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@cyalen
homemade koldskål
9 days to Ireland, plus new blog
Hmm. Well, I've been back in the US for 10 days. I miss Copenhagen and my Danish friends, but it's also really awesome to see my family again and hang out with my American friends, because I missed them all as well! I spent a few days in Vermont with Matt's wonderful family and I'm really happy I got to see them too. And I took some pieces of Denmark back with me for my friends here to try: black licorice, Fisk (the alcohol, not real fish), and most importantly I learned how to make koldskål! It's much easier than I expected (except for scraping out the vanilla bean), so I'm gonna make it frequently. And mini Nilla Wafers work great in place of kammerjunker. My family had mixed opinions on it but I thought it turned out really great. But alas, I'm leaving for a semester at Trinity College in Dublin on the 24th, so I won't be here for long. I don't know much about Ireland and I don't have any friends there yet but I expect it'll be a great semester. Also I have no idea what classes I'm taking. So really, no idea what's going on. Aaaaadventure time!!!
But hey, this blog was all about my summer in Denmark, so it seems I'll be needing a new blog for my semester in Ireland! You can follow it at cdublin.tumblr.com. I won't have any posts on it for a few days but that's the address anyway so look out for it if you're interested!!
Tivoli! and goodbye Copenhagen
We went to Tivoli on Friday and it was awesome! Tivoli is absolutely beautiful, with gardens and fun rides and pretty decorations. We got there in the late afternoon and stayed until around midnight, and we went on 8 rides and ate the leftover cinnamon snails and a flæskesteg sandwich and a delicious chicken bacon cheese pancake thing. My favorite ride was called Vertigo. You sit 4 people in a little airplane on the end of a long arm thing, and it swings around in a vertical circle and the plane spins different directions while it's flying around in circles. It's totally bonkers. I was screaming a lot and Matt was laughing at me and my vision blacked out for a bit while we were in the turbo mode... it was AWESOME (here's a video I found on youtube.. not me though). There was also a concert at night - a Swedish band called Timbuktu. They were good, it was a fun concert from what we saw. It was a really lovely day.
Now we're staying up all night packing, and leaving in a few hours for the airport. It was sad to say goodbye to all my friends but I'll be back to Copenhagen sometime, maybe next summer, and a few people might come to Dublin next semester. The last thing we're doing before we go in the airport is obviously getting all the pastries I can buy with the last of my money!!!
It's been an awesome summer, I gotta pack, flying home soon!
Baking adventures. Apple crumble and cinnamon snails!
Kastellet and more food adventures
Here's a quick update on our last few days in Copenhagen! Suzan cut my hair. Wednesday we went to Kastellet which is an old military fortification with an inner 5-pointed fortress (like a star). It's a nice park to walk around and it was a sunny day. The little mermaid statue is also there so we saw that too... still can't figure out why that statue is such a big deal.
Last night we had a baking lesson from my friend Stephan. He taught us how to make kanelsnegles (recipe link), aka cinnamon snails, a spiraling cinnamon pastry. They were really tasty and I obviously got super excited to the point of jumping up and down when they were almost done. While we were waiting for the snail dough to rise, we also made a quick and delicious 15 minute apple crumble, which I will definitely make again if I ever want an easy dessert. It was something like 1 cup flour to 1 cup sugar to 100g butter, mush them all together, fill a baking pan with apple slices, cover it with the dough, and put it in the oven at 200C until the top is golden and crispy. We ate it with sour cream. Super easy and super delicious!
Today we are going to Tivoli!!! Tomorrow we pack, and Sunday we fly!
Making smoked cheese with Kim!! It's a traditional food on the island of Fyn in Denmark. This is how we did it:
Monday she poured buttermilk into a cheesecloth and let it strain for a day before we got there on Tuesday. Then tie the cheesecloth in a knot. Put soap on the outside of a pot so it's easy to clean the black off. We used hamster sawdust stuff (that stuff you put in a hamster cage) for the smoke because it's really pure. Put a layer of the sawdust in the pot. Put the cheese ball in a strainer that fits into the top of the pot, and put the lid on top of that. We used tinfoil to seal it better.
