The situation wasn't helped by the fact that the middle managers were serving us from what looked like an overcrowded aquarium under which someone had briefly passed a Bunsen burner. Fish that with a moment's veterinary attention could have been returned to the wild to resume fulfilling lives found their way in preposterous numbers on to our plates, and at one stage I swear I was eating some sort of anal sphincter. I would have to admit, under questioning, that I have never seen an anal sphincter detached from its host and I hope that I never do, but if the rubbery ring on my plate wasn't such a sphincter then I'd like to know what was.
Margrave of the Marshes (2005), John Peel (the genius of)











