foundunbound

love of travel in a dreamscape // a blog to document my years' adventures

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#tbt Big Bend National Park, February I never got around to posting about my trip to Big Bend, but digging through photos on my old phone, I found a few I liked and decided it was time to share.

After Sean and I returned from Peru, we took a little roadtrip south and landed in Big Bend, which lies on the Mexico-Texas border. We arrived at dusk, the sun setting behind a peak in the Chisos Basin. The stars that night were mezmerizing, and had I been a little warmer and better rested, I would have stared all night. This was true the following nights, only the temperatures continued to drop, so low we had to retreat to the car the last two nights.

The days, however, were warm and equally stunning. We visited hot springs and got cornered by a wildfire; hiked through desert, forest and mountain; and made our way to the highest point in Texas, Emory Peak.

In all, BBNP was more than I thought it would be, surpassing my expectations in beauty and challenge.

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Lima, Last Day in Peru

Monetarily speaking, we went out with a bang. We spent our last day in the notoriously expensive (and beautiful) district of Miraflores. We did it right, though. We rented bikes for the day, giving us a breezy and easy look at the coastal parks, Huaca Pucllana and a bit of San Isidro.

That evening, we watched the sunset over a couple Chilcanos and ceviche at a beautifully beachy restaurant. Back at the hostel, we solemnly packed our bags, preparing for the trip home.

Peru has given us many life-changing experiences, many new outlooks on living. This quick month has inspired new travel and interests. It's surprised me; I've enjoyed it more than I expected.

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Lima, Day Four

We returned to the Barranco area on Sunday, ready with our beach gear. We could already see before leaving that it was going to be a cloudy day, but we’re not exactly rich with time, so we went anyway. We chose Playa Barranco, a popular local hangout.

It was totally packed when we finally got there, but we found a couple chairs not too far back. Our view was still pretty obstructed by people, so we walked to the water, our feet into the cold Pacific. While locals walked out up to their waist and rolled around in the sand, we hung back for the view and had a beer.

The air got a little too cold by sunset, so we walked up the Bajada and found a craft beer house. We tried six brews and had an awesome purple corn pizza before checking out the plaza’s excitement that night. Break dancers, ballroom dancers, vendors and families filled the plaza, giving us a great view for the evening.

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Lima, Day Three Saturday we found ourselves at the southern end of Lima, in the Bohemian district of Barranco. We almost could have stepped into Tulsa; this place is so unlike what we've been seeing in Peru. Clean streets, modern architecture, art installations. It's obviously an upscale side of Lima. We started at the Museum of Contemporary Art (MAC), which is hosting a beautiful exhibition right now that features giant pieces of stone. We walked from there to Dédalo, an indoor artisanal market. Housed in an old mansion, these pieces were too pricey for a backpacking budget, but cool to see. We hung out in the courtyard cafe for a bit before heading to the Bajada de Baños, a road that leads to the beaches. We weren't going to the beach yet, but the area is a nice one to visit. We watched the sunset with a Chilcano at El Mirador, a high point with a great view.

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Lima, Day Two Friday started with a bang, with a cooking class, where we learned to make a Lima favorite, ceviche. We visited the market together to buy fresh ingredients, and we worked together at the chef's instruction. Best ceviche I've had! The afternoon was spent sightseeing. El Centro is one of the larger districts in Lima, so we returned to it on our second day. Our first stops were two museums, the Museum of Congress and Inquisition and the Convent of San Fransisco. The first gave us a history on methods of torture used by the government, and the second awarded us with a tour of the catacombs, which contains the bones of at least 25,000 people. A rather creepy start, we walked on to the Plaza de Armas. We spent only a second here, checking out the massive yellow buildings and impressive fountain. We then used a popular pedestrian street to get to a old bar called Queirolo, where we tried another, less impressive pisco sour.

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Lima, Day One A quick flight out of Iquitos got us to the Peruvian capital mid-afternoon. With so much time in the day, we got started with our sightseeing right away. We're lucky to be staying by a cool city park, el Parque del Exposicion. We grabbed some popcorn and saw what the park had to offer, cool architecture and trees. We later gravitated to the heart of El Centro, to La Plaza San Martin. Beautiful white buildings surround the square, and large groups gather in the flower-flooded center. We visited the Gran Hotel Bolivar, home of the pisco sour (Peru's national drink). It was the smoothest pisco I've had yet. On the way back to the hostel, we stopped for some street food. The best smells came from a stand selling anticuchos. That grilled cow heart, to my surprise. Even more surprising is how amazing it tastes.

