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2046 - Directed by Kar Wai Wong

Figure-hugging cocktail dresses, curvy Chinese cheongsams, and vintage 3-piece suits.

Vintage Hong Kong colonial glamour - What a great way to start off a Sunday.

12:00 PM @ TN. Noon day "Dinner" - true Southern hospitality and traditional home cooking served family style. Well worth the 3 hour round trip.

5:00 AM @ HSV. Intellectual refueling - Getting ready for the day.

The A4 envelope pictured above was a piece that I picked up at Muji a while ago, the envelope is made from the same material as the label on a pair of jeans. It's sturdy and rip resistant. At $5, it's pricier than a regular envelope, but it'll be the only one you ever need.

Evening @ HSV. Work ends, but the colloquium begins.

NYC @ noon. Having more work than time (and less money than either) means lots of work on improvised surfaces. After countless layovers in airports without tables (lookin' at you, ATL!), I've come to appreciate a sturdy work surface for my laptop and notebook.

YYZ @ 6:00 AM. Early morning pilgrimages are much more enjoyable when properly equipped.

Sneak Peek (P.S. I am alive)

Just in case anyone has been wondering where I've been over the last few months. Fret not, I am still alive and have been transitioning from the graduate life to the working life. Here's a teaser shot of one of my newest acquisitions.

In many photos that I see the two blades of a tie appear to be of equal length. This looks great but how can you achieve such a balance when you are 6.1'' and most ties are around 58 inches long??? Does it only have to be bespoke ties???

Bespoke ties are certainly the best way to navigate around the issue of inadequately lengthed neckties. Although some people may (erroneously) discern bespoke garments as perks for the financially blessed and prosperous, bespoke ties are rather inexpensive and priced similarly to their Ready-To-Wear (RTW) counterparts.

For many, Sam Hober is the default option for the commissioning bespoke neckties, for about $75-$80, Sam Hober will make quality ties of any width and length. However, if you are only interested in RTW, this link may be of interest to you.

Blast from the Past - Bespoke Shoe Chest

Bespoke garments like shirts, trousers, suits, and shoes are often said to be the ultimate dedication to the sartorial arts. However, as this photo-heavy exposé shows, the world of bespoke can go a long way beyond garments and accessories.

According to the original post, this bespoke shoe cabinet (approximately 1.2 by 2.2 by 0.5 meters) is made from grade "A" Burmese teak wood and is inspired by a fusion of French and Chinese furniture styles (as evidenced by the nine dragons and three pairs of lions hand carved on the doors and legs).

Equally impressive is the round-up of shoes on the inside of the cabinet - consisting mainly of John Lobbs and Edward Greens - with a steezy Aslan possibly included.

Protip:

Organizing your shoes front-to-back allows you to maximize number of shoes on display. Hiroyuki Hirano's 5S methodology is oddly applicable in menswear.

ethandesu

bespokenn-blog

Going Large

Looking for something fresh? Forget checks and pin dots, and consider a tie with larger floral prints. As long as you exercise conservatism in your choice of colours, not all bold patterns are automatically disagreeable.

landerurquijo-deactivated201703

putthison

bespokenn-blog

The Two-Toned Tie

One way to add some slight visual interest to an otherwise basic tailored look is by wearing a two-toned tie. By that I mean ties that are woven with two different colors of silk. This is typically done on bindings such taffeta, oxford, and nattee, but other variations exist as well. Perhaps the most famous maker of such ties is Charvet, who makes a beautifully iridescent two-toned diamond weave.

Recently, a friend of mine, Thomas Busch, started a new luxury-end neckwear company called Private Label. In his first collection is an assortment of such ties. These look grenadine in nature, but they’ve all been woven with a navy weft and a different color warp. Weft and warp, as you may know, refer to the two different types of yarns that make up a fabric. Pictured above are a four variations. Here we see a navy weft woven with warps in green, soft green, brown, and wine. The weave is neither warp nor weft intensive, but rather shows both to almost equal amounts. Since the colors are similar to each other, the effect is subtle and quiet.

When I visited Antonio Panico last January with Gianluca Migliarotti, both gentlemen were wearing similar ties. In fact, you can see Gianluca’s tie here, which is made by Liverano & Liverano, a bespoke specialist tailor in Florence, Italy.

Mr. Busch’s ties happen to be fully handmade, and of all the people I know in the neckwear trade, he’s one of the most knowledgeable. I’ve been wearing his ties often the last month. Some are a bit heftier and meatier than the unlined varieties that many (including myself) love, but they’re all incredibly nice. The two-toned ties you see above are medium weight, and they make a very nice conical knot. I encourage you to check out his company; it’s a true labor of love by a man who knows a lot about neckwear.

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