El Camino de Santiago
The camino only really revealed itself the moment I stopped. I had made it to Santiago de Compostela, cut across town, squeezing my army pack between its narrow alleys, via a photo in front of the Cathedral. Before me, on the home straight up to the Albergue Seminario Menor was the steepest hill I had encountered on my weeks long journey. One hundred and fifty metres of thigh-burning irony. I shared a joke with the friends I had met on the way, Philipp, Ana and Moritz, and we each grabbed the other and almost ran up the vertical thing, ignoring complaints coming in stereo from battered feet, knees, calves. Coming the other way, looking clean and rested, I shot a âHola!â at a fellow pilgrim and was roundly ignored. The same, when in the foyer, my smiles and eye contact went avoided.
This would never happen on the Camino. You walk up to, and past someone, and immediately have a friend-in-waiting. Youâre bound by the blisters on your feet. You have in common the task, when you woke up that morning: to walk, just walk. There is no class. There is no status. You are equal because you walk, through blisters and heat which knows nothing of the world you live in: just this parallel universe where the only currency is kilometres. The Camino is not the destination, or even really the journey. Itâs giving yourself up to simplicity, and to a world that doesnât care about your car or job. And itâs giving yourself up to humility; you will have to ask for help. And itâs openness and camaraderie, and itâs strangers who become friends.
I usually start in Spanish, when I come across someone along the way. Sometimes, as with the case of my German friends, they screw up the top quarter of their face: brow into nose into narrowed eyes and ask if I speak English. These moments, I turn, hold their gaze and say with a flourish - I am English⌠as if I was a superhero revealing my secret identity. And then a conversation always flows to the soft backing of crunching twigs, how are your feet, where are you from, where are you going, what have you seen. A common one is âwhy?â. Everyone has a reason for walking, even if itâs just pleasure.
For me, I had just broken up with my girlfriend, throwing my holiday plans, and psyche into disarray. I went alone, with no plan, only a map, a compass and an oversized army backpack I borrowed from a friend. I felt the Camino would be a good way to centre myself, do something wholly my own and wholly unsupported. It felt like a good metaphor, and a good opportunity to write a little. For Moritz, he was in the middle of a law degree and an identity crisis. He was here to contemplate changing to focus on psychology. Philipp would soon start a high powered job and wanted a low powered trip. I met two Italian brothers, one of whom had done the Camino before and brought the other to help with his problems, drugs and crime. The brother went slow so for a while we did too. Some did it for religion. Many for pleasure. Many more were not totally sure why but hoped to find so on the way.
On the way, people are open and kind, and it can lead to all sorts of opportunities. The most memorable came on the penultimate night, when, close to Santiago my German companions took out their battered German guidebook. The next town was sure to be full of early risers with barely a bed, as all made their final sprint to Santiago. They suggested a detour, to a monastery which supposedly took guests in the summer. In the spring, perhaps not, but having drunk a beer from a roadside stall one Gallego man had set up in his workshop, and with his suggestion of a motorway motel as backup, we turned right when we should have gone straight. Into the forest, along the bank of the river, through undergrowth and uncertainty. At the end was a thick squat church, a Russian lady speaking in perfect Spanish outside, reclining. Two couples, German and Romanian would join later, and eventually our group made twelve: fitting, said Felix, for Jueves Santo.
So began an odd yet pleasurable evening, without common language and five nations between us, in German, Spanish and English there was one condition. The monks, ancient and few rattling around the quarters and gardens, wanted to kiss the feet of the pilgrims during mass. They did so, as we sat in the sheepish front row as guests of honour, then were treated to Cocido, wine and fruit together, sat at a long table. One of the Padres came with a neon green liquor, made from the PadrĂłn Chillies, and when it burned you werenât sure if it was alcohol or spice. He tapped his nose, said he was yet to patent it, and poured another glass. Victor worked for Romanian television as a foreign correspondent: he covered Obamaâs two election victories, and that of Trump, most recently. I was out of filters, he, out of tobacco. We traded and talked about politics, Brexit and populism. The German couple were psychologists, interesting for Moritz.
These were the people with which I spent my night and these are the things I remember. Perhaps itâs the transitory nature the Camino makes of your friendships which mean people are open and easy. Or perhaps itâs the common path you walk. But the road is much more than what you walk, or who you walk with, itâs a meditative state of mind coming from a purity of objective. It gets into your bones, and suddenly you too are pure like right before left and smiling hola! at everyone you meet.