We had a few attempts at getting the sawdust to smoke because it wasn't being very cooperative. First we put it on the grill and after a while of not smoking we added a lot of kindling to get more flames, but that still didn't get the sawdust smoking. So we gave up on that and added a lot of leaves to the grill to get a lot of smoke, and held the strainer with the cheese ball over the smoke directly from the grill. That didn't work much either. So we finally went inside and used the pot to smoke it on the stove, and that actually worked great! Once the sawdust was smoking we kept the cheese in there for about 10 minutes (maybe a bit more) before opening it and untying the cheesecloth. The cheese was delicious! We ate it on thin rye crackers, accompanied with radishes dipped in sea salt. Mmmmmm!
1 more week in Copenhagen
It's my last week in Copenhagen and there's lots to do! Kim is going to teach me how to make smoked cheese, Matt is here and we're going to Tivoli sometime, picnic in Kastellet, I gotta learn how to cook some more Danish things (especially koldskål), I gotta see a bunch of people before I leave, Suzan might cut my hair, aaand moooore stuff.
Last Tuesday my grandpa died (mom's dad) so I haven't posted in a while because I didn't really feel like writing about it :(Â but he was surrounded by his beautiful and loving family and it was expected beforehand so everyone had time to say their goodbyes. I'll miss him and love him forever.
Some other stuff that happened.... I went to see the new Batman movie with my friends and it was awesome, went swimming at the beach on a beautiful day and enjoyed the rare perfect weather, went to 2 more bbq's and those were fun too and I got to party with everyone together one last time before I leave, and Matt is here for the last week and we're taking the same flight home on August 5.
There's a thunderstorm today soo.... Tivoli and Kastellet will have to wait
Marburg trip
a trip to Marburg, Germany to visit Matt
The Christensen family (same awesome people who are lending me the bike and feed me real meals sometimes) picked me up from Roskilde Festival and I slept at their house on Sunday night. Monday July 9 we piled everything into the camping trailer and started the drive (they were going to Italy and dropping me off in Germany on the way). I used the first driving day to start my Roskilde recovery, sleeping pretty much the whole time. Around dinnertime we ended up at a beautiful camping site in some tiny German town overlooking gorgeous mountains. It was awesome. Tuesday they dropped me off in Marburg, Germany, where Matt is studying German with a study abroad program.
I stayed in Marburg for 9 days. It's a small city in the center of Germany with a castle on top of a hill, some beautiful old churches, lots of pretty old buildings, and a river running through it. I don't speak a word of German and very few people I interacted with there spoke English, but it was only a problem when I couldn't understand anything on restaurant menus. It was a nice relaxing time with Matt, we didn't do a whole lot besides go to the castle and the historic church and he showed me around the city. I found out how out-of-shape I was when I was climbing all the steps to the castle...damn... but we stopped for a cold beer at the top of the hill next to the castle and had a beautiful view of the city. We did a lot of cooking, walking around, and we went out to restaurants to eat German foods (like schnitzel) and for beers with his friends from the program a few times. I found a free pair of rollerblades in a pile of stuff that someone was giving away - sweeeeet! It was a really nice stay in Marburg with Matt :)
I went home on a train that got on a ferry to get to Denmark. A train... was ON a ferry... just drove right on there and drove off again... my mind was blown. But now I'm back in Copenhagen and the past 2 nights I've been to 2 different bbq parties and gotten very little sleep, so now I'm just gonna stay in and eat pasta tonight. Sadly, I discovered that I'm dreadful at rollerblading (especially on cobblestones), so I gave the rollerblades away already haha. But I tried!
Roskilde Festival 2012!
Sorry it's been so long since my last post - I was in Germany with a really bad internet connection and a really great guy! But now I'll finally tell you about Roskilde...
