
ammonium oleate.........................ammonia soap
amyl acetate............................bannana oil
barium sulfide..........................black ash
carbon carbinate........................chalk
carbon tetrachloride....................cleaning fluid
calcium hypochloride....................bleaching powder
calcium oxide...........................lime
calcium sulfate.........................plaster of paris
carbonic acid...........................seltzer
cetyltrimethylammonium bromide..........ammonium salt
ethyline dichloride.....................dutch fluid
ferric oxide............................iron rust
furfuraldehyde..........................bran oil
glucose.................................corn syrup
Guide to Civilian Warfare and Sabotage page: 6
graphite................................pencil lead
hydrochloric acid.......................muriatic acid
hydrogen peroxide.......................peroxide
lead acetate............................sugar of lead
lead tero-oxide.........................red lead
magnesium silicate......................talc
magnesium sulfate.......................epsom salts
methyl salicylate.......................wintergreen oil
naphthalene.............................mothballs
phenol..................................carbolic acid
potassium bicarbonate...................cream of tarter
potassium chromium sulfate..............chrome alum
potassium nitrate.......................salt peter
sodium dioxide..........................sand
sodium bicarbonate......................baking soda
sodium borate...........................borax
sodium carbonate........................washing soda
sodium chloride.........................salt
sodium hydroxide........................lye
sodium silicate.........................a water glass
sodium sulfate..........................glaubers' salt
sodium thiosulfate......................photographers hypo
sulfuric acid...........................battery acid
sucrose.................................cane sugar
zinc chloride...........................tinners fluid
zinc sulfate............................white vitriol
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