Isopod General Care Guide
Will be periodically updating with links and info that I learn or remember. This list is not the end all, be all. The materials listed are an idea of what can be used. Do your own research and compare. Commercially available items are listed for ease of access, not standard recommended use
Key
Must haves
Recommend
Good additions
* = cheaper/alternatives to ★
Substrate materials
[In rough order of highest percentage to lowest]
Dirt from outside/organic, pesticide and fertilizer free topsoil★
Zoomed Reptisoil*
Zilla Jungle mix*
Zoomed Creature soil*
Flake soil
Orchid bark/decaying wood
Worm castings, bat guano, or manure
Leaf litter
Sphagnum moss
Horticulture charcoal, for springtails
Notes - Article 1, article 2, article 3
Isos eat their substrate, so try to avoid empty materials like coco fiber and perlite if possible
Scott's topsoil is widely used in the iso community, and with any topsoil, add aerating materials to reduce compaction
If you are unsure if any of the gardening soil accessible to you is safe, use any reptile, amphibian, or invertebrate soil that is not pure coco fiber
You can use soil from outside but it must be sterilized. Be 100% sure that it is pesticide free
4-6 inches minimum
Sphagnum moss helps with moisture retention in the soil
It's generally cheaper to create your own substrate than to buy premade
Suface
Leaf litter
Tree bark/cork bark
Wood, twigs
Decaying wood
Wet Sphagnum moss
Seed pods, acorn caps
Moss
Lime stone
Coconut halves - hides
Shells - natural, unpainted
Notes - Article 1
You must have a thick layer of leaf litter, preferably at least 1 inch, covering the entire surface since it is their primary food source
Put wet sphagnum moss on one end of the enclosure. Monitor the moss to make sure it remains damp. Digging a small hole in the soil and putting the moss inside will keep it moist for longer if the soil itself is damp - with proper humidity, sphagnum is not 100% necessary, but I highly recommend new keepers use it as a guaranteed hydration spot while learning
Avoid materials from pine and cedar trees, resin from them can be an issue
Safe trees to get materials from such as bark or leaves include maple, beech, birch, oak, and almond. Magnolia and oak are some of the most common commercially available leaf litters
Any materials gathered from outside must be sterilized if you want to avoid potential pests
Any plants you add WILL be eaten, so don't put anything you want to last in with them, it might not be there long lol
Feeding
Leaf litter^
★Protein - dried shrimp, bloodworms, anchovies, egg*
★Calcium - pure cuttle bone, eggshell*, reptile calcium powder (not preferred but will not hurt if it is all you have on hand at the moment)
Veggie scraps
Decaying wood
Moss
Repashy
Reptile flower topper
Cat grass - clippings or sewn directly into substrate
Notes
Calcium must be available at all times, replenish once a month or sooner depending on colony size
Protein heavy species such as dairy cows need protein more frequently
Use fresh or frozen greens and vegetables, never anything might have been seasoned or fried. Plain boiled peas, green beans, etc. is fine
All supplemental food should be removed after 24 hours to prevent mold growth
General Notes
Article
Modify your husbandry to the individual species and replicate parts of their natural habitat if possible *
Sterilize any materials used if they are gathered from outside or if they are not advertised for reptiles etc. You can sterilize materials by boiling them, freezing them for 36 hours min, and/or baking them in the oven at the lowest temperature possible for a few hours
Isopods can be kept in plastic totes or glass tanks. Tanks with mesh lids should have the majority of it sealed or have the lid replaced. Plastic storage totes are the cheapest and most convenient option, you can even use a large tupperware container.
Enclosures should be roughly the size of a shoe box for small colonies, roughly 15x8x5 inches minimum. Upgrade the size to avoid overcrowding. You can prioritize length over depth with species that do not burrow as actively
For ventilation, you can cut a small hole on one side and cover it with either fabric or metal mesh, you can also poke small holes along the sides close to the top. Try to keep the ventilation on one side (the dry side of the enclosure). Add more ventilation gradually if there is high moisture buildup. Keep the vents towards the top to deter escapees
Moisture buildup on the sides of the enclosure is fine as long as it remains on the damp side and does not span the entire enclosure
Small amounts of mold will naturally pop up but will be eaten by both isos and springtails. Remove if excessive
DO NOT pick up gravid isos↑ it can stress them to the point of aborting the babies (mancae)
Avoid disrupting them frequently, even just taking the lid off the enclosure can stress them. Newly purchased or transferred colonies, especially, should be given about two weeks to settle in
Isopods molt in two pieces (shirt and pants). Avoid touching or disrupting and maintain humidity to reduce the risk of failed molts
There are pre-made iso foods available. Foods for hermit crabs and springtails are also a good option
Rule of thumb - If its safe for reptiles, amphibians, or hermit crabs it is most likely safe for isopods but always read the ingredients
Do partial substrate changes to avoid frass buildup
Freeze any substrate or materials from the enclosure that you plan to dispose of to prevent accidental release of isopods or pests into the environment
DO NOT mix species. Over time one will out compete the other, and the stress from repeated attempts at breeding between different species can kill the females
I've gotten some good stuff from Josh's frogs and FeedYourCrabs
