Andrias japonicus makes kimono

[hanzakii]

placeholder first post

Hi. Documenting my wasai/kimono journey and resources. It's mostly for myself, so it's sloppily written.

よ。和裁と和服日誌です。色々の読んだものを集まった。自分のための日誌からバラバラに書いた。

Profile picture: 大山椒魚 by Matsuoka Ayumu

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完成です

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After 4 sessions the collar has been attached!

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Make hanhaba obi from noren

麻の「のれん」で半巾帯を作ってみた

麻の暖簾で半巾帯を作ってみた

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Using "garon lace" to prevent hems and sleeves from scuffing

十日町紬に擦り切れ汚れ防止に「ガロンテープ」オシャレ着物人の工夫のひとワザ

着物の裾擦り切れ防止はガロンテープで補強する。オシャレな着物人はレーステープでひとワザ

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Yukata sewing progress log

Finished the 後身頃 and 前身頃 of my second yukata. It’s so easy to work with since the pattern is like a grid. A sewing machine makes everything so much faster! There is a learning curve and I broke a needle because I ended up with some jammed thread, but it’s fine. However, the back is too wide, somehow the 後ろ巾 ended up 1-1.5cm bigger than it should have been, so I’ll need to sew an extra back seam before continuing on to the okumi. If I’m feeling lazy maybe I’ll just work on the sleeves.

After a lot of thinking about sizes, I finished saidanzu 裁断図 for the third yukata in about two hours, this time for my friend who has a difficult to find size requirement. This time I didn’t do pattern matching since the pattern is big and difficult to line up, but if we are lucky maybe the left side or collar can match. I haven’t cut the collar out yet from the original 5.5x1.1m cloth, I’ll check it later so maybe i can make that part match.

[hanzakii]

Menslike kimono coordination

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Going to turn this samurai haori into a nagoya obi

i thought of making it into another haori, but i already have two haori i really like.

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浴衣仕立て　Tailoring a yukata: assorted links

Best guides I have found in English (not video)

https://kimono-bunka.ynu.ac.jp/nuikata_en/menu01.html

https://makingandcandor.com/2022/12/31/another-tailoring-cutting-an-authentic-japanese-kimono/

Video: Billy Matsunaga (link to follow, search sewing)

https://kimono-strategy.com/?p=5263 https://fair-manage.xsrv.jp/how-to-make-a-womens-yukata/ https://buluskong.com/archives/5275 https://story.nakagawa-masashichi.jp/27491 https://kimonoshitatesousou.com/?cat=329 https://kimonoshitatesousou.com/?p=3042 men's yukata guide https://kimonoshitatesousou.com/?p=2593 women's yukata size guide https://nukumore.jp/articles/2587?2587&page=2#outline27　pattern matching, start to finish guide

https://yousai.net/how_to/wahuku/yukata Another full guide start to finish

http://wkimono.tokyo/wp/?p=8018　fabrics that are ok or not

https://kimono-strategy.com/?p=5263 good tailoring guide

https://kimonoshitatesousou.com/?p=5790 Yukata all about

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Kimono-obi pairing chart

must note that rules are changing and ever-flexible, in particular around yukata + nagoya obi

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Men's yukata

初めての浴衣が出来上がった。アフリカンワックス木綿の生地から仕立てした。

Finished sewing my men's yukata from African wax cotton :) I bought it (for just 1000 jpy in equivalent currency!!!!) from a store that sells fabric from Ghana, Côte d'Ivoire, Guinea, and Senegal, so it could be from one of those places.

This was my first garment sewing project since Home Economics in grade school and I made a lot of mistakes, but I learned a lot. There are still many mistakes hiding in the fabric, but that's okay for now, because done is better than perfect. I'll do better next time... or get a teacher. 和裁師探しています〜。

Worked on it from late February and finished it at the end of May, so that's about 3 months. I had many things going on, and I was definitely not sewing every night, but some days it felt like it.

[hanzakii]

Obiage, han-eri size and material 帯揚げと半衿サイズと生地

Obiage 帯揚げ

Commercially available ones are 170cm x 28 cm But these an be made smaller at 144 x 24 cm. Sew with three folds to prevent fraying on all sides.

Summer: Cotton/linen, Winter: silk/wool

Source: https://kimono-story.com/289.html

Han-eri 半衿

112 x 16 cm

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Increasing yuki length of nagajuban/kimono

長襦袢、着物裄直し https://www.fukashishu.net/yukinaoshi/

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和裁：帯仕立て (Wasai: Tailoring obi)

Making a list of resources for my projects involving obi tailoring

八寸名古屋帯 https://ameblo.jp/nonno4041/entry-12551770054.html https://kimonoshitatesousou.com/?p=7185 ; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03p8k27ckN4 Billy Matsunaga https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQv1_TwrSgQ

Obi with Obishin (video): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OHxVHUa67OI

半幅帯 (video): (Billy Matsunaga) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CF6eKGaC5Ik (William Morris) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1Qiv8ab0og

Custom fabric Nagoya obi with obishin (unlisted video)

帯芯: https://shitate.org/obishin-type/ , https://shitate.org/dp/obishin-sale/

Nagoya obi types: https://shitate.org/matsuba-nagoya/

Tips on making nagoya obi with a sewing machine: https://shitate.org/mishin-tenui/

Nagoya obi pattern placement size guide: https://shitate.org/obi-size/ (Better size guide available in unlisted v.)

Nagoya obi fabric cutting guide: https://shitate.org/dp/free-obi/