Four Dalmations
Croatia June 14-22, 2019
Quick summary - 7 days in the Dalmatian Coast - 2 nights in Spilt, 2 nights in Hvar, 3 nights in Dubrovnik. Weather was incredible with blue skies every day, highs in the 80s and lows in the 70s. Much warmer than I expected as winds were nil. See final thoughts after.
Saturday, 6/14
Landed Dubrovnik after a new direct flight from Philly (which apparently is a big deal as all the Croatians knew about and asked us about it. Maybe the only direct flight from the US.) We were driven to Spilt to start our journey. About a 4 hour drive (and through the odd little stretch of Bosnia, which is a pain for passport checks,) it is very picturesque along the coastline seeing the water the entire time, the oyster “fields,” the agricultural valley, and vineyards all along the way. Also lots of open mouth naps en route.
We arrived to a very crowded Split...can’t imagine July and August. We were staying at the Hotel Vestibul, which is a unique and modern very small hotel carved out of the vestibul of the Diocletian Palace, a huge walled former palace of the Roman Emperor Diocletian, built around 230 AD and now Spilt’s Old Town. In the Dark Ages, it became a village within the walls and remains the old town today full of narrow passageways and charming nooks and piazzas. You can dodge the crowds once on the interior away from the Dalmatian singers, cruise ship crowds, weekenders, and waterfront. Once inside, you will find a sophisticated and hip world full of restaurants and shops and millions of sobe (rooms.) The Croats are not dumb with every enterprising option possible for travel to the islands, activities, açaí bowls, etc.
Tip - I’m not an AirBnB person, but Europe apparently is a great place to do it as they are all supposed to be quite nice.
A mix of all its past history, Croatian food illustrates this as evidenced on the menu. Lunch was the highlight after long travels and the hotel suggested Uje Oil, clearly a modern enterprising owner (tapas like olive oil bar) where we landed at an outside table for a perfect meal of trying the Croatian favs including Italian-like arugula pesto pasta, sausages showing the Hungarian influence, and pasticada, the traditional stew over gnocchi for a mix of the two. Known for its wines, fun fact is that Croatia has been traced as the origin of the Zinfandel grape. We dove in with a light white from Istria, the Malvasia grape. Perf. nap. Eat again at Brokeria, a very hip, casual buzzy spot inside the palace walls. A sparkling rose from Istria from the Tehran grape, octopus on the grill, pasta with truffles (in season and not crazy expensive like in Italy,) smoked seafood risotto and sea bass over a cauliflower mash. Nice. (Others to consider are Zoi and Paradox.)
Sunday, June 16
Maja #1 (pronounced Maya - 30 letters in the Croatian alphabet with lots of consonants) met us at 10am for a historical tour of the Diocletian Palace and surrounding area which was quite interesting taking you from the evolvement of all of the Croatian history from the late Roman Empire, to the Dark Ages of the Barbarians to the Middle Ages of the Christians to the Renaissance of the Venetians Empire, through to a short stint of the Napoleonic French through the Austrian Hapsburgs. (Oh and home to some of the Game of Thrones filming.)
Afterwards, we went to the Kozjak Mountain slope around the Kastel township for a private lunch. Most interesting was listening to Maja talk about where she lived. Her family was originally from the area, but her parents had left and moved to Sarajevo for better work opps. Their summer home was still in the area. When the war broke out with Serbia in 1992 invading first on the Dalmation coast, they told family to move to Sarajevo. That was poor advice as then the Serbs invaded Bosnia and Sarajevo. Her family escaped Sarajevo back to the coast. In this area, you typically lived in good size homes, but of several apartments with other family members, with your own bit of olive trees, maybe fruit trees (cherries in season now,) small vineyard, etc. Enough to make your own of each (or have small producers make for you.) Lunch setting was in a peaceful (Biblical) park with a vineyard and church backdrop. The weather was gorgeous, but hot. The five course meal was remarkable with local pairings of wine. Most notable was the Zinfandel and various types of posip and plavac mali wines.
Back for down time, which Relia and I spent in Zara before we reworked our plans of going to Dvor restaurant on the coast and hiring a boat to take us to Trogir, Croatia’s Little Venice. An small island about 30-40 minutes by car and the same by 20’ center console boat, it is a large marina area, much like the old town of charming limestone mass of buildings and not quite as crowded. The recommended restaurant of TRS was booked, so we landed at Trogar, our chef of the day’s restaurant. It was marginal at best, surprising given the sophisticated and creative meal at lunch, but Robert made us welcome with his final offer of carob rakija liquor. (Other restaurant options suggested was Alka and Marijana.) Back to Split by Uber, plentiful and cheap and always an unusual sensation to me at home and really strange overseas. To bed.