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Iquitos, Day Two: Jungle Fever As Iquitos is a popular Peruvian gateway to the Amazon jungle, it would have been a shame to leave without even a taste. So, Sean and I forgot our budget and splurged on a one-day jungle tour. Our first stop was the Bora tribe, with whom we were able to dance and interact. They painted black lines on our faces on our arrival. We didn't get to spend a lot of time with them, unfortunately, but I'm fascinated by their clothing, which they make from tree bark. Our next move was a short hike to an Amazon tributary, where we spent time trying and failing to fish for piranhas. We walked back and had an amazing lunch of Amazon catfish, rice, beans, pineapple salsa and avocado salad. From here we walked to Monkey Island, a rescue sanctuary in the jungle. As soon as we arrived, monkeys were all over us taking bananas and going through our bags. One actually tried to feed me a banana, and another wouldn't stop licking Sean. We certainly made friends, each with a monkey wrapped around our necks the whole time (of course this would be the place my camera would die; photos from my Canon to come). After stopping to catch a glimpse at caimans and alligators, we made a long journey back to port. A storm was beginning to brew on the river, making for a beautiful last sunset on the Amazon.

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Iquitos, Day One We arrived in Iquitos on our third afternoon of sailing. Crossing into the River, there's a visible line where the Amazon stops and this river begins (the River is so dark in color). Like everyone else in Iquitos, we grabbed a mototaxi and joined the caravan of mototaxis navigating the city streets. Iquitos is a cool mix of slum and beautiful colonial architecture, colorful and rundown in one. We find a hostel and take our first showers in six days (surpassing my Yellowstone/Glacier five-day record). That evening, we walked down the main street, found something to eat and enjoyed some people-watching. Walking around the hostel, I found loads of vendors selling coconuts. I ate two. We settled in that evening with a cold Cristal (shitty Peruvian beer, favored in the area) and relaxed. I passed out quickly despite the energy of the city; I'll blame three nights in a hammock for that!

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Destination: Iquitos, Three Nights on a Cargo Boat You'd really be surprised how quickly 65 hours can pass when spent in a hammock on a cargo boat. After some exploring in Yurimaguas, Sean and I settled on the Bruno the evening of the 16th. It left port the next morning, and we began our adventure down the River. Honestly, nothing too exciting happens throughout the day. You relax, read, nap, listen to music and play cards. You see the occasional village, and we were lucky to spot four of the river dolphins. The food was okay and the bathrooms were atrocious, but the people you meet are interesting and it's always so neat to interact with the locals. My favorite parts of all were sunrises and sunsets. Both are beautiful and peaceful times of day. Birds call and the nature is calm. At night, we spotted storms, and during one night, we got caught in one. Hammocks blew all over the place, rain soaked our bags and the sights and sounds of lightning and thunder made for a great show.

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Wifi in Peru killing me! Can't book, can't research, can't post! Already leaving in a couple days (mega sad face). Photos coming soon!

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Forty Hours on a Bus For a handful of travelers backpacking through Peru, Iquitos is a popular destination. The largest remote city in the world (with 500,000 people), it's only accessible via air or river. Sean and I choose river, and it's quite a journey. To catch the boat, you have to make your way to a small port town called Yurimaguas, which is no where near Nasca. We took a lovely six-hour bus ride to Lima, but from there I don't think lovely is an appropriately encompassing word. Our second bus was no less than 29 hours long, speeding and winding its way around a curvy Peruvian landscape. We followed the Peruvian coast for a bit and ended up around rolling hills. I spotted a pack of llamas and made friends with a Peruvian mother and son sitting next to me. We arrived to Tarapoto in the evening and asked a mototaxi to take us to a hostel I heard of online. Practically just a closet, we were quick to leave the next morning to catch a combi to Yurimauguas. Combis are an interesting experience. You just pile in if there's room and off you go. Pay ten soles to the man with the clipboard. We arrive an hour and a half late, which is just as well, because the cargo boat is delayed until the next day. We pay for our spot and hang out hammocks, ready to settle in for a multiday river boat ride.

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Nasca, Day Two For our last day in Nasca, we did a dune buggy as sand boarding tour. It seems to be the best way of experiencing the outskirts of Nasca, where so much of the history lies. We left the city around 3, and we were able to catch the sunset over the dunes after a few hours of exploring. We first visited the Cementerio de Chauchilla, where a community of pre-Incan people were buried. Though grave robbers collected most of the remains, a few bones, skulls and pieces of pottery were left behind. After seeing this, the driver took us for a wild ride down some sand dunes, and we chose a good dune for some sand boarding. Nasca is like an amusement park. Activities that resemble roller coasters, the smell of gasoline, vendors selling yummy fried treats, and an abundance of balloons and kids.

