AU Alternative Spring Break: Istanbul 2014

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What? So What? Now What?

Before we left for our trip, we each wrote a letter to ourselves with our expectations and feelings. We did this so that we could more easily recognize our personal changes when we returned. I think I can speak for everyone when I say that the letter activity was nice, but definitely not necessary for me to measure my personal transformation after this experience. In Istanbul, we were able to connect with organizations that face uphill battles against poverty, violence, social stigma, and marginalization of minority groups. We met members of the different communities, played games with their children, cooked a community dinner, and saw the institutional disadvantages they face first hand as fancy billboards hide their homes from the rest of the city. The implementation of urban renewal projects for political and economic gain has stripped these neighborhoods of their homes, their dignity, and their hope. But, the inspiring stories from those who spend their lives providing education and health services and fighting for the rights of these communities have left us hopeful for the future and determined to join in these forces for good.

In addition to studying the Urban Renewal Projects, we learned about and met refugees and asylum seekers traveling through Turkey. After this experience we feel committed to taking several steps for action. We talked about working toward fostering social inclusion and support for refugees that are eventually relocated in the United States. We also discussed researching grants and helping to find funding for the organizations that work so hard with so few resources. Additionally, we recognized remarkable similarities between Istanbul and DC- we can act upon our new awareness and knowledge directly in our own community! Our first step was with this blog, to spread awareness about these issues and encourage others to make an effort to accept all people into our communities and acknowledge the incredible power of a community network.

As we studied gentrification in our pre-departure meetings, we came across the term "root shock." This term refers to the emotional trauma that results from being unexpectedly removed from one's home or community; it can be similar to the trauma incurred after a natural disaster. We have witnesses these effects as we've learned of the Roma who have lived in Sulukule for 1000 years and the Greeks and Kurds who have lived in Tarlabasi for generations as well. Our group saw these harmful repercussions from forced relocation and learned about the complicated web of politics and economics that traps and harms certain minority groups. As a result, we call for policies that include and take care of all the different peoples that make up a city.

I learned more from this trip and this group than i ever could have expected. I appreciate the partnerships with each of our organizations and speakers, and will continue to keep the people Tarlabasi, Sulukule, Fener, and especially my own DC, in my heart...

Stay tuned for more posts about our post trip activism as we continue to learn and advocate.

Live love laugh

Alison

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Wait, where’s Jess?

Often my group wonders where I am which has now turned into a running joke. I promise I’m always with the group.  It might be my quiet demeanor or the ninja qualities that I possess as a yellow belt, who knows. I guess being a little quieter just means that I like to listen a little more.

The morning started off like the others with a traditional Turkish breakfast served at the hostel.  Mitch and Ben went with two of the group leaders a little earlier to a synagogue for a Jewish service. The rest of the group went to the Great Palace Mosaic museum. The museum, though quite small, had a beautiful display of Byzantine mosaics containing many animal themes and motifs. Marcella and I thought one of the most interesting mosaics was actually a figure of a stag killing a snake on a giant mosaic that was originally on the floor of the Great Palace. The mosaic museum had labels explaining common motifs and it explained the stag and the snake. The stag was immune to the poison of the snake and was the only thing that could kill a snake. Then Meghan realized that this related to Harry Potter. Yes, Harry Potter. Harry’s patronus was a stag and Voldemort’s was a snake, and you know the rest.

We have been walking by the Hagia Sofia all week. So the suspense had been building up and we were all really excited to go inside the once church-then mosque-now museum. The tourists come out when the sun’s out, so this sunny Saturday was no exception. But the crowds could not deter our group. Before entering the Hagia Sofia, we saw the hints of Christian and Islamic influences with crosses and Arabic writing. Entering the Hagia Sofia, I learned that it was a church that was then converted into a mosque by covering the Christian images with a plaster that ironically preserved the Christian mosaics when the plaster was removed and the Hagia Sofia was converted into a museum. Although the Hagia Sofia was under some renovation, it was still a magnificent sight. I enjoyed seeing the famous cat that lives at the Hagia Sofia. Meghan and I got to take some pictures at the place where Eastern Roman empresses would sit during the church service. We also got to see where the Eastern Roman emperor’s coronation took place. Overall, the Hagia Sofia was an amazing experience.

After the Hagia Sofia, we realized that the call to prayer was going to start soon and the Blue Mosque was going to be closed for an hour. So in order to kill time, we decided to grab lunch and picnic in the Topkapī palace courtyard. Two of Alison and Erin’s friends decided to join us. It was a serene picnic where we could see the Sea of Marmara and the palace.

