Photography Research

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DAVID SIMS

David Sims' work for magazines such as Vogue and i-D, differs greatly to the first works I saw for Arena magazine which drew me to him. Almost like he has two styles, a clean and clinical style more suited to glossy magazines where the clothes are of main importance and a more abstract multi-media approach. What I admire is that Sims has embraced the digital aesthetic using pixelations and high colour contrasts. The models are superimposed onto backgrounds to create a surreal fantasy. His high energy menswear photography has great atmosphere and explosions of noise. The artwork that accompanies and interacts with his fashion imagery enables Sims to creatively tell a story that his more commercial work does not.  The mix of manipulated and more traditional black and white photography provides exciting and stimulating diversity.

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JASON EVANS

Jason Evans doesn't have a rule book. His photos are great, they're colourful, they have energy and movement and mostly they're just good fun.He works closely with stylist Simon Foxton to collaborate on these group shoots he is known for. He does a very good job at working with the dynamics of more that one person and how they work around each other.Not taking themselves too seriously they produce strange and fun scenarios and characters. He doesn't limit himself on what he chooses to photograph, his regularly updated blog is vibrant and varied.

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MICHELLE SANK

Michelle Sank's photographic work deals with important issues, these may include religion, body image or growing up. Her working style is simple, full body photographs of people in their natural environments wearing their own clothes in a position of their choice. It is exactly as it is and Sank skillfully presents to us. There are little distractions the way of objects or scenery. There is nothing between the subject and the lens apart from the occasional attempt to look cool or sexy, but that is how someone chooses to present themselves and that is what Sank is all about.

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 GUY BOURDIN

French fashion photographer producing most distinctive work through the 1960's and 1970's. Highly sexualised high glamour. His use of models, makeup and clothing defines the airbrushed aesthetic of the 1970's and disco fashion. Provocative scenes of women lounging in sexy positions inspired by film noir, crime drama and Surrealist art. He provokes fantasy in his extreme fashion images which are both mythical and perverse. A courageous artist making experimental work, he believed anything was possible.

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EIKI MORI

Eiki Mori works around the themes of homosexuality in young Japanese males. His photos are usually taken in a domestic environment. They are fresh and gently lit without distraction. In 'Tokyo Boy Alone' (2006-2011) I get a sense of boredom, relaxation and comfort on hot summer days. It tells stories of lone figures and their urban environment which often tends to be cramped and sterile looking. Mori has a gay following because of his subject matter. This is a simplistic photography style which is typical of Japanese photographers.

[jamesrushfirthphotography]

WILL McBRIDE

These images for Another magazine are a step away from McBride's previous work, where the focus is primarily young boys. He captures the sensitivity of his subject, the softness as well as the energy by being engaged with the model. I find that these images push boundaries of fashion photography as they are simple style wise but captivating and dynamic. I find the image of the pure looking boy meditating in the road potent as it shows both speed and concentration, a bizarre focus, whilst the image of the boys wrestling has a strong masculine energy and playfulness. 

[jamesrushfirthphotography]

WILLY VANDAPERRE

I like the straight up photography style that Vandaperre often uses. Choice of setting is important, I prefer the images which are taken outdoors, especially the images taken in the woods. His images are of youth, not energetic as such but the boredom and idleness of being young.  Often working with boys and girls together, there is a harmonized relationship between the models and clothing.  Styling is kept casual and sporty, to not over complicate the image.

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JAMIE HAWKESWORTH

Classes art photography and fashion photography as the same thing. He is a very English photographer in the sense that he plays on the gritty-ness of Britain and sees beauty in the detail of the real world. His motivation comes from daily life and real people, which may appear mundane but Hawkesworth fills his images with a warm light which feels passionate. His street photography  looks very considered and composed within the frame. An expert at capturing the sensitivity of his subject with special attention to colour.

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MARK BORTHWICK

Contributor to the Post-Grunge aesthetic of early Purple magazines. Chloe Sevigny plays his muse in popular photographs for the magazine. She has the right characteristics for this style of fashion, imperfect beauty that rejects commercialism. His photography is simplistic and stripped back or the opposite, clothes piled around the model or even just on the ground. Working mostly out of the studio, direct sunlight brightens his images in warm and dreamy way.

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JAMES WOJCIK

Similar to the style of Toiletpaper magazine. His still life images are all about the implications of objects and clothing items. Some images are unsettling feeling because of what the image implies, for example the lipstick sandwich, whilst others are given sexual subtexts. They have a surreal sense of humor, re-appropriating objects like lipsticks or underwear, applying feminine or masculine attributes by being completely tongue-in-cheek. These are still glamorous images with a high sheen and strong blocks of colour. 

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NIGEL SHAFRAN

Nigel Shafran is a very unusual fashion photographer. His best known work is called Teenage Precinct Shoppers, a series of portraits taken in 1990. I find this a very good representation of youth fashion of the time and appears very dated now. There is humor in these photos, only because of the very questionable style choices i.e, shell suits and a lot of hair mousse. There is life in these images as these are very normal teenagers and you can see  in their expressions that being photographed in this way is not normal for them. Some teens react by smirking whilst others look like their having their mug shot taken.

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TERRY RICHARDSON 

Terry Richardson is well known for his exposing, up close and personal photography style, against white backgrounds. These images for Purple magazine are less saturated that those, his early black and white images are not as in your face, sexuality is not the focus as much as personality. He is known for making people open up in front of the lens. You can see there is a friendly relationship between him and the subject. These images taken out of the studio are more snapshots of his everyday life, taken at home or in the park. I think Terry Richardson brings out joy and humor in people and it can be seen in his images which are undeniably lively.

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RANKIN

This set of images I have chosen by Rankin are very different to the usual glossy beauty fashion photography he is know for. Instead of a high definition image, these are taken in the style of CCTV, which follows two rebellious young boys causing trouble. I like the fuzzy, low tech quality of the images as they make a good alternative to other fashion imagery. I also like the difference between the high angle shots of the boys unknowingly being watched as well as them right to the lens as if they are trying to disable a surveillance camera. These remind me of police images released if they were looking for wanted criminals which is a reflection of modern times and the little privacy we have.  

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ANUSCHKA BLOMMERS AND NIELS SCHUMM

This duo's photography is intelligent and simple. Their well known series for Self Service magazine featured portraits of fresh faced young girls with 1970's inspired crimped and curled hairstyles. Styling and background is kept simple in muted shades of beige, blue and grey. Makeup and hair styling play an important role. Choice of model is important, not always typical commercial models but more diverse, using all body types and elderly people .The positioning is less about showing fashion but how a person fits into their surroundings and how the light falls.

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DAVIDE SORRENTI

Davide Sorrenti's photos are a look into the youth culture that surrounded him in the 1990's. They have an American grunge aesthetic and followed the trend of 'heroin chic', which seems to be very real in these pictures. There is nothing high fashion about his images, his seated friends mostly wear casual clothing and streetwear. Beauty can be found in the darkness of the image. His photos tell of fading youth, lost in time. Gloomy and rebellious style that doesn't fit the norms of fashion photography. Reminds me of Stussy images from the 90's, Nan Goldin and Larry Clark who has influenced him.