Roskilde Festival was the craziest week ever and pure awesome. I got there on the sunny afternoon of Monday July 2 wearing my kilt and with no idea what to expect of the week, and walked to Camp Braveheart (my camp), our flag standing tall above the endless sea of tents. When my friends had waited in the queue overnight Saturday to run in and get a good campsite when the gates opened to Roskilde the first day, they had done an awesome job. We had a perfect location very close to a kiosk and burger place (good when I couldn't stand to eat canned tuna and crackers for another damn meal), the toilets and sinks (but not so close that it smelled.. they were behind the burger place), the dome where parties happened every night until sunrise, and the entrance to the music scene closest to the Arena stage. When I told people my camp was located in L, they said "so you're in the party zone". Hell yeah I am.
When I arrived at Camp Braveheart, my friends were there playing drinking games and wearing kilts and blue face paint. My tent had been set up 3 tents back from our pavilion, which was a great spot in the middle of a bunch of other tents so it was less likely to be peed or puked on. I had my own tent which I was happy about since it was the only privacy I could get throughout the week. I'm not sure how many people were in our camp..maybe around 20 or 25 or something? I was the only American and everyone else was Danish.
The first 3 days (before the concerts started on Thursday) were pretty much spent hanging out with friends, playing drinking games, dancing, and some other stuff. Every morning we were woken up by the most random and annoying song in the world. When the first 2 people were awake in the camp, they would drag the speakers out and blast Ulilang Pasko which sounds normal at first and then a kid with a terrible voice starts ruining your ears. What better way to wake up in the morning? (a sentiment our neighboring camps did not share!) By the end of the song most people were up and then the more awesome techno bagpipes song kicked the day into gear. Then all day it was music and various drinking games including beer bowling and flunkyball, and everyone was drunk by noon (except me..I was the misfit who took it slower but I still had just as much fun and didn't puke!) We had 2000 stickers with the Camp Braveheart flag on them, so we stuck them on people walking by our camp. It was mostly the guys sticking them on boobs and butts of hot girls walking by, and our camp actually got some recognition and credit from random guys who saw so many hot girls labeled with our camp and thought we were awesome. A policeman walked by our camp once and I ran up behind him and put a sticker on his butt, and thankfully he was in a good mood. It was funny. We also had water balloons and a giant slingshot which we used to annoy other camps one afternoon. I got picked up once on Wednesday (I think) to have a shower and a real meal, which was very nice. At nights, I danced like crazy.
I wandered around to see some of the different themed zones in Roskilde: Poor City, Street City, Dream City, Game City, Green City, and Cinema City. Street City was cool because they had a skatepark set up and they held various workshops and events. I went to a street dance workshop on Monday which was a lot of fun and there was a dance battle afterwards. There was a free movie theater at Cinema City so I saw 2 movies there on Tuesday: Black's Game which was probably awesome but the language was Icelandic and the subtitles were Danish, so I didn't understand the dialogue but I watched the whole movie anyway and understood the general plot. At 1am I took a party break to see Tim & Erics Billion Dollar Movie, which was just.... what the fuck? Weirdest movie I've ever seen. Went back and danced in the dome afterwards. There were also 2 main areas for food and shopping (one in East camps and one in West camps) and when I discovered that carrying a purse at Roskilde was extremely impractical, I went there to buy a sweet fanny pack.
From Thursday to Sunday (July 5-8), there were tons of concerts at 7 different stages. I didn't actually recognize many bands that were playing, so every morning I read the descriptions of the bands that were playing that day and picked some that had interesting descriptions, or tagged along with friends who were going to concerts. On my schedule I wrote short little comments next to the concerts I saw, which I will include here. [Also I'm linking songs from the band names if you click them]
On Thursday the first concert I saw was The Shins, a band I knew and wanted to see. I met up with Nina there, who was in a different camp and I hadn't seen her during the warm-up days. Schedule comment: "Chill". Then I met my Camp Braveheart friends at the Analogik concert, which I had never heard of but I went because my friends were going. It turned out to be a really fun concert. Schedule comment: "fuckin dope". That night I saw Janelle Monáe, who came to University of Rochester last year and I heard she was great so I wanted to go to her concert this time. I was too far away to see very well but I thought she was a great performer with a lot of energy. Schedule comment: "very nice".
