contrasting temperatures crunch! chewy leathery dehydrated salted brined juicy
It was unseasonal. seventy degrees fahrenheit, to be precise. We spent three days packing the truck and trailer. Berta the big red truck, my ’93 dodge cummins. Lollipop red with all her dings and farts. Swear there wasn’t room for a spare toothpick back there. We set off down the driveway with John waving in the rear and the rest of our lives in the front.
We went to Middle Earth. It was my first time. Frodo and Gandalf and the Lady of Lothlorian shepherded us across the country. Dipping and dodging and cruising at 60 miles per hour, we made our way, Berta shrieking like a tank the whole time, stopping for hamburgers at every opportunity, we found our way from the precipice to our new home.
Bethel. The promised land. The source. The birthplace of the National Museum of Natural History. (seriously, look it up). The house of God. For us, God is the natural world. Ecology. God is Place. Home. Comfort. Love. Connection. A place where we can build and create vision and execute vision. Where we can build a life and a family and invite anyone everyone to join us in nourishing ourselves. To vitalize the land, to give it ourselves and accept the gift of it’s bounty. To our new home in Bethel, VT we drove 8 days across the country in Berta the big red truck.
We arrived amidst the biggest storm of the year. A fresh 18” on top of 3'. I didn’t anticipate the precipitous incline at the end of the driveway, slipped out and slipped backwards and embedded Berta the big red truck and our 15’ trailer into the snowbank on the side of the driveway. At which point we tried everything under the damn sun to liberate the vehicle so we could drive it the last 27’ to our front door. Twenty seven fucking feet. After driving three thousand two hundred and ninety five miles without a hitch. No problems. Not even diarrhea. No burglars. Not even thumbtacks and oil slicks. Until now. Twenty seven feet from the front door.
So we popped the champagne and started unloading the trailer. Carrying, armload by slippery icy armload, all our belongings, from the trailer, twenty seven feet to the front door.
It was getting dark and Mom saved the day. There’s no cell service here, and the landline was discontinued. She called 911 on the remaining phone and hooked up with AAA from there. I was devastated. The whole state of VT was going to know what a charlatan I was. Know nothing, flatlander sack of shit doesn’t deserve to be here. The steam blown off from the long trip did not smell too pleasant ya dig?
The AAA man could have been the most kind of all the humans. He backed the truck down the driveway for me then showed me how to put my tire chains on, on account of I’ve never done it before. Whereupon the AAA man saved the day.
Then we moved in and settled in and figured out how to get along with 4’ of snow on the ground. We borrowed snowshoes and bought firewood and bought internet and set up a card table in the living room next to the stove so I could work my softhands job on the laptop.
Damn near the day after we moved in, we ran into Carl at town meeting. Two days later he emailed out of the wild blue and asked if we had space for horses and I said yes, because we do. Later that week, he brought over Tom and Mike, who we boarded for about 6 weeks, he figured, until his pastures opened up and he had more space for them at his farm, just over the hill.
We had Tom and Mike until two weeks ago, just about the whole year. Which ended up being an unspeakable blessing, to get to know them individually, and to become acquainted with caring for horses and relating to horses. They gave us occasion to set up paddocks and rotate them around our pastures. To get to know our grass and our water. To begin to consider our relationship to our barn and barnyard. There are a great many dynamics on a new farm that I didn’t even know existed until Tom and Mike came into our lives.
We made maple syrup. Trekked out to the hardware store to get our supplies and trekked out to the woods and tapped five whole trees. Brought our friends from Maine out to show off all our good and hard work and they graciously, gently informed us that those were indeed not Sugar Maple trees, the kind from whose sap you make maple syrup, but rather Ash trees, from whose sap nobody makes anything.
I built an arch out of cinder blocks and bricks I found in the barn. Then I rebuilt it because it didn’t work. Then I rebuilt that one because it didn’t work either. Then I rebuilt that one because that one didn’t work either. Then we made one gallon of syrup in our two amazon.com hotel pans, with all the bugs and twigs and shrapnel of the mindmeltingly glorious piedmont spring.
It was the most delicious fruit.
Cecil plowed the parking area for us, then once the green came he plowed our first three plots. We revealed the glory beneath for the first time in at least 50 years. Could be 100. It’s entirely feasible that our flatland has never been cultivated. The Bundys were dairy folk. We don’t know much about them. Cecil grew up milking their cows and sugaring in the woods. Our driveway is Bundy Rd. And once ol’ Mr. Bundy broke his leg haying in the meadow across the stream. Otherwise, they dairied until the bulk tank rule when they got pushed out.
We found ourselves some hogs. Two of them. Cathy and Cucumber. Cathy because she’d never shut up when you came around and Cucumber because she played it cool. American Guinea Hogs. Good company. Veritable fat factories I tellya. Never encountered a lazier pig, to be right honest - they’d nap and then nap and then have breakfast and then nap for the rest of the day until dinner then go to bed. Made right nice bacon though let me tell you.
We grew food. Vegetables. The usual suspects. Tomatoes and peppers in the hoophouses we brought from Washougal. All manner of leaves and storage crops down below - spuds and squashes and cukes and onions. Flowers were new. Rita grew flowers for the wedding.
