Genius behind the Genesis
Who is the genius behind the genesis of fashion week? This essay will explore all four fashion capitals which are; New York, Milan, Paris, and London. There are many people who have influences this ‘trend’ which fashion week has become, and they are; Eleanor Lambert, Charles Frederick, and Ehrich Brothers. These people are only a few of the many that are the genius behind the genesis of fashion week.
History of How Fashion Week Started:
The beginning of showcasing fashion was done with Charles Frederick in the 1800s. He was known as the father of Haute Couture (Charles Frederick Worth, 2018). Frederick introduced the use of life models rather than using mannequins to display his work. Paul Poiret worked with Frederick and in 1903 started to design his own clothing. Later on, in Poiret career he was the first to use Russian ballet to create theatrical design which influenced his way of showcasing his work (Paul Poiret, 2013). Poiret’s most legendary event was called “Thousand and Second Night”, he transformed spaces and made catwalks that are interactive (Idacavage, 2018). Another designer called Lucile, also known as Lady Duff-Gordon, was known using her clientele to organise social events (Evans, 2001).
In the 19th century the rise of fashion and capitalism was increasing. A department stop called Ehrich Brothers in New York City put on the first fashion show in America (Fashion Week Online®, 2018). Many European couture houses had fixed dates for two fashion shows or events a year put into a calendar in 1918, this is what is known as “fashion week” today (Idacavage, 2018). By the flapper period (1920s) shows had become a ‘must-see’ and many department stores and hotels held them. After the 20s fashion declined because of The Great Depression. It wasn't till the 1940s when fashion became popular again, especially in America. Fashion week had a different name which was “Press Week” (All Art Schools, 2018). On the other hand, in Europe, a large number of fashion salons were forced to shutdown, due to World War Two.
Eleanor Lambert was a fashion publicist in 1943 and had the idea of grouping all fashion designer shows together at a particular time, but no place has been found to hold them (Fashion Week Online®, 2018). In the 60s the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) was founded by Eleanor Lambert, which allowed her to bring designers together and put them in the spotlight for US fashion (Cfda.com, 2018). When the 70s began, the Council of Fashion Designers of America became the CFDA Foundation, and at the same time, Oscar de la Renta was elected president of the CFDA (Cfda.com, 2018). In the mid 80s CFDA became an office and hired it’s first staff member. It was not until 1990 that the CFDA started to use “7th on Sixth” as the fashion week home. This was decided by Fern Mallis, at the time she was the Executive Director of CFDA and founded the event management company called “7th on Sixth” (Fashion Week Online®, 2018). In 1993 New York fashion week moves to Bryant Park due to the demand to attend the shows. Ralph Lauren and the CFDA did a collar ration to raise money for breast cancer in 1994. A scholarship program was created in 1996 for the CFDA. It was not till 2003 when the CFDA Founder, Eleanor Lambert, died at age 100. In 2010 New York fashion week moves agin to the Lincoln Centre as the ‘hype’ of going to the shows become more popular with the advances of technology. The fashion calendar was not acquired until 2014 (Cfda.com, 2018). It wasn’t till 2015 when the CFDA launched New York Fashion Week Menswear.
Paris fashion week (PFW) started in 1945 and had two fashion weeks; one was haute couture shows, the other was prêt-à-porter (ready-to-wear) shows. This was very different to the other fashion capitals. Haute couture shows were organised by the Chamber Syndicale de la Haute Couture and could present both daywear and evening wear (Fashion Week Online®, 2018). The Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode was built on October 8th 1973 and so was the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Masculine (Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, 2018). In 1973 Paris fashion week is held at the Carrousel du Louvre. As there are three Chambres Syndicales it led to the creation of the Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode. On June 29th 2017 it became the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) (Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, 2018).
Milan fashion week (MFW) started in 1958 and is actually called “settimana della mode”. MFW is organised by the National Chamber of Italian Fashion (Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana) (Fashion Week Online®, 2018). It was set up in the Grand Hotel, Via Vittorio Emanuele Orlando 3, Rome were the Association’s Head Office was established (Italiana, 2018). The Camera Sindacale della Moda is a non-political and non-profit organisation which has set up the following divisions; Haute Couture for Women, Women’s Sports’ Clothing, Haute Couture for Men, Haute Couture (female and male), Fashion Accessories, Milliners, and Furriers. The first President was Giovanni Battista Giorgini. In the early 60s Camera della Moda was created by The Centre of Haute Couture in Rome (The Centro Romano Alta Moda) which has reflected the same aims and structure (Italiana, 2018). The main function of this organisation was to regulate all the fashion houses events and co-ordinate them.
London fashion week was founded in 1984 and this is were the term “Fashion Week” begun (Fashion Week Online®, 2018). Fashion week in London was originally organised by British Fashion Council (BFC) which is a corporation that does not do it for a profit. The BFC has five elements to help drive fashion week forward, they are; education, digital, business, investments, and reputation (Britishfashioncouncil.co.uk, 2018). In 2010, London fashion week (LFW) was the first to live stream a show and is held at Somerset House (All Art Schools, 2018).
Miami fashion week (MIAFW) is not one of the big four but the history behind it is very interesting as it started in 1989 and then was discontinued in 1998. It has only recently been restored in 2005 and tend to highlight swimwear fashion (All Art Schools, 2018). The first fashion week was dedicated to showcasing Resort Cruise Collections while focusing on reflection to a broader audience through quality garments. MIAFW takes benefits of the strong and multicultural connection between Latin America and the US. MIAFW also encourages the additional ethos of Miami's ever-growing population of artists and designers (Miamifashionweek.com, 2018).
New York fashion week are still grouped together but have independent shows like Alexander Wang or IMG, not just CFDA shows. This makes fashion week a lot more busy and shows have to be shorter (Fashion Week Online®, 2018). London fashion weeks on the other hand is still held by the British Fashion Council, whilst, Milan fashion week shows are produced by the Chamber of Italian Fashion. Milan fashion week has independent shows for there larger named brands like Dolce & Gabbana. Paris fashion week are controlled by the French Fashion Federation, but again the also have independent shows.
Fashion week has had many different geniuses and have come from many genesises. Now all fashion weeks are on a global scale due to technology, especially social media, this means that all shows need about 200,000 gist bags for the VIP guests and press. Not only gift bags have become a huge part of fashion weeks now you get after parties which mean a lot of alcohol. This can be around 240 bottle of Moët Champagne after each show. Is it for the designers? Or is it for Instagram? This is a question that gets asked a lot when many events get popular, but it is true fashion week has become a place were you can find celebrity children on the front rows and reality stars pushed in front of the journalists.
In conclusion, many people and organisations are the genius behind fashion week and have helped it grow to this amazing spectacular that everyone wants to see. The big four fashion capitals are world renowned for there fashion weeks and has made is a place where a ‘somebody’ can attend.
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BFC Logo - http://www.britishfashioncouncil.co.uk/business-support-awards/NEWGEN
Charles Dana Gibson/Library of Congress - https://fashionista.com/2016/09/fashion-week-history
Clipping from the Indian Valley Register of February 1951 - fashionweekonline.com/history-of-fashion-week
Eleanor Lamber CFDA Founder - https://cfda.com/about-cfda/history
Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode logo - https://fhcm.paris/en/the-federation/
Miami Fashion Week Logo - https://miamifashionweek.com/