Friday it rained and I didn't bring rainboots so I tied trashbags over my sneakers. All the concerts I saw today were bands that I had never heard of, but went to see based on the descriptions in the little Roskilde booklet. I started the day with Les Freres Smith, who had an interesting description as an Afrobeat-funk band from Paris. It was one of my favorite concerts and I was standing in the front row shakin' my groove thang. Schedule comment: "funky fresh ♥". My trashbag rainboots had ripped so I went back to the camp and made improved rain shoes with trashbags and duct tape. Very effective! Then I saw Boubacar Traoré, who was more calm but very nice. Schedule comment: "nice". Probably the most random concert I saw was Danyel Waro, which was native ritualistic music from a tiny island near Madagascar. He was this crazy-looking older man with fluffy white hair and big glasses with awesome energy, and I really enjoyed it. Schedule comment: "awesome tribal dancey". Later at 1am I tagged along with some of my friends to see a Danish rap band called Malk de Koijn, but I didn't like it so I left early. It's fine to not understand the lyrics at other concerts when there was music to dance to as well, but not understanding anything at a rap concert is kind of pointless. Schedule comment: "not my thang ☹". Later around 3-something am I caught the last few songs at the Spleen United concert and it was a lot of fun. Schedule comment: "bananas awesome".
Saturday afternoon we went to see Niklas, pretty much just to hear those 2 songs that everyone knows (even I know them haha. here's the other song). We were standing pretty far away though because there wasn't enough space to actually stand in the tent at the Cosmopol stage, so there wasn't as much energy or dancing in the crowd that far away. Schedule comment: "wish I was closer". Later I saw The Roots, who put on an awesome concert at the main Orange Stage. Schedule comment: "great". Later I heard the end of the M83 concert, which I wanted to go to earlier but I was having fun at the camp (I got challenged to lay down and put a beer can on my stomach and make it hop and land again, soooo I got distracted). But what I heard was good. Schedule comment: "heard a bit, sounded awesome, should have gone earlier". Then Camp Braveheart went to see Bruce Springsteen, which was the main act for the whole festival. We brought our flag along so we wouldn't get lost. I enjoyed it but some of my Danish friends got kinda bored haha. We didn't stay for the whole thing because it was really long. Schedule comment: "fun". Then at 11pm I went to see Bon Iver but I didn't stay long. Schedule comment: "too chill, wasn't really interested". So we went looking for a concert we could dance at and found some dj playing at the Cosmopol stage so we stuck around until this young rapper came on, Dominique Young Unique, and she really sucked so we left. I listened to a bit of the Paul Kalkbrenner concert but didn't stay long because Mew was also playing at the same time. Schedule comment: "good techno trance". Some of Camp Braveheart went to see the Danish band Mew so I went along, and it was way better than I expected. They sang in English and put on a great performance and I had a lot of fun. Schedule comment: "really fantastic". I tried to see the Pretty Lights concert after that but the Apollo stage was really far away and by the time I got there, people were chanting "one more song" but Pretty Lights did not do one more song. Noooo.
Sunday was the last day of concerts and all my friends were leaving pretty early. They didn't want to stay Sunday night because apparently there is chaos and people burning tents and destroying things and it's not a good place to be. Already our camp's pavilion had been destroyed on Saturday night by some random dude throwing a chair on top of it. Some of the camp left Sunday morning and didn't see any concerts that day. I went to see Magtens Korridorer, a Danish rock band, with some of the people who stayed, but then after that I was pretty much the only one left. The concert sounded good but I was so tired I dozed off for a bit there since we were sitting down on the lawn. There were other concerts that I wanted to see on Sunday evening... Amadou & Mariam and Santigold, but I no longer had anywhere to put my bag since the camp was abandoned so to my disappointment I couldn't stay for those concerts. Oh well, back to civilization for a shower and real food!