Monday, June 17
Thomas, the Atlantic Marine outfitter skipper met us at the town port just in front of the main gate and Hotel Vestibul entrance in a 25’ motor boat. A two hour ride to the Pakleni Islands off Hvar Island for sun and fun. First swim spot was Stonica, (loved the circled up catamarans pumping pop music for a week of partying. On then to Palmizana Island that has 3 restaurants - we chose the Langanini Bar for lite bites, cabanas, bean bags, and tree cabanas. Most expensive meal yet! but a great change up of Asian food. We headed for Havr Grad (town) to check into the Adriana Spa Hotel, right on the main harbor riva (promenade.) Quite modern, perhaps OTT and thus lacking in some practicalities and maybe Fodor’s is right that it sometimes misses on the 5 star with just small hiccups.) BUT still very lux, sleek and incredible views. We didn’t spa, but it seemed top notch if you like that. Serious breakfast buffet included.
Met our guide at 5pm for an 11k walk to the abandoned village of Malo Grablje for a special dinner at the “home” of a former resident’s whose son opened a restaurant here 10 years ago. The hike was beautiful along the coastal path, but could be shortened by taking a car to the path rather than walking from the hotel. Also would be cooler at this hour since the road is exposed to the afternoon sun and rather toasty. Eat a snack before you go and it is rocky so sturdy shoes. The village was just left by all the inhabitants in the 1960s and now too many family members own the buildings, so they can’t agree on selling anything.
The meal was spectacular with the traditional one pot dish slow cooked in the coals of Peka made with veggies, meats (ours was lamb and veal) or seafood, house made wine and warm just-made sugar coated almonds with Proshec (carob liquor) to finish. Taxi home for sure.
Tuesday, June 18
We met Filip, +385 99 8097 097, our new skipper who was funny and confident with incredible English learned from gaming on War Craft. Off to the Blue Cave, which is a grotto from the volcanic island of Bisevo of incredible blues from the light seeping in under the rock formations. Beautiful and unique, but skippable. Its crowded, though they move the small touring boats along quickly.
We were ready to escape the crowds and swim, so we toured rugged and cave areas of Vis and then to Stinivia cove for a swim. Fairly crowded and the water some debris since its a cove, but still the Adriatic color and temp is totally refreshing. The bathing suit and nationality watching is unending entertainment.
Though there is a small cafe there, we bailed and headed to the port town of Vis Grad which Filip described as large, but was actually small and rather sleepy. He made quick reservation at Tavern (Konoba) Vatrica, which was perfect. Covered terrace on the waterfront, casual with ham and cheese, grilled prawns, salad with creamy feta, Vis rose...perfect. Back for a few more swims at yesterday’s caves by way of the WWI tunnels and lookout plus the WWII submarine tunnel hideout since it was an allied base. The Yugoslavs took it over as there military areas post war.
Cleaned up and a drink in the Hotel Top Bar for the views, a few hands of cards and then a walk to the sunset and apres beach scene at Hula Hula. Def. a scene with bride tribes and more. Canceled our dinner at Gariful - tired of sit down spots and headed to Filip recommended Lola, a small, back street, alley outdoor cafe of excellently prepared “street food”, action packed with the young and DJ thumping remix 90s tunes. Filip also recommended Passarola, a cool and hip looking restaurant off the town square alley with several terraced garden spaces. Would have been perf if we wanted a less casual spot. Back for a rooftop finale round of cards...can’t get enough of the view.
Wednesday, June 19
Yay! Back in the boat with Filip to head to Dubrovnik by way of Korcula, Orebic, and Ston. Korcula, home of Marco Polo and the Silk Road, is a charming town and would be a great place to stay a night or two. Then onto Orebic, on the Peljesac peninsula, considering the best wine growing region in Croatia. We had a stop for a wine tasting at Korta Katarina, a winery estate and lux hotel started by Americans. It was interesting, but unless you are really into wine, skippable. On to Ston, home of the best oysters in the world. A short boat ride to an oyster farmer’s private island to learn about how the oysters are grown, and then a delightful starter of oysters and huge pot of mussels alla buzzara (in white wine, olive oil, garlic and onions) under the shade by the water. Also homemade wine and myrtle berry infused grappa, a very typical aperitif throughout. D.I.V.I.N.E.
