Family compound in Maine | photos by Greta Rybus
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Game Changer & Make Some Noise
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@compounddreaming
Family compound in Maine | photos by Greta Rybus
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Log Beehives, from Adventures in Natural Beekeeping
A much more hardcore top bar beehive than mine.
(via Get In The Spring Mood With These Plant Filled Homes)
Stay #healthy folks…
An hour every day workout can power your home for twenty-four hours
SensuaLight Photography
•♤♡◇♧•
Wayan Sumardana, the Indonesian welder that made bionic arm out of junk - Watch the video
ジャンクから「バイオニックアーム」を自作したインドネシアの溶接工
THE CYBERPUNK FUTURE IS NOW
This story is dedicated to all those cyberpunks who maKE FUCKING ROBOT ARMS FOR THEMSELVES AND USE IT EVERYDAY
WITH A BOX OF SCRAPS
This legit made me cry. He’s an inspiration and I hope life takes him to a good place. He deserves it.
LIFE IS HARD, DYING IS EASY
@thatonekatta
IN DEFENSE OF TOPPED TREES
A Permacultural Perspective
Most arbourists these days will tell you that tree topping (the practice of pollarding large trunks and branches on mature trees) is an excessively destructive process: it’s largely been replaced in the trade with spiral thinning.
There are a variety of reasons for this advice against tree topping: all having to do with the long-term health and integrity of the tree. The caution against topping trees is relevant for gardeners, landscapers, horticulturalists, arbourists, and city planners, but not neccessarily a hard and fast rule for permaculturalists.
The reasons for this have to do with differing ideas about the function of a tree:
In a heavily-landscaped garden or city street, there may be a few trees that constitute a significant investment, and the aesthetics and maintenance of those trees tie in to property values. Topping compromises the health and durability of the tree, which is fundamentally an economic concern.
In the permacultural ‘food forest’-style garden I’ve built, I currently have 50+ fruiting trees, and I am planting and grafting new trees every day, so it’s not a big deal if one dies. I use pruned lumber for a variety of purposes, and sometimes I deliberately do things that impair the health of a tree – such as planting parasitic mistletoe – in order to create wildlife habitats.
Last year, I topped one apple tree, and did some drastic ‘spiral thinning’ on another. Both survived, with the topped tree sending up much-maligned water sprouts, and the spiral-thinned tree leafing out as usual (albeit with a little sun scorch on the leaves).
Topped Crabapple, with grafted water sprouts
Drastically spiral-thinned canopy on a Skovfoged apple
I’ve noticed that on the topped tree, fungus has begun to be established on the two stumps. Far from being dismayed by this, I am actually overjoyed! If you want to understand why fungus on my apple tree is welcome, look no further than the first picture accompanying this piece of writing.
Topping can stimulate the development of tree hollows, which are vital habitats for bees, beetles, birds, and tree-dwelling rodents like squirrels.
Tree hollows in living trees are cavities where the heartwood has been degraded by fungi or bacteria. Trees compartmentalise decay, and the only actively growing or vascular tissues of a tree are concentrated towards the bark. This means a tree can potentially be almost completely hollowed out, but still continue living.
Bees in a tree hollow
Topping provides an opening for fungi and bacteria to create a cavity in the tree, and thus creates habitat. The excessive growth of water shoots is also a benefit, as timber is a valuable resource for mulch, hügelkultur, and carbon-sequestering soil building.
I’m doing my best to preserve these cavities in trees in the forest garden, even in trees that otherwise seem doomed. In the case of my European Ash tree with developing fungal lesions, instead of getting rid of the tree, I’ve done a bridge graft around the lesion. The hollow will continue to form, but the vascular pathways will remain intact.
Topping trees, like sheet mulching, can essentially be an accelerated way of promoting ecological succession in a forest garden. Fungi and bacteria also have a place in the ecosystem, and naturalistic garden maintenance means embracing those forces, rather than trying to control or eliminate them. We can always plant new trees, but bringing species back from the brink habitat loss-induced extinction is a little harder.
To me, local wildlife is included in the permacultural ethic of ‘fair share,’ as in, they too deserve a fair share of the space and harvest from this garden. You may be surprised at who moves in, when you make them welcome!
Tree Hollow Dwellers
@compounddreaming
Nativity Scene from The Thinking Atheist
@thatonekatta
Gifts for Gardeners
#50: A Marimo
Often incorrectly called a “moss ball,” a marimo is actually a filamentous green algae (Aegagropila linnaei) that naturally grows in a ball-like shape.
These bundles are adapted to life at the bottom of cool freshwater lakes, with a minimal level of light. Those qualities have made them an ideal aquascaping specimen, as they can be cultivated under normal indoor light conditions.
Many people keep a marimo as a sort of low-maintenance “pet” in an office, bedroom, or other low-light environment - the water needs to be changed every so often, but other than that, this cute little ball of algae will likely grow a few millimetres every year with very little intervention.
Image: Hinterland Trading
Gifts for Gardeners
#9: A Bee Hotel
In all the talk about colony collapse among commercially-valuable honeybees, the conservation of the thousands of species of solitary bee is often neglected.
Many of these species nest in cavities in wood, and naturally-occurring tubes like reeds or hollow dry plant stalks.
A bee hotel is a human-made amalgamation of these habitats that allows the gardener to see these processes up close and personal, and facilitates getting to know local bee species. A bee hotel will reward you with increased pollination of your plants for years to come!
Images: ForestFox Trading; and, Ed Phililps Wildlife (check them all out, they’re amazing!)
When we first started our nonprofit in 2000, we focused on the quality of the food we were feeding our disabled dogs. We learned how to distinguish between high quality and low quality by reading ingredient labels and ignoring packaging and marketing hype. Then we began to think about its source — about the animals who ended up in the dog food. Alayne calls it “animal in a bag” and “animal in a can,” though most of us never think of it that way. It’s a lot easier not to think about it. Just open the bag or can and serve. We focus intently on the well-being of the animals in our care, but rarely give any thought to the cows, sheep, chickens, turkeys (and more) who wind up in their food bowls.
I found this while googling “raising rabbits for dog food,” because, well, that sounds like a halfway decent idea: it was surprisingly informative.
Those of you with dogs and cats, take note!
4 Tips For Building Soil From Scratch
Recycle your home, food, and personal waste as fertilizer and mulch to build your garden’s soil quality without spending a dime.
Themed landscapes, such as alpine gardens, bog gardens, rain gardens or xeriscapes, work with soils that are at the extremes of alkalinity, acidity and water saturation, and accordingly rely on both careful plant selection and a working knowledge of soil chemistry and ecology. For your average temperate-zone gardener of edible crops, however, a basic fertile humus soil is what makes or breaks a garden. Building this productive, black soil from scratch takes time and energy, but in this age of rampant soil depletion and concurrent abundance of both food waste and wastewater, it’s a deceptively easy (and cheap) endeavor.
Humus achieves its characteristic black or dark brown color because it’s high in carbon matter. This means it is mostly or exclusively comprised of decayed or decaying organic material, from both plants and animals. A carbon-rich organic humus provides myriad ecological services to an area of cultivation, ranging from increased biodiversity in the soil life web, support and nourishment of mycelial networks, absorption and breakdown of pollutants, increased water retention, and increased nutrient bioavailability and storage.
Instead of purchasing this invaluable commodity, with a few easy best practices, you can make organic soil-building a part of your daily gardening.
Read more on Urban Farm
My latest article is up over at Urban Farm! You can read my archive here.