Roskilde Festival was an awesome experience of just having carefree fun for a whole week. It was a week of FREEEDOOOMMMM!!! at Camp Braveheart. I got closer to my friends and met awesome new friends. I lived in a filthy world full of trash, mud and piss everywhere and that was normal. Everyone was an unhygienic mess and had terrible diets mainly consisting of beer and was happy about it. I saw some really great concerts and found new bands that I like. Everything was awesome and I definitely want to go again next year :)
Here's the link to my photo album of Roskilde Festival!
HELLO I got a ride back to my friends' house for a bit to shower and check emails, so before I return to Camp Braveheart at Roskilde Festival, just wanted to share a few pictures so you know I'm alive and having fun!!! IT'S FUCKING AWESOME.Â
in case you're wondering what's going on in the photos - in the first one my friends snuck up behind me and tied me to a chair, in the second one I'm running cuz I just stuck a Camp Braveheart sticker on the policeman's butt, the third is a water fight, and the fourth is a party at a nearby camp. ROSKILDE!!!
sailing trip to Flakfortet
Matt visits Copenhagen, June 25-30
Monday morning at 6am Matt arrived in Copenhagen. He is spending July studying in Germany, and came to Denmark early to visit me! Yay!! Quick summary since it's late and we're both leaving tomorrow:
It's so great to see Matt again and I'm so happy he's here. Smile smile. We've had an awesome few days exploring Copenhagen and eating so much Danish food. First thing we did when he got here was go to the bakery and get 4 pastries, obviously (teehee). Monday we walked around the city but it started raining and we ended up sitting under an archway in front of some government building and Matt passed out on the bench since he was jetlagged. We met Nina at the restaurant where she works (the Carlton) and had a delicious dinner. Tuesday we met some of my other friends and I cooked a very Danish dinner (with Christian directing me at every step since I'd never made it before) - stegt flæsk med persillesovs! It's like strips of crispy beef and homemade parsley sauce, and potatoes of course. Yum. Both days we also had lots of other Danish food including smørrebrød and koldskål med kammerjunker.
Wednesday we went on a sailing trip with Hugo on MA-RI to Flakfortet which is an artificial island that's an abandoned sea fortress. It was absolutely awesome and the weather was great, and there was enough wind so that we used the sails instead of just using the motor. Flakfortet was really cool to explore since it's all a fortress and you can explore inside of it where it's been abandoned, but the tiny island is so pretty and green. Definitely a worthwhile place to check out if you can get there. We had a bbq picnic and there were two really loud obnoxious swans that wouldn't leave people alone, and I threw a hot dog bun at one of them (cross that off my bucket list!) It was a really great day :)
Thursday we met two of Matt's friends whose Euro-trip happened to correspond to his stay in Denmark. They were super nice and they came at a good time because the weather was really nice too. We spent a few hours exploring the freetown Christiania. Friday I did a lot of last-minute shopping for Roskilde festival and it rained all day and we got pretty soaking wet.