Back in the van for an hour trip along the coastline to Dubrovnik. If you thought Spilt was crowded, wow. Though a much smaller city than Spilt, it feels WAY more crowded and much more intense because of being located on the hillside as well as the old city attraction....not to mention the Game of Thrones/Kings Landing magnet.
A reservation mix up which had us for 3 nights at the Excelsior Hotel, switched us to their sister hotel Bellevue. Our Croatian travel agency Calvados Club upgraded our rooms significantly as a result and while it is a 20 minute walk to town vs. a 5 minute walk, it is a smaller hotel, larger rooms and totally renovated on a gorgeous cove that made it feel very private (despite the public beach - all Croatian beaches are public.) Lovely indoor pool, unreal views, very hip and cool. We may have turned out better in the long run.
Poor planning on our fault when we booked the Michelin starred restaurant in Dubrovnik - 360 - for dinner after the oyster and mussels fest. But we were ready and it was quite the gastronomic affair with delightful views and service.
Thursday, June 20
Maja #2, met us to take us to the 3 hr kayak tour from the old city by Fort Lovrijenac around the island of Lokrum and back. Very fun. A few dips and viewing of the nudie beach...a head shaker for me. We walked home so Will could grab a recommended xxxcici sammy while the rest of us ate at the Bellevue beachside cafe and lounged Adriatic style at the Bellevue carved out private beach with umbrellas and chaises, and beach boys while watching the cliff jumpers and reading on the rocky beach. The water temp is just perfect and the water is incredibly clear. I am a huge Adriatic fan.
Maja picked us up at 4 pm for a walking tour of the Old Town concluding with the one mile walk around the city walls for amazing views of the yachts, charming houses, islands and Adriatic. Ready for another break from traditional food and restaurants, we hit a bar on the water built into the walls before having “CroAsian” food at Azur in one of the back/side streets. It was casual and delicious. Highly recommend.
Friday, June 21
Off to the Konavle valley, also known for its wineries and vegetable fields, and fruit orchards to Grude for biking through the countryside and vineyards. Gorgeous backdrop of the stone mountains, cypress trees and once gain crystal blue skies. This area was so named for its system of canals used to irrigate the crops....Roman aqueducts brought water to the area. Very bucolic and well known for its wine and history. A two hour on and off road before meeting Maja to go to a local farm in Cilipi at the home of Marin Vukorep ([email protected]) for a delightful meal very similar to Malo Grablje, but maybe more fun with everything consumed from the farm (prosciutto, goat cheese, bread, olive olive, vegetable purée soup, peka, red and white wine and over 10 homemade rakija varieties with fig, walnut, apricot, etc. Lots of fun - gorgeous setting, relaxing, interesting and another gorgeous day. Debated going to the seaside town of Cavtat, but too full and sleepy!
Back for more Adriatic indulgence and a regroup on dinner (again) after such a large lunch. Bailed on Posat wanting a casual place and discussed Bar Bota for mussels, Kamenice, Tabasco pizzeria, Taj Mahal Bosnian food and Levanat in the Lapad area, but ended up at Mea Culpa pizzeria in the Old Town which was perfect. And that’s a wrap.
Saturday, June 22
Well, not quite as William and I were awaiting the Fort opening at 8am to check it out since we could still use our wall ticket. Check. So long for now.
Final thoughts - We loved everything we did, where we stayed, food and history. The two things we might have changed were the Blue Cave and wine tasting. Everything else was great with enough time to sightsee and yet enjoy the summer time water activities. We might change a few things, but it really depends on one’s MO. We might have stayed in Trogir or Hvar and done a day boat trip to Spilt and Trogir for at least 3 or even 4 nights in the islands perhaps with an overnight in Korcula and maybe just two nights in Dubrovnik. The history is incredible dating back to the Greeks and Romans and throughout right up to modern day with the too recent Yugoslav wars. Mid June is already packed and I would not even think about going in July or August unless you stay on a boat or in the islands. May would be too early for me to enjoy water fun, but Sept should still be very good. Plus July and August would be really hot. Climate is just like NC - hot and humid with lots of the same vegetation. The Croatians are very proud of their country and really do tourism well. It is not a sophisticated 3rd world country like Italy, though there probably is still lots of government corruption and low wages. It is a energized and modern that is savvy about its tourism.