 The Blue Mosque was another sight that we have been walking by everyday because it was in Sultanahmet (the same neighborhood of our hostel). Earlier in the week, we went to the New Mosque. It was a fantastic intimate experience with a Koran reading. The trip to the New Mosque was memorable and many people (including myself) had a spiritual experience. So our expectations were high for the Blue Mosque after visiting the New Mosque. Unfortunately, the Blue Mosque did not live up to the majority of our expectations. While the Blue Mosque was absolutely stunning and aesthetically pleasing in terms of architectural design, the swarms of tourists made the experience impersonal. Nevertheless, I am glad that we had the opportunity to visit the Blue Mosque.

 After the Blue Mosque, we tram-ed over to the community kitchen called Mutfak in Tarlabashi—a gentrified neighborhood that we visited earlier in the week. We bought some vegetables to contribute to the making of the meal. Yilmaz, a friend of Allison and Erin that we had met earlier in the week, joined us as well. The community kitchen was a fantastic experience where each of us was able to help with the meal by preparing vegetables, cooking, or cleaning. During our time at Mutfak, we were able to meet with several residents of Tarlabashi. Many of us played with the children outside and colored with them inside too. The soup kitchen was an important experience that allowed the group to utilize the skills of social inclusion and community that we have been learning throughout the week.

On our way back to the hostel, we got to stop and buy some freshly squeezed nar suyu while frantically finishing our last minute shopping. It was a good day. 

At the end of each day of our trip, our entire group reflects on the events of the day together. This reflection was bittersweet because we knew it was our last group reflection in Turkey, but the beginning of our post-trip reflection via activism back in the United States. 

Although tomorrow is our flight back to the States, today you can find me right here with my fantastic alternative break group in Istanbul, Turkey.

 ~Jess

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Friday - Whoops

Though we were greeted with the calls of street dogs and timid sunlight in the morning, today proved to be more formal and slow than many of the others. Indeed, many people experienced a malaise throughout the day, both while lounging in front of the Hagia Sophia and while cramped in the back of turkish taxis. 

Our morning activity for today was at the American Consulate. Located in the far north of the city, we commuted to the consulate for over an hour by way of tram, metro and taxi. We explored the neighborhood for a while before passing through security, climbing hills to catch a glimpse of the Bosphorus painted between Europe and Asia.

Our discussion with the members of the consulate was informal and friendly. We presented our findings from our visits with NGOs and other community groups and asked the consulate workers about their role in the city. The consulate, against what we had previously thought, offered services and support to NGOs and community groups throughout Istanbul, though more-so by way of education than direct fiscal support. 

The members of the consulate offered us advice pertaining to post-trip activism and life, stating that we should reach out to groups in Istanbul and help them find grant opportunities. Internships with government agencies and humanitarian groups were also recommended.

We spent the rest of the day touring around Sultanahmet. Some lounged in front of the Hagia Sophia while others found comfort in the hostel. The day gave way to the night, and we took the tram to a seafood restaurant on the Bosphorus. Upon our return to the hostel, many trip members became rowdy, keeping the other, blog writing members from performing their duties on time. Rest assured, all - we are all well! 

Best,

Nick

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Day 6: "I shall not live in vain"

If I can stop one heart from breaking, I shall not live in vain; If I can ease one life the aching, Or cool one pain, Or help one fainting robin Unto his nest again, I shall not live in vain.       -Emily Dickinson

Today, like most of our days, was one of contrast. (Don't worry, I'll explain the Emily Dickinson reference, keep reading).  We started off as usual - some peynir, domates and çay for breakfast, sitting comfortably among the pillows and benches in the restaurant of our hostel.  Today's morning activity was the Grand Bazaar, one of the most famous landmarks of Istanbul.  A few of us looked up tips for bargaining the night before, so naturally we would be experts at deftly rejecting the tourist prices for scarves and lanterns.

The Grand Bazaar was beautiful, weaving through corridors large and small, crowded and sparse.  We were asked plenty of times if we were related, where we were from, if we wanted to buy something, and most interestingly, "How can I hassle you?" (just fine not being hassled, thanks!)  Wandering from section to section was interesting – we wandered into the very expensive silver jewelry section, and quickly wandered out, going to antiques and scarves (and more scarves, and more scarves).

