So what exactly is the difference between AHAs and BHAs?
Both act as skin exfoliants, but they have different properties that produce different effects.
AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) are considered "Water-soluble," and BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) are considered "oil-soluble."
So what does that mean? AHAs work on the skin's surface, while BHAs (like salicylic acid) work on the surface and within the pores.
If you're primarily looking for dry skin relief or anti-aging, try AHAs. If you want to tackle acne try BHAs. However, because both AHAs and BHAs make the skin more susceptible to sun damage, it is important to at least wear SPF 30 for adequate protection.
Clears excess dead skin buildup
Reduces the concentration of calcium ions
Helps fade hyperpigmentation
Restores moisture & plumpness
Helps pores clear & minimizes the appearance
Prevents the appearance of acne
What are the side effects of AHAs and BHAs?
AHA can have possible side effects. If you're new to exfoliants it can irritate or experience mild itching as you get used to the product. While many seem to have no problem with AHA people with inflammatory skin conditions such as:
May find the acids irritating to the skin. If you have any of these skin conditions I suggest going to a dermatologist first, or patch test the product before applying it all over your face.
BHAs can dry or irritate your skin. Avoid using it on open skin (like acne wounds), active infection, or if you have a known allergy to it.
Can you combine AHAs and BHAs?
While AHAs, as earlier mentioned, are typically used to treat anti-aging and discoloration, as they are the more "aggressive" exfoliators and BHAs are more known for acne-prone skin due to their antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, they can be combined!
A combination of the two can work, however, if you overdo it it can compromise your skin barrier. Resulting in irritation, redness, and other complications. However good use and combination can increase collagen production and the skin barrier can become visibly plumper.
Still, you don't want to layer AHAs and BHAs on top of one another. Better use a product that has both of these instead of two individual products on top of one another on the skin, as it can cause dryness and irritation.
You can use AHAs and BHAs on altering days. The strategy is to use the acids on certain parts of your face only. For example, apply on dry areas AHA and on oily/combination skin areas BHA.
I also suggest only using an exfoliant once or twice a week. In the end, it comes down to your skin type, sensitivity, and skin goals.
Which one should you choose for your skin goals?
AHA's are primarily used for:
Mild hyperpigmentation liek age spots, melasma, and scars
Fine lines and surface wrinkles
Even though AHAs are often known to be safe for all skin types, you may want to watch out for overusing them if you have extremely dry and sensitive skin. Gradually work up daily use to avoid irritation of the skin.Â
BHA is primarily used for:
This product dies into your pores and dries out excess oils and dead skin cells to unclog your pores. Because of this BHA is more suited for combination with oily skin types. If you have sensitive skin as well lower usage can be done. You may also be able to reduce your rosacea-related redness with BHAs.
AHAs effects can slightly vary between the types of acid. You should select an AHA with a concentration between 10 and 15 percent. Apply the product every other day till your skin gets used to it. This will reduce the risk of side effects, such as irritation.
Remember no matter what exfoliant you use, it will make your skin more sensitive to the sun. So remember to wear sunscreen every morning to prevent burns and age spots.
Glycolic acid is the most common type of AHA. It is made with the plant: sugar cane.
It is an all-around treatment for many skin concerns. Thanks to its antimicrobial properties, it may even help prevent acne breakouts.
Lactic is another common type of AHA. Unlike other AHAs that are made of fruits, this acid is made from lactose in milk and helps with anti-aging effects.
Tartaric acid is made from grape extracts and can help alleviate signs of sun damage and acne.
Citric acid is made from citrus fruit extracts. Its main purpose is to neutralize the skin's pH level and even out rough patches of skin. It makes a good serum or toner before applying moisturizer. It can even help provide maximum UV protection when wearing your sunscreen after.
Malic is an AHA-BHA crossover. It's made from apple acids. Compared to other malic acids, however, it doesn't seem as effective as a solo ingredient. You may find other acids more effective.
Mandelic acid contains larger molecules and is made from almond extract. Combined with other AHAs it can increase the exfoliant. Used alone, the acid can improve skin texture and pore size.
BHAs are designed for daily use. You may need to apply it a few times a week the first time you use a new product so your skin can get used to it. Although BHA doesn't make your skin as sensitive as AHAs, you should still wear sunscreen after use.
This is the most common BHA. Its concentration can range between 0.5 and 5 percent. It is a well-known acne treatment, but can also help calm down redness and inflammation.
While primarily used in AHAs, it can also be used in BHAs. Rather than to even out the pH level of your skin, it helps to dry out excess sebum and clean out dead skin cells deep within your pores.
AHAs and BHAs share similar benefits. You can use either one of them as exfoliation depending on your skin type.
However, each ingredient can be used to achieve different skincare goals. If you're looking for all-inclusive and anti-aging I suggest using AHAs. If you want to calm down inflammation and get rid of acne use BHA.
If you're still not sure which one is best for you, I suggest contacting your dermatologist. They can answer any questions you have and recommend specific ingredients and products for you to try out.