We finally had occasion to legitimize in the eyes of the taxman our commitment to each other. Which, to be quite honest with you, was made on the very first day Rita came to my doorstep. No taxman necessary. Which, to be honest, is another story for another day, so stay tuned.
Brandon came and slaughtered Cathy and Cucumber with me. I hesitate to describe the significance of his presence, for it’s magnitude. It was with Brandon that I became myself. From Washington he traveled, without his family, who stayed to take care of their promised land. We killed Cucumber first. Together. Just the two of us. Just like old times. I shot her between the eyes and up two inches, with my .22 magnum rifle, still with it’s new gun smell. We scalded and scraped her, just like old times, waltzing and scraping until our arms fell off. With great labor and purpose, we worked side by side.
Cucumber was prepared for the spit. Cathy, for the salt. Brandon roasted Cucumber for the day before the wedding fiesta. Which is Spanish for party. Cathy, we cured and hung to dry age the majority of her flesh and fat.
We were married here in our promised land. We said we wouldn’t. Promised each other we’d wait. We knew it’d happen. She waited for me to ask. When I did, last year, on CSA harvest morning, in between the kale and the mustards, she said yes. We cried. We jumped and laid in the grass even though we had a mountain to harvest and deliver. Then we knew we had to find our place. We couldn’t say yes to the taxman until we were in our place. So we waited.
But now we had arrived, so we started planning. Designed invites with a broad axe and broad fork and fancy lettering and sent them out and told ourselves we’d do everything. I’d make the plates and Rita’d grow all the food and flowers. I’d make the tables and we’d raise the pigs. We’d invite our friends to officiate and cook and be all around badasses. Then we found out how crummy it is to organize and implement a wedding. Our friends, miraculous bundles of skills and potential as they are, came through and made it happen. They lifted us and floated us and trussed our shortcomings and made our official union possible. Because without them we are nothing. And how true to discover how dependent upon your loved ones you are but on the eve of your marriage, which, as we know deeply is not a wedding of two individuals to each other, but of two individuals to a their community. To their Place. To their ambitions and intentions.
On the hillside overlooking the hills and pastures, overlooking the barn and the pond and the house, overlooking the future fruit of our labor, we were wed. Rita Champion and Andrew Plotsky and their family and their friends and their land. Beneath an arbor I had felled, hewn and joined with nothing but axes and a crosscut saw, in front of the eyes of those we love, atop the land that we have committed to, in perpetuity, we are wed.
Holy smokes the comedown. We had 20 people in the house and 30 people camping on the land. All of a sudden we were Andrew and Rita and the rest of our lives. It was quiet and lovely and daunting and we moved on and focused on being blinded by the magnificent glory of the fall.
The leaves. The breeze. The crisp. The apples. Holy marbles the apples.
We purchased firewood because my ambitions of cutting and splitting paled in comparison to the reality of the real world. But I remain optimistic. Always. Until the ol’ world proves otherwise, we must remain optimistic. This winter, I’ll cut for next year. Mark my words. And if I don’t, then next year.
I Discovered books on tape and I haven’t looked back. The Amazing Adventures of Cavalier and Clay kicked it off and ignited a desire to know about my Jewish heritage like nothing before. Went on a bender of WWII and jewish immigrant stories. Became morose. Gained a greater empathy for the state of the world. Kept stacking wood.
Finally got the wood stacked, just in time for the warmest damn fall on record. Or something like it. Just in time to resume work on the greenhouse I started building with my Dad in the spring. He and Paul came out for a weekend and we crunched and pushed and hammered and screwed and got up the frame and the roof. Ever since I’ve been installing windows and sawing siding and nailing siding and trimming out the inside. Finally got the exterior signed sealed delivered just in time for our first five inches of snow.
Whereupon I discovered, while moving snow out of the parking area with the tractor we purchased this year with borrowed money from the taxman, that nothing comes free. And that is the greatest joy. That is the source. Here on this land we have colonized with nothing other than the privilege of federally recognizable capital, we are now endowed with well more than a lifetime’s worth of labor. By which I mean purpose.
Freedom, perhaps, is the privilege of requiring of yourself labor everyday. Not necessarily to provide all that you consume, because the 60’s proved that to be an unsustainable rhetoric. We don’t desire independence from all people and inputs, we desire interdependence of intelligent and thoughtful neighbors, community members, and regional entrepreneurs. We do not desire a wholesale solution, we desire responsibility. We desire challenge. We desire camaraderie in our struggle to make this Place a better place.
One could say that much has transpired this year, relative to the Western calendar. One might say that we arranged and carried out, with the help of so many wonderful humans, a wedding this year. That we moved across the country, to a place we’ve never been and never lived. One might consider all that we accomplished on this new land of ours worthy of note, of praise. I can’t help but agree, but only a little. I can’t help but feel like, against the context of the lifetimes of potential and desire I feel, relative to this Place, that this year was but a starting point. A touch of the index finger ever so gently to the lips, sufficiently, but not superfluously, moistening. The lapping, sinusoidal waves of candlelight flowing over the corner of the page, sitting regally atop the tome, waiting to be turned.