We bought quite a few different things – evil eyes, Turkish delight, harem pants, and more things I won’t list so that friends will be surprised by their gifts!  We bargained hard, saving only a few lira at best, but we had a good time and worked up an appetite.  Alison and Erin knew of a place that served falafel near the bazaar, and it was a welcome shake-up from the usual tavuk șiș and et döner. 

Lunch was followed by our trip to Sulukule.  Sulukule, like Tarlabași, is one of the poorest neighborhoods in Istanbul, but is located much further outside the city. Tarlabași’s location next to the main pedestrian corridor, Istiklal, makes it an obvious economic opportunity for urban renewal. But Sulukule’s opportunity is not immediately obvious.  Today, we found out Sulukule’s advantage – relative earthquake safety.  Istanbul lies on a fault line, which in the future could mean devastating earthquakes for most of the city.  But the neighborhood of Sulukule is further from the danger zone, so it is seen as a desirable place to live. 

Walking from the metro to the Sulukule Volunteer Association (SVA), it was clear that we stuck out, more so than in other neighborhoods in which we had been.  We stopped briefly to clarify the address, and the men in the street actually tried to direct us to a local church, thinking we were hopelessly lost.  But we found the place easily, and Özlem, the woman with whom we were meeting, met us outside the door.

Özlem turned out to be one of our most engaging and informative speakers yet.  Having been with the SVA since 2009, she was one of the only people in her friend group left working at the organization.  As she told us more about her work, we understood why.  The Roma community in Sulukule has not had an easy time for the past few years.  Özlem began by explaining to us the process by which their homes were demolished.  They were paid very little, and often had little warning that their homes would be destroyed.  A few families were still asleep, early in the morning, when the bulldozers came.  Since then, the people relocated to a neighborhood further away, only to return, packing more and more families into fewer homes.  Özlem told us of the violence the neighborhood experiences, and the challenges they face. 

A neighborhood boy had wandered into the SVA while we were there, and he led us after the meeting to the part of the neighborhood that had been demolished to make new housing developments.  The contrast was stark.  On one side of the street was crumbling stone walls, sheet metal and weeds, and on the other stood large, modern apartments that mostly remained empty.  That was the worst part – people had not moved into these apartments that had displaced so many. 

Leaving Sulukule felt like breathing in deeply after being underwater.  I felt guilty, knowing that I could leave the place that made me feel unsettled so easily.  The people that lived there, the boy that showed us around – they didn’t have the same option. 

We returned to Sultanahmet, where we’re staying.  The sun was setting as we made our way back to the hostel, illuminating from behind the minarets of the Blue Mosque.  Again, I wondered if the boy from the neighborhood would see the same sights that I would.  It’s still strange for me to fathom that these two scenes belong in the same city – the contrast I can’t stop talking about, this is exactly it.

After preparing for our meeting at the U.S. Consulate tomorrow, we headed to dinner and met with Hacer, a friend of Özlem who also worked in Sulukule.  It was wonderful to meet her, and hear her perspective.  She was able to tell us more about the situation for the Roma in other parts of Europe.  Apparently, the Roma in Turkey have it better than in some other areas – which was both discouraging and encouraging.  She also told us that Sulukule served as an example to other neighborhoods.  With all of their efforts to publicize what was happening to the people in Sulukule, other neighborhoods that began to experience urban renewal knew what they were in for, and stood up against it.

In all, it was a day of contrast: the opulent and bountiful Grand Bazaar, and the dearth of opportunity in Sulukule.  As we considered the work that Özlem does for the SVA, we noted her own ability to separate from the trauma, and have a life outside of fighting for Sulukule.  We cannot do everything, and help every refugee or poor person that we may come into contact with.  But if we can help one fainting robin unto its nest again, we shall not live in vain.

-Carly

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Wednesday Haikus

Chamber of secrets beneath the Ottoman throne fish whisper, hüzün Wind whips eager scarves the mansions fade, bridges rise the waters embrace Sun warms daughter's cheeks in line for treatment, they left but have not arrived

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Hüzün with a side of sunshine

It has been a real whirlwind of a day. We were all very excited over breakfast because it looked like we were finally going to have our first sunny day of the trip. Energized at the prospect at not returning home at night with soaked, cold feet, we set out for another busy day.

We spent the morning at another organization that helps refugees in Turkey. Unlike the ICMC which serves essentially as a processing center, today's organization provides more direct services like health counseling and health education classes, referrals for medical services, and a soup kitchen. We learned that the situation of refugees in Turkey is going to change starting April 1st, when Turkey will start to lots of responsibility from the UNHCR in dealing with refugees and asylum cases.

