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WOW... It's over
It went by so fast. C u soon / again.
Like Ice in the Sunshine
Melting away. Du kannst einfach glücklich sein. 4 Tage Faulenzen im Kilimani Kwetu in Bwejuu. Kilometerlanger schneeweisser feiner Sandstrand, 36°C warme Luft & 36°C warmes Wasser. Das Leben ist nochmals langsamer als in Dodoma. Ja das geht. Aufstehen, ein bisschen Sport, gutes Frühstück, in der Sonne schmoren, überrascht sein, dass es schon 4 Uhr ist, erstes Bier trinken. Mit Clemens, und 3 weiteren lustigen Deutschen über Gott, die Welt und deutsche Politik diskutieren und zwischendurch Literatur verschlingen. Mit der Sonne zu Bett gehen und alles wieder von vorne. Man gewöhnt sich relativ schnell daran. Der "verrückte" Inder von nebenan hat einen Sprungturm gebaut, der bei Flut benutzt werden kann. Man stelle sich vor: Ein vielleicht 4 jähriges Kind greift nach meiner Hand, springt mit mir ins Meer und kann nicht schwimmen.
kilimani.de
Gehen, wenn's am schönsten ist
Das hätte ich nicht gedacht, aber nach all dem Reisen ist Dodoma doch die schönste aller bereisten Städte hier in Ost Afrika. Als ich vor einem halben Jahr hier angekommen bin, dachte ich noch; "Och nö, wär ich doch zwischen Morogoro und Dodoma ausgestiegen, hier ist ja nichts ausser Sand und Steinen." Erst jetzt ist mir aufgefallen, dass sich Dodoma genau so präsentierte, wie ich mich zu dieser Zeit noch gefühlt habe. Nach der kurzen Regenzeit ist nun aber alles grün, die Menschen haben überall Mais angepflanzt, die Avocados sind fast reif (ich verpasse die Avocado-Season!) und die Bäume tragen hübsch anzusehende gelbe Blüten. Es ist wunderbar warm, aber nicht zu heiss, wie das Wetter an einem der zu seltenen perfekten Sommertage in Bern. Ich habe das Gefühl Dodoma gibt sich extra Mühe mir den Abschied so schwer als nur irgendwie möglich zu machen... Ein neuer Zivi, Tobi, ist angekommen, bewohnt nun "mein" Zimmer und reist schon unbekümmert im Zeugs rum. Jaja die Jugend. Mike hat sich mittlerweile auch bestens eingelebt und tut was er am liebsten tut: Bier trinken ;-). Ich wünsche euch beiden weiterhin eine tolle Zeit, aber die werdet ihr so oder so haben! Die Menschen gehen ihren gewohnten Tätigkeiten nach und es ist schön zu sehen, dass es ihnen gut geht. Ich habe hier einige Freunde angetroffen und wer weiss wo sich unser Weg wieder einmal kreuzen wird. Wie ich schon vor ein paar Wochen geschrieben habe; ich werde so einiges vermissen aber trotzdem fühlt sich der Gedanke zurück in die Schweiz zu gehen, gar nicht so schlecht an. Es bleibt mir nur noch etwas zu sagen: Shukrani, danke euch allen für die grossartige Zeit! Ich gönne mir jetzt noch ein paar sonnige Tage auf Sansibar1 :-).
1 Safari: 455km, ~7h (Reist nicht mit der Shukran Buslinie. Auch nicht, wenn zum Beispiel alle anderen Busse auf Tage ausgebucht sind, weil die Studenten von UDOM Ferienbeginn haben. Shukran hat die Sitze in einem noch engeren Abstand hintereinander-geschweisst als die Flugzeugbestuhlung der Billigflieger), 3h Fähre nach Stone Town.
Slightly disturbing
Who takes a chicken to the local veterinary and which pet shop sells cows, goats and chickens? The entrance to what other business could this be? All-clear, it's a veterinary after all!
Cleaning Up
Back in Dodoma, preparing to leave back to Switzerland. The application I programmed during my time as Swiss Civil Servant for MAF Dodoma has been in usage for the last two months. I'm fixing the usual minor bugs that have surfaced and implementing some change requests. Assembling travel items. Saying goodbye to everybody.
Closing the circle
Travelling1 from Kigali/Rwanda to Dodoma/Tanzania. 2 days with an overnight stay in Kahama.
1 Safari: 988km
Self Service
There's evil in all of us. A Cherokee Indian story describes it this way: On old man was explaining to his grandson the nature of good and evil: He said, "My son, there is fight between two wolves inside us all. One is Evil. It is anger, envy, jealousy, greed, arrogance, self-pity, resentment, inferiority, lies, false pride, and ego. The other one is Good. It is joy, peace, love, hope, humility, empathy, generosity, truth, compassion, and faith." The grandson looked at his grandfather with fear in his eyes and asked, "Which wolf wins?" The old Cherokee simply replied, "The one you feed." This is such a lovely story: so simple and yet so true. Every one of us has these two wolves running around inside us. They're feed daily by the choices we make with our thoughts.
Paradis
Stayed the last couple of days relaxing in a beautiful and friendly place1 at Lake Kivu. It's amazing how many birds fly around in this countries. The amount of species is astonishing. The Black-rumped Waxbill has a mask around it's head that looks like the one of Zorro, but in red. So beautiful. The one in the picture is a Pied Kingfisher. Have to restrain myself from not becoming one of those weird bird admirers with binoculars and a book.
paradisemalahide.com
Parc National des Volcans
Visiting the Amohoro mountain gorilla group, consisting of 18 individuals after climbing for several hours up to 3000 meters above see level while they were chilling.