Tomorrow (or today since it's past 3am here..) Matt is leaving for Germany and I'm going to Roskilde festival. Matt will be back in August and is taking the same flight with me back to the US. For Roskilde, I have my own tent, 2 sleeping bags, a sleeping pad, some food (canned tuna, crackers, bread, carrots, corn flakes, chocolate things, peanuts), and some other stuff.. My camp is called Camp Braveheart and everyone wears kilts and it's totally crazy. I don't even know what to say.... just look around the Roskilde website. The music ends the night of July 8 and then I'm catching a ride to Germany on July 9, so I won't be coming back to the apartment in between. I'm probably going to Nuremberg first before I visit Matt in Marburg since he'll be on a class trip until the 14th... so I'm probably just gonna couchsurf in Nuremberg for a few days, cuz why the hell not.. If you need to contact me over the next ten days you can send me an email but I probably won't get it for a while since I have no idea if I'll be staying at the camp for the full week or if I'm gonna need a break (and a shower). I might be able to get internet at some point if I go back to Anette's house for a shower. It will certainly be a crazy week, perhaps the craziest week of my life
Sankt Hans aften i Nyhavn! Sankt Hans celebrates the summer solstice and there is a tradition of lighting bonfires and burning a witch made of straw and cloth. These bonfires happen all over the country but I went to the one in Nyhavn (surprise!) I watched the bonfire and witch-burning from Svalen, then despite a few drinks (including elderflower cider, and red berries & chili cider,) I got cold and put on a very stylish fishing suit.
Budapest day 5 and goodbye (June 18-19)
My last full day in Budapest, I started off by going to the grand market hall. I was a little disappointed because it was much more touristy than I'd expected. Yeah there were a lot of food stalls, but there were really only like 6 different types and then so many of each type so you only needed to walk down 1 or 2 rows. But it was nice to walk around there for a while and I ate a bunch of tasty Hungarian food. Also on the way to the metro station I had lángos, which is fried dough with cream, cheese, and garlic. Sooo yummy.
Parliament was the only place on my list that I hadn't seen yet, so I headed over there. Well okay, I'd seen it from afar but I wanted to see it up close! It was absolutely beautiful and I spent probably an unusual amount of time walking around outside it and sitting down for a while at a few different places along the way to look at it from different angles. Some of the guards were staring at me after a while but I didn't care haha. I just liked to sit and stare and marvel at the architectural beauty. Like many of the other old buildings in Budapest, it was really amazing.
It was my last day in Hungary and I'd succeeded in doing most things I wanted to do, but there was one last thing to accomplish: climb the statue and rub the horse balls for good luck. It was still too light out so I wandered around some more and killed some time by sitting in the shade beside the Basilica and resting there for a while, watching the people and admiring the beautiful old building. I went back to that pool place to stick my feet in the water and meet up with Max. Up to this point it had been a fairly lazy and relaxing day just walking and sitting and looking at stuff, but it was time for an adventure. We grabbed a couple beers and sat by the river waiting for it to get dark enough, then we crossed to the Buda side and went on a hunt for that statue of the hero riding a horse that I'd learned about on the walking tour (I didn't remember exactly where it was but I had a general idea). When we finally found it, we climbed the statue and rubbed those shiny horse testicles for good luck! Mission accomplished.
When I woke up the next morning I had to get going pretty quickly since my flight was at 12:15, and my host Katelin gave me easy directions to the airport and even gave me some transportation tickets for the metro since I'd run out. She was really nice. I made it to the airport and through security with no problems. I don't like waiting in those long lines to board flights since I'm guaranteed a seat anyway, so while the boarding line wasn't getting any shorter I went and spent the last of my Hungarian forints on a coffee and a snack for the flight. WizzAir has open seating so I figured I wouldn't get a good seat since I was one of the last people to board, but I actually got an awesome seat. I entered the plane from the back and in the back row of 3 seats there was only 1 guy but then he moved to another row when his seat was needed to strap in a guitar, so I sat in the middle seat and had the whole row to myself. I just fell asleep leaning against the padded guitar case. It was quite a pleasant flight :)
I arrived in Malmö, took the train to Copenhagen and headed back home after an amazing vacation in beautiful Budapest. I really loved the city, the people I met, the food, the hot weather, and everything I got to do. I went to Budapest with no idea what to expect since it was just the cheapest flight and I didn't really do any research first, just got up and flew away to an unknown place. But it turned out to be one of the most amazing weeks of my life, and one of my favorite cities in the world (second to Copenhagen of course!) I learned a lot and met a lot of cool people from all over the world. It was a great trip and I will definitely return to Budapest someday.