After taking with staff at the organization, we got a chance to talk with some of the refugees who had come in for the soup kitchen. It was a very intense experience for a lot of us. For one, there were serious language barriers that made talking with a number of the refugees pretty difficult. Also, many of the refugees had come to Turkey fairly recently and were in much more difficult situations than the Iraqis we had met at ICMC.

After that we briefly browsed some nearby shops for music and different souvenirs before grabbing a quick lunch at one of the many Turkish fast food restaurants specializing in grilled meats and sandwiches. Then we took a nice walk down to the pier before getting on a two hour boat tour up the Bosphorus.

I might not be the biggest fan of boats, but like the rest of the group I have to admit that the views of Istanbul from the boat were spectacular. It was very windy and really a bit cold on the open deck, but for the first time this trip we could really see clearly and appreciate how overwhelming and incredible Istanbul is. Highlights of the boat tour were the beautiful houses in the northern districts of Istanbul, seeing dolphins swimming near the boat, and getting silly photos with a very sleepy Easten. 

After the boat tour we went to the Yeni Cami (New Mosque), a 350 year old Ottoman mosque, where we appreciated the stunning tile-work and the imam chanting verses from the Quran beautifully. Then we walked to the Basilica Cistern, an ancient Byzantine underground water reservoir, with row upon row of columns and two mysterious Medusa heads.

All in all, it was a very productive day if not the happiest one. Our experience was the refugees made a lot of us feel glum and helpless, but it was important for us to start get a more complete understanding of the situation refugees face in Turkey. And it was also very good to really get to see the city in a way we hadn't before. 

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Day Four: ICMC and Asia

We had a much-needed break from the rain today! It was still cloudy and a little drizzly, but we didn’t arrive back at the hostel soaking wet. 

In the morning, we spent about three hours at the International Catholic Migrant Commission (ICMC) learning about the process of resettling refugees in the United States. Turkey is a stepping stone for refugees escaping persecution within their own countries to settle in the US. 

We mainly spoke with Peter Vogelaar, who has worked at ICMC Turkey for almost two years and previously worked a resource center for refugees in New York. He was incredibly knowledgable and answered all of our questions. 

Not only does the ICMC process and interview each individual refugee case, they also conduct cultural orientations for those approved to move to the US. They focus on the reality that refugees will face, from small details like the weather to larger issues like acceptance. Orientation leaders stress that “Opportunity + Hardwork = Success,” a phrase painted on each classroom’s walls.  

We were lucky enough to have the opportunity to sit in on one of these cultural orientations. The mostly Iraqi refugees had many questions for us. Starr was very excited to share advice to a family resettling in Minnesota, and Ben shocked the crowd when he started speaking in Arabic. One man asked about the treatment of Arabs after 9-11. Mitch and Olivia responded that America is very diverse and everyone generally gets along (except a lot more eloquently than what I typed). 

Another man asked a really good question: “Why are you here?” We answered that it’s crucial for both groups to learn from each other and achieve greater understanding.

I could go on about ICMC for a while, and I’m sure everyone else could too, so ask us questions when we are back! 

After that we grabbed a delicious lunch. The waiter was very kind and translated the entire Turkish menu into English. Next on the itinerary was to travel to Asia for tea. We hopped on a domuz, a small public bus, and headed toward the Bosphorus. We jumped on the public ferry and spent most of the ride on the deck taking photos. 

The Asian side of Istanbul was very similar to the European side (but shh, it was still awesome to be in a different continent). We explored the streets and browsed through a book store and tea shop. We took a nice break in a cafe. Olivia and Jess tried the neon green kiwi tea, and we played “Two truths and a lie.”

Overall, it was a very successful day. My highlight was sitting in on the cultural orientation and putting a face to the growing number of refugees. They are no longer just a statistic. It’s comforting and empowering to know that organizations like ICMC exist to help refugees find better lives. 

Stay tuned for more!

- Lindsay 

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Hüzün: A Collaborative Bluezz Poem

It's rainin' in Istanbü It's rainin' in Istanbü It's pourin' and our work isn't thru Buildin's old

Rain is cold It's rainin' in Istanbü My home might be moved

My mama has no clue Birth control's taboo Oh Istanbü Oh Istanbü It's rainin' in Istanbü

It's rainin' in Istanbü It's pourin' and our work isn't thru Uphill climbin' is on my mind

My group I just could not find It's rainin' in Istanbü Spice Bazü

Galata Tower view Is it still rainin' in Istanbü? Just ask my shoe It's still pourin' in Istanbü

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A few photos to accompany the previous text post. 