More Gorillaz
I'm going to track Gorillas again! In comparison to the struggles in Uganda, it has been ridiculously easy to secure a permit. Went directly to ORTPN (Office Rwandais du Tourisme et des Parc Nationaux), chose the date, payed 300 US$ (Tanzanian Residence Permit FTW!) and that's it. Next Tuesday is Gorillaz Day 2. Yes!
Driving in blue
Travelling1 from Kampala/Uganda to Kigali/Rwanda. Through the night. Very fast, not very safe. Shouldn't do that anymore I guess...
1 Safari: 508km
Bwindi Impenetrable National Park
A dense rain-forest with steep slopes smelling like a tasty soup with lots of herbs. Here live almost half of the world's surviving mountain gorillas; an estimated 340 individuals. I was lucky to grab a permit for staying for one hour with the Bitukura gorilla family, consisting of 13 individuals. To 97% identical DNA, joking and looking wise. Time is relative and after what felt like 15 minutes we had to leave again.
Queen Elizabeth National Park
Preface: After watching birds I felt like seeing something bigger. That's why I called a local tour operator1 in the evening after reading for the entire day. He was nearby and we met and negotiated about a private safari. He made a very friendly and trustworthy impression to me and after handing over some money to fill the Land Cruiser's tank for the next day I was left anxiously awaiting the next morning in anticipation what we'll see. I haven't slept well, and I'm already awake before the alarm goes off. It's early in the morning. Robert and his wife Doreen pick me up from the White House Hotel. It's still dark. There we go. The hunt may begin. Right as we enter the park, we see a Spotted Hyena, an ugly creature but a very rare view and a great start into the day. Soon after that there is the sound of excited trumping coming in our direction. Mating elephants, full of hormones running around like crazy. Funny. After seeing some female lions from very close we drive on and are lucky to see hunting ones engaging some suspicious antelopes. I really want to see Rhinos, but there are none in the park. Still haven't seen any Rhino in the wild. It's getting hot and the animals begin to disappear into the shade of the patches of low bushes and trees that are like small green island in the low brown grass of the Savannah. Time to leave back to the main road. For the time until lunch, I've decided to go on a drive up and along volcanic craters, also a part of the park. We're about to enter a Tsetse infested area. A ranger warns us and recommends to close the windows. Soon they fly like Dolphins swimming in front of a boat along with the car. They look nasty. Why are there no pretty blood sucking insects? It would kind of ease the thought of getting bitten... The closed windows have a side-effect. It gets very hot and sticky in the car. We have to open them and for the next hour we are battling the beasts inside the car. There sting hurts, but not as much as I've imagined. I don't care much that I only wear shorts, because they even manage to bite through clothing. Robert has the bad job driving the car and concentrating on the extremely bumpy road while Doreen and I try to kill all the flies. Suddenly they are all gone and we're finally able to admire the scenery. Rangers put some bush fires, but there are still parts of rich green fields of grass. An amazing view and totally worth the hassle with the flies. Before lunch, we visit a very expensive lodge and then we order three portions of fish, rice and matooke (mashed bananas) at a nearby local place. Good food, but with a tad too much of curry. When we begin to eat, we get company of two greedy Marabou Storks and one Warthog. The Warthog tries to steal food from the kitchen and then goes sleeping under a tree next to the house. The storks are begging for food and we throw fish-bones at them. They're very skilled to catch them out of the air. After lunch, I go together with Doreen on a two hour boat trip on the channel connecting Lake Edward and Lake George. There are almost too many animals around. I get tired of listening to the very knowledgeable guide, who knows the name of every bird and animal she spots and hitting the shutter button of my camera way too often. We see loads and loads of Elephants, Kingfishers, African Fish Eagles, Buffaloes, Hippopotamus, Black-and-White Colobus and many other species. Lots of material to process for the next couple of nights to come. After we reach the shore, we go back to the car, where Robert enjoyed a refreshing nap while waiting for us. I'm tired, it's been a long day. As we're driving quietly out of the park listening to some Michael Jackson songs, Robert spots a Leopard right besides the road. He goes hard on the breaks. Panic in the car, we are not prepared at all. He shouts at me: "Get your camera!". I reach into my backpack, grab the camera, throw the lid away, open the roof, scramble outside. Black sensor. Crap! Canon-camera-Sigma-lense-malfunction. All black. I fumble around, turn it off and on again. Finally it's working. But I've lost valuable time and only manage to take a picture of the Leopards tail as it leaves for the bushes. We are all on fire. We cheat and follow the Leopard with the car. There it is, I take picture after picture while Robert is still driving. Then it's gone. Down to the water. Wow! I've never seen a Leopard that close before. And this one was a big one! What an experience. We're not tired at all any more. We drive back to Kasese in a happy mood. It didn't need the spotting of the Leopard for a perfect day, but it was the icing on an already delicious cake. What a day!
1 Robert Franco Centenary RWEFUMA Safaris P.O. Box 98, Kasese / Uganda +256 772 573 399 [email protected] rwefumasafaris.com
Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary
Went watching birds. Birds are tiny.
Rafting the Source
In Jinja, where the water that leaves Lake Victoria for its 6'650km journey, is called the Nile. One of the world's most spectacular white-water rafting destinations, with class IV and V rapids. Big fun1! Water temperature: 27°C Air temperature: one of a warm and sunny summer day Number on my sunscreen bottle: 30 Rapids mastered gloriously: 4 Rapids failed miserably: 4 Nile water drunk: Not enough to cause a difference to the water level, but enough for the day.
1 adrift.ug
Entebbe
No time to write more than: Chapati-Head, breathing dust, Monkeys can be scary too, Boda-Boda, Mirinda-Pepsi, Matooke. Almost forgot: Uganda is beautiful!