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Nasca, Day One After 20 hours of bus travel from Puno, we finally arrived to Nasca Tuesday morning. It's not at all what I expected, and in a very good way. The walk from the bus station to our hostel was very nice, with flower pots on the street and clean squares painted white and yellow. It reminds me of a small town's downtown area, with old buildings kept up nice and old people walking home from their morning coffee. We spent our first couple hours in a cute cafe, drinking juice and coffee. At 11:30, we were picked up and taken to the airport, where we boarded a plane overlooking the Nasca lines. Now, I've never been a huge fanatic of this particular phenomenon, but it was the coolest getting to see them. My first ride on a small propellor plane, we saw twelve of the figures, including the monkey, hummingbird, astronaut and condor. They're so massive and mysterious; It encourages me to do more research on them. We left the airport with a certificate and a stamp in our passport. That evening, we strolled through the main streets, enjoyed some street food sandwiches and watched the excitement in the main square, where kids drove plastic cars, people ate popcorn and vendors sold cheap toys. It's a lovely city.

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Puno, Day Two Our last day in Puno was definitely the star. We woke early to catch a tour of the floating islands of Uros and the natural island of Taquille, both which lie on Lake Titicaca. Though both were rather touristy, and despite a disappointing guide, I couldn't help but enjoy the beautiful scenery. The sky was clear and sun was bright, making all the colors of these islands bold and warm. We got a chance to learn about the everyday lives of the island people and about the creation of the floating islands. We had an awesome lunch at a family's home and got a chance to hike a bit as well.

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Puno, Arrival & First Day After a 7.5 hour bus ride from Cusco, Sean and I arrived to Puno mid afternoon. Puno sits on the Peruvian coast of Lake Titicaca, the world's highest navigable lake. It was immediately obvious this would be our only true reason for coming; Puno is a hole. Charming at times, this city is characterized mainly by broken down buildings, graffiti and boarded up shops. Fatigued from the bus, we didn't really get started until the next day. We walked up and down the nearby streets and strolled through the market. With skinned cow heads and dirty mannequins, we made a quick exit. To Puno's credit, we did find this delicious vegan restaurant, whose owners are the happiest people I've met in Peru. The Pallatin Saltado I ate was the best meal I've eaten here. Later we found a courtyard table at La Casa deal Corregidor, where we played games and drank coffees and beer. That evening we met a couple guys at the hostel, played pool and Cribbage, and talked travel. Puno may not have much for nightlife, but it was a good day all the same.

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Machu Picchu

By this time, our journey to Machu Picchu had already been a trying and lengthy one. We woke early on our fifth day, making it to first checkpoint by 4:40 a.m. We stood waiting at a large metal fence guarding a bridge that would take us to the mountain. At 5, we pour in. It was an hour-long uphill climb. Tough, but by now, we’ve had worse. In the rain, we make it to the entrance of Machu Picchu.

The first sight is breathtaking: a lost civilization before us. We sit on a grassy area, llamas surrounding us, and we wait for the sunrise. Fog lingers below us, and the sun slowly rises from behind the mountains. It brings tears to my eyes.

We spend the next six hours learning about the Incan civilization, exploring the ruins and soaking up our well-earned prize.

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Salkantay, The Days Until Machu Picchu

The decision to hike the Salkantay trail was a rather quick one. We booked it only a week before we left. Only knowing that it would get us to Machu Picchu in a unique way, that is was high in altitude and that it was, well, a hike, we didn’t give much thought to the fact neither of us had actually completed a trek before. Hikes, sure. Difficult hikes, yes. But nothing compares to five days of hiking and camping in Peru’s highlands. It was physically and mentally one of the hardest things I’ve done, but it was also more rewarding than any outdoor adventure I’ve ever embarked on.

The hike started in Mollepata, 2,900 meters up. Immediately an uphill journey, this was my first glimpse into the rough days ahead. We made it to Soraypampa (3,900 meters) that afternoon, took a break, and went up further to a mountain-encircled lagoon with freezing waters an a beautiful view. But really, every part of this trip offered a beautiful view.

Our wake up call the next day was at 5 a.m. The hard day had come. We reached the highest peak this day, at 4,650 meters. Though some made the climb on foot, others (including me) opted to horseback ride to the top. After being thrown off at the beginning, it was a challenging yet smooth ride up. At the top, our guide lead a ceremony, an offering to Pachamama. In Andean belief, Pachamama is the earth, space and time. We light cigarettes, drink rum and give coca leaves to her honor.

The third day wasn’t as challenging. We began our descent the day before, and we start to enter the jungle of Peru. That evening, we visit the hot springs in Santa Teresa, where we are all eaten alive by sand flies. We forget our worries next to a bonfire that evening.

The fourth day, we make it to Aguascalientes. Finally, we have arrived to the gate of Machu Picchu. We won’t see the sacred site for another day, but we reward ourselves with drinks at dinner and ice cream before bed.

After these four days, I am sore all over. My shoulders, legs, feet, even my armpits! My feet are swollen from blisters and bug bites. My skin is burnt. But I can’t remember I better feeling of accomplishment than at the end of those days.