A diorama of the Tarlabasi Community Center's logo.

An image of the housing ads that are disguising the conditions of the Tarlabasi neighborhood.

A few shots of the view from Galata Tower.

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Day 3- The rain continues

Our second full day in Istanbul. This morning, the group traveled to the neighborhood of Fener Balat to meet with an organization called Mavi Kalem. This organization works with women and children in the area who are often migrants and do not have opportunities to work, be social, or receive a quality education. Mavi Kalem provides informational workshops about healthcare for women, as well as educational and fun activities for children during the summer as well as year round. 

Mavi Kalem is a small organization with only a handful of full time staff that relies on volunteers from Istanbul as well as international volunteers to provide these workshops. The women who gave a presentation today were from Germany, Lithuania, and a few other parts of Eastern Europe. It was interesting to meet others who are also interested in the social issues of Istanbul who are just as informed and passionate about helping people as we are. 

We then trudged through the rain to Taksim Square to grab lunch, and then were off to Tarlabasi to meet with Tarlabasi Toplum Merkezi (Tarlabasi Community Center). Until last November, this organization was huge in providing educational, social, and psychological services to the inhabitants who are suffering in poor conditions in Tarlabasi.

Unfortunately, the organization is struggling now to meet the needs of the neighborhood due to lack of funding. In addition, the neighborhood is currently covered in metal barriers and housing advertisements as it is due to be torn down and renovated in an urban renewal project. While Tarlabasi is very run down and in need of repairs, this urban renewal project will push many of its inhabitants away from their jobs to places they cannot afford to live. The woman who gave the presentation about TTM expressed frustration at the economic and corporate forces that are negatively affecting the lives of the people in the neighborhood and how there are really no immediate solutions that can help the people affected by this gentrification. TTM is struggling to provide their services in the short-term, and literally cannot afford to think about the long term negative affects of this urban renewal.

After meeting with organizations and seeing firsthand the people who are working to fight the problems we have been learning about for months, we braved the rain even further and climbed Galata Tower. Galata Tower is one of the oldest towers in the world, originally built in 528 AD and rebuilt several times since then. You can see the entire city from the top, and while we were soaked to the bone and freezing, and the distant parts of the city were covered in rain and fog, it was still a sight to be held. 

We ate dinner at the hostel tonight, mostly due to our shoes not being wearable after today's wet adventures. As we learn more and more about the issues Istanbul is facing, and meet with more people who have different perspectives and work with different affected groups, we realize how complex the issues really are. 

That being said, I am so excited to learn more. 

Shout out to Mitch's mom, happy birthday!

Also we have yet to lose a group member, so if your friend or child has yet to contact you, they are alive and well in Istanbul. Stay tuned to see if that changes. 

<3 <3 Meghan

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The Internet went down last night, so here are a few photos in Tarlabasi from yesterday! 

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The First of Several

Merhaba!

Through the jet lag and tireless night, we were all still so anxious to see the city.

Today started with a wonderful breakfast provided by our hostel, and then we were on our way to an East African Worship Service. Many immigrants in Turkey come from East Africa, so we really wanted to see how their culture thrived. So, we took the tram (totally awesome -- the "smart trip" cards are so much prettier than DC's!!) and then we walked up some steep hills to the beginning of Istiklal, which is one if the main streets in Istanbul. Surprisingly to me, the church was stowed away at the top of a very tall building. We ventured up to the service, and it was magnificent. We were able to witness amazing passion and devotion while being welcomed into their culture with volunteer translators (by the way, the church did not know we were coming) and wonderful treats at the end. Of course, seeing a whole new culture is an odd feeling to start, but by the end of the service we danced and clapped along with everyone else, and even saw a baptism! They taught us about acceptance and tolerance, which was really interesting considering that their culture is a minority in the city and the country as a whole, so they are not exactly treated very well.

