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why are you such a loser
and yet you're the one sending anon asks lol
I am gonna study your hamster care you've already posted. But what would you think about a 55g fish tank for a pair of Syrians? I am not going to do this until I have an apartment and cannot keep fish anymore. So I have a lot of time to research. With that much space I'm theorizing that litter mates could live together?
hi, sorry for the very late reply but unfortunately I don't believe that would be adequate - you will need to keep the two Syrians separate even if they are litter mates. you could split the 55g in half with a glass divider (they'll probably chew through plastic if they can find any purchase) but then (assuming it's a standard 55g size), you'd only have 24" x 13" of space per hamster. in regards to your other ask, I would suggest breeder hamsters if you would like an already-hand tame pet, or go to small animal rescues if you are willing to work through the possibility of nervousness. if a first time keeper, I'd recommend breeder. as much as I agree that the poor pet shop hamsters look so sad and they look like they'll go to shitty people who will give them shitty care, I find it best to not support the sort of place that sells mass-produced pets. still, if a particular pet shop ham has caught your eye, don't feel bad if you want to take him or her home; ultimately it's your choice and don't let anyone bully you into thinking otherwise!
How to tell the age of a female syrian hamsters?
there's no particularly accurate way to tell the age of your hamster, male or female, unless you know how old they are when you get them. the only way to know the exact age is to get a hamster from a breeder, who will know their birthdate. otherwise in a petshop, they tend to tell you approximately however many weeks' old it currently is.
I found your blog last night, and was mourning the fact that the petstore I work at didn't carry Hazel Hamster, even though we had similar ones (Gerty Guinea Pig, for example). Lo and behold though, today at work, as we were going through the NEW product to put out for the reset - Hazel Hamster!! I set the lone bag aside and purchased it at the end of my shift. Thank you so much for the suggestion - I had her on Ecotrition before. I can't wait to see if my darling little Rexy likes it!
ah glad you found Hazel Hamster! Hazel/Harry Hamster is arguably the best in terms of nutrition/balance, and is the most recommended complete commercial mix. c: I hope Rexy enjoys it!
my hamster mix
it's been a while since I've posted here (mainly because I forgot oops), but I would like to share what I am currently feeding Hamburglar and Badger.
this here is made up of:
- 1x 700g bag of Harry Hamster, as the base mix. as HH is a complete food, this will contain all the nutrients necessary for good growth and a long, healthy life. - 1x 750g bag of Vitakraft VitaNature Nature Dinner for cockatiels and lovebirds. I added this as I felt the Harry Hamster is quite plain in certain respects and there are bits that my hamsters do not touch (which was why I went for the RatRations mix previously). - 1x 400g bag of Applaws kitten food. this gives extra protein, and a bit of extra texture/taste to the base mix. this is fine to give to younger hams but elderly hams should steer clear as they should not consume as much protein as a growing hamster. - 1x 80g bag of dried mealworms. this is completely personal preference, or more the preference of your hamsters. I probably didn't need to add this as I had already added the kitten food, but it's fine as I can pick them out easily if I feel there is too much in the handful I've added to their bowls. mealworms are another good source of protein, so again I would actually suggest only adding kitten food or mealworms, rather than both like I have. I just can't be bothered to go picking out the mealworms, plus I know they like them. you should test to see if your Syrians like them because not all of them do; most dwarf hams adore them.
ingredients from my additions
Vitakraft VitaNature Nature Dinner for cockatiels and lovebirds: cereals, seeds, fruits (2% banana chips, 1.5% rose hip pods, 0.5% raspberries), minerals, parsley (1.8%), derivatives of vegetable origin, oils and fats. made without colourings, antioxidants and preservatives. there doesn't seem to be a nutritional analysis, only a guaranteed analysis of: 0.80% calcium and 0.30% phosphorus. supplemented additives are: vit A, vit D, manganese, zinc and iodine.
Applaws kitten food: dried Chicken Meal (min. 58%), dried potatoes (min. 10%), chicken mince (min. 9%), poultry oil (min. 7%, source of omega-6), poultry juice (min. 3%), beet pulp (min. 3%), dried whole egg (min. 3%), salmon oil (min. 2.6%, source of omega-3, EPA & DHA), dried yeast, cellulose from plant fiber (min. 1%), minerals, cranberry extract, sodium chloride, calcium carbonate, kelp, cranberries, DL-methionine, potassium chloride, yucca extract, lemon extract, rosemary extract. nutritional additives: vitamin A (25,305 IU/kg), vitamin D3 (1745 IU/kg), vitamin E [A-tocopherol] (558 mg/kg). trace elements: selenium in sodium selenium (0.13 mg/kg), iodine in calcium iodate water-free (1.75 mg/kg), iron in iron sulphate monohydrate (61 mg/kg), copper in copper sulphate pentahydrate (9 mg/kg), manganese in manganese sulphate monohydrate (26 mg/kg), zinc in zinc sulphate monohydrate (140 mg/kg). technological additives: naturally sourced tocopherol extracts.
dried mealworms: 100% mealworms.
of course, I am not saying that this is a perfect mix, or that you should definitely try it. I am posting this info on what I am feeding my Syrians just as a guide and to suggest ideas on what you could possibly add without changing the base mix and therefore the nutritional analysis too much. I know others who mix two base mixes together (eg. Harry Hamster & Burgess Supahamster Hamster Feast) and some who mix in budgie seeds (Trill) with their base mix. variety is the spice of life!
note: best not to take things out of the mixes as you add others, as then you could be playing around too much with the base mix.
note 2: it is always a great idea to supplement with fresh fruit and veg as often as possible (I feed mine every other day, some feed every day). remember though if you are going to up the amount, do it slowly and a bit more at a time.
chunkster
Wow someone who posts lots of hamsters and still likes Petz I think I will watch you forever now! <3
hahah thank you c:
grapes are great.
revision of 'how to hamster part 3'
in 'how to hamster part 3', I spoke about the best mixes available to ham-owners in both US and UK. I would now like to revise a few things because of new info:
- the RatRations mixes are now considered not 'complete' foods, and will need vitamin/mineral supplements OR can be combined with a commercial mix. this applies to both the Syrian and the dwarf hamster mixes.*
- it isn't a sin to feed lab block style foods, especially as in the US you are limited to few good foods, as long as a variety of other foods are supplied as well. you should however still avoid any all-in-one foods that claim to be nutritionally-balanced for multiple types of rodent.
- for those in the US, if you are struggling to find Hazel Hamster, petmountain.com sells 2lb bags for $5!
* this came to people's attention after several found their hamsters losing weight, becoming less active, and/or getting cysts/tumours caused by nutritional deficiencies. I have had personal experience with this - my sister's Winter White, Luigi, lost a lot of weight and slept a lot after a few months on the RR mix, but we initially put this down to old age. however, after we switched him back to Burgess, he has considerably bulked up again and is much more active. this is not to say that the RR mixes are not any good! my two Syrians have been on RR mixes and have not had any problems. I still use it, although I have now mixed in some Harry Hamster and some leftover Burgess. this is simply personal choice!
birthday boy Badger
Hi there. I love your page. I noticed in your food post that you mentioned avoiding "treats specifically for rabbits." I was just wondering why that is the case? Thanks?
this is because rabbit-specific treats and foods usually contain a drug that combats a certain kind of parasite that rabbits often carry. hamsters either cannot get or is very unlikely to be affected by this parasite, they should not be consuming the drug to combat it. apparently this drug could even make hamsters quite ill!
As for the dust/sand issue, I've been aware of the precautions with dust and that's why it bothers me so; it cleans his fur the best. From what I've read, Reptisand is a "safe" company as far as it's been tested by owners, and I have a bag of that too, but all my hamster likes to do is pee and throw his seed husks in it.. He is prone to trying to eat Swheat Scoop, which I use on and off, mostly because I haven't heard a peep about anything bad in it and it's just wheat essentially..
I’m not really sure on these brands as I’m across the pond, but I’ve just googled Reptisand and since it is a quartz-based sand then it should be fine. and he probably eats the Swheat Scoop because it’s made of wheat. my hamsters like to dig and pee in their sandbaths, as does my sister’s dwarf. we rarely see it but sometimes her dwarf does like to roll around in it too; perhaps yours is using it to clean himself but just when you’re not watching?