After the service, we walked down Istiklal to go to the Tarlabashi farmer's market, which is an overwhelming bounty of colors and various clothing items, appliances, and really anything you could imagine. The most interesting thing that stood out to our group was the sharp juxtaposition between Istiklal and the neighborhood just across the street (you will see in the pictures). After walking through the entrance of the neighborhood, we found ourselves in the hustle and bustle of the farmer's market. This experience was definitely more than words. All different kinds of people were shopping for both extras and weekly staples. One thing that especially startled me, was while walking through this crowded market, there was a man with shoes on his hands, dragging himself through the street. He only had one leg and had a ripped jeans on. It surprised me, not because I am not used to homelessness, as I see it daily in DC, however I was surprised that this man did not have a wheelchair. This made many of us question the state of health care in the country, as well as the pathway to citizenship for many of the people living in Tarlabashi.

After the Farmers market, the group went back to Istiklal and ventured over the Taksim to meet a friend from the university that Erin and Alison went to while they were studying abroad. He brought us to Gezi Park and talked to us about the protests that occurred in May and through the summer, and the protests that are currently happening due to the scandals of the Prime Minister. Hearing him speak of his first hand experiences with the police brutality and sleeping in Gezi Park for two weeks was a real eye-opening experience. We also had some really tasty Turkish tea while talking with him!

Dinner and dessert was also glorious. For dessert (of course, before dinner) we all got a mix of wonderful foods and coffees. Dinner was really wonderful and the people are so pleasant and wonderful!

Also, the animals here in Istanbul are so amazing. We have named the three cats that live in the hostel, and of course I name all of the cats and dogs on the street, too.

All in all, this trip is off to a glorious beginning, and I cannot wait to see what else is in store!

With love and Turkish delight,

Olivia

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A few photos from Day #1 by Lindsay. We love the hostel's kittens!

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At Long Last

Today, our first day, was certainly a journey- after traversing over 5200 miles, across both ocean and land, we have officially arrived on Turkish soil. We disembarked our plane, boarded our bus and crossed the rain strewn roads to the Old City at Sultanahmet. With a little bit of rest and having fully moved in, we set off to explore the community and the local food. As this long and productive day nears its end, the sentiments within the group are strong- excitement hardly does justice to the feeling. But one thing is certain- we are ready, and at long last, our great adventure has begun. 

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An uncertain week

This past week has been a bit stressful for Alison and me: with the news about the recent wave of protests in Istanbul and elsewhere in Turkey, our trip was put on tentative status for a few days. Considering the six months' worth of work we've put into planning this trip and how excited we are to learn about issues of development and gentrification in Istanbul with our participants, the thought that our trip might get cancelled was horrifying. As of yesterday, however, our trip was a go on the condition that we changed our hostel location from Beyoğlu to Sultanahmet (the touristy, old city part of town), which we've done. Here's a brief run-down on the current political situation, for those of you who may not be familiar with it.

Istanbul and other cities in Turkey have been experiencing protests on and off since last May, when wide-spread, huge protests broke out in Istanbul over the planned development of Gezi Park, one of the last few green spaces left in central Istanbul. The protests increased with the level of police brutality (police used tear gas and water canons to clear protesters from the park), and as the protests grew and spread across the country, many people cited growing government authoritarianism as another reason behind the protests. This article from the BBC was written early in the summer; this article challenges the idea that the Gezi movement completely superseded its original focus on the park.

A few months ago, a corruption scandal broke out in Turkey that reached into the highest levels of government, which led to new protests, although on a much smaller scale. In the last few weeks, recorded phone conversations have surfaced that are allegedly between Prime Minister Erdoğan and his son, with Erdoğan telling his son to hide large sums of money. Erdoğan has denied the allegation that the conversation is about money laundering (interestingly, he has not denied the allegation that the recording is him), but protests have broken out, once again calling on him to resign. Two relevant news articles are here and here. The protests sparked by this allegation are the ones that have affected our trip's status; additionally, local elections will be held at the end of March, which adds further tension to the general sentiment in Turkey.

Alison and I were living in Istanbul over the summer, and were witnesses to the Gezi protests, which drew thousands of people at times. Our contacts on the ground have reassured us that the current situation is nothing like what we saw last summer. Protests are generally small (maybe 200 people at the most), and generally in the evening or on weekends. We've modified our itinerary to reflect this information, and there are currently no warnings out telling people not to travel to Istanbul or Turkey. However, if you're a parent reading this and still slightly worried about this situation, please know we've done everything in our power to address potential security problems while we're on the ground! With the move to a hostel in Sultanahmet, the higher-ups in the university (the ones responsible for deciding if our trip is allowed to go or not) have approved our trip, and we're ready to leave Friday evening after one last pre-trip training session on Wednesday (this last week's topic is survival Turkish!).