Thank you for the prompt reply! I currently have a single Russian, though I can't for the life of me tell the difference between WWs and Campbells, mostly because mine has a strong mottled pattern (sigh!), but I'm fairly sure he's a campbells just by how his body's structured. Next on the list of questions is, I was looking for Rat Rations mix and couldn't seem to find it anywhere online, and it seems you're in the EU/UK? I currently feed with Hazel but I'd rather switch and not pick out bits!
if you bought your ham from a pet store, you most likely have a hybrid (mix between a WW and a Campbell’s). even if the store says they are one or the other, I wouldn’t trust them and would just assume it’s a hybrid, for dietary reasons. better to be safe, assume it’s a hybrid, and feed a diet without risk of diabetes, than to guess wrong and end up causing diabetes!
RatRations is only available to the UK and EU unfortunately, and currently the mixes are “on hold” (although if you know what you want/have bought them before, you can still call and order a mix). in the US, Hazel Hamster is the best - most of the other mixes on the US aren’t that great as far as I’ve read. I don’t know of any mixes that don’t have anything sugary in them (in the US; in the UK the Burgess Supahamster Dwarf Hamster Feast doesn’t I think), so whatever you choose to switch to, I think there will be the flaked corn and/or peas you will have to pick out. you could go with a lab block type food but I personally don’t like them myself as they would strike me as boring lol. but really it’s up to you!
re: chinchilla dust vs chinchilla sand vs reptile sand; you don’t want to use actual dust as that can cause respiratory problems. however there are some that are advertised as “dust” but are not so fine in their grains (they are sand-like, basically), and those are ok. I think there are some calcium-based reptile sands that hamsters don’t do well with (too much calcium is bad for hams, and hams do seem to enjoy eating things they’re not supposed to lol), but there are some that are ok too. I personally don’t use or recommend reptile sand only because I don’t know what’s safe and what’s not and would rather not risk it! an alternative is actually play sand (like used for children’s sand pits). obviously the quality with that varies so pick one that isn’t too dusty. the only thing with play sand is you will have to bake it or otherwise dry it out before using.
I really love your how-to-hamster posts! I really think people underestimate the care needed for these little exotics because of their availability. I had some questions though (i'm sorry if you answered them someplace and I haven't seen yet): I know syrians cant be housed together, but I've heard different things about dwarfs; only same-sex littermates, only females (not necessarily littermates), only males (not necessarily littermates)... Or is it simply a hamster-by-hamster preference??
I’m really glad some people are finding my posts useful! it’s true that so many people underestimate how much time and money you need to spend on them, like goldfish. if I’m honest, I don’t think there are any animals that are “easy and cheap” to look after. I’ll answer both your questions in this reply for convenience. :)1. I know syrians cant be housed together, but I’ve heard different things about dwarfs; only same-sex littermates, only females (not necessarily littermates), only males (not necessarily littermates)… Or is it simply a hamster-by-hamster preference??
hybrids, Winter Whites, Campbell’s and Roborovskis are the only hamsters that I would risk cohabitation. the thing about same-sex littermates is passed around because this is most often how you get successful cohabitation - mainly because they have grown up together and are used to each other’s company. however there have definitely been cases of unrelated, same-sex pairings being successful. there is just more of a chance of one rejecting the other. it also doesn’t always have to be littermates or unrelated same-sex pairs - you could pair a mother and daughter or father and son as well. but yes it all really boils down to each hamster. I have known someone with three cohabiting Robos, living happily together for years, when suddenly one started bullying another. the owner removed the bullied one, but found it not enjoying the single life, and switched it so that it was paired back with the neutral party and the bullied one lived on its own, and everyone ended up happy for the rest of their lives.
2. Secondly, I was curious as to what is the proper space needed for a singular dwarf. Everything I see is syrian-specific, or will flippantly say “1 syrian, or 2 dwarves”….. But cutting the space in half for 1 dwarf doesn’t seem right either..
for a singular dwarf, I would recommend nothing smaller than 55 x 40cm, give or take a centimetre. 60 x 40cm would be better but a Mini Duna is technically acceptable with its upper shelf level and that is 55 x 40cm in outer dimensions. it irritates me when advice is only given assuming that all dwarves will be in pairs! there is a myth that dwarves must live or at least be “given the choice” to be in a pair before deciding it must be singular. I have known so so many people who have adopted a single dwarf and very rarely do I hear or read reports of it seeming depressed because it was alone. I don’t think there is anything wrong with getting just one dwarf if you do not think you will be able to cope with the possibility of separating a pairing that has gone sour. better to start off with one that you can cope with than two that you have to rehome.
I hope I’ve answered your q’s sufficiently, but if not, do ask for more